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Class L _ 

Book_5V_ 

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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT* 




































LINOTYPES 

AND 

INTERTYPES 



THIS BOOK IS USED IN AND SOLD 
EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH 

Milo Bennett’s Intertype School 

TOLEDO, OHIO, U. S. A. 

INTERTYPE-LINOTYPE 

INSTRUCTION 


I N THE planning of this book the author consulted 
leading typesetting machine engineers of the country, 
including Mr. W. S. Scudder, who was associated 
with Ottmar Mergenthaler; later inventor of the Mono- 
line, and who is now supervising engineer of the Inter¬ 
type Corporation. 


n 


LINOTYPES 

AND 

INTERTYPES 

THEIR MAINTENANCE 
AND MECHANISM 
EXPLAINED 


By 

Irving MacD. Sinclair 


i g 2 4 

CLEVELAND, OHIO 







First Edition 
Copyright 1922 
By Irving MacD. Sinclair 


Second Edition 
Copyright 1924 
By Irving MacD. Sinclair 


Second Edition, 1924 

Printed in the United States of America by 
The H. J. Chittenden Co. 

Toledo, Ohio 

Ap R -9^324 

©C1A778792 


Preface 


JITE in keeping with the usual practice, a few 



introductory remarks will not be out of place. 


This book, as its title indicates, is designed for 


the use of those having the care of line-casting ma¬ 
chines in charge, with the thought in mind that the 
great majority of line-casting machinists are not finished 
machinists or electricians in the commonly accepted 
sense, because they have not had, previous to taking up 
this line of work, experience in either one of these trades. 
It is a fallacy that one must have preliminary educa¬ 
tion in a machine shop to take care of these complicated 
machines in a successful manner, although such experi¬ 
ence will prove of inestimable value when learning how 
to maintain them. 

It is not expected that every printer will have com¬ 
plete knowledge and skill to keep machines in good 
running order. A book supplies the knowledge (no book 
can do more), and the skill must come with experience. 

The plain line drawings in this edition in conjunction 
with the text matter constitute a means to best transfer 
images to the reader’s mind with a minimum of con¬ 
fusion. 

The present edition contains information not found 
in any of the very few books published to date on the 
subject. 

There are so many and varied details which are essen¬ 
tial in the maintenance of a battery of line-casting 
machines that a reference work is a necessity—a sort of 
store house which can be visited when the occasion 
arises. 

This book is presented in the above-written spirit. 


•» 











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Table of Contents 

Chapter ' Page 

I Linotype Keyboard and Escapement 

Mechanism .. 1 

II Intertype Keyboard and Escapement 

Mechanism .. 11 

III Care of the Keyboard. 16 

IV Keyboard Troubles.-.... 23 

V Cleaning Magazines and Care of Matrices 26 

VI Spaceband Boxes. 34 

VII Assemblers and Assembling Elevators. 51 

VIII Line Delivery Carriage. 61 

IX First Elevators. 64 

X Vise Automatic. 80 

XI Molds and Wipers. 84 

XII Gas Metal Pots. 90 

XIII Electric Metal Pots. 114 

XIV Ejector Slide and Blade. 131 

XV Trimming Knives and Knife Blocks. 138 

XVI Knife Wipers . 164 

XVII Transfers . 167 

XVIII Distributor Shifter . 182 

XIX Distributors . 184 

XX Linotype Two-pitch Distributor. 194 

XXI Intertype Two-pitch Distributor. 205 

XXII Friction Driving Clutch. 208 

XXIII Main Movements of Machine. 212 

XXIV Functions and Removal of Main Cams.... 215 

XXV Adjustments . 220 

XXVI Daily Work Schedule. 241 

XXVII “Kinks” . 243 

XXVIII Supplies, Tables and Tools. 247 

XXIX Line-casting Machines—Past and Present 255 

Detailed Index. 269 


yii 



































I. 


LINOTYPE KEYBOARD AND 
ESCAPEMENT MECHANISM 

A DESCRIPTION of the Model 8 keyboard and 
escapement mechanism covers various models 
““ made by the Mergenthaler Linotype Company 
—that is, those machines having single distributors. The 
plural distributor escapements will be described in follow¬ 
ing pages. The principle of the escapements used on 
them is similar to the Model 8 and their function is the 
same. 

The keyboard action is very light to the touch, gravity 
entering into the operation of the various parts when a 
matrix is released from the magazine for delivery into 
the assembler—the cam drops of its own weight on the 
revolving rubber roll, and the matrix falls of its own 
weight when the escapement pawls alternate their up- 
and-down strokes. 

It will be readily seen how essential it is to maintain 
keyboards in that state of cleanliness where these many 
light parts will not be impeded in their action by oil, 
which is the principal enemy of free dropping cam yokes 
and matrices. Oils of certain kinds are essential to a 
keyboard, but should be confined to the bearings they 
are intended to lubricate and not permitted to creep be¬ 
yond these narrow limits. 

A keyboard is intended to operate so as to eliminate 
the drudgery element from human fingers and it can 
only fulfill this purpose when the machinist has done 
his share towards maintaining the smooth working of 
each of the many parts in a keyboard. 

A regular routine system should be set up to take 
care of these things by the one responsible for the 
mechanical maintenance and operating condition of the 
machines. This and other things which enter into the 
care of these complicated machines will be taken up 
in the order of their cycle of operation. 


[ 1 ] 


2 


Linotypes and 


s 


C 



Fig. 1. 




The best way to become familiar with the actions of 
the various parts involved when a keybutton is struck 
to release a matrix is to study the drawing opposite 
and memorize the following listed sequence: 




















3 


Their 


)nance and Mechanism 


The keybutton, a, Fig. 1, is depressed and the lever, b, 
pivoted at I raises the keybar, c, which banks against 
the bar, d. The trigger, e, pivoted at 2, describes a small 
arc and lets the cam fall on the rubber roll, f, which ro¬ 
tates the cam. The cam is pivoted at 3 and as it revolves, 
due to the irregular shape, raises the free end of the yoke 
at g, causing the keyrod, h, to make an upward stroke. 
The escapement lever, i, pivoted at 4, rises and throws 
the escapement plunger, j, against the shoulder of the 
verge, k, pivoted at 5. The two pawls, 11, rise and fall 
alternately, letting the first matrix out of the magazine, 
and the second one slides into position ready for delivery 
the next time the keybutton is depressed. The keyrod 
returns to normal position of its own weight as do the 
escapement lever and the escapement plunger. The 
verge, however, is returned to position by the spring, 
m. The shoulders on the escapement pawls, l l, deter¬ 
mine the length of the stroke of the pawls. 

Linotype keyboard cam yokes have been made of brass 
and steel, machined and milled; later a pressed steel 
yoke. The machined steel yoke is less likely to become 
distorted through careless handling. When removed 
from the keyboard avoid dropping them. 

The linotype keyboard mechanism has what might be 
called an overthrow spring in order to give the keyrod 
action a yielding stress on the verge when the keyrod is 
at its highest point. It would be an impossibility to 
make machines which would have a definite length of 
stroke in this kind of device, owing to the number of 
parts involved. 

When the keyboard cam is at its highest stroke the 
strain of the action, that is, the weight of the keyrod 
and auxiliary lever is against the free end of the cam 
yoke. The hinge end of the yoke has a small spring and 
plunger mounted above it, shown at n, Fig. 1, so that the 
cam will make a yielding or cushion stroke. If this 
spring is not strong enough to overcome the weight of 
the keyrod and various other parts up to and including 
the verge and stress of verge spring, the front pawl 
cannot sink far enough to release a matrix. The spring 
can easily be stretched enough to cause it to do its work. 
If these springs are too strong the rubber rolls will have 
a tendency to creep or crawl on the shaft, or the cams 
will cut deep grooves in the rolls. 



4 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


To determine whether the keyboard cam yoke spring 
has enough tension, run out the offending channel of 
matrices, throw off the keyboard belt, raise the large 
assembler cover, hold a light in front of the empty 
magazine channel, depress the button and slowly turn 
the rubber roll shaft by hand until the keyrod is at its 
highest stroke. Note if the verge pawl (front) comes 
even with the bottom of the magazine channel. 

Next determine if the offending character is giving 
the same trouble on the other magazines. If so, it will 
indicate that the parts below the escapement verge 
block are causing the front escapement pawl not to clear 
the bottom of the magazine channel so a matrix can 
slide without interference. For instance, if the lower 
case “m” matrix does not slide freely out of the maga¬ 
zine look for the trouble in the parts from the operating 
lever, i, down to the cam yoke. Run magazines above 
operating position of the lower magazine. Strike the 
“c,” “m” and “f” keys, turn rubber roll shaft by hand 
until the three escapement levers are at full upstroke. 
The lower case “m” lever should be the same height as 
th “c” and “f” levers. 

It is assumed that the rubber roll has no groove cut 
in it by the keyboard cam which would prevent it rais¬ 
ing the keyrod high enough; also that the magazine 
channels are not dirty or oily, or matrices having bent 
lugs. If the escapement lever is bent it can be noted 
after the levers fall back to normal position, when the 
upper end will be lower or out of line with those ad¬ 
jacent. 

The escapement lever being of normal shape, then 
look at the cam yoke to see if it is bent at either end. 
(This applies to the pressed steel yokes). Wear show¬ 
ing on the end engaging the keyrod can cause a lack 
of “punch” or leverage. Replace the cam if it appears 
in proper condition and lower the magazine containing 
the offending lower case “m” channel to operating posi¬ 
tion. Strike the “m” keybutton, turn rubber roll shaft 
slowly by hand, and if the hinged end of the cam yoke 
under the plunger rises and falls with the revolving cam 
the plunger spring in the spring bar will need more ten¬ 
sion, which can be secured either by screwing down on 
the plunger nut or stretching the plunger spring a little. 

If irregular response of a matrix channel is confined 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


5 


to any one magazine, the trouble may be located in the 
escapement verge spring, which might be so strong as 
to resist the action of the leverage exerted by the key¬ 
board cam. This spring should be just strong enough 
to solidly operate die verge. Note also if the verge 
plunger works freely in its groove—dirt or burrs can 
be contributing causes of stiff action. See that it is 
not bent in such a manner as to interfere with free 
motion. The plunger, however, must fully strike the 
verge, and some of them are bent by the manufacturer 
to accomplish this. An occasional verge plunger will 
have a deep groove worn in its lower end by the operat¬ 
ing lever. Replacement in this case will be necessary. 

TO REMOVE AND REPLACE LINOTYPE 
RUBBER ROLLS 

Linotype keyboard rubber roll shafts have a device 
on each end designed to prevent the creeping of rubber 



rolls on their shafts and resist a twisting effect on the 
rolls due to the keyboard and escapement action. In 
the sketch, Fig. 1 -a, the shaft is represented by a a. To 
remove the rubber roll, e, tap off the oil collar, b, with a 
piece of brass rule or slug, alternately on each side if 
it fits snug; drive out taper pin, c. when the collar d can 
be slipped off the shaft. The rubber roll can be slipped 
on a neatly cleaned shaft by moistening the inside of the 























6 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


roll with naphtha which will assist it to slip over and 
help cement it to the shaft. 

MODELS 9 AND 24 KEYBOARD AND ESCAPE¬ 
MENT MECHANISMS 

The keyboard escapement mechanisms on linotype 
models 9 and 24 are the same and their actions in the 
delivery of matrices are identical. 

A detailed analysis of the different motions necessary 
to cause a matrix to drop from the magazine is as fol¬ 
lows : 

The keybutton, a, Fig. 2, is depressed and the key- 
lever, b, pivoted at 1, raises the keybar, c, which banks 
against the bar, d. The trigger, e, pivoted at 2, de¬ 
scribes a small arc and lets the cam, g, fall on the rub¬ 
ber roll, f, which rotates the cam. The cam is pivoted 
at 3 and as it revolves, due to the irregular shape, raises 
the free end of the yoke at v, causing the keyrod, h, to 
make an upward stroke. The escapement rod operating 
lever, i, pivoted at 4, rises and moves the escapement rod, 
s, upwards against the escapement verge, j, pivoted at 5. 
The two points of the escapement verge rise and fall 
alternately, letting the first matrix bank against the 
front point, while the second matrix slides down. At this 
point after the escapement is returned to normal position 
by the spring, k, and the escapement rod, s, has retreated, 
the first matrix is released and the second one slides a 
little farther forward until stopped by the rear point of 
the escapement verge, ready for delivery the next time a 
keybutton is touched. The keyrod, escapement lever and 
escapement rod return to normal position by gravity. 

The difference between the escapement verge action 
of the models 8 and 14 and the models 9 and 24 is that 
the first matrix in the models 8 and 14 hangs on the 
front point of the verge and drops instantaneously upon 
the verge rocking, while in the models 9 and 24 escape¬ 
ments the matrix first slides down the channel when the 
escapement verge rocks, and banks against the front 
point of the escapement, then drops into the assembler 
entrance as the verge resumes its normal position again. 
The difference in the timing of the matrix release is not 
‘ appreciable to the operator. 

In the models 9 and 24 machines the magazines have a 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


7 



Fig. 2. 



























































8 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


fixed position and each magazine can be placed in operat¬ 
ing condition by the movement of a lever at the right- 
hand side of the keyboard. This lever performs a double 
function—it raises and lowers the assembler entrance 
guide for each magazine and also moves the escapement 
rods, s, in and out to position under the escapement 
verges, /. 

In Fig. 2 the escapement rod, s, is shown in position 
ready to draw matrices from the third magazine, 3m, the 
notch, 8, fitting in the end of the escapement rod slide 
lever, i. 

The notch, 6, when in engagement with the end of the 
lever, i, will be ready to operate the escapement, /, in the 
top magazine, 1-m. Notch 7 in engagement with the 
lever, i, operates the escapement, j, in 2m, or second 
magazine. Notch 8 in engagement with lever, i, operates 
escapement for 3m, or third magazine. Notch 9 oper¬ 
ates escapement verge for the lower magazine, 4m. 

Like the models 8 and 14 mechanism the extreme up¬ 
stroke of the keyrod is made with a yielding or spring 
pressure. This is obtained by means of a spring plunger 
mounted above the fulcrum end of the keyboard cam 
yoke, shown at n. Looking over to the right-hand side 
of the drawing the latch, m, can be turned and lowered 
when the spring bar will fall forward so that any cam 
can be withdrawn for cleaning or lubrication. 

If any of the rear points of the escapement verges, j, 
do not depress enough to permit a matrix to slide freely 
over them when the keyrod is at its highest stroke and 
the rubber roll has not been cut by the cam, g, probably 
the coil spring which surrounds the plunger, 1, is weak, 
and allows the fulcrum end of the yoke at 3 to rise too 
much. It is then in order to stiffen the spring slightly. 
Turning out the small nut or bushing makes the spring 
accessible. 

Sometimes, too, the cam yoke, g, will become mis¬ 
shapen through carelessness which will not permit the 
cam to exert enough leverage for the rear point of the 
escapement verge, j, to clear the bottom of the magazine 
channels. 

The escapement rods, s, should be inspected occasion¬ 
ally to see that none work stiff in their guides, taken out 
and polished on a graphite board. Also apply some coal 
oil to the escapement rod slideways at this time to pre- 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


9 


vent any gummy accumulation which might make chang¬ 
ing from one magazine to another hard. 

The spaceband delivery on models 9 and 24 is re¬ 
tarded, and to obtain this effect two keyboard cams are 
employed. The front cam is used to operate the regular 
or spaceband cam in the rear cam yoke frame which 
does the actual work of releasing a spaceband from the 
box. 

The front cam does not have anything to do with the 
actual tripping of the spaceband keyrod, other than to 
raise the keybar which sets in motion the spaceband cam 
in the rear cam yoke frame. 

Referring to the drawing it will be seen that the front 
spaceband cam is of peculiar design. It is shaped to ir¬ 
regular radius so that the end of the cam yoke will 
rise high enough to come in contact with th« 
extension of the keybar which has a pin in it shown at 
p. The set of motions is as follows: The keylever is 
struck by the operator which raises the keybar, just like 
that shown at c, the trigger tilts forward and permits 
the tripping cam to fall on the front rubber roll. The 
revolving tripping cam lifts the free end of cam yoke, 
and raises keybar, p. The keybar, p, is in line with the 
trigger, e, pivoted at 2. The rocking of the trigger, 2, 
allows the spaceband cam to fall on the rear rubber roll 
and pushes the keyrod up to deliver a spaceband. 

Some causes for non-response of matrices on models 9 
and 24 are as follows : 

End of cam yoke, g, at the end, 1, has become gummy. 
The cam does not fall on rubber roll when key is struck. 
Remove the offending cam and wipe off the ends of yoke. 
Wrap a cloth around the end of a screwdriver, pass 
into the opening of guide where free end of yoke works 
and wipe out the slot. 

Spring in plunger bar, 1, not strong enough to over¬ 
come tension of the various parts so that the rear point 
of escapement verge does not come even with the bottom 
of matrix channel in the magazine. 

Rubber roll having groove cut, which does not permit 
cam to exert enough leverage to raise yoke high enough 
to release matrix. 

Escapement rod. slide lever latch does not engage 
notches in the bracket properly. The releasing lever 
handle should be snapped in and released quickly. 



10 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


Several of the keyrods, h, out of line with upper and 
lower guides, due to the keyboard having been carelessly 
placed on its bracket on the machine frame. 

See if any of the escapement rod operating levers stick 
in their guides. The escapement rod operating levers and 
keyrods fall as a unit, by gravity. If the keyrod is bind¬ 
ing the lever will also be held up. 

Due to the jamming of a matrix protruding part way 
out of the magazine when a change is made, the rising 
and falling front can stick one or several of the escape 
ment operating rods, s. 

Dirty magazine or mats, or both, will cause matrices 
to stall part way out of the magazine when a key is 
struck. 

Weak escapement verge spring, k, or burred lower end 
of escapement verge, j, will interfere with the delivery 
of a matrix. 



I 


II. 

INTERTYPE KEYBOARD AND 
ESCAPEMENT MECHANISM 

T HE INTERTYPE escapement mechanism is fea¬ 
tured by a two-piece escapement verge, that is, the 
verge and spring for returning the verge to nor¬ 
mal position after the delivery of a matrix. The over¬ 
throw spring for the cushion stroke of the keyrod is 
mounted in the keyrod. 

A description of the keyboard and escapement mech¬ 
anism in action follows: 

The keybutton is depressed and the key lever a, Fig. 3, 
pivoted at 1, raises the keybar, b, until it strikes the 
banking bar, o. The keybar raises the end of the trig¬ 
ger, c, pivoted at 2. The cam yoke rests normally on 
the upturned end of the trigger, c, at 3, and the tilting of 
the trigger when a keybutton is depressed causes the 
free end of the trigger to back away from the cam yoke 
with a backward and also a downward movement. This 
action allows the cam yoke, d, to fall and the cam itself, 
e, touches the rubber roll, /. The cam yoke is pivoted 
at 4. The rubber roll revolves the cam and the end of 
the yoke rises, owing to the eccentric shape of the cam 
wheel. The yoke rises and causes an upward movement 
of the keyrod, g. The keyrod has contact with the verge, 
i, on the verge lug at 5. This causes the front point of 
the verge to be depressed and releases the matrix, k , 
from the magazine, /. While the front point of the 
verge is depressed and releasing the first matrix, the 
rear point rises and holds the second matrix until the 
first one has dropped out of the magazine. The rear 
point then returns to normal position and the front point 
holds the matrix until the keybutton is again depressed. 
Matrices fall by gravity. The verge bearing at m is 
1; rge and a considerable portion of the verge works 
a gainst it. The spring, j, returns the verge, i, to normal 
position after the keyrod has retracted. 

The intertype keyrod makes its stroke with a yielding 
action and is accomplished by making the keyrod in two 
til] 


12 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


sections, one called the keyrod, the other called the key- 
rod slide. A spring is mounted between the two parts. 
The cam yoke is fixed on one end with a hinge device, 
the cam revolves and positively raises the verge point 
(front) to clear the bottom of the channel in the maga¬ 
zine. The overthrow is taken care of by the spring in 
the keyrod, its two parts compressing slightly as the 



highest point of the stroke is reached. The spring fas¬ 
tened to the verge returns the verge to normal position 
after the keyrod has dropped away. The spring in the 
keyrod works against the weight of the keyrod itself, 





















Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


13 


the tension of the verge spring and the friction set up 
by the action of the escapement parts. 

The intertype verge and pawls are in one piece of steel 
after the fashion of a rocker, and, in fact, the verge has 
a rocking motion. If the verge point does not clear the 
bottom of the magazine channel when the keyrod is at 
its highest stroke, the rod slide spring may be weak and 
needs to be stiffened, or the point of the verge may need 
shortening if it has not been fitted when applied. The 
verge spring should have enough tension to pull the 
verge back into position immediately when the keyrod 
recedes to normal position. 

If the intertype verge should have a sluggish action 
owing to rust, polish with fine emery cloth and rub on a 
graphited board. 

The spring, n, embedded in the upper and lower parts 
of the keyrod, is placed there to take up the overthrow 
of the keyrod. The keyrod thus reaches its maximum 
stroke with a yielding thrust. When the keyrod is at 
its highest upstroke the front point of the verge should 
be flush with the bottom of the magazine channel. If 
a matrix seems to hestitate on delivery, especially double 
letters, shut off the power, depress the keybutton of the 
offending character, slowly turn the rubber roll shaft by 
hand until the keyrod has reached its highest stroke. Of 
course, all matrices should have been previously run out 
of this particular channel. Hold a light near the maga¬ 
zine mouth and see if the front point of the verge clears 
the bottom of the magazine channel, so the matrix can 
readily slide over it. If the point protrudes above the 
channel so as to partially obstruct the passage of the 
matrix, more than likely, the keyrod spring, n, is weak. 
It is a simple matter to either apply a new spring or cut 
off a coil or two of the one in use. 

The upper keyrod guide, h, can be shifted slightly side¬ 
ways so that the keyrods will squarely hit the lugs of 
the verges. A light can be placed at the left end of the 
magazine, and, looking from the rear, the relation of the 
keyrods to the verges can be noted. 

INTERTYPE ESCAPEMENT REPAIRS 

To the novice some abnormal actions of any verge 
will cause considerable trouble. When the escapement 



14 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


is once understood there will be no difficulty in maintain¬ 
ing it in good operating condition. These abnormalities 
do not as a rule occur on any machine until after a lapse 
of some time from the installation date. 

The points, a b, of Fig. 4 of the escapement should at 
no time extend above the bottom of the magazine chan¬ 
nel when either point is at its downstroke. When a new 
escapement is applied the points may have to be dressed 
to accomplish this. 

Especially note also that when the keyrod rises to 
deliver a matrix that the rear point, b, does not rise high 
enough to come in contract with the matrix sliding over 
it at the time. This will cause a hesitating delivery. 



The shoulder, e, fixes the normal position of the escape¬ 
ment and is held in that position until the keyrod. rises 
to rock the escapement. 

The shoulder, c, limits the stroke of the escapement 
when the keyrod rises, the shoulder banking against the 
magazine. 

The escapement keeper rod, d, if kinked or bent will 
interfere with the return stroke of the escapement, in 
some cases so much so that the spring, f, cannot return 
the escapement to normal position. 

The point, a, receives the shock of matrices sliding 



















Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


15 


down the channel that are being returned by the dis¬ 
tributor. After a long time this point may have become 
rounded off so that the heavier matrices will “sprinkle,” 
especially the em quads, that is, a matrix will drop into 
the assembler without the keybutton having been 
touched by the operator, especially the em quads. The 
same effect will result if the spring, f, loses its tension. 
Filing off too much from the point, a, will cause the same 
result. 

Do not confuse the escapement spring with the key- 
rod slide spring which is made of much heavier wire 
and is unsuitable for use on the escapements. 

TO REMOVE AND REPLACE INTERTYPE 
KEYBOARD RUBBER ROLLS 

Either twist or cut off the old roll, clean the shaft 
thoroughly, moisten inside of new roll with naphtha, 
start roll over shaft and hold hand over top of roll as 
you slide it on the shaft to compress the air inside and 
help it slide on easily. A piece of broom handle suitably 
fitted so that part of it will fit in the end of the rubber 
roll will have the same effect. The ends of the rubber 
roll can be glued to the shaft to prevent creeping if 
necessary. 



III. 


CARE OF THE KEYBOARD 

HE KEYBOARD of a line-casting machine should 
be entirely removed from the machine proper once 
a year and overhauled. 

Once every three months remove the cam yoke frames 
and cams and wash the cams and parts in benzine and 
lubricate the cam pivots with clock oil. This is the 
usual practice in all shops where the keyboards operate 
smoothly and without much trouble. 

Removing keyboards on different models of machines 
will involve slightly different operations or procedure, 
but the general process will be the same. 

PREPARING INTERTYPE KEYBOARD FOR 
REMOVAL 

The first thing to do on earlier models of Intertypes 
will be to tilt back the magazine cradle or frame, unscrew 
the keyrod guide (upper), strip and lift out the keyrods, 
laying them on galleys in the order in which they are 
taken from the machine. When replacing return them 
in the same order. This will insure an absence of annoy¬ 
ing trouble which can occur should a keyrod not work 
freely in a different position than that which it had 
before the removal. Also any certain keyrod might not 
touch the verge exactly as it should if changed to an¬ 
other slot. 

Late intertypes have a frame in which the keyrods 
are mounted and all the keyrods may be removed from 
the machine at one operation, by turning out two screws 
in the top guide and lifting out the assembled frame. 
This is a much appreciated improvement. The frame 
is also called the “harp.” 

After the keyrod frame is lifted out of an intertype 
the keyboard can easily be removed after taking off the 
cam yoke frames. 

To remove the cam yoke frames on earlier intertypes 
without removing the keyrods, take off the front cam 
yoke frame. Before removing the back cam yoke frame 
[ 16 ] 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


17 


block the lower keyrod guide with slugs, stereo base or 
wood blocks in the center, so that when che back cam 
yoke frame is removed the weight of the keyrods will 
not sag the guide and possibly cause trouble with the 
keyrods becoming jumbled. 

PREPARING LINOTYPE KEYBOARD FOR 
REMOVAL 

To remove a keyboard on models 8 and 14 proceed 
as follows: 

Turn magazine crank handle until the lower magazine 
is in operating position. Open vise to first position. 

For convenience and accessibility it will be necessary 
to remove the face plate as follows: 

Remove copy board, remove large assembler cover, 
disconnect assembler, keyboard and assembler matrix 
delivery belts. Remove the special blind screw and round 
nut passing through the assembler entrance plate, just 
under the matrix delivery belt supporting plate. A screw 
driver can be passed through the keyrods to turn it out 
from the rear. Turn out the remaining screws holding 
the assembler plate to the face plate casting. 

Disconnect the line delivery lever link by springing the 
link of the carriage stud screw with a screw driver, 
disconnect the transfer lever slide link by loosening screw 
in top of transfer lever just back of the transfer 
channel and withdraw pin, disconnect assembling eleva¬ 
tor lever from the assembling elevator, take out wire or 
pin that connects spaceband keyrod and keylever, tie up 
spaceband lever pawl with string so the pawl will not 
drop when the face plate is taken off, remove electric 
light from holder. 

Remove one screw from intermediate channel quad 
tumbling bar and raise bar so socket wrench can turn 
out on upper left-hand face plate screw which can now 
he loosened but not taken out; loosen lower left-hand 
face plate screw under the right-hand vice locking stud 
and take it out; loosen right-hand face plate screw at 
extreme right of face plate casting back of magazine 
crank handle, but do not take it out yet. 

The face plate is now ready to be taken off. This 
part of the operation will require the services of two 
persons, one handling the right end and the other the 



18 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


left end. Take out the upper left- and the right-hand 
large face plate screws and lift off the face plate. 

The keyrods and keyboard can now be readily manip¬ 
ulated. 

Remove the escapement lever bar support (assembled), 
one screw on either side and lift it out. Remove the 
keyboard rod banking bar. Remove the keyrod guide 
upper strip and lift out the keyrods and place them in 
the order in which they are removed from the machine 
on galleys. 

REMOVING KEYBOARD 

From this point on the removal of the keyboard on 
both linotypes and intertypes will be simiiar in procedure. 

Take off the keyboard cam yoke covers, remove the 
keyboard tray, take off both copy hooks, disconnect the 
assembling elevator lever, by unscrewing the screw in 
the bottom of the assembling elevator, disconnect the 
keyboard driving belt, take off the front and back cam 
yoke frames, remove the keyboard post screw at right- 
hand keyboard post (top) where it connects with the 
intermediate bracket. There are two large screws that 
anchor the keyboard to the base of the machine under* 
neath the keyboard, and these may now be taken out 
and the keyboard removed. 

On models 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 20 it will be necessary to 
proceed as above with a few exceptions, which are as 
follows: Lock verges in the magazine, remove the key¬ 
board cam yoke covers, remove driving belt, disconnect 
the assembling elevator lever from the assembling ele¬ 
vator, remove keyboard tray and the copy hooks, remove 
both front and back cam yoke frames, take out the two 
screws that hold the keyrod lower guide to the posts and 
two screws that hold the lower spring plate to the posts, 
take out the two large screws that fasten the keyboard 
to the projection on base of machine. Have someone 
lightly pull the lower spring plate and the guide plate 
apart and tilt the front end of keyboard up so the dowels 
for the cam yoke frames in the posts will not catch on 
the spring plate and guide. Some care should be exer¬ 
cised here or the keyrod springs will slip off the keyrods 
and plate, and become disconnected, entailing considerable 
extra work. 

On earlier models of linotypes the lower keyrod guide 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


19 


serves as a spring bar to which the keyrod springs are 
attached. If carefully done, the lower keyrod guide can 
be removed from the keyrods, leaving the lower ends of 
the keyrods free. Wash the guide in gasoline and 
replace. Considerable dirt collects around the guide 
owing to the assembler belt throwing small particles in 
between the keyrods, from which place they drop in 
between the keyrods and deposit themselves on the guide. 
When replacing hold the lower guide in a tilted position 
with one hand and work each keyrod into its proper slot. 

OVERHAULING AND CLEANING THE 
KEYBOARD 

The keyboard can now be taken to the bench and the 
actual work of cleaning it commenced. 

The keylever banks should be removed first. On early 
linotypes there is a screw in the end of each keylever 
fulcrum rod which keeps it from slipping out. On later 
machines, both linotype and intertype, there is one locking 
strip which can be taken off after turning out two 
screws. The fulcrum rods can be withdrawn and the 
keylevers pulled out. Turn the keyboard around, take 
off the keyboard banking bar, the rear guard (if there 
is one on the machine), and on later models the keyboard 
locking bar. The banking bars can now be lifted out. 
Remove the assembling elevator lever and handle. Set 
these parts to one side. 

Remove the rubber rolls from the cam yoke frames, 
also the cams and triggers. 

Immerse all the parts of the keyboard in gasoline and 
use a stiff fibre brush to thoroughly wash them. It will 
require about two quarts of gasoline for this process 
and in some cases a gallon. 

It is a good idea to first wash the keyboard cams, 
taking one at a time and brush thoroughly after they 
have soaked in the gasoline for a short period. If you 
are not equipped with compressed air dry them with a 
soft cloth and lay them out separately, leaving them dry 
over night. The reason for this is easily explained. 
Drying the cams with a cloth does not reach the cam 
pivot, and if clock oil is applied immediately the gasoline 
surrounding the pivot will dilute the oil and help to 
evaporate it. A dry cam will cause transpositions and 



20 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


is hard on a rubber roll. In a short time the cams will 
become dry on their pivots and revolve more or less un¬ 
certainly on the rubber roll, causing the operator consid¬ 
erable trouble with his proofs. 

After the keyboard cams are thoroughly dried oil the 
pivots with clock oil. Use a small wire to deposit a 
small quantity on each side of the pivot. 

Numerous experiments have proved that regular clock 
oil for the purpose of lubricating keyboard cams is the 
best to use, There are several light oils on the market 
that are urged for this use, but it is best to let them 
alone. Clock oil can be bought from any jeweler. These 
light oils which are sold as substitutes for clock oil 
probably have their uses but do not serve the purpose 
when it comes to lubricating a keyboard, the cams of 
which ordinarily receive attention once in three months. 

The danger lies in the fact that most of these oils dry 
up or evaporate readily. Another thing to consider is 
that if the temperature of the room is subjected to cold¬ 
ness for any length of time the oils become viscid and 
much difficulty is experienced when first starting so that 
the cam wheels will not revolve as they should. 

When the cams have been oiled examine them to see 
if the milled edge on each cam has become rounded from 
use. These teeth will not become rounded until the 
machine has been in use for a long time. If the teeth 
are rounded a small three-cornered file will be useful. 
Do not file any of the teeth unnecessarily. 

Wipe out the cam yoke frame slots with a cloth 
wrapped on the end of a piece of six-point brass rule, 
changing the cloth frequently so the gum in the slots 
will be entirely removed. 

Polish the triggers on a pine board with dry graphite. 
See that the trigger wire is straight and also polished 
with graphite. Assemble the triggers in both front and 
back cam yoke frames. 

After assembling the cams polish the hinge rod with 
graphite and pass through holes to place. This only 
applies to earlier linotypes. The intertype has a post or 
bearing which straddles an 8-32 screw on each cam. 
When removing a cam from the keyboard to fix any cer¬ 
tain letter, give the post screw a turn and a half. It is 
not necessary to take each screw entirely out. 

Wash the rubber rolls and ends of shafts in gasoline 





Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


21 


and dry immediately. There is a difference of opinion as 
to the action of gasoline on keyboard rubber rolls. Some 
machinists prefer to roughen them with coarse flint paper, 
wash them in soapy water and wipe with a cloth. Wash¬ 
ing them in gasoline eliminates all the special prepara¬ 
tion of the water and the sandpaper operation and the 
rolls seem to last as long as when washed by any other 
method. 

Put in the rubber roll shaft and bring all the cams to 
normal. Lock the triggers with the 1/16 inch wire 
through the upper hole of the triggers. On earlier ma¬ 
chines see that the bracket screws on the outside of the 
cam yoke frames are slightly loose. 

The keybars after being washed and dried should be 
polished on a pine board having graphite on it, and all 
burrs removed with a fine file. Stack the keybars in a 
row and with a stiff brush and graphite polish their 
edges. Graphiting the keybars gives the keybuttons a 
light smooth touch and is as valuable an operation as 
cleaning and lubricating the keyboard cams. The key- 
levers also need polishing on the ends where they work 
in the frame slots and against the keybars. The key¬ 
board banking bar and the fulcrum rods may be washed. 
Lastly, wash the keyboard frame inside and out until 
thoroughly clean, not neglecting the slots in which the 
levers and keybars work. After drying, wipe out the 
slots of the keyboard cam yoke frames and the keyboard 
itself with a cloth wrapped around the edge of a brass 
rule. Considerable black gum deposit collects in the 
slots and if not removed will prevent a cam yoke drop¬ 
ping readily at the free end onto the rubber roll. The 
gum or rust collecting in the keybar guides sometimes 
will make the action of the keylevers stiff to the touch 
of the operator. 

Polish the cam yoke triggers on a pine board. 

Polish the banking bar and the keylever fulcrum rods 
with graphite. 

To reassemble the keyboard parts proceed as follows: 

Sort the six different lengths of keylevers into as many 
piles and start putting in the lower row first, then slip 
the fulcrum rod through the bearing holes, and so on 
with the next row until all six rows have been assembled. 
The individual locking screws can then be put in the 
ends of the fulcrum rods, or the small keylever fulcrum 



22 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


rod keeper, according to which style locking device the 
nwichine is equipped. 

Now turn the keyboard around and tilt the back of the 
keyboard with a block or some suitable support under¬ 
neath to hold it in that position. This will prevent the 
keybars from falling out of the guides during the process 
of assembling. Before assembling the keybars sort them 
into six different piles, then put one of each into another 
pile, until all of them have been sorted ready to place 
in position on the keyboard. The new-style banking bars 
of both linotype and mtertype are of only two kinds, 
front and back, and each has three notches cut in the 
front side for the accommodation of the end of the key- 
lever. This does away with so much extra handling and 
is a great improvement. In case the keyboard has the 
new style banking bars, sort them into one row, alter¬ 
nately front and back, then place in proper position on 
the keyboard. Return the keybar banking bar to place 
and the guard and keyboard lock. Place the assembling 
elevator lever and the spaceband lever in position. 

The keyboard can now be returned to place on the 
machine base. This operation is a reversal of the re¬ 
moval. 

If you have removed the lower keyrod guide and 
spring plates on models 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 linotypes, return 
the keyrod guide to place before putting on the key¬ 
board. This can be accomplished as mentioned above, 
by tilting the guide up and with the aid of duckbill pliers 
work each keyrod into its slot in the guide. 

While putting on the keyboard have someone again 
hold open the lower keyrod guide and spring plates and 
tilt the keyboard in with a slow rocking motion, being 
careful not to catch the dowels of the keyboard posts on 
the ends of the guide. After turning up the three screws 
that hold the keyboard in place attack the lower guide 
and spring plates to the keyboard posts, connect all the 
keyrod springs, both front and back. 

After the cam yokes frames have been returned to posi¬ 
tion on the keyboard withdraw the locking wires which 
you have previously passed through the triggers. 

Wash the keybuttons with ordinary household am¬ 
monia. This is the best article for the purpose and the 
easiest to use. A small, dry cloth will answer the pur¬ 
pose to apply it. 



IV. 


KEYBOARD TROUBLES 

HE EASIEST way to meet keyboard troubles is to 
prepare yourself with the necessary remedial 



knowledge in advance so that when trouble does 
occur you will know how to find the source of difficulty. 
By referring to the illustrations of the keyboard mechan¬ 
ism and escapement, starting from the keybutton and 
working up, and committing the various actions to mem¬ 
ory, you will be able to recognize the seat of trouble on 
short notice. 

If any certain letter does not respond, depress the 
keybutton and note if the keyboard cam is revolving, or 
if the keyrod is moving up and down. If these parts 
are in action, then the trouble lies in the magazine escape¬ 
ment, or the magazine or matrix is at fault. 

When the keybutton is depressed and the cam remains 
stationary, it is possible that the free end of the cam 
yoke is being held in suspension by a deposit of gum 
between the cam yoke and slot where the cam yoke works 
up and down in the slot in the cam yoke guide plate. 

Any one cam causing this trouble can be removed, the 
end of the yoke cleaned, the cam oiled with clock oil if 
dry, and the guide slot wiped out with a cloth wrapped 
on the end of a screw driver and working it up and down 
in the opening. 

The hinge rod which holds the front end of the cam 
yoke in position may have a kink where it passes through 
the cam yoke. If the rubber roll is hard and glazed the 
cam might not turn readily. In this case remove the 
rubber rolls, roughen their surface with coarse flint paper, 
or wash in gasoline and dry immediately. The teeth in 
the edge of the keyboard cam, being rounded and dull pre¬ 
vent the cam turning readily when it drops on the rubber 
roll. It is possible, through carelessness, that the cam 
yoke has become twisted and binds in its slot in the cam 
yoke guide plate slot. If the cam revolves and the 
matrix does not respond see if a groove has not been 
cut by the cam in the rubber roll. A cam may also drop 


[ 23 ] 


24 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


on the rubber roll and refuse to turn readily, owing to a 
dry pivot which needs good clock oil. 

Sometimes the cam will revolve freely and the keyrod 
will be held in an elevated position. This can be caused 
by a twisted keyrod. On old linotypes the keyrod de¬ 
pends upon a keyrod spring to pull it back to normal 
position after being raised by the cam, against the stress 
of the verge spring. If the keyrod spring is weak or 
has lost its tension, the remedy is obvious. Apply a new 
spring or cut off about one-eighth inch from the old 
spring and replace. 

On old style linotypes see if the verges and pawls are 
making their full stroke. That is, the end of the front 
pawl must come at least even with the bottom of the 
channel in the magazine so the matrix will slide over the 
top of the pawl freely and without hesitancy. As the 
keyrod rises its releases the verge which also makes a 
stroke, being urged by the verge spring. If the keyrod 
rises and the verge does not follow the action, probably 
the verge spring is weak or has slipped off the verge, or 
the verges or pawls are binding in their slots. 

It then follows that if the escapement mechanism 
seems to be working freely, the trouble lies in the pres¬ 
ence of dirt in the magazine channel, or the matrix is 
dirty or bent and binds against the sides of the magazine 
channel. 

It should be remembered on new style linotypes and 
intertypes that the succesful delivery of a matrix 
depends almost entirely upon the height to which the 
keyrod rises when the keyboard cam revolves. 

By referring to the illustrations it will be seen that 
there is a pushing action of the keyrod upon the verge, 
instead of the keyrod releasing the verge as in the older 
style machines. 

“Double letters,” or continuous response, can occur to 
any letter on the keyboard. The keybutton will remain 
down after being depressed by the operator, as though 
the finger were holding it down. This is usually caused 
by rust or dirt between the keybar and the banking bar. 
Generally benzine forced or squirted on the keybar by 
means of an oil can will remedy the trouble. Mean¬ 
while vigorously tap the keybutton rapidly for a short 
time. An ordinary oil can with long spout is used to 
apply the benzine. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


25 


Sometimes a cloth wrapped on the end of a thin, flat 
stick and having dry graphite sprinkled on it, will stop 
double letters. When rubbed against the keybars just 
under the banking bar. 



V. 


CLEANING MAGAZINES AND CARE 
OF MATRICES 

I T SHOULD not be necessary to clean the insides of 
magazines oftener than once in every three months. 
Matrices should be cleaned as often and at the same 
time. Magazines and matrices will not require cleaning 
and will operate satisfactorily according to the cleans 
liness of the machine and only accumulate oil, graphite 
and dirt according to the manner in which the machines 
are maintained. If, on oiling day, care is not exercised 
in applying small amounts to the distributor bearings, 
the oil will flow out and on the ends of the distributor > 
screws. The matrices passing through the screws will 
be contaminated and as they work through the machine 
graphite and other substances will be accumulated by 
the oil. This will cause a sluggish delivery from the 
magazine and untold distributor trouble. If too much 
oil is applied to the assembler bearings at the star wheel 
or the assembling elevator gate the same result will be 
obtained. Dirty, inky or perspiring fingers will foul 
matrices to some extent. 

It cannot be too strongly impressed on the person tak¬ 
ing care of the machine that excess oil should be most 
carefully guarded against. It is much more enjoyable 
to do preventive work than to work twice as hard to 
overcome the evils caused by slovenly or careless hand¬ 
ling of the oil cans. 

To clean a magazine successfully means that when 
the operation is completed the inside of the channel 
plates must be clean and free from oil, dirt, or the resi¬ 
due which might be left from the cleaning fluid em¬ 
ployed, and the inside surfaces must be polished to some 
extent. Hairs sticking in the magazine which have 
pulled from the cleaning brush must also be pulled out 
or broken off. 

Open the assembler to 30 ems as well as the line de¬ 
livery carriage. Hold the wooden tray that comes with 
the machine, or an ordinary galley in case the tray is not 
[ 26 ] 


Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


27 


available, in your lap while seated at the keyboard. Run 
the matrices down into the assembler by passing the first 
fingers of your left and right hands alternately down the 
first row of keys, “etaoin.” When the first six channels 
have been run out, pass on to the next row, “shrdlu,” 
and so on across the keyboard, not forgetting to include 
the pi matrices with the font. 

Place the tray of matrices on a convenient bench or 
work stone and rub them with a typewriter eraser or 
an electrotyper’s rubber polishing square. Do not use 
anything grittier than these. The reference sides of 
the matrices and the bottoms can be cleaned. Then turn 
them over and clean the tops and casting side. However, 
avoid rubbing the matrices adjacent to the casting cells 
or some of the side walls will be crushed or bent over, 
which might produce hair lines in print. A discoloration 
near the casting cells will not interfere with their work¬ 
ing qualities. 

Be very particular to remove all fine particles which 
may lodge between the matrices and the combination 
teeth. A small, stiff bristle brush will remove them, in 
case you don’t have access to a compressed air blast. The 
tray of matrices can now be set aside. 

In some instances a magazine can be cleaned on the 
machine, by placing large paper sheets or cloth over the 
assembler and channel entrances, but the best method 
will be to remove the magazine from the machine and 
place it on the work bench or stone. Turn it upside 
down. Pass the dry brush through several times, and 
with compressed air or hand bellows blow out the 
loosened dust. 

When a magazine has not been brushed out for some 
time there will be an accumulation in the channels of 
the top plate, spaced about 1 Y\ inches apart, the dis¬ 
tance equalling the length of matrices. This accumula¬ 
tion must be removed to obtain satisfactory results. Hold 
a light at one end of the magazine and peer through 
from the other end and you will understand just what 
is meant. 

Procure an ordinary oil can and inject the cleaning 
fluid into the magazine. Also saturate the brush. Pass 
the brush into the magazine and vigorously rub until all 
the adhering dirt has been dislodged. The magazine will 
now be allowed to stand until the fluid you have used 



28 


Linotypes and Inter types 


has evaporated—that is, if the fluid employed requires 
time to dry up. Then brush thoroughly with a dry 
brush. Hold the light again at one end of the magazine 
and look through to make certain that the inside is clean. 
Then remove the brush hairs that may be sticking in or 
near the channel partitions. 

There are several fluids which can be employed in the 
cleaning of magazines for the removal of foreign sub¬ 
stances. It is an impossibility to brush out a magazine 
with a dry brush and expect a clear surface. 

Carbon tetrachloride is recommended as the best agent 
for this work. It has an advantage that it evaporates 
quickly, does not injure the hands nor will it injure the 
brass in the magazine. However, brush the magazine 
thoroughly to polish it after the liquid has evaporated. 

Benzol, a coal tar product, can be employed. It is an 
explosive. It also evaporates quickly. 

It is never desirable to use gasoline for this purpose. 
It leaves the brass in the magazine with a rough sur¬ 
face, which, if highly magnified, would resemble moun¬ 
tains. It requires considerable time to evaporate. In 
fact, some of it leaves a greasy residue which has the 
effect of making matrices sticky and sluggish when pass¬ 
ing through the magazine. If gasoline must be used, 
in case nothing else is obtainable, much effort will have 
to be expended to help along the drying process and 
polishing the brass again. 

If graphite must be used to polish the inside of the 
magazine, brush or blow out the free particles before 
returning the magazine to the machine. 

After the magazine has been returned to the machine 
the matrices may be run in again by drawing out the 
shifter with one hand while pushing about a two-inch row 
of matrices with the other hand onto the second elevator 
bar, or the matrices can be run in by opening the assem¬ 
bler to 30 ems and sending lines through in the regular 
way. During this operation it is best to remove the pot 
plunger pin. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


29 


REPAIRING MATRICES 

Repairing matrices, in many 
instances, is a doubtful prop¬ 
osition, yet there are many 
things that can be done with 
a matrix that does not act 
normally. 

The most common damage 
to a matrix occurs when one 
or more of its lugs become 
slightly bent in the distributor 
box. Even if the box is in 
good condition, occasionally 
the lugs of a matrix will be¬ 
come bent. When straight¬ 
ening a matrix hold it on a 
6-inch steel scale or the 
smooth side of a slug, using 
it after the fashion of a 
straight edge. Bend the lug with a pair of pliers and 
test on the scale or slug. Tapping a matrix to straighten 
bent lugs or body will swell or distort it. 

Due to age or abnormal wear, a matrix will become 
spread apart at the top or between the combination teeth. 
In this event slide the matrix onto a taper bar. If spread 
apart here a slight squeeze in a vise will make the matrix 
serviceable again. The taper bar mentioned can be 
bought from the manufacturers of the machine and is a 
valuable tool in this work. As a makeshift device a 
section of distributor box or second elevator bar will 
serve the purpose. 

A small matrix anvil, made from a 34-16 hexagon 
head cap screw makes a valuable tool when working with 
matrices that have had their teeth distorted. 

The sketch will give a working idea. The anvil is 
designed to fasten in a vise while being used. After it 
is shaped and finished it can be case hardened with cyan¬ 
ide of sodium. Heat the anvil to a bright red and rub 
in the cyanide. Do this twice. The third time heat the 
anvil until it is a bright red, rub in the cyanide and 
plunge in cool water. The top then can be finished 
bright. This method of case-hardening will make the 
anvil sufficiently hard for the purpose. 











30 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


Place the anvil in a vise, hold the matrix on the anvil 
with the combination teeth over it, and flatten the teeth 
with light hammer taps. Occasionally the teeth will be 
curled upward and they can be straightened by holding 



Fig. 6. 











































Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


31 


any tooth against the point or side of the anvil and tap 
the bottom of the matrix with the hammer. 

If a combination tooth on one side of the combination 
recess has the point knocked off, discard the matrix. If 
any of the lugs have been cut by the mold aligning rail, 
discard the matrix. The lugs being sheared even a small 
amount will cause the letter it casts to appear out of line 
with the letters adjacent. 

The blanks on new sorts matrices sometimes are im¬ 
perfectly trimmed out and will require dressing with 
a small four-inch square file, so that the overhanging 
metal will not interfere with perfect distribution. When 
matrices have been in use for some time, some of them 
will throw up a false tooth or hook, shown at 5-j, Fig. 6, 
where there should be a blank, and interfere with good 
distribution, either lying flat on the channel entrance 
partitions or dropping in the wrong channel. Clean out 
the false teeth with a small square file, and, if the matrix 
is sprung apart between the teeth, a slight squeeze in a 
vise will put it in workable shape again. 

CAUSES OF DAMAGE TO MATRICES 

Fig. 6 shows several types of damages that can occur 
to matrices and they are explained as follows: 

No. 1 —This matrix has had its lower lugs sheared by 
the adjusting bar in the front first elevator jaw, shown 
at o, and the lug, b, has been sheared by the aligning rail 
in the mold, due to a tight or overset line with the 
matrices presented to the mold in normal position. The 
back lug, d, in No. 2 also split by the aligning rail in 
the mold. 

No. 2 —The front lug, c, was cut by the duplex rail 
in the first elevator jaw. The back lug, d, has had the 
top of the lug sheared by the mold. At e is shown a 
tooth curled up or distorted during one of the transfers 
due to the bars being out of alignment. 

No. 3 —This matrix has had the lower back lug, g, 
mashed when the operator sent over a line of matrices in 
auxiliary position and also allowed the first elevator slide 
filling piece or “flopper” to remain in operating position 
on the vise cap. This raises the line of matrices high 
enough to present the lower back lugs directly under the 
opening, constant side of the mold. At / are shown two 
combination teeth knocked off, due to misalignment of 



32 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


the second elevator transfer or the transfer from the 
second elevator bar to the distributor box bar. 

No. 4 —The teeth marked h have become quite small, 
due to long use of this matrix. The em quad is used a 
great deal and the combinations will wear out before 
some of the other characters. The lug, i, can become 
bent when the operator sends in his line and raises the 
assembling elevator with considerable force, so that the 
matrices jumble and before the line delivery carriage 
has entered the delivery channel the left-hand end matrix 
strikes the back rail in the delivery channel. Occurs on 
thin matrices. 

No. 5—Explained above in the paragraphs relating to 
the repair of matrices. 

No. 6 —At m are shown the delicate side walls of the 
matrix, which will become crushed in or broken off, 
and in some cases actually burned off from overheated 
metal casting for a long period. 

The spacebands accumulate metal at the casting point 
on the sleeve after they have been neglected and it is 
but a short time until the entire font will be ruined. Hair 
lines will show between the letters of the type. 

The lower lug, l, can be flattened on the under side 
due to natural wear from assembling in the assembling 
elevator. This lug can also be cut or chafed by the 
small assembler entrance cover projecting back of the 
large cover. This lug on thin matrices can be bent in 
the distributor box, due to worn rails, rounded raising lip 
on the distributor box lift or worn distributor box 
matrix lift cam. 

The upper corner of the lug, k, will become chafed 
when caught between the lower front distributor box rail 
and the lower front distributor screw thread. 

No. 7 —The under side of the matrix lugs o and n, 
especially the lug, o, cuffs the detaining plates in the 
assembling elevator adjacent to the assembler chute rails 
and throws up burrs on the lugs. This can be minimized 
by fitting the plates close to the assembler chute rail 
and keeping the assembling elevator front rail fibre buf¬ 
fer in good repair. 

No. 8 —Matrices having combination teeth in lower end 
of combination recess, shown at r, especially the capital 
T, are likely to become injured due to imperfect align¬ 
ment of the second elevator bar with the first elevator 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


33 


at transfer; too much space between the second elevator 
and distributor box bars, or the imperfect alignment of 
distributor box rails with the distributor bar. The font 
distinguisher slot, shown at p, can be injured on either 
side, by wilfully forcing the shifter against a matrix 
that has been stopped by the font distinguisher. 

No. 9 —These ears, q q, can be bent or flattened due to 
the lift slipping off while raising the matrix into the 
screws, due to rounded lifting seat; if the lift lever ad¬ 
justment is not set so a matrix will be lifted about 1 /32" 
clear of the rails when distributor is running these ears 
will be caught by the screw threads and jammed against 
the vertical faces of the upper distributor box rails. A 
worn distributor box matrix lift lever cam will be the 
cause of the bending of the upper ears. See chapter per¬ 
taining to the distributor box. The front upper ear, q, 
can be bent on two-pitch distributor screws of the spiral 
automatic spring is too strong or if the clutch itself is 
too strong and does not release easily. 



VI. 


SPACEBAND BOXES 

T HERE is no mystery about a spaceband box, either 
linotype or intertype; the spaceband box, though, 
can be the source of aggravating assembling 
troubles. This statement is made for the benefit of those 
machinists and operators who now and then complain 
about the “imperfect mechanism” in these devices. Neces¬ 
sarily the parts of composing machines are complicated, 
rendered so on account of the intricate work expected of 
them. 

A little thought as to the operation of the parts in¬ 
volved when a spaceband is being delivered will often 
solve the difficulty as to how to remedy a transposed de¬ 
livery, sticking in the box or non-delivery. In fact, an¬ 
alysis will conquer 80 per cent, of the troubles met with 
in the operation of either linotypes or intertypes. 

LINOTYPE BOX 

The workings of the various parts of a linotype space- 
band box appear to be simple enough until one or more 
of its parts do not function properly. 

If the actions of the various parts are thoroughly un¬ 
derstood the trouble can be located quickly. When the 
spaceband key lever is struck, the keyboard spaceband cam 
is set in motion just the same as if one of the letter key- 
buttons were struck. The cam revolves and raises the 
keyrod which is connected with the spaceband keylever 
and pivoted at the back of the assembler entrance. The 
action of the keylever operates the spaceband box pawl 
levers, lowers the pawls, which, as they descend, move 
in under the lugs of the spaceband. The keylever rises 
and the pawls lift the band clear of the throatpiece and 
the hooks of the spaceband box top rails. The pawls 
remain at their upstroke until they descend again to de¬ 
liver the next spaceband. Meanwhile the spaceband 
drops into the assembling elevator. 

If the pawls, aa, Fig. 7, become rusty or gummy the 
springs, bb, cannot push them under the spaceband lugs 
on the downstroke. This will call for the removal of the 
134 ] 


Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


35 


spaceband box from the machine. If there is no time 
to remove the box put a little benzol or gasoline between 
the pawls and the box castings to loosen the action of the 
pawls until time can be had to take the box to the bench. 

To remove the box from the machine shut off con¬ 
trolling lever, depress the elevator transfer slide releas¬ 
ing lever, grasp the first elevator cam with one hand 
and back the machine until the spaceband lever pawl has 
moved to the left far enough to rest in the transfer chan¬ 
nel. The object in backing the machine is to prevent 
the dropping of the spaceband lever pawl and the loss of 
the pawl spring when the box is removed. 

The box can now be removed by turning out the one 
large screw in the center of the spaceband box, discon¬ 
necting the pawl lever adjusting screw from the space- 
band keylever and lifting off of the dowel pins. 

Open the gate at the side of the box, and lift out the 
pawls. It will not be necessary to unscrew the lifting 
screw's or take out the springs. When returning to place 
hold up the inside ends of the pawl springs and slip the 
pawl on the end of the lifting screw’s and let the pawl 
drop to place. 

While the pawls are out polish them on a graphited 
board and clean out the places in the box where they 
travel. When a box is in good repair polishing the pawls 
will usually be sufficient treatment. 

Spaceband box pawls should be the same length when 
both pawls are in the box. The length can be determined 
by placing both pawls on a lifting screw taken from the 
box. The longer pawl can be stoned off at the bevel on 
top. Do not stone the vertical edge, 1, to shorten the 
pawl. 

The pawl points should not project past the vertical 
faces, 2, of the spaceband box rails more than the thick¬ 
ness of the ears of one spaceband. If the pawds extend 
further they might interfere with the free delivery of the 
band. 

The vertical faces of the spaceband box rails, 2, wear 
in time through friction from the bands being lifted over 
the points. As the vertical faces wear the pawls will have 
a greater “bite.” That is, the points will extend under 
the ears of the second spaceband and attempt to lift it 
along with the first one. This can be overcome so the 
pawls will not bite more than one spaceband by bending 



36 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


the pawl points or bellying the pawls above the spring 
slot, shown at a, b and c, Fig. 8. In this way, the space- 
band box rails can be made to last indefinitely. On old 
machines which must still do regular duty this will be 



encountered to some extent due to the fact that the pawls 
have worn a slight groove or ditch in the spaceband box 
casting where the pawls bear while working on the up¬ 
stroke. This groove, as explained above, will permit the 
pawls to have too much bite, or in other words, the space- 
bands apparently slide so far forward as to have more 
than the thickness of one spaceband in position over the 































Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


37 


pawls. When the pawls rise to deliver a band they will 
catch on the second spaceband and attempt to raise it. 

Bellying the pawls gives them a different bearing sur¬ 
face. When the pawls are bent it may be necessary to 
bevel off the lower ends so they won’t project out into 
the chute space so far as to interfere with the passage 
of the lugs when a spaceband is dropping into the assem¬ 
bling elevator. This is shown at b. 

If the box and rails are not too old, some of the ver¬ 
tical faces of the pawls, shown at 1 , Fig. 7, can be stoned 
off to prevent them lifting more than one band at a time. 




Fig. 8. 


Another way to do the job, and perhaps the most satis¬ 
factory method, is to heat the pawl point, shown at c, in 
Fig. 8, in a flame until a low red color appears, let cool 
slowly. This will remove the temper. Then bend the 
point back a little, try in the box until it is right. After 
the pawl points have been fitted, heat the points again 
to a bright red and quickly dip into cool water to restore 
the hard temper and wearing qualities. 

The tops of spaceband box rails, shown at d, in time 
will become chattered or saw-like next to the hooks, so 
much so as to prevent bands from sliding down against 
vertical faces of the rails. These notches can be dressed 
or stoned off. 

Spaceband box pawls may be said to have become worn 










38 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


out when the shoulder, shown at 1, Fig. 7, has been al¬ 
most if not entirely removed. 

Ears on spacebands, if too thin, will permit two space- 
bands to be raised at a time. That is, if two or three 
spacebands in a set have thin ears or lugs, they can cause 
occasional double delivery, because the spaceband box 
centrebar lugs are set to hold down the second spaceband 



as the first one is being lifted over the rail hooks. The 
second spaceband will rise due to friction of the first 
spaceband being lifted, and if the second spaceband lugs 
are thin, it, too, will be delivered with the first one. 

It is necessary to have some means for adjusting the 
spaceband box centrebar lugs, as well as having a means 
of holding the second spaceband down, due to the fact that 


























Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


39 


there are several thicknesses of spacebands in use which 
are required for different sizes of type or where spacing 
or a certain kind is required. The centrebar set for thin 
spacebands would have to be reset when extra thick 
spacebands are introduced into the machine, owin^ to the 
difference in thickness of the sleeve ears. 

In the course of time the underside of the spaceband 
sleeve lugs will become rounded. This will occasionally 
interfere with the prompt delivery of one spaceband at 
a time. Square the lugs on the underside with a fine pil¬ 
lar file having a safe edge. This should be done only 
when the lugs have become badly rounded. 

The spaceband box chute side pieces have a beveled 
delivery extension at the bottom, d, Fig. 9, which nar¬ 
rows the space between them down to a width to freely 
let a spaceband fall through vertically. The top of this 
extension is beveled down as well as to the right. The 
bevel should recede from left to right on both side pieces. 
The idea is that this receding bevel will deflect the space- 
bands against the right-hand or long plate, c, and directly 
above the star wheel where it can be crowded into the 
assembler at a common assembling point along with the 
matrices. If this receding bevel has been worn away 
to some extent the spacebands will jumble with the 
matrices, not dropping in between the matrices at the 
precise time, or else will skid out on top of the matrix 
line. 

The spaceband box chute plate, short, b, at the lower 
end should be bent about even with the chute side pieces. 
If it extends outward too much spacebands will drop or 
twist at the wrong time when the assembling level is 
reached. 

The top part of the short chute plate, a, on linotypes 
only, serves as a throat piece, whose function is to hold 
the bottoms of the spacebands clear of the chute passage 
so that the band being delivered will not be interfered 
with by those in the box. Usually this throat piece works 
best when it has a retaining hold on the lower ends of 
the spacebands of about 3/64". Before attempting to 
bend the short plate for adjustment investigate to see 
if it is tempered. Also note whether there is not a space- 
band in the set with worn ears which will allow the 
band to hang lower than the rest. 

On the old Model 1 linotype the spaceband lever was 



40 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


assembled at the hub or fulcrum and then soldered. Oc¬ 
casionally this soldered joint would crack and endless 
spaceband trouble was had until the trouble was located, 
the lever removed and soldered again. 

After a machine has been in use some time the pin 
where the spaceband lever and its key rod join will have 
worn the hole to an elliptical shape, cause lost motion 
and also interfere with the regular delivery of spacebands 
from the box. This may be repaired by drilling the 
hole with a larger drill and inserting larger pin, or patch 
on a new piece. 

The spaceband box pawl lever hinge pin, f, Fig. 7, has 
been known to become stiff in its bearing in the box. Re¬ 
move the hinge pin, brighten the pin with emery cloth, 
clean out the bearing hole, polish the hinge pin with fine 
emery cloth; graphite and replace. If oil is applied here 
it might cause trouble through becoming gummy. Also 
see that the taper pins, gg, have not worked loose in either 
front or back levers. 

The spaceband box is operated by the last cam in the 
rear cam yoke frame and is also nearest the end of the 
rubber roll. If too much oil is injected into the rear 
rubber roll shaft bearing it will flow beyond the oil guard 
and rot the rubber roll. The cam will soon cut a groove 
in the roll which will not permit it to operate the box 
pawls low enough to get under the spaceband lugs for de¬ 
livery. 

To make the spaceband pawl adjustment, shut off 
motor, depress spaceband key, turn rubber roll shaft by 
hand until the spaceband box pawl levers are at their 
lowest stroke, then observe whether the pawl points are 
about 1 /32" below the top edge of the top rails. 

SOME CAUSES FOR SPACEBAND TROUBLES 

Rear rubber roll has deep groove cut in by spaceband 
cam. Roll also softened and rotted by excess of oil in 
roll shaft bearing. 

Rubber roll excessively hard due to age. 

Teeth in periphery of spaceband cam worn round and 
smooth. Sharpen with fine file. 

Pin which joins spaceband keyrod and lever has worn 
an elliptically shaped hole in rod or lever, or both. Drill 
hole with oversize drill and put in new pin, or patch 
with new pieces. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


41 


On old linotypes the fulcrum bearing on lever breaks 
or becomes unjointed. Solder joint (cone-shaped) build¬ 
ing up strongly. 

On linotypes spring on spaceband keyrod weak. Cut 
off three or four coils or apply new spring. If space- 
band keyrod spring is too strong the cam will cut a 
groove in rubber roll. This spring causes the return of 
the keyrod to normal and while doing so lifts the space- 
band out of the box. 

Spaceband box pawl springs weak. Pawls bent, rusty 
or gummy. 

Pawls have too much “bite.” Explained above. 

One or both taper pins in spaceband box pawl levers 
loose. 

Box pawl lever hinge pin stiff in bearing, preventing 
the levers and pawls from dropping of their own weight. 

Centrebar set too far forward or back. Adjust with 
screw in top of centrebar until one band delivers at a 
time. 

Pawls not of even height when raising a band, causing 
one ear to start turning or twisting. 

Spaceband box pawl lifting screw cut by pawl or the 
screw has enlarged hole in the pawl. 

Adjusting lip in chute bent too far in or out. Should 
be just even with side pieces. 

Box throatpiece too far to left, which does not give 
enough retaining hold on lower end of spaceband. Should 
be adjusted so it will have retaining hold on the band of 
about 3/64". If bent too high the pawls cannot raise 
band high enough to clear top of throatpiece. 

The Range, or receding bevel, in spaceband box chute 
worn flat. If too hard to dress with file, stone it. 

INTERTYPE BOX 

Describing an intertype spaceband box to one who has 
not yet seen the device, is a rather difficult proposition, 
due to the fact that the usual parts we associate with 
this device on linotypes have been eliminated by the 
makers of the intertype and the release of the space- 
bands into the assembler is accomplished by an entirely 
different mechanism. 

The spaceband lever, c, Fig. 13, depresses a pawl at 
the rear of the box, c, Fig. 11, and the pawl in turn re¬ 
tracts a small plunger, a, against which the lower end of 



42 


Linotypes and Inter types 


' 


the first spaceband in the box has been resting. Upon the 
retreat of the plunger the spacebands in the box move 
forward a short distance until they are stopped by a bank¬ 
ing pin, b, which is located to the right of and lower down 



than the plunger. After the plunger has retracted and 
the bands have moved forward against this banking pin, 
the spaceband lever has started to make its upstroke to 

































Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


43 


normal position again. The releasing pawl which has 
been depressed by the lever is returned to normal by a 
small steel coil spring, b, shown in Fig. 13, and of course 
brings the plunger back into the spaceband box. As the 
spacebands fall downward against the banking pin, b. 
Fig. 12, the first spaceband is directly over the plunger 
hole. The plunger on returning to normal pushes the 
lower end of the spaceband toward the front of machine 
just far enough to clear the banking pin at the back side 
of the box. The second spaceband is prevented from 
being pushed along with the first one through friction 
by an adjustable detaining plate on the front side of the 
box. This detaining plate is adjustable for thin, thick 
and extra thick or “jumbo” spacebands now coming 
universally into use with the advent of display machines. 

The proper adjustment of this detaining plate may 
be accomplished as follows: Depress the spaceband 



key, turn rubber roll shafts slowly by hand and when 
the spaceband keyrod is at its highest stroke set the 
detaining plate so that it will cover the second space- 
band in the box about one-half. This will prevent the 
second spaceband from starting to deliver through fric¬ 
tion with the movement of the first one or from other 
causes. 

It might also be mentioned here that when the space- 























44 


Linotypes and Intertypes 

bands are resting in the box at normal, the first band 
bears against the releasing plunger. The spacebands 
stand at an angle with the lower ends supported by the 
bottom of the box itself, just as though they were stand¬ 



ing. They lean against a guide block at the top and as 
above mentioned, against the releasing plunger at the 
lower end. The sleeves are inactive as a means of sup¬ 
port while in the box. 

The floor of the spaceband box, d, Fig. 10, will need 
an occasional cleaning and polishing, removing any caked 
graphite or other substance as any slight roughness will 
interfere with the free sliding of the bands down the 
incline. 



Fig. 13. 


a 














Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


45 


It will occasionally be necessary to put a drop of oil 
on the releasing pawl pivot, c, Fig. 10, to prevent bind¬ 
ing and rust. 

In the course of time it is possible for the banking 
pin, b, to become worn on the end from bands having 
rounded the end off through friction; two bands will 
then deliver instead of one, and a new banking pin will 
be in order. This banking pin can be removed with a 
pin punch inserted through the releasing pawl slot, first 
removing the pawl at the rear of the box. 

The tension of the releasing pawl spring, b, Fig. 13, 
must be strong enough to push the band clear of the bank¬ 
ing pin as the spaceband keylever rises. 

The intertype spaceband box is removed from the ma¬ 
chine as follows: Shut off the controlling lever, de¬ 
press the elevator transfer slide releasing lever, grasp 
first elevator cam and back machine until the second ele¬ 
vator lever descends. This is necessary so the space- 
band lever pawl will not drop down when the box is re¬ 
moved and permit the spring to become lost. The one 
large screw in the center of the box, on being turned 
out, will allow the box to be lifted out. 

SOME CAUSES FOR SPACEBAND TROUBLES 

Occasionally clean off all accumulated graphite and 
gum from the bottom of the spaceband box. 

When ridges appear in the bottom of the spaceband 
box, dress them out with a fine pillar file. This will not 
be necessary, however, until the roughness interferes 
with the free movement of the spacebands down the in¬ 
cline. 

An escutcheon stud rivet protruding out from the 
body of the band will stop delivery. 

Early intertypes did not have the upper spaceband 
chute plate doweled to the box. It is customary on ma¬ 
chines so fitted to find place at which the plate does its 
work best and then dowel to position. 

The centrebar on intertype spaceband box serves the 
purpose of depressing any sleeves that might remain at 
the top of the bands and assures that the sleeves are all 
at a common height when ready to deliver from the box. 

It is possible for the spaceband lever to become bent 
in such shape that when the lever is at its lowest stroke 
the releasing plunger will not have receded deeply enough 



46 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


in the spaceband box back plate to clear the spaceband, 
and prevent the spaceband falling against the banking 
pin. The lever can be manipulated so it will have a 
deeper stroke. There is no overthrow spring in the 
spaceband keyrod. The spaceband box releasing pawl 
spring takes its place. Do not bend the lever so much 
that it will cause the cam to cut a groove in the rubber 
roll. The end of the keylever which operates the box 
pawl is hardened and the lever can be bent closer to the 
pivot to avoid breakage. 

The releasing plunger must not come so far forward 
into the box when releasing a spaceband so that it will 
bind and hold it against the box front plate. A worn 
plunger pin or sprung pawl can cause this. 

CARE OF SPACEBANDS 

The most important duty in the daily care of a slug¬ 
casting machine lies in properly polishing the spacebands 
once in every eight-hour run. The reasons for polishing 
the bands are two-fold: Preventing an oxidation or 
accumulation of metal from collecting at the casting point 
or side of the spaceband sleeve at a, Fig. 14, and also to 
provide a means of lubrication between the spaceband 
and the sleeve to allow easy justification. 

Before polishing the spacebands, go over them and 
scrape any metal that may be adhering to the casting 
point as explained above, using a piece of thin brass rule. 
Never use a file, sandpaper or emery cloth, steel scraper 
or anything other than the piece of thin brass rule. This 
will preserve the sharp casting edge and the sleeve will 
not become “dished out” or the corner rounded. Use 
Dixon’s dry graphite No. 635, which is ground especially 
for the purpose. Put the graphite on a pine board or in 
a box having a suitable board mounted in the bottom. 
While rubbing them use a straight stroke. A circular 
motion has a tendency to round the corners. 

Never use a board covered with felt. The felt, having 
an elastic surface, will permit the band to sink into it 
and round the corners of the sleeve and spaceband, which 
will pave the way for hair lines in the type and between 
the letters. 

Adhere religiously to the daily polishing of the space- 
bands and machine troubles will be minimized. 

Turning the sleeves of the spacebands the wrong way 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


47 


in a machine can ruin a 
Always have the bands 
facing the right. 

1 V 


I 



of matrices in a few hours, 
h the sleeve or short slide 



Do not put a band on either end of the line without 
a matrix on each side. Never put two spacebands to¬ 
gether in a line. 

Hair lines between the letters of the type are usually 
due to the following causes: Neglecting the daily pol- 



















48 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


ishing of spacebands and the removal of any metal ac¬ 
cumulation at the casting point; setting “short” lines; 
failure to remove defective spacebands or kindred mat¬ 
rices ; metal run at a high temperature with fast operat¬ 
ing. 

Spacebands, after long use on linotypes become rounded 
on the bottom edge of the spaceband sleeve lugs, shown 
at b, Fig. 14, and this sometimes interferes with their de¬ 
livery from the spaceband box by the box pawls. The 
lugs can be squared up again with a fine file, but this 
should not be done very often. The underside of the 
lugs will become quite round before causing this trouble. 
On linotypes, too, if the tops of the lugs are not of about 
the same thickness, the band will give trouble when being 
raised by the spaceband box pawls. 

When bands are returned that have been repaired, 
measure them for the following dimensions: From the 
bottom of the band to the under side of the sleeve lug, 
4% inches; width of the sleeve, .5625 inch: also see 
that the casting edge of the sleeve is slightly thicker 
than the opposite side of the sleeve. This is to insure 
a tight casting edge lockup. 

CAUSES OF BENT SPACEBANDS 

Spacebands can become bent during justification from 
any of the following causes, and should this sort of trou¬ 
ble begin, one or more of them will be found to be the 
source: 

1. Temper out of spaceband, due to immersing the 
band in the metal pot. Sometimes, due to age, the band 
will have lost its stiffness. If it is necessary to plunge 
a band into the metal pot, immediately upon removal 
put the band in oil. 

2. Line justifies without permitting the band to rise 
slightly—result of overset line. 

3. Mold slide set too far forward. This adjustment 
is made by means of the eccentric in mold slide cam 
lever and roll. 

4. Pot does not retreat for the second justification of 
the spacebands. This adjustment is controlled by the 
nuts on the pot lever eyebolt. 

5. First elevator jaw deflected in too far at the top, 
due to accidental or careless handling. Straighten the 
jaw and refit. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


49 


6. Justification lever springs have too much stress. 
The first justification lever spring is the strongest and 
the wire is somewhat heavier than the second justifica¬ 
tion spring. There are nuts on the spring rods under 
the levers at the rear of the machine which are placed 
there for the purpose of regulating the spring tension 
according to the width of the matter being set. Experi¬ 
ence will show you just about how to have the tension 
regulated for average work so that it will not be neces¬ 
sary to change the tension often. 

7. Daily polishing of spacebands neglected. 

8. Mold body screws working out and press against 
the long wedge. 

9. Vise justification block inclined at too much of 
an agle on first justification. This can be remedied by 
making a steel washer % inch thick, $4 inch diameter 
with a inch hole in it, and placing the washer between 
the vise justification bar and the bar brace. The inch 
hole will permit placing the washer on the brace. Re¬ 
move the left-hand bar brace hinge pin and apply. 

10. Metal on face of mold. 

11. Spaceband wider than its sleeve, due to careless 
fitting of band to sleeve. 

12. Burrs or abrasion on face of mold. 

13. Justification bar not evenly surfaced on top due 
to long wear. Lap the top of the bar, but do not grind 
in ridges, as this will roughen the bottom ends of the 
spacebands and result in poor justification. 

14. Locking stud or stud block loose. 

15. Spaceband rounded on bottom of long wedge from 
long use. 

SPACEBANDS IN TRANSFER CHANNEL 

If spacebands remain in the transfer channel after the 
levers have returned to normal, one or more of the fol¬ 
lowing may be causing the trouble: 

Lever pawl spring too strong. This will cause bands 
to swing on 1- and 2-band lines. 

Pawl guide worn down, or missing from the pawl. 

Guide raising pawl too high. Flat underside of guide. 

Buffer adjusting screw protrudes too far and holds the 
levers too far apart when they come together a second 
time to push bands under the pawl. 

Misadjustment of split lever so when levers come to- 



50 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


gether for bands on second stroke, the corner of space- 
band pawl does not drop over first band in line. 

Bent transfer finger. 

Too much play in slide link and pin. 

Spaceband pawl set too far over to right by means of 
spaceband lever turnbuckle. 

Pawl to ride in center of the channel; transfer finger 
not to interfere with pawl when finger and pawl are 
together. 

Put leather strips in bottom of transfer channels to 
help hold the spacebands straight and keep them from 
twisting. 

Good results can be obtained by raising the transfer 
channel spaceband rail. 



VII. 


ASSEMBLERS AND ASSEMBLING 
ELEVATORS 



HE ASSEMBLING mechanism is not such a com¬ 


plicated apparatus, but it is very important that it 


■*“ be kept in the best of condition to minimize trans¬ 
positions and unsatisfactory assemblage. 

The first and most important part of the assembler to 
consider is the star wheel. On the back side of the 
assembler plate and running through it to the front is 
the star wheel shaft. The friction spring on the shaft 
regulates the amount of tension on the star when it is 
stopped by an overset line, or the resistance offered when 
flipping a matrix into the assembler. The amount of 
spring tension can best be explained by saying that the 
star wheel should be able to assemble a quad line rap¬ 
idly and without the wheel hesitating. If the spring 
tension is stronger than this it will throw matrices out 
of the assembler, and will also cause the assembler slide 
to jump ahead more than the thickness of the matrix 
entering the assembling elevator. If the star slows up 
during the quad assemblage the tension of the spring is 
not strong enough. It is a good plan to learn to judge 
the spring tension on the assembler star by thrusting 
your finger against it while in motion and hold sta¬ 
tionary to judge the tension. 

If the little brass disc inside the star wheel shaft 
pinion becomes cut from friction with the pinion, the 
spring tension will be weakened. The disc can be turned 
over in this case. 

The assembler slide brake spring should have enough 
tension to hold the slide, f. Fig. 15, steadily as the 
matrices enter and not permit the slide to jump ahead 
a greater distance than the thickness of the matrix or 
spaceband entering the assembler. 

The star wheel, c, will need renewal when its points 
have worn enough that the matrices will not be flipped to 
a vertical position and inside the assembling elevator gate 
pawls. 


[ 51 ] 



52 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


A great deal depends upon the assembler chute spring 
or finger, but it should be remembered that the chute 
spring is not the sole cause of transpositions. The space 
between the heel of the finger and the assembler chute 
block rail, shown at h, should be about the thickness of 
a capital W matrix of the font being used. The spring 



or finger should be adjusted so that the space represented 
by the line, a, when the star wheel spoke is in horizontal 
position, is 1% inches in length or the length of a 
matrix. There is another adjustment which can be made 
which is a wonderful help in preventing matrices jump¬ 
ing out of the assembler. The chute spring or finger 
can be fitted so that the points will be lower than the 
heel as represented by the line 1-1, instead of being in 
position as at 3-3. Generally an assembler will work 


























































Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


53 


satisfactorily with the points as shown at 3-3. If it is 
necessary to refit the points downward, do not bend the 
finger above the heel, h. Bend the points down from the 
heel to the outside end only. This can be done with a 
punch, and the finger suitably blocked in a vise. The 
points will bend easily. 

It is a great help to have the ends of the finger points 
just to the right of the line as represented at 2-2. 

Shown at b is assembler entrance guide No. 1. This 
guide can be sent so as to retard heavy matrices being 
delivered to the assembler and is often a cause for 
freaky antics on the part of matrices. This guide can 
be bent toward the assembler chute rail the thickness of 
a capital W matrix. 

The assembler belt, g, should not be too loose, and as 
long as the traction is good it will not be necessary to 
tighten it. 

The assembler can be removed by turning out the two 
screws, ii. 

Occasionally give the assembler slide roll, d, a shot 
of coal oil to keep it working freely, then a drop of oil. 

On some machines the spaceband buffer boss will inter¬ 
fere with the bottom of the spacebands during assem¬ 
blage and cause trouble, as soon as the buffer wears suf¬ 
ficiently above the point marked e. 

INTERTYPE POSITIVE ASSEMBLER 

Intertypes are equipped with what has been named the 
positive assembler. It also has oilless bearings and 
some ball bearings. 

The chief distinguishing feature of this assembler is 
that the matrix belt pulley travels under the chute finger 
so that matrices are pulled between the finger, e, Fig. 16, 
and belt, h, in a positive manner instead of depending 
upon momentum and gravity alone, although these two 
elements enter into the delivery of matrices to the star 
wheel in the newer device. 

The chute finger acts to divert the matrix from the 
oblique traveling belt to approximately a vertical posi¬ 
tion to engage the star wheel. The purpose of the chute 
finger, e, in both the old and new types of assemblers 
is identical—to divert the matrices. In the old assembler 
this diversion was made at a position over the chute rails 
which constituted a fixed point and as “dead” as the 



54 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


assembling elevator itself. In this assembler the fixed 
rails have been eliminated and the space taken up by 
the belt which is the moving quantity under the chute 
finger and tends to pull matrices out from under the 
chute finger for delivery to the star wheel. 



In the old type assembler during rapid composition it 
is common for matrices to come down overlapping each 
other on the belt which sometimes clog at the chute 
finger. There is sufficient friction in the belt running 
under the chute finger to pull or separate overlapped 
matrices at that point. 

This design also provides greater flexibility for the 
extremes between thick and thin matrices. That is, the 
older type of assembler required a wider setting between 
the finger and rails for the composition of large fonts 
when changing from a small size to avoid sticking in 

















































































Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


55 


the chute. The belt in the positive assembler will tend 
to pull even the thick matrices from under the chute 
finger. 

In the drawing, Fig. 16, the lower ends of the chute 
block deflecting plate, f, stand just above the assembling 
elevator detaining plates so there will be no tendency to 
cuff the lower lugs of matrices as they enter the ele¬ 
vator. 

The chute finger, e, is adjustable to average position 
by means of the two screws, a, in the finger plate, d. 
The points, e, of the finger should extend out and on a 
vertical line with the assembling elevator gate, but should 
not extend over the gate. Some adjustment of the finger 
can be secured by bending the upper lug of the chute 
finger which banks against the pin, c, normally. Finger 
spring, b, should have just enough tension to firmly pull 
the finger back to its stop pin, c. 

The entire block can be removed by turning out two 
screws, ii, after removing pulley, /. 

As in other assemblers the friction spring at the rear 
of the star wheel, k, should have just enough tension to 
assemble quad lines without stalling or retarding the 
speed of the star wheel. The star wheel shaft should 
at all times have sufficient lubrication to insure smooth 
turning against the stresses of flipping matrices into the 
assembler. In other words, a dry star wheel shaft bear¬ 
ing will rattle or chatter while revolving and throw 
matrices out of the assembler. 

A new star wheel is in order when the points have 
worn off sufficiently that they no longer have power to 
throw matrices inside the assembling elevator pawls and 
in a vertical position. 

Speed and power are transmitted by a train of seven 
pinions at the rear which are noiseless in operation. 

Maintenance of the positive assembler is simple. About 
once a year remove the assembler block, dismantle all 
parts and thoroughly clean, washing the ball races and 
applying fresh vaseline. Do not flush the bronze bear¬ 
ings—wipe them with a dry cloth. Normally the assem¬ 
bler would require no attention. The ball races in the 
three driving bearings—the intermediate bearing and the 
star wheel, are all bronze. The principal bronze bear¬ 
ings are channeled and filled with graphite. Usually the 
star wheel shaft bearing provides sufficient lubrication 




56 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


for the smooth running of the star wheel shaft. Four 
times out of five this is the case. The use of oil is 
not a detriment to this type of bearing and when once 
run in properly it will run for months without further at¬ 
tention. 

Some attention should be given to the adjustment of 
the assembler entrance guide, g, which can be positioned 
so that a cap W matrix will just slide through. 

When the spacebands have worn a depression in the 
spaceband buffer finger, shown at the point, m, a new 
one is in order or a piece can be inset described in Fig. 
57 in the chapter, “Kinks.” A full edge on the finger is 
a wonderful help to satisfactory assemblage. 

A detail of the assembler slide brake is also shown in 
Fig. 16. Attention to several little details will insure 
the proper operation of the slide. The upper and lower 
fibre brake blocks, p and r, should “bite” the assembler 
slide only on their corners, xx, and the spring, n, ad¬ 
justed with just enough tension to hold the slide steady 
during assemblage. The screw in the right end of the 
slide operating lever, s, should be set so that while the 
assembling elevator is raised there will be a little play 
between the adjusting screw and the beveled edge of the 
brake thumb piece, q. If the screw is set to bind against 
the corner of the thumb piece, q, the slide will jiggle, 
and if too far away the brake will not be released from 
the slide enough to allow the slide to return to normal 
when a matrix line is sent to the line delivery carriage. 
When the assembling elevator is raised against its stop 
bar at the line delivery carriage, both fibre brake blocks, 
P and r, should not drag on the slide. It may be neces¬ 
sary to fit the blocks to accomplish this. Do not dress 
off so much that the blocks will be inoperative during 
assemblage of matrices. Sometimes it is necessary to 
dress out the hole, o, in the brake, provided the lower 
block is too high and rubs the bottom of the slide. The 
first duty to perform when the assembler slide fails to 
return on sending in a line of matrices to the line de¬ 
livery carriage is to wipe off the slide with a dry cloth 
and graphite so that it will be dry and polished. 

Watch the assembler slide bell hammer and detent 
and keep a trace of oil on the detent so that the slide 
will not be slowed up when the detent engages the bell 
hammer. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


57 


The assembler slide is intended to move easily for¬ 
ward when matrices enter the assembler, the thickness 
of the matrix entering, without jiggling or chattering 
of the slide. If the star wheel tension spring is too 
strong the slide may be advanced a greater distance than 
the thickness of the matrix delivered. The brake spring 
n, should have just enough tension to hold the slide 
steadily and still not be so weak as to permit the slide 
to chatter. 

Occasionally lubricate the slide roll, /. Also some at¬ 
tention with a small amount of oil should be given to the 
little roll under the right-hand slide gib. 

TRANSPOSITIONS 

The following can cause matrix and spaceband trans¬ 
positions. The list is by no means complete, but with 
a little thought, the trouble can be located. 

Rubber rolls worn smooth (polished) where the cams 
rotate. 

Rubber rolls that have become hardened from age. 
No longer resilient. 

Teeth or milled edge of keyboard cam rounded, touch 
up with file. 

Dry or rusty rubber roll shaft bearings. 

Star friction spring tension weak on end of rubber 
roll shaft. 

Oily or dirty magazine and matrices. 

Cold temperature of room. 

Matrices striking top of small assembler chute cover 
on the way to assembler. 

Chute finger or spring out of adjustment. 

Star wheel worn down, or friction spring tension weak. 

Assembler slide brake spring too weak. 

Loose keyboard belt. 

Star wheel friction spring tension too strong. 

Spaceband buffer worn down allowing bottom ends of 
spacebands to drag on the buffer boss, on some ma¬ 
chines. 

Assembler slide return spring too strong. 

Dry cam pivot. 

Jerky operating by the person operating the machine. 

To determine the cause of transpositions, the trouble 
can be worked out by analysis. Suppose the lower case 
“n” transposes. The trouble no doubt would be found in 





58 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


the cam. If the transpositions are general, that is, no 
certain letter slowing up, the trouble may be found in 
the rubber rolls or the assembler. 

ASSEMBLING ELEVATORS 

The assembling elevator front and back plates are held 
together by one large screw at the bottom. There are 
two stout dowels on either side. Strong arm methods 
sometimes cause these plates to become spread at the 
top so that the assembling rails have too great a dis¬ 
tance between them. To determine if the distance is cor¬ 
rect insert a gauge shown at c, Fig. 17, between the two 
castings. Maybe the screw is not turned up as tight as 
should be, the dowels have been known to become bent 
—one or both of them. When using the gauge open the 
gate and test the space between the plates. It will be no¬ 
ticed that the vertical side of the front rail above the 
fibre buffer is tapered gradually to the left. Of course 
the gauge cannot be used here. This taper is present to 
permit matrices to assemble easily and without friction 
against the lower lugs. The gauge can then be used to 
determine whether or not the gate is correctly positioned 
in relation to the back wall of the back plate and top 
rail, after first testing the distance between the plates. 

The assembling elevator front and back pawls should 
have enough tension on their springs to just throw them 
lightly to their stops after a matrix has passed between. 

The assembling elevator gate spring roll and its stud 
should be oiled with a tiny bit of oil every two weeks. 
In time the stud and roll will have become worn to such 
an extent that there will be lost motion and the gate 
will not be held snugly and without wobble against the 
stop pins, which will call for renewal of the stud and 
roll. The same thing applies to the assembling elevator 
gate hinge rod which will need occasional renewal. 

Renew the assembling elevator front rail fibre buffer 
frequently. In an emergency it can be turned upside 
down and cut off level with the iron rail. 

When a line is sent up to the line delivery carriage the 
stroke of the assembling elevator is limited by the stop 
bar. When the elevator banks against it the latch or 
hook catches over a suitable lug back of the stop bar and 
holds the assembling elevator in position until the line 
has advanced into the delivery channel and the trailer 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


59 


of the line delivery carriage has released the hook, when 
the elevator can be lowered to normal position again. 
This device is intended to relieve the operator from the 
drudgery of manually holding the assembling elevator 
up, and to positively position and hold it in line with the 
delivery channel grooves so that matrices and spacebands 
will not be chafed which would soon wear them out. If 
the latch does not hold the elevator up until after the 
matrix line has entered the delivery channel, possibly the 
corners of the latch and the lug on the back side of the 
stop bar have become rounded. If the parts cannot be 
squared up with a file or the lug on the stop bar tapped 
with a hammer and punch, a little higher, renewal will be 
in order. 

LINOTYPE DELIVERY CHANNEL ALIGNING 
PIECE 

When an auxiliary positioned line of matrices is raised 
by the assembling elevator for passage through the de¬ 
livery channel a small finger on the left side of the as¬ 
sembling elevator duplex rail raises, an aligning piece on 
the front delivery channel rail. This piece will depress 
and bring to a common level any matrices that may shake 
or jump up due to the elevator having been raised rather 
abruptly by the operator and will prevent the end of the 
delivery channel rails under the aligning piece scarring or 
chafing the lugs of matrices so as to preserve their let¬ 
ter alignment on the slugs. This is an important part 
of the machine and it should be kept in good working 
order. 

INTERTYPE DUPLEX RAIL SWITCH AND 
ASSEMBLING ELEVATOR LATCH 
RELEASE 

The intertype assembling elevator is equipped with a 
switch mounted on the duplex rail cap, left side, to align 
the matrices at one common level when passing from the 
assembling elevator to the delivery channel rails or 
grooves. If the elevator is raised rather quickly by the 
operator some of the matrices are inclined to jump up, 
and the function of this switch is to force them to a 
straight line again so the ends of the delivery channel 
rails won’t slur the lower lugs of matrices and inter- 



60 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


fere with their letter-aligning qualities on the finished 
slug. 

The screw in the switch should be adjusted so as to 
permit matrices to pass freely and not bind them. 

In case the operator sends in a line having an in¬ 
verted matrix the assembling elevator can be lowered 
again by pressing on the assembling elevator latch re¬ 
leasing rod at the bottom of the assembling elevator. 
The latch is rather hard to release at times and this rod 
simplifies the process. 





VIII 


LINE DELIVERY CARRIAGE 

HE LINE delivery carriage requires attention for 
certain things, as various little troubles can take 



place should it not be in the proper working con¬ 
dition. 

Normally the line delivery carriage should start rap¬ 
idly when a line of matrices is sent in. As it nears the 
delivery channel it should slow down so as to enter the 
channel with a cushion stroke, especially on a waiting 
line. From right side of the delivery channel to its ex¬ 
treme stroke in the first elevator jaws it should move 
steadily. The important part of the stroke to the left 
is that the line delivery carriage should make a very 
quick delivery from the raised assembling elevator so 
as not to tire the operator or retard his speed of opera¬ 
tion. At the same time the carriage should not work so 
rapidly as to jar or jerk and cause any of the various 
screws to work loose, which they surely will do unless 
the stroke is properly softened. The carriage link screw 
especially has a habit of working loose in case the action 
of the line delivery is too jerky. 

The correct action of the carriage depends to a great 
extent upon the condition of the piston packing or leather. 
Oil should be applied to the inside of the pump occasion¬ 
ally so that the leather will be lubricated and prevent the 
leather drying up, permitting air to escape from between 
the leather and the walls of the cylinder. The leather 
when old can sometimes be spread again by turning it 
upside down and shaping it over. If the leather is kept 
in a condition where it will fill out the space between the 
cylinder head and the walls of the cylinder no trouble 
will be encountered in securing a rapid start of the car¬ 
riage and ability to regulate the adjusting vent at the 
top of the cylinder so that the carriage will slow up or 
cushion itself when entering the delivery channels. 

Practically all of the different devices used in the de¬ 
velopment of the line delivery carriage comprehended an 
arrangement so that the long or left-hand finger would 
instantly come against the left-hand side of the matrix 


[ 61 ] 


62 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


line while the carriage makes its stroke to the left. The 
idea of the long finger coming against the line is obvious 
—that of keeping the matrix line from squabbling, twist¬ 
ing or falling out on the floor. If the operator is setting 
twelve ems, naturally he will not fill every line exactly 
with twelve ems of matrices and spacebands. Any line 
might be eleven ems, more or less. When the line is sent 
in, the left-hand finger should have crowded against the 
end of the matrix line in order to keep the matrices 
straight and not allow them to turn or twist. If the 
operating bar of the carriage is dry or binds and does 
not slide freely, the finger will not close in against the 
matrix line. Of course, it should be borne in mind that 
if an 8-em line is sent in when the carriage is set for 
12 ems, that it should not be expected that the finger will 
close in successfully. Occasionally a trace of oil applied 
to the adjusting rod will help the left-hand finger close 
in against the matrix line when it is sent over to the 
first elevator. 

Lubricate the line delivery carriage groove or track 
with dry graphite. A mixture of oil and graphite will 
not work at all. Before applying the graphite, clean out 
all trace of oil. Use the magazine brush having some 
graphite applied to the bristles and polish both upper and 
lower parts of the track. 

Do not forget to occasionally oil the link bearings back 
of the face plate. A small drop on each bearing will do. 

On old-style linotypes, cam No. 10 could slip because 
the small strip of steel or the delivery and elevator cam 
locating piece was not applied to the cam shaft. Owing 
to the absence of this piece cam No. 10 would occasion¬ 
ally slip when its set screw worked loose. When loose 
on the shaft the delivery and transfer levers would not 
be returned to proper position. 

Sometimes, due to grease on the cam surface, the de¬ 
livery lever roll will wear a flat side, so much so as to 
interfere with returning the carriage to normal position 
far enough to come past the catch above the assembling 
elevator and under the spaceband box. 

The line delivery carriage when making its extreme 
stroke to the left, should come 13/32 of an inch inside 
the first elevator jaws. Measure from the right-hand 
side of the line delivery short finger to the right-hand 
side of the first elevator jaws. This adjustment is made 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


63 


with the screw in the left-hand end of the face plate 
against which the line delivery carriage banks. 

In case of accident there is a split lever on the line 
delivery carriage at the rear of the machine, to prevent 
the levers breaking, also to facilitate easy adjustment 
should the levers slip. 

To make the return stroke adjustment and secure a 
satisfactory setting proceed as follows: Tie up the 
spaceband lever pawl with cord, remove the spaceband 
box, pull out the pot pump plunger pin, send the empty 
carriage over in the regular way and as the machine 
revolves watch how far the carriage returns past the 
delivery pawl or catch. It should travel past about 1 /16 
of an inch. To make the actual adjustment, let the ma¬ 
chine stand at normal, push in controlling lever. Go 
around to the back of the machine and loosen the two 
screws in the split lever. If the carriage does not return 
far enough to be held in position after making its return 
stroke, the split lever and roller should be tapped slightly 
toward the cam. If the carriage returns too great a 
distance, tap the roller arm away from the cam. Run 
the machine around again and watch the return stroke 
of the delivery slide. A few trials will enable you to 
make the adjustment correctly. The slide should not 
return so great a distance as to bear hard enough against 
the spaceband box chute to move it out. 



IX. 


FIRST ELEVATOR 


T HIS is one part of the composing machine that re¬ 
ceives severe usage and it is imperative that it be 
kept in reasonably good condition. Considerable 
work is required to produce it. The most vulnerable part 
of this head is the back jaw, which is rather thin in con¬ 
struction at the receiving and discharging end on the sup¬ 
porting rail for the matrices. This jaw has been rede¬ 
signed as the versatility and expansion of range of work 
on the machine increased from time to time. 

A jaw that has been accidentally bent or kinked can 
nearly always be put in workable shape again if manipu¬ 
lated properly. The first part of this jaw to show wear 
is the lower matrix lip just under the recess cut out 
for the spring pawl. About the only remedy for a worn 
place here is to swell the lip or rail with three center 
punch drives and dress down smooth—that is, if the bal¬ 




ance of the jaw warrants it. I have seen jaws repaired 
with a piece inset and brazed with silver solder which 
ran indefinitely and gave satisfactory service. However, 
there are several places where these jaws can be repaired 
[ 64 ] 
























Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


65 


at a reasonable figure. A greater number of jaws are 
ruined from accidental causes than from real wear. 

A snap gauge and straight edge are useful in refitting 
a bent first elevator back jaw. One can be made from 
Y%" steel having dimensions as shown at b. Fig. 17. The 
other gauges, a, c and d, are explained elsewhere in this 
book. 

It will be noticed that there is Oil" difference between 
the two sections. When inserted in the jaws the gauge 
will be stopped by the shoulder bearing on the matrix 
aligning rail in the front jaw. If the above gauge be 
made from thick stock (•>£") it will be of great assist¬ 
ance in taking the pressure of a hand vise applied to the 
jaws on the machine—that is, use the gauge as a sort 
of fulcrum. A jaw can sometimes be straightened with¬ 
out removing from the machine. 

It is best, however, to try to straighten a bent jaw 
in a strong vise, using smooth metal blocks. That is, 
use three blocks or pieces of brass, two on the back jaw 
of the bench vise and one on the front jaw of the bench 
vise. Place the bent first elevator jaw between and turn 
upon the vise handle until the kink has been straightened 
out, as illustrated in Fig. 53. 

The first elevator separating block should always be 
returned to place between the front and back jaws as 
originally fitted. A bent or kinked jaw can nearly al¬ 
ways be placed in serviceable shape again by the use of 
small blocks and a strong vise, as explained above. The 
inside of the jaw measuring vertically must be at right 
angles to the front jaw—this includes that part above 
the spaceband aligning groove, as well as the matrix 
aligning rail. If the upper inside part of the back jaw 
is too close to the front jaw it will interfere with space- 
band justification. 

Keep the first elevator slide gibs adjusted to the slide 
so as to compel the first elevator to work closely to the 
transfer channels and not scrape or bind them. Do not 
permit too much play; more than .005" frequently causes 
trouble. 

An aggravating trouble often experienced by machin¬ 
ists occurs at the second elevator transfer on 14-point 
matrices. This trouble is principally with the descend¬ 
ers, such as j, p, q, y, and some full face figures. These 
matrices will not drop from auxiliary to normal position 



66 


Linotypes and Inter types 


as the duplex rail in the first elevator is withdrawn at 
the transfer cap. There is so little shoulder or casting 
edge blank that the sharp corner, top of the normal 
punching, shown at a, Fig. 18, will catch or ride on the 
bottom rail of the back jaw, c, Fig. 18, and throw the 
lower end of these matrices out and away from the align¬ 
ing rail on the front jaw. The combination teeth im¬ 
pinge against the bevel of the intermediate bar and pre¬ 
vent the first elevator rising high enough to transfer the 
line. This can be overcome by using a small pillar file 
and rounding the top corner of the normal punching. 
This will cause a slight overhang to be cast on the rib 
side of slug, which will be readily removed by the trim¬ 
ming knife, in case there should be an overhang. This 
trouble has been known to take place on new machines 
where the first elevator back jaw was apparently in per¬ 
fect shape. In some of the 14-point matrices the de¬ 
scender punchings are so long that there is little or no 
support to guide a matrix when dropping from auxiliary 
to normal position. In some cases straightening the 
back jaw will give relief. 

LINOTYPE FIRST ELEVATOR JAWS 

A matrix when in the first elevator head and sup¬ 
ported by its upper lugs or ears hangs normally on the 
adjusting bar in the front jaw and the aligning rail which 
is a part of the back jaw. Whether a matrix is hanging 
squarely in the vise jaws or not can be easily determined 
by the aid of a small square. This is an important mat¬ 
ter, for casting reasons, and just as important in the 
process of transferring from the first to second elevators 

The duplex rail banking pins can be inspected at this 
time to see that they do not permit the back edge of the 
duplex rail to extend beyond the matrix aligning rail. 
If the duplex rail does project too far it will tilt the 
bottom of a matrix out and produce the same effect as 
a back jaw which is bent upwards. 

The linotype duplex rail used to have only two guide 
lugs or extension slides. Two more have been added, 
stiffening the rail so as to stand a severe strain, in case 
of accident, without bending. 

The duplex rail measures .1875" thick. 

The duplex rail levers (linotype) if badly worn at the 
top, where they have contact with operating blocks 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism, 


67 


(D-583), will either need replacing or bending. Place 
the lever in a vise and with a hammer and punch bend the 
lever out. Grind off the top of the lever at the same 
bevel in order to allow clearance between it and the 
operating block with which it comes in contact, so that 



in the process of recasting auxiliary position lines the 
levers will not drop matrices to normal or roman posi¬ 
tion. The wear that takes place from constant friction 
with the operating blocks is shown at b, Fig. 18, and 
can be minimized by keeping the blocks lubricated with 
a trace of oil regularly. It seems that the common duty 
of lubrication is neglected in some places. 

If trouble is experienced with matrices twisting in the 
first elevator jaws, resulting in a spilled line at transfer 
point, see that the spring pawls, (E-355, E-1262 lino¬ 
type only), extend out just far enough to hold a matrix 
securely in auxiliary position. If these pawls protrude 
too far they will cause unnecessary friction and wear 
matrices. This should be watched when applying a new 
pawl, and the pawl bent accordingly. An appreciated 





























68 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


improvement by the linotype company is the forked front 
pawl. This does away with the necessity of removing 
the screws, E-356, from the front jaw, which was a 
rather difficult job in the old-style pawl unless you hap¬ 
pen to be equipped with a screw starter to hold the two 
screws. Merely loosen the two little screws and slide 
the old pawl out and slip in the new one. 

Another improvement on the linotype consists of the 
line stop clamp in the first elevator jaws being made 
with a coil spring slipped over the screw part of the 
clamp, a 6-48 thread cut on the stem, and the spring 
having a bearing against a screw slotted nut. It is neces¬ 
sary for the line stop to hold the left-hand matrix up¬ 
right and the line stop with this device in place can 
be freely shifted by the operator, the clamp holding it in 
place. 


INTERTYPE FIRST ELEVATOR JAWS 

The intertype first elevator jaws (or head) assembled, 
performs the same duties as the linotype device, but with 
a somewhat different mechanism. There are no spring 
pawls in the jaws to retain the matrices while the first 
elevator is in motion. As a substitute for these spring 
pawls a retaining rod is employed. This rod is mounted 
on the slide casting by means of two eye screws and 
brackets, and two lugs extending out are worked from 
a small cam on the upper right-hand first elevator slide 
gib, U-559. The retaining rod itself passes through a 
hole in the front elevator jaw and almost to the back 
jaw. It is held in this position by a coil spring, getting a 
horizontal action from a vertical position. When the 
first elevator is about to enter the vise jaws, just coming 
to transfer position, or again at normal the rod is re¬ 
tracted so as to permit passage in or out of the jaws. 
This excepts the casting position. It is necessary for 
the rod to retract here on account of the right-hand vise 
jaw’s height. The cam, U-404, does not act on the rod’s 
lugs as the elevator ascends, the lugs raising the cam. 
As the slide is about to seat at the second elevator trans¬ 
fer the bottom lug engages a fixed projection under the 
cam, thus withdrawing the rod to allow the line to be 
shifted out of the first elevator jaws. 

In place of the usual spring jaw pawls on the inter¬ 
type will be found what is called a first elevator jaw 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


69 


closing pin. This pin will not always keep the right- 
hand matrix of a line in a vertical position while on the 
way to transfer after the cast. In this case remove the 
pin, U-461, and bend the end slightly to the left and 



replace, as shown in Fig. 19 at a. In the drawing the 
bend is exaggerated so as to show just where to bend 
the pin. 

Intertype first elevator jaws are now fitted with a 
spring and detent in the front and back jaws to retain 
the matrices while traveling up and down in the slideways. 
The detent consists of a flat spring which holds a small 
triangular shaped block or detent in a recess cut out in 
the jaw. One comer of the detent protrudes through far 
enough to offer spring resistance to the right-hand mat¬ 
rix, but not strong enough to damage matrices while 
entering or passing out from the jaws. This is shown 
at c, Fig. 19. The block, d, when in position offers a 
rolling resistance to matrices passing by. 

On those early intertypes equipped with the retaining 
rod, a, Fig. 19, it is a good idea to apply the new style 
detent to the back jaw, to work in combination with the 
retaining rod in the front jaw. 

On the intertype there is a finger or bar V-331, which 
fits into a corresponding recess cut in the front elevator 
jaw, called the duplex rail operating bar. This bar is 
shown at b, Fig. 19. The bar serves two purposes—it 





































70 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


retracts the duplex rail U-829 so as to permit the line of 
matrices to fall from auxiliary to normal or roman posi¬ 
tion so the transfer can take place. It also positions 
the elevator jaw so that the first elevator head will come 
up to an exact place each time. 

The duplex rail in the first elevator on early models 
is held in normal position by means of a spring and a 
plunger embedded in the front jaw. Late intertype jaws 
are equipped with a coil spring that engages a hook in 
the end of the duplex rail, left-hand end, near the sep¬ 
arating block. This device is easily applied to replace the 
old-style duplex rail spring and plunger. 

As the first elevator comes to transfer position a finger 
or bar, illustrated at b, Fig. 19, on the first elevator slide 
guide, engages the duplex rail and retracts it at an angle 
of 45 degrees, differing from the linotype’s straight ac¬ 
tion, so the matrices in auxiliary position will drop down 
to normal. The duplex rail is retracted endwise on a 
slant of about 45 degrees, two slides being a part of the 
rail fitting into recesses in the front jaw. As the ele¬ 
vator descends the rail is pushed back to normal position 
again as the right-hand end engages first elevator duplex 
rail return plate, a tapered and hardened shoe affixed to 
the end of the front transfer channel plate which is di¬ 
rectly in the path of the first elevator. The duplex rail, 
like the linotype rail, is materially stiffened by having 
five lugs or extensions working in the front jaw proper. 

Occasionally polish the rail and cap with dry graphite 
after cleaning to avoid chugging. At transfer this rail 
must work freely. Also keep a small amount of oil on 
the bar where it engages the first elevator duplex rail at 
transfer. 

HOW ARE MATRICES ALIGNED? 

The etching shown below will serve to illustrate the 
alignment of matrices in both normal and auxiliary po¬ 
sition, and should be clearly understood in order that 
questions arising as to the various causes of trouble can 
be traced intelligently. 

The first part of the illustration, Fig. 20, shows a 
matrix in normal position in the first elevator jaws and 
the mold advanced for casting lockup. In normal posi¬ 
tion there are three points of support for alignment of 
the matrix. The top of the adjusting bar, g, supports 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


71 


the upper front lug shown at a; the rail of the back first 
elevator jaw supports the upper back lug, at b; the mat¬ 
rix being thus suspended is pulled upwards and the lower 
back lug in the aligning rail recess or groove of the 
mold determines the vertical position of the matrix, 
shown at c. The adjusting bar, g, takes the strain of 



the thrust of the mold against the matrix, aligning the 
matrix for the height-to-paper position. 

The auxiliary position of the matrix has two points of 
alignment. The duplex rail, f, supports the lower front 
lug of the matrix, shown at d, and raises it until the 
lower back lug strikes the underside of the groove in 
the mold at e. As in normal position, the adjusting bar, 
g, takes the strain of the lockup and aligns the matrix 
for type high. 

It is evident that every care and precaution be taken 
to preserve the original dimensions of the matrix lugs 
so that good alignment of the letters can be obtained as 
long as possible. 

If the lower front lug of the matrix is sheared off at 
the bottom the duplex rail in the first elevator front 
jaw cannot raise the matrix as high as the other mat¬ 
rices, when casting from a line of matrices in auxiliary 
position. 

































































72 


Linotypes and Inter types 


FIRST ELEVATOR FILLING PIECE OR 
“FLOPPER” 

The first elevator slide filling piece, or “flopper,” is a 
valuable attachment. It is .220" thick. It positions the 
matrix line to cast from auxiliary (black face or italic), 
punching with normal (roman) position in the first ele¬ 
vator jaws. 

In other words, the filling piece takes up the space 
between the two aligning grooves in the mold so that 
while the matrix line is in normal position in the first 
elevator the filling piece raises the elevator high enough 
to present the matrix line to the auxiliary groove in the 
mold face. 

It is explained above that the auxiliary characters in 
matrices are aligned from the auxiliary position in the 
first elevator by the duplex rail in the first elevator push¬ 
ing up against the under side of the lower front matrix 
lugs. It will be seen that much better letter alignment 
can be secured with the filling piece, especially in the 
case of an old font of matrices, the lower front lugs of 
which are worn. 

If the operator should send over a line from the as¬ 
sembling elevator in auxiliary position, and also have 
the filling piece on the vise cap in position, the matrix 
line will be raised high enough to present the lower back 
lugs of the matrices just below the mold cell. This will 
injure the matrices by mashing the back lugs, shown at 
“g" Fig. 6, and may cause a bad front metal squirt. 

Needless to say also that the same result will obtain 
if a matrix line is sent in partly normal and partly aux¬ 
iliary position. 

LETTERS ADJACENT TO SPACEBANDS 
CHAFED ON SIDES 

Letters adjacent to spacebands being chafed on their 
sides can be caused by one of several abnormalities in 
the casting lockup of the first elevator and mold. 

Too much space between first elevator banking screw 
and vise cap. There should be 1 /64" here during the 
cast. 

Left-hand floating locking stud block having a vertical 
as well as lateral movement. This block should only 
have a horizontal motion. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


73 


The adjusting screw for left-hand side of mold slide 
under mold disk guide, if too far away from guide when 
disc is pulling slug away from matrix line may be a 
contributing cause. 

On linotypes only, a cause for letters chafing on sides 
next to spacebands lies in the pump stop lever spring 
tension being too strong. The injury to letters is caused 
as follows: After the cast the vise closing wedge un¬ 
locks or descends and releases the left-hand vise jaw 
so the justified matrix line will not pull up hard when 



the first elevator rises to go to transfer position. The 
pressure of the mold against the matrix line is also re¬ 
leased as the mold disk retreats. If the pump stop lever 
spring is too strong it will cause the lever to bear against 
and push the right-hand vise jaw against the matrix 
line, shoving the matrices and spacebands to the left 
until they bank against the left-hand jaw. Just at this 
instant the slug is pulling away from the matrix line 
with the excess pressure of the pump stop lever spring 
causing the spacebands to chafe the adjacent letters on 
one side. To determine if this is the cause, cast several 
slugs from an assembled line of matrices and spacebands 
similar to the ones that have the injured letters on the 
face of the slug. Hold the pump stop lever open. If 
the slugs have an improved appearance the remedy is 
obvious—the spring should be weakened. 

If the mold and vise do not lock parallel with each 
other the sides of letters adjacent to spacebands will have 
a distorted appearance, just as though they had been 
scraped with a knife. This is especially noticeable on 
lower case “e,” “o,” “d,” or any of the round-bodied let¬ 
ters, shown at a, Fig. 21. 

This is usually caused by the mold disk not working 








74 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


parallel with the vise cap. That is, the mold disk ap¬ 
parently is tight against the matrix line on one end and 
not so close to it at the other end when the pot pressure 
is relieved. The result of such a condition is that after 
a slug is cast, the mold disk in moving back from the 
matrix line resumes its position at an angle to the line 
of matrices in the first elevator, which being held snugly 
between the vise jaws have no flexibility sidewise. In 
moving back at this angle, the letters on the slug next 
to the spacebands are dragged against the corners of the 
spacebands. 

The remedy is to use a washer back of the shoulder 
of one of the vise locking studs until the vise and the 
mold are parallel. Usually the left-hand stud is the of¬ 
fender. Use a brass washer or several of them (the 
companies furnish these) about 1/32" in thickness. Un¬ 
der certain conditions the washer need not be this thick¬ 
ness. It may be necessary to adjust the pot slightly, also 
the trimming knives after applying the washer. 


DESCENDER LETTERS DISTORTED AT 


BOTTOM 


On old machines, due to the weight of the first eleva¬ 
tor causing matrices to hang momentarily on the slug 
line during break-away after the cast, descender matrices 
will be chafed or distorted on the lower ends, usually 
caused by a worn first elevator cam where it should 
support the weight of the first elevator while the mold 
disk is backing off from the matrix line, or to lost mo¬ 
tion and wear in the connecting link parts. This is dis¬ 
tinguished from the letters being chafed on their sides 


The q ! 1 e ’ ’ 1 g 



a 


Fig. 22. 


(which is caused by angular retreat of mold slide to 
matrix line), because it is a horizontal and vertical 
action. 

Descender matrices can be injured as mentioned above 
on machines that have been used a long time or from 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


75 


careless misadjustment of the vise locking apparatus, 
shown at a, Fig. 22. 

There is a definite mode of procedure to follow when 
looking for the cause of this trouble, and the cause de¬ 
termined by the process of elimination. 

First, see that the mold disk locking studs and stud 
blocks are not badly worn; if so, replace all four studs 
and apply the two new stud blocks. 

Sometimes the left-hand floating locking stud block 
in the vise frame will be lose from having been pounded 
by the stud in the mold disk when the disk thrusts for¬ 
ward during casting and ejecting lockups, giving a ver¬ 
tical looseness. There should only be a slight horizontal 
movement of the left-hand stud block. If the vertical 
movement is present, tighten the parts or replace the 
stud block or bushing if badly worn, both right- and left- 
hand. 

Next see if the first elevator down-stroke or banking 
screw is properly set. Open vise jaws to 30 ems, send 
in a 30-em line of matrices without spacebands, having 
four or five new pi matrices on each extreme end of the 
line. The new pi matrices are important, for the reason 
that if worn lower case letters are used the adjustment 
will be too close if a new set of matrices are used in 
the machine or new matrices are used to sort a worn 
font. 

Run machine ahead and stop it just before the cast. 
At this point the compression of the spring in the first 
elevator connecting link by the auxiliary cam should 
hold up the first elevator so that there will be a space of 
about 1 /64" between the vise cap and bottom of the 
adjusting screw in the first elevator head. If the space 
between the screw and vise cap is too great the matrix 
line will bear down and chafe the descender letters of 
the slug being withdrawn after the cast. 

The two instances explained above will usually suffice 
to end chafed descender letters. 

In extreme cases on worn machines it will be neces¬ 
sary to proceed further to cure the trouble 

Replace first elevator link eyebolts, upper and lower, 
and pins, if the eyebolt holes are elliptical in shape and 
the pins if smaller diameter than the original stock where 
the eyebolt works. 

Then determine if it will be necessary to build up the 



76 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


first elevator or No. 1 cam at the place in its periphery 
where it should continue to hold up the matrix line so 
it won’t bear down or drag on the type while the mold 
disk is pulling slug away from the matrices after the 
cast. This can be tested by wrapping ordinary friction 
tape around the cam at the place where the roller bears 
while the casting mechanism is unlocking—a space of 
about two or three inches. After wrapping the tape 
around the cam at the place indicated, cast a few lines 
with “gjpy” letters mixed in with an ordinary line of 
type and if the chafing is absent a permanent patch of 
thin material can then be applied to the cam after re¬ 
moving the tape. Drill, tap and countersink for two 
flat-head screws to hold the two-inch patch in place. 
Fade away the ends of the patch to conform as much as 
possible to the contour of the cam so there will be no 
abrupt movement of the first elevator lever cam roll. 

TRIMMING KNIVES CUTTING OFF TOPS 
OF CAPITALS 

If the first elevator compression device does not hold 
up the line of matrices during justifying process, espe¬ 
cially when the two-letter attachment or “flopper” is be¬ 
ing used, it indicates a lack of compression between the 
first elevator cam and the line of matrices. This can 
also be indicated when the first elevator rises and falls 
with the stress of the spaceband justification springs. 
When the first elevator rises for matrix alignment it 
should “stay put” until after the mold disk has retreated 
after the cast. 

There is also a definite mode of procedure to be fol¬ 
lowed in correcting this trouble, and it should be fol¬ 
lowed out. First, make sure the left-hand knife is not 
set to trim the slug too close. Next, see that the lock¬ 
ing studs and locking stud blocks are in good condition, 
especially the left-hand stud block in the vise frame. Next 
adjust the downstroke of the first elevator on the vise 
cap with a 30-em line of matrices, having no spacebands, 
and four or five new pi matrices on either end of the 
the line, so there will be 1 /64" space between the vise 
cap and the bottom of the adjusting screw during the 
cast—that is, you should be able to move the first eleva¬ 
tor up and down vertically 1 /64". 

If the downstroke adjustment is in good order, as also 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


77 


the locking studs and stud blocks, then it is more than 
likely that the first elevator lever roll should be brought 
closer to the cam. There may be any one of several 
reasons for lack of compression here—misadjustment of 
the auxiliary lever adjusting screw, and a great amount 
of lost motion due to worn parts, especially in the con¬ 
necting link. 

The mold keeper plate on linotypes may be out of po¬ 
sition, and this should be determined before changing 
any adjustments. The spring inside of the connecting 
link casing may be cracked or weak. These two things 
may be improbable but possible causes. 

To find if the auxiliary lever adjustment is out of or¬ 
der proceed as follows: 

Remove the first elevator conecting link from the ma¬ 
chine and adjust the plain eyebolt, (upper one in the lino¬ 
type and lower on the the intertype), until there is a dis¬ 
tance of 94" between the edge of the hole nearest the 
link cap or bushing and the cap itself. Turn the link 
around and adjust the other eyebolt, (the one with the 
flat tongue spring fastened to it) and turn it around until 
there is a space of 13/16" between the edge of the hole 
nearest the link casing and the top of the link cap or 
bushing (the one with the notches in the edge). 

Return the link to the machine just as you have ad¬ 
justed it. Run machine ahead until the first elevator 
banks on the vise cap. Now go around to the side of the 
machine near the first elevator or No. 1 cam. With the 
first elevator on the vise cap note how much play there 
is between the lever roll and the cam. At this point 
the roll should be entirely free of the cam, so as not 
to interfere with the weight of the first elevator resting 
entirely on the vise cap. 

If necessary adjust the auxiliary lever adjusting screw 
until the space between the lever roll and the cam is not 
greater than 1 /16"—the roll can be a little closer. Then 
tighten the jam nut for the adjusting screw and the con¬ 
necting screw that holds the two levers together. 

To complete the above adjustment after the machine 
comes to normal position, turn the connecting link in 
front of the machine at the bottom of the first elevator 
slide until the grooves in the first elevator jaw are 
slightly lower than the grooves in the delivery channel 
while the machine is in normal position. 




78 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


It is now in order to cast a long slug with capital 
letters on it. If the left-hand knife still shears off the 
tops of the capital letters it will be necessary to secure 
more compression during lockup so that the matrices will 
be held solidly against the banking groove in the mold 
during casting. 

The idea of going thru the above procedure is to make 
sure that all misadjustments may be eliminated as a pos¬ 
sible cause of this trouble before cutting down a cam. 

It is likely after you have made the adjustment for 
the auxiliary lever the compression has again become 
weak after adjusting the connecting link to align the 
grooves in the first elevator jaws and the delivery chan¬ 
nel. 

At first thought it will appear after adjusting the 
auxiliary lever to secure the 1 /16" space between the 
first elevator lever roll and depression in the cam that 
the grooves in the elevator jaws and the delivery chan¬ 
nel can again be aligned by means of the connecting link. 
Setting the link, however, will bring the compression, 
or rather lack of it, back to the starting point. 

Again run the machine ahead and push in the con¬ 
trolling lever when the first elevator rests on the vise 
cap. Go around to the first elevator cam and note how 
much space there is between the lever cam roll and the 
cam, when the roller is directly over the depression in 
the cam between the place where the cam has brought 
the elevator down on the vise cap and the cam crown 
where the first elevator is raised for matrix alignment or 
compression. 

There should normally be not greater than 1 /16" be¬ 
tween the roller and the cam in this position. 

Adjust the auxiliary lever adjusting screw until the 
1 /16" space is obtained. Run the machine ahead to nor¬ 
mal again and if the grooves in the first elevator jaw 
and the delivery channel do not align it will be neces¬ 
sary to fade away the cam surface with a file along the 
edge of the cam where the roller travels while the first 
elevator is returning to normal position and the corner 
of the cam where roller rests while the machine is in 
normal position. When filing this cam surface main¬ 
tain a true arc with the centre of the cam shaft so that 
the first elevator will not dance and interfere with the 
incoming line delivery on waiting lines. The cam can be 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


79 


scribed with dividers before starting filing. The amount 
to be taken off will depend upon how weak the compres¬ 
sion is in the casting lockup. Cut off a little of the cam 
stock at a time with the file until the grooves in the first 
elevator jaws align with those in the delivery channel. 



X. 


VISE AUTOMATIC 


HE vise automatic is a mechanical substitute for 



stopping the machine manually, in case of accident 


or when the operator sends in an overset line. Its 
action from the connecting rod in front of the machine 
is the same as though the operator pushed the controlling 
lever in by hand. 

If the first elevator slide does not come fully down to 
its seat in the vise cap the vise automatic stops the ma¬ 
chine to prevent accident. 

If the vise automatic does not do the work expected of 
it, there may be one of several things causing the trouble. 
The vise automatic itself, if out of adjustment, will 
allow the machine to continue its revolution. Place a 
thin space on the vise jaw over the place where the first 
elevator slide adjusting or banking screw rests when the 
first elevator is down in the vise cap. This is the screw 
that regulates the down-stroke of the first elevator slide. 
Start the machine. When the first elevator descends into 
the vise cap and the screw strikes the thin space the vise 
automatic should shut off the machine. This adjustment 
is made by raising or lowering the front screw in the 
top of the first elevator slide. Adjusting the screw until 
the machine stops with the thin space interposed between 
the vise cap and the banking screw in the first elevator 
is equivalent to the machine stopping in case of an over¬ 
set line; that is, a line of matrices which are of greater 
width than the em measure for which the vise jaws are 
set. During normal operation of the machine, the screw 
in the first elevator slide will depress the stop rod suffi- 
cinetly so the dog will clear the pawl in the stop rod. 
Adjust the front screw in the top of the first elevator 
slide until the pawl in the stop rod will just clear the 
disk dog as the mold wheel pushes the dog forward. 

It should be borne in mind that the vise automatic is 
not necessarily out of adjustment in case it does not per¬ 
form the function for which it was intended. There may 
have been a front squirt and metal allowed to run in and 
around the dog, or the stop rod pawl. The spring in- 


180 ] 


Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


81 


side the dog may have become cracked in several places 
and the dog remains in a forward position instead of 
retracting after the pressure of the mold wheel is re¬ 
lieved. The striking edges of the dog as well as the 
pawl may have become broken or rounded off from long 
or frequent use. In this event, renew the parts. If not 
too badly worn, the edges may be reground. 



The action of the vise automatic is as follows: The 
first elevator descends, the end of the front adjusting 
screw in the top of the first elevator slide depresses the 
top of the stop rod, which projects through the vise cap, 
against the stress of the spring attached to the stop rod. 
The mold advances causing forward stroke of the dog in 
the vise frame. Should the first elevator contain an 
overset line, or some other obstruction is preventing the 
full descent of the first elevator, the stop rod will not 
be pushed down far enough, and the dog will bear against 
the pawl in the stop rod, which causes the lower end of 
the stop rod to advance against the stop lever. The stop 
lever will bear against the connecting rod, and from this 
point on the action is equivalent to shutting off the ma¬ 
chine manually, and the clutch will be thrown out of 
action. This is the normal function of the vise automatic 
apparatus. 

Some of the things that will cause the vise automatic 
to perform its duty are as follows: A matrix may have 






82 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


become lodged between the stop rod pawl and the dog, 
thus shutting off the machine. A screw in the first ele¬ 
vator slide duplex rail cap may have worked out a suffi¬ 
cient distance to hold the elevator up, producing the 
same effect as in the case of a tight line. The knife 
wiper may interfere with the free descent of the first 
elevator. A matrix may have fallen between the vise 
jaws and the vise cap. The assembler slide clamp, if old 
style, may have slipped frictionally on the assembler 
slide, and in this way permit too wide a line of matrices 
and spacebands to strike the vise jaws and shut off the 
machine. 

Set the assembler at regular intervals, by means of the 
screw in the clamp, on linotypes, or the assembler slide 
finger screws on intertypes, so that the assembler mea¬ 
sure will be about a thin space less than the vise jaw 
measure. This may be done as follows: Assemble a 
line of matrices, 12 or 13 ems wide, with one spaceband 
until the star wheel just turns over or vibrates against 
line of matrices. Send in the line and note how far up 
the spaceband rises at second justification. The top of 
the spaceband should come even or a little higher than 
the top of the first elevator jaws. Repeat the lines and 
adjust the screw after sending in each line until you 
have a line of matrices in which the spaceband will jus¬ 
tify as described above. Then do not send in any lines 
on which the star wheel has stopped. Every time the 
vise jaws are reset for setwise position of type face in 
relation to the body of the slug, or whenever a new star 
wheel is applied, the assembler adjustment should be 
taken care of. This adjustment and the proper observ¬ 
ance of the amount of matrices and spacebands assembled 
in the assembler is the best insurance against cut toes 
on matrices or spacebands bent in justification. 

If the vise automatic does not shut off the machine 
soon enough in case of an overset line or other obstruc¬ 
ts, it is possible that the vise automatic stop rod has 
become bent in some way, and allows the mold wheel to 
advance too far forward onto the line of matrices, before 
shutting off the machine. The mold wheel should not 
advance more than about y 8 of an inch past the mold 
turning pinion. 

Before attempting to bend the stop rod see that the 
friction or driving clutch adjustments are in order. Es- 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


83 


pecially see that the space between the forked lever and 
the collar does not exceed 1 /32". If this space is more 
than 1 /32" of an inch, the clutch cannot be thrown out of 
action soon enough. 

The vise automatic stop rod is made of malleable iron 
and can be readily bent or “bellied” so that the disk dog 
will strike the pawl in the stop rod sooner and shut off 
the machine before the mold wheel has advanced so far 
forward as to bind the line of matrices. Do not bend 
the rod so much as to interfere with the rod coming back 
to normal position after the ejection has taken place. 

To bend or “belly” a vise automatic stop rod use a 
bench vise having 5" or 6" jaws, and three L-shaped 
brass pieces as shown in Fig. 53, page 204. If you do 
not have a knowledge of the different kinds of iron, 
consult any machine shop to determine if the rod is 
made of malleable iron, before attempting to squeeze 
it in the vise. 



MOLDS AND WIPERS 


M OLDS on line-casting machines will need some 
attention, especially their faces and bases. These 
can be kept automatically polished if the front 
and back mold wipers function as they should. Occa¬ 
sionally remove the molds and go over them with a good 
metal polish, one that is free from grit of any kind. 
There is a polish on the market which has been used for 
this purpose for years by many machinists. Its principal 
ingredient is crocus powder and it has a purple color. 
One brand goes under the name of Putz Pommade, and 
it can be bought at the average drug store. Tripoli, in 
connection with oil, is a safe polish. 

Remove the mold, separate the cap and liners. Use 
a pine stick to apply the polish and rotate the stick with 
a circular motion. Don’t forget the grooves in the mold 
cap during this operation. Also at this time clean the 
ends of the liners and remove any burrs or “dishes” with 
a small slip stone or stick. 

It will require considerable “elbow grease” to polish 
the average mold and remove the film of oxide with 
which the inside is coated. The exertion, however, is 
well worth the trouble. 

Many mold caps in time become warped, that is the 
cap will curl or “belly” in the middle due to intense 
casting heats. If you are not equipped to do the work 
of straightening caps, have the manufacturers send you 
a utility mold for use while they are straightening your 
mold and deepening the ribs. 

A warped mold cap will cast a slug that will be thicker 
than the body size wanted and the left-hand trimming 
knife will gouge the rib side of the slug. The mold cap 
can be straightened at a very reasonable figure and it 
is not likely, after being repaired once that it will ever 
warp again. 

A mold having rounded corners will cast a slug with 
feather edges which the back knife can’t trim off. These 
rounded corners can be caused by trying to clean off metal 
with emery cloth, etc. 


[ 84 ] 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


85 


MOLD WIPERS 


There are several felt wipers on line-casting machines: 
One wiper for the back of the mold, one for the front 
which polishes the mold face, and one wiper to lubricate 
the mold turning cam shoe. On linotypes there are two 
additional felt wipers to lubricate the left-hand vise jaw 
adjusting wedge. 

It is customary to use stick mold polish on the back 
mold wiper, containing tallow and graphite; benzine and 
dry graphite on the front mold wiper rubbed in briskly 
with the fingers after saturating the felt with benzine; 
and ordinary machine oil on the cam shoe wiper felt ap¬ 
plied on oiling day. 

These wipers collectively are highly important and the 
condition in which they are kept contributes to the suc¬ 
cess or failure in the operation of a slug-casting machine 
to a remarkable degree. 

The mold turning cam shoe wiper bracket is mounted 
on the mold turning gear cover by means of one screw 
at an angle to allow the felt to come in direct path of the 
cam shoes as they pass. This device keeps the working 
surfaces of the two shoes moistened with oil and regular 
weekly attention so as to keep the felt saturated with oil 
is the surest preventative from “dishing out” the true 
surfaces of the shoes. 

If, for any reason, it is necessary to apply a new 
wiper, the felt can be moistened with gasoline, the felt 
doubled and the fold squeezed tightly in a vise, when 
it will easily pass into the bracket slot. The tighter the 
fit the less liability of its dropping out from friction with 
the shoes. 



Fig. 24. 


As an additional safeguard a piece of 1/16" wire can 
be run through the loop and the ends bent opposite each 
other, as shown in Fig. 24. 

On the later models of linotype machines there are 








86 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


two wipers, one for each side of the left-hand vise jaw 
adjusting wedge. The right-hand wiper prevents the 
wedge from becoming scored by contact with the wedge 
block, wedge and block being hardened, and both wipers 
assisting in a smooth “breakaway” after the line has been 
cast. A quick and tight justification between the wedge 
and block with the least amount of friction is highly 
desirable here, especially in the way of one-spaceband 
justifications. 

The front mold wiper is, perhaps, as important a de¬ 
vice as will be found in the casting apparatus. When 
properly functioning it polishes the mold face, keeps it 
clean and preserves the casting edges of the matrices. 
An accumulation of metal on the mold face will in time 
pit and distort the faces of matrices that have contact 
with the front of the mold. All makes of line-casting 
machines have similar devices to brush off and polish the 
mold. The front mold wiper bracket is made of brass 
and can easily be bent to the desired angle so as to have 
square contact with the mold. This can be determined 
by slowly closing the vise and watching how the wiper 
felts touch the mold, then bending the bracket so the 
felts will touch evenly. The steel coil spring should 
have sufficient tension to firmly hold the wiper in a for¬ 
ward position. Apply benzine to the felts and thoroughly 
rub dry graphite in with the fingers. 

Every eight-hour shift the mold faces and vice jaws 
should be briskly polished with dry graphite and cloth. 

It seems to the writer that when the back mold wiper 
and the casting mechanism are properly cared for the 
wiper itself becomes a mighty important factor in the 
successful and automatic production of slugs. It should 
not be regarded as a makeshift devise to correct errors 
somewhere else in the slug-casting apparatus, but rather 
as an integral part. 

The bulk of the mold wipers now in use are probably 
mounted upon the upper front end of the mold slide cast¬ 
ing, held in place by the top ejector buffer screw. The 
wiper now applied is radically different in shape and is 
set under the base trimming knife at the left-hand side 
of the mold disk, and is urged forward against the mold 
base by two light compression springs. 

The assertion has been made that the back mold wiper 
rounds the mold cell corners from continuous friction. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


87 


When properly in position with the right tension, this 
wear is very slight. In time, however, the mold cell 
corners will certainly become rounded—in a great many 
cases from abuse of screw drivers, “hammering out” 
slugs, etc. To the statement that the mold wiper rounds 
the corners of a mold I will also reply that eventually all 
molds lose their temper from casting heat. Daily scrap¬ 
ing and frequent lapping of the base is more ruinous to 
a mold than the damage ever done by any wiper. 

Molten type metal contains something that attacks steel 
surfaces, no matter how highly finished they may be. 
No one can dispute this. If you do not believe it, ex¬ 
perimentation will prove it. A steel bushing in a cast 
iron pot well, for instance, makes an interesting subject 
for proof. It seems, therefore, that it is all the more 
necessary for a thin film of some lubricant to be con¬ 
stantly interposed between the pot mouthpiece and the 
mold during the casting operation. Gradually the action 
of molten metal being forced into the mold cell will 
round its corners or edges. There is more than one 
element that enters into the destruction of those perfect 
edges on a new mold. 

The new style back mold wipers on both linotype and 
intertype machines wipe the mold after the slug has been 
trimmed on the bottom and before ejection. This idea 
does prevent somewhat the evil of molds having rounded 
edges. But what will happen to a four-mold disk? It 
is a mechanical impossibility to cast from more than one 
mold at a time. The other three empty molds must pass 
and have sliding contact with the wiper. 

The lapping of molds by hand or machine should be 
avoided as much as possible, if not altogether. The back 
mold wiper, if cared for in the correct manner, will do 
away with lapping molds except at very long intervals. 

Where a back mold wiper is in use that machine must 
have a lock-up in good condition. It has always seemed 
to me that the non-use of a wiper is more apologetic 
than where it is kept in service on the machine. 

It is inconceivable to some machinists to witness the 
operation of “banging” defective slugs from the mold 
with the ejector lever handle. One should always think 
of that ejector lever handle as being on the machine only 
for the convenience of the machinist or operator in chang- 




88 


Linotypes and Inter types 


ing ejector blades or while working with the ejector slide 
or blades. 

The back mold, wiper assists in preventing “stuck” 
slugs and does away with undue wear on the back trim¬ 
ming knife, as well as lessening labor in keeping a work¬ 
able contact between the pot mouthpiece and the mold. 
It certainly was not intended as an ally to a forgotten 
metal lever in the crucible. It is not necessary to sat¬ 
urate the wiper felt with blue ointment, tallow and 
graphite, oil and graphite, etc., as the wiper would then 
become an insidious trouble monger, and eventually mat¬ 
rices could not be induced to slide out of the magazine 
regularly. Cheap oils of certain brands carbonize readily 
when near high heat. 

Blue ointment (mercury and lard) rusts steel. Tl also 
attacks type metal. Tallow (mutton) and graphite is 
also extensively used. Mold polish for the purpose can 
be bought from the manufacturers in foil-wrapped and 
boxed sticks reasonably. The mixture rubbed into the 
wiper felt should contain more graphite than anything 
else. A slug-casting machine responds to intelligent care, 
and since this is the case, why not have a regular day 
for renewing wipers, roughing the felt and applying more 
lubricant, whether it seems to need it just then or not? 
Preventive work ought to be a machinist’s main object 
in the care of a plant. 

In selecting felt for use it is well to avoid harsh or 
hard material. Any old article will not do. It is essen¬ 
tial that new live felt be used. Felt that has been dis¬ 
carded from a press is unfit for use on a composing ma¬ 
chine when intended for use as wipers. The softer the 
felt the more successful will be its operation. Piano 
felt, while somewhat expensive upon first cost, is a cheap 
investment. 

Felt can be fastened or cemented to the old-style 
bracket in one of several ways. Brass escutcheon studs, 
one at each corner, may be used providing the head of 
the stud is considerably depressed into the felt. 

Silicate of soda (liquid glass) applied to one side of 
the felt and the wiper left under pressure on the bracket 
over night is a reliable way to cement the two. The 
only objection is that this operation consumes sometime. 
The hotter silicate of soda becomes during use the tighter 
it will hold the felt. 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


89 


Stick shellac can be applied to the bracket while hot 
and then felt and bracket slightly squeezed in a vise till 
cool. Scrape the bracket first and remove any oil or 
grease present before proceding. 



The new style linotype back mold wiper to renew re¬ 
quires eight pieces of 1 /12" felt held in place by two 
screws which pass through the felt into a keeper plate. 

The intertype wiper is made of a leather disk mounted 
on a circular plate, in the center of which is a felt pad 
or wad, to be saturated with lubricant. This wiper is 
urged forward by one coil spring, is placed under the 
base trimming knife, and is free to revolve depending 
upon the revolutions of the mold disk. 










XII. 


GAS METAL POTS 

HE GAS pots used on slug-casting machines are 
the same to all intents and purposes as the electric 



pots and with the exception of the necessary 
changes to accommodate the heating factor are adjusted 
the same. 

The intertype and linotype gas pots are described sep¬ 
arately and those things such as pot lever eyebolt, tak¬ 
ing a mouthpiece impression and causes for porous slugs 
and slugs with poor faces will apply to both machines. 


INTERTYPE GAS POT. 


The intertype metal pot and crucible are of square de¬ 
sign, made this way to contain a greater bulk of metal 
than a pot of round design. In the gas pot there is an 
auxiliary burner back of the plunger well designed to 
assist in the melting of the metal in a short space of 
time. 

The screw a, Fig. 26, in both pot legs, regulates the 
height of the metal pot in relation to the mold so that 
the jets will be next to the smooth side of the slug and 
show round and full on the bottom of the slug. The 
screw, b, is to be turned up against the bushing, e, after 
screw, a, is adjusted. Screw a is turned down to raise 
the pot and unscrewed to lower the pot. However, after 
once properly adjusted, the screws a and b will rarely 
need adjusting unless they work loose or a new crucible 
or mouthpiece is applied and possibly not then unless 
the jets do not come within the smooth or constant side 
of the slug. 

When oiling every week apply oil to the right- and 
left-hand pot leg bushings, e. Also put a little oil at 
the side of the roll m and the oil holes in the pot lever 
shaft. The heat of the metal pot heats the pot lever 
and shaft to a high enough temperature that unless suf¬ 
ficient lubricaion is provided the shaft will rust in or be 
cemented tightly with carbonized oil. 

Screws c and d are to adjust the pot legs forward and 


[ 90 ] 


Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


91 


back so that the mouthpiece will lock squarely with the 
mold during the cast. If the left-hand side of the mouth¬ 
piece does not “print” when taking a red-lead test, move 
screw c in and screw d out on left pot leg. This will 



throw the left side of mouthpiece closer to the left side 
of the mold. Turn the screws only a little at a time and 
take a new red-lead impression each time the screws are 
adju; ted. 













































92 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


If the red lead shows only in the centre of the mouth¬ 
piece do not adjust the pot leg screws. This will indi¬ 
cate that the mouthpiece has warped from casting heat— 
i. e., bowed, or higher in the centre than at either end., 

Use an oil stone to dress down the mouthpiece. Pro¬ 
cure a 6- or 8-inch, stone, coarse grit, and keep it in a ma¬ 
chine oil bath. The oil will prevent particles from the 
mouthpiece filling up the pores and interfering with its 
cutting qualities. If the red lead shows unevenly in spots 
along the length of the mouthpiece, dressing with the 
stone will be sufficient. 

To take a red lead impression see section relating to 
red lead and lampblack tests. 

When adjusting screws c and d always note if swing¬ 
ing the pot has made the lever k move over against the 
sides of the gear or the pot pump lever cams. If so, ad¬ 
just the lever until it is positioned between the two cams 
so that it won’t touch either one. 

The pot lever k on the intertype is adjusted sidewise 
by loosening the screw o and shifting on its shaft until 
the roller m rides evenly between the pot pump lever and 
the gear cams, so as not to interfere with the square lock¬ 
up of the mouthpiece in relation to the mold. 

At least once a year remove the pot lever from the 
machine for the purpose of replacing cracked rollers 
and lubrication. Run machine ahead until the first ele¬ 
vator rests on the vise cap—this is to turn over the sec¬ 
ond elevator cam so the pot lever eyebolt wing pin and 
the lever itself will be accessible. Put a pig of metal 
between the pot lever shaft lug and the plunger lever 
roll. This is to throw the weight of the pot off the pot 
lever roll. Next jerk out the pot balancing spring under¬ 
neath the pot lever. (Earlier machines do not have the 
balancing spring). Next remove the eyebolt wing pin 
in the lug underneath the pot. Do not disturb the ad¬ 
justing nuts, g and j on eyebolt. Then remove screw v 
and loosen screw o. The pot lever shaft can now be 
withdrawn, when the lever k can be lowered and taken 
out from underneath the metal pot. 

Place the lever on bench and remove the roller. Wash 
the roll, two washers, the nine anti-friction rolls and the 
roll pin. Replace any crazed or cracked anti-friction 
rolls with good ones. To replace the rollers, lay the pot 
lever roll on its side, drop in one washer, put hard grease 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


93 


around the inside edge of the roll in liberal quantity. 
Squash in the anti-friction rolls one at a time, put on 
the other washer and withdraw the large centre pin. The 
pot lever roll can now be put back in the lever. The 
grease will hold the nine anti-friction rolls in place until 
the centre pin is pushed in the pot lever. To replace 
the lever reverse the above proceedings. 

The adjustment of the pot lever spring eyebolt is an 
important one and its function should be thoroughly 
studied. It causes the pot to lock against the mold with 
yielding pressure. If enough tension is not exerted by 
the spring the pot will squirt and letters on the slug will 
be of varying height; if the spring is cracked or old and 
weak, the same effect will be produced. If the adjust¬ 
ment of the spring is not correct the pot cannot retreat 
and release the line for the second justification of the 
spacebands with the result that there will be poor justi¬ 
fication, squirts, hairlines between the letters or possibly 
broken spacebands. This retreat of the metal pot dur¬ 
ing second justification is vital. 

Before attempting to adjust the pot lever eyebolt nuts 
see that the pot lever shaft, held in place by screw o is 
not bound by rust or frozen with carbonized oil. This 
adjustment should be made while the pot is hot—heated 
ready to cast, otherwise it is no adjustment at all, for 
the reason that there is a difference of over one-sixteenth 
of an inch between the cam and lockup point between 
the hot and cold, due to contraction and expansion. After 
seeing that the shaft is free and the machine is heated 
ready to cast, and the pot pump lever locked off, run 
the machine around to lockup, then adjust the nut, j, 
away from the lever, k, about one-eighth of an inch. The 
nut j is the compression nut and adjusts for position the 
lever k. The nut g is the tension adjusting nut for 
regulating the tension of the spring through which the 
pot shall compress against the mold. This tension should 
be sufficient to counterbalance the weight of the pot and 
metal, and insure a positive contact between the pot 
mouthpiece and the mold. Do not adjust the two nuts 
so tight as to have the coils of the spring i close together 
as this will not allow for compression. 

There is a piece of pipe, h, on the eyebolt, placed there 
to prevent a certain amount of misadjustment of the two 
nuts. In some cases after use, it will be necessary to re- 



94 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


move the two pins, w, from the piece of pipe or sleeve, 
in order to secure proper compression and tension of 
the spring. However, do not remove the pins unless it is 
impossible to get a good yielding lockup, with one-eighth 
of an inch between pot lever and back nut, j, during 
lockup. Always return the pipe or sleeve to place after 
removing the pins. 

To remove the pump plunger lever on an intertype, 
unscrew shaft q by inserting a screw driver in the hole 
at the top of the shaft, after which the shaft is with¬ 
drawn and the lever lifted out. To replace, put the lever 
and shaft in place and tighten the shaft set screw; drop 
the shaft q inside the spring; run machine around until 
plunger lever descends, screw the shaft in again and run 
machine ahead, so the heat from the metal pot won’t 
warp the mold. 

The plunger lever cam roll should be watched to see 
that it doesn’t run dry and develop a flat spot which 
will ruin the cam in a short time. Oil twice a week. 
The duty imposed on the roll, n, is unusually severe. 
Later intertypes have what is called an oilless bearing for 
this roller, but oil applied will help the roll revolve 
freely. 

The little detent, r, is placed in the plunger lever so 
that the plunger rod pin will always be in place and never 
work loose, either while operating the machine or when 
the plunger is removed for cleaning. 

While giving the plunger its daily brushing, and scrap¬ 
ing the sides of the pot crucible well, poke a steel hook 
in the feed holes, u, one on each side of the well, and 
clean out any dross which might plug them up. 

The gas governor is adjusted by turning the disk s 
after loosening the binding screw which holds the disk 
tight after adjusting it. 

Every three months remove the pot gas burner and 
thoroughly clean inside and out with a wire brush. The 
screws, f, may be corroded and the top plate brittle from 
burning heat. It is wise to have an extra top plate and 
screws on hand in case the ones in use break or crack, 
before attempting to take burner apart for cleaning. 

Should metal boil or bubble up around plunger very 
much at the edge of the well, shown at p, when mak¬ 
ing its downstroke, and light or porous slugs are being 
produced, more than likely the plunger is worn and one 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


95 


from two to four one-thousandths oversize should be in¬ 
stalled. These plungers can be obtained from the manu¬ 
facturers of the machine. If applying an oversize plunger 
does not remedy porous slugs more than likely the 
crucible well has become worn to an elliptical shape and 
the round plunger will permit metal to escape back into 
the pot. A new crucible is then in order. 

TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE INTER¬ 
TYPE MOUTHPIECE 

The intertype mouthpiece can be spoken of as being 
fastened on the crucible instead of in the crucible. 

The mouthpiece can be removed from the crucible by 
driving with a hammer and suitable drift made by the 
Intertype Corporation, and which should be procured be¬ 
fore attempting to remove it. 

Certain preparations should be made beforehand so 
there will be no hitch in the proceedings. 

If you have never seen a mouthpiece taken out and re¬ 
placed it is a good idea to watch someone who is pro¬ 
ficient do the work. 

Also it is well to be prepared for the operation be¬ 
fore commencing the job. That is, locate your drift, 
crucible saw and extra mouthpiece and gib. It is insur¬ 
ance to be protected with the necessary extra parts and 
all efficient plants carry them. 

Run machine ahead to casting position, that is, until 
the first elevator rests on the vise cap. Let vise down 
to second position. Remove the mold disk shield plate. 
Disconnect ejector lever link and pull mold slide for¬ 
ward, or remove it entirely. Out of a piece of Y%" wood 
make a wedge about five inches long and fasten it se¬ 
curely between the crucible and the casting above the 
mold slide. This will take up the jar and provide a solid 
base when the hammer blows strike the drift held against 
the left-hand end of the mouthpiece. 

Also remove the left-hand vise locking stud on the mold 
gear arm. This will prevent interference with the posi¬ 
tion in which the drift is held. 

Score the mouthpiece and crucible with a chisel and 
light hammer tap above the first hole (right-hand side), 
so you will know just where the mouthpiece should be re¬ 
located when it is put back in place. In case a new 
mouthpiece is applied the chisel mark on the crucible will 



96 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


serve as a guide for position by having the end hole di¬ 
rectly in line with it vertically. This precaution is neces¬ 
sary so that the end holes or jets in mouthpiece will come 
within the mold cell. If the end jet were half covered 
by the end of the liner the slug would cast with a dis¬ 
turbed face or have a frozen look. 

Intertype information on new machines gives the loca¬ 
tion of mouthpiece so that the center of the end hole in 
the mouthpiece to the top of the right-hand vise stud 
should be 3 1 /32". 

Place the drift against the left end of the mouthpiece 
and strike a few smart blows with the hammer. Drive 
toward the keyboard. After the mouthpiece has been 
loosened sufficiently pull out the gib. 

If there is an accumulation of dross in the crucible 
throat use the jagged, saw-like dross saw furnished by 
the manufacturers and clean out thoroughly as far as 
the saw will reach. Sometimes this operation will require 
considerable exertion on gas pots. 

Place the machine metal box or an ingot mold under 
the mouthpiece opening and work the plunger rod up 
and down by hand, pumping out the metal until all the 
dross and foreign matter cut by the saw has been re¬ 
moved. 

While the parts are hot clean mouthpiece and gib thor¬ 
oughly. After flushing the crucible by hand clean off 
the lips and use a wire brush to assist in removing for¬ 
eign substances. 

Red lead powder and oil mixed to a cream consistency 
can now be applied to the mouthpiece where it has con¬ 
tact with the crucible, except the surface against which 
the gib bears. Coat the gib with graphite and oil. Place 
the mouthpiece in position and drive in the gib until the 
hammer blows sound solid. Do not drive so hard as to 
bend the gib or burr it over. 

The mouthpiece is now ready to be tested for align¬ 
ment with the mold. See section relating to red lead and 
lampblack tests. 

LINOTYPE GAS POT 

When adjusting the metal pot legs for uneven con¬ 
tact with the mold, the four screws in each pot leg 
should be understood in order to procure an even lock¬ 
up against the mold. The screw, a, Fig. 27, regulates the 
height of the mouthpiece—that is, the screw should be 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


97 


adjusted so that the jets will show round and full on 
the constant or smooth side of the slug and just even 
with the edge. Screw h, after adjusting screw a, screws 
tight against the bushing, l. If the left-hand side of the 
mouthpiece shows no print on the mouthpiece when tak¬ 



ing an impression, the left side of the pot will have to 
be brought nearer to the mouthpiece by screwing in on 
screw c and turning screw d out, or unscrewing it. 

The letters ttt and s represent asbestos packing between 
the crucible and pot jacket proper. 



























































98 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


If difficulty is encountered in keeping the tube burners, 
v, ignited, fashion a small sheet iron shield, m, so the 
fumes from the ring burner below will not choke the 
flame, but instead will pass around the shield. 

The adjustment of the pot lever, k, is effected so that 
there will be 1 /8" between the pot lever and the nut, i, 
when the pot is locked against the mold during the cast 
The nut i represents the compression adjustment or the 
amount the lever will compress the spring h. The nut g 
may be called the tension nut, or the stiffness with which 
the pot shall lock against the mold. There is a piece of 
pipe between nuts i and g, put there by the manufactur¬ 
ers to prevent misadjustment of the lever. Sometimes 
it is necessary in order to get the proper adjustment of 
the pot lever to drive out the two pins holding the pipe 
to the eyebolt. Do not omit the pipe. Return it to its 
place on the eyebolt, after driving out the pins, then ad¬ 
just the two nuts, i and e. 

The nut, j is intended as a lock nut to preserve the set¬ 
ting of the nut t. 

Wing pin / should be oiled regularly when the rest of 
the machine receives attention. 

The pot lever shaft should be rotated or “wiggled” 
weekly by loosening nut o and inserting screw driver in 
the end of the shaft. This is to insure that the machine 
oil used in the pot lever shaft bearing won’t carbonize 
from heat and freeze the lever k to the shaft. 

Oil at the side of the roller, m, weekly. Occasionally 
remove the pot lever and repack this roll and its nine 
anti-friction rolls with grease, after washing all parts 
in coal oil. The grease used to pack inside of the large 
cam roll will hold the nine small rollers in place until 
the roll pin is replaced in the lever. 

Keep a watchful eye on the pot pump lever cam roll, 
n, to see that it does not scrape the cam or develop a flat 
spot. If a flat spot appears remove the roll and reface 
against an emery wheel, using its wing pin to hold the 
roll while grinding. Hold the roll at an angle against 
the grinding wheel so it won’t revolve as fast as the 
wheel. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


99 


TO REMOVE AND REPLACE LINOTYPE 
WEDGE MOUTHPIECE 

When it becomes necessary to remove and replace a 
pot mouthpiece, the following procedure may be of as¬ 
sistance in performing this operation. First, cast a slug 
and note position of mouthpiece jets on the bottom of the 
slug, then with a scriber or sharp instrument, scratch a 
mark on the crucible upper lip just above the first jet 
on the right side of mouthpiece. This will aid you in 
locating the replaced mouthpiece sidewise. 

Run machine ahead until the first elevator is seated on 
the vise cap, open the vise and let it down to second 
position, remove the mold disk shield, go around to the 
back of the machine, lower mold cam lever handle, and 
take out ejector slide link wing pin in the ejector lever, 
take out link, remove the mold slide, put a wooden block 
or wedge between the right-hand side of the crucible and 
the right-hand vise locking screw stud and see that it 
fits fairly tight; this is to brace the crucible during the 
process of driving out the mouthpiece; loosen the nut on 
the left-hand vise locking screw stud, and while taking 
out the stud note if there are any brass washers on the 
stud; if so, preserve them, as they are put between the 
mold gear arm and the left vise locking stud shoulder 
to maintain a square or parallel lock-up between the vise 
and mold disk. 

There are three methods which are worth trying when 
removing a pot crucible mouthpiece. The greatest care 
must be exercised upon the removal of a mouthpiece and 
every precaution taken to prevent cracking or chipping 
the crucible lips where they fit around the mouthpiece, 
and where one method will not affect the removal of the 
mouthpiece another may be tried. One of the three ways 
will surely remove any mouthpiece, no matter how long 
it has been in the crucible. 

The first of these methods might be compared to the 
“can-opener” device frequently seen on certain kinds of 
ready-to-use foods. 

The first of these three methods is often successfully 
accomplished by grasping the left-hand end of the mouth¬ 
piece gib with a large pair of strong pliers and start 
rolling the gib toward the right or keyboard side of the 
machine. 





100 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


It might be said here that it is better to lose a gib or 
mouthpiece and put in new ones than it will be to try to 
straighten up the old ones. In fact, it seems to be the 
universal practice to junk a mouthpiece and gib after 
they have been in use for some time, and it is necessary 
to take them out. 

If the gib breaks off, it will then be necessary to try 
driving the mouthpiece with a hammer and drift. If 
you do not have a regular drift furnished by the manu¬ 
facturers, a brass rod may be substituted. Use a three- 
pound hammer. A small hammer will burr the end of the 
mouthpiece. If the mouthpiece does not loosen after a 
few smart blows have been struck, give up the idea of 
driving it out, as the end of the mouthpiece will become 
swelled where the drift bears against it and the crucible 
lips will become spread apart or cracked. 

The next method will be to enlarge each jet by drill¬ 
ing out with a No. 30 or */&" twist drill. Drill clear 
through each jet. After the jets are enlarged, cave in 
the top of the mouthpiece with hammer and drift nearly 
to each end. Now tap out the mouthpiece by driving 
toward the keyboard. In case of a head-letter mouth¬ 
piece, the mouthpiece can be caved in by driving upward 
from the bottom with hammer and drift. 

After the mouthpiece and gib are removed, place the 
metal box or recasting pan underneath the crucible lips, 
supported by a box or stool. 

Use the throat cleaner (a special double edged saw¬ 
like tool sold by the'manufacturers of the machine), and 
thoroughly remove any accumulated dross or oxides 
which may have become attached to the inside of the 
crucible. This operation may require considerable exer¬ 
tion. If there is no such accumulation it will be appar¬ 
ent when the orifice is probed with the throat cleaner. 

Remove the pot pump plunger pin, and with the 
plunger rod worked slowly by hand, flush the dross and 
dirt from the crucible, which will be caught in the pan 
mounted below the crucible, as described above. Clean 
the crucible lips thoroughly with a wire scratch brush 
and wipe with a cloth. 

The next step will be to grind in the mouthpiece, 
which, after all, is the only reliable way of making a 
metal-tight joint. This method will probably save an- 


$ 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


101 


other extraction of a leaky mouthpiece. While it con¬ 
sumes some time it is worth the effort. 

Prepare a wood block or piece of reglet about four 
inches in length by driving two brads or finishing nails 
near either end, so that it will serve as a means for 
holding and moving the mouthpiece back and forth while 
grinding. This block furnishes a convenient means of 
preventing burned fingers and uncomfortable temper¬ 
ature. 

Coat the back of the mouthpiece, as well as the top, 
with machie oil, sprinkle a light coat of No. 120 emery 
or carborundum powder on it, place the mouthpiece on 
the block described and pass it into the lips of the cru¬ 
cible. Use very short strokes, not more than one-half 
inch in length, bear heavily. Frequently remove the 
mouthpiece, wipe off the oil and grinding powder, also 
the crucible lips. Apply fresh oil and abrasive. Grind 
until the mouthpiece shows a thoroughly abraded surface 
at the back. This will indicate an iron-to-iron joint. If 
the mouthpiece seat in the crucible is warped from exces¬ 
sive heat on an old machine, it may be necessary to 
slightly bend the mouthpiece to fit and then grind it 
into place. 

If you are satisfied the crucible is warped, it is best 
to turn out the fire underneath and let the metal pot 
become cold, and apply the mouthpiece with litharge ce¬ 
ment interposed between the parts. This cement cannot 
be very well applied when the metal is hot, the cement 
bubbling and blistering with the heat. 

Thoroughly wash the mouthpiece in gasoline and clean 
all particles of the grinding compound from the crucible. 
Place the mouthpiece in position and slide the gib under¬ 
neath the mouthpiece. If the end of the gib does not 
come underneath the first jet hole of the mouthpiece at 
the right-hand side, dress the gib by scraping until 
it comes even with the first jet. This is to insure a tight 
fit at the right side of the mouthpiece. Remove the 
mouthpiece and gib after fitting. 

If the crucible is straight and not warped, red lead 
and oil may be used when applying the mouthpiece. 
Otherwise coat the back of the mouthpiece as well as 
the top, with litharge and glycerine (can be bought at 
any drug store), mixed to a consistency of cream. Avoid 
putting any of this cement in the jets. Coat the gib 



102 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


with graphite and oil. When passing the mouthpiece 
into its place in the crucible, hold the back side away 
from the crucible so that none of the coating will be 
scraped off. 

Place the mouthpiece in position so that the first jet, 
right-hand side of mouthpiece, will match the mark you 
have scribed on the upper crucible lip. This will insure 
the end jets being fully within the mold cell. Put in the 
gib and start driving to place. As the gib is being tapped 
in with the hammer and drift, occasionally tap the front 
of the gib with hammer and brass rule. This is to pre¬ 
vent the gib working out towards the front. When the 
hammer strokes sound solid the gib will have been driven 
in tight enough. Make certain that the right end of the 
gib comes ever or passes underneath the first jet, right- 
hand side of the mouthpiece. 

Reassemble the left-hand vise locking stud and mold 
slide. 

The pot burners may now be relighted and turned 
low for a while. 

If the justification lever springs are very tight or the 
pot lever spring has a very stiff tension, loosen them. 
Allow the machine to remain with the first elevator down 
on the vise cap. The object in relieving the tension of 
the various springs is to make the work of “pumping” 
the machine easy while testing the truth of the lock-up 
between the mouthpiece and the mold. 

Clean the back of the mold free of metal and oxide 
coating. Coat it thinly and evenly with red lead powder 
and oil. Red ink will do if the red lead cannot be ob¬ 
tained, although it is somewhat sticky and fills the teeth 
of the file used to dress the mouthpiece. Close the vise 
and raise the mold slide lever handle. Grasp the first 
elevator cam and swing or “pump” the machine back and 
forth so the mouthpiece will have contact with the mold 
two or three times. Let down the mold slide lever handle 
and open the vise to first position, draw the mold slide 
out and examine the transfer of the red lead to the 
mouthpiece. 

If you are not tall enough to swing or pump the ma¬ 
chine with the first elevator cam, use the clutch arm to 
print the impression on the mouthpiece. Turn machine 
ahead until the mouthpiece has contact with the mold, 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


103 


then turn the machine back again until the mold disk just 
backs away from the locking stud blocks. 

It is not often that the pot leg screws will have to be 
readjusted after being once set. But it is probable that 
the mouthpiece will show an uneven impression against 
the mold, in which case the mouthpiece can be fitted or 
dressed until the red lead impression shows evenly the 
length of the mouthpiece. 

Before applying, it is a good idea to relieve the mouth¬ 
piece at either end to within about 24 points of either end 
jet. This will save considerable filing when fitting the 
mouthpiece to the mold. A depth of about one or two 
points is all that is necessary. 

If the mold is straight and not warped, a No. 120 grit 
carborundum or aloxite stone, soaked in oil, can be used 
to level the mouthpiece instead of a file. When the stone 
becomes hot, dip it in cool water. The stone can be 
half covered with a thin wood case to protect the hand 
while taking down the mouthpiece. Before using, treat 
the stone in an oil bath for several days. This will pre¬ 
vent the stone filling with steel particles and other for¬ 
eign substance which would impair its cutting qualities. 

In case one end of the mouthpiece shows red lead con¬ 
tact and the other end does not, the pot leg screws will 
have to be adjusted. As an example, the following will 
serve: The left end of the mouthpiece will have a tight 
impression, while the end nearest the keyboard will show 
little, if any red lead. To correct this move the left-hand 
side of the mouthpiece away from the mold by unscrew¬ 
ing the front screw in left-hand pot leg and turning in 
on the screw at the back of the pot leg. When one screw 
is moved the one opposite must be turned the same 
amount. Move the screws a little at a time and test 
the lock-up between each adjustment. 

Another important thing to watch when making pot 
leg adjustments is to see that the pot lever does not bear 
against the cam on either side of the lever. In adjusting 
the pot leg screws forward or back it always affects the 
side play between the lever and the cams, and if binding 
against the cam will interfere with a good lock-up be¬ 
tween the pot mouthpiece and the mold. Use the wash¬ 
ers on the pot lever shaft to position the pot lever so 
that its roller will ride on the cam with an even amount 




104 Linotypes and Intertypes 

of space on either side between the lever and adjacent 
cams. 

TO REMOVE AND REPLACE LINOTYPE 
SCREW MOUTHPIECE 

The later type of linotype mouthpiece consists of a 
flat steel plate suitably worked to shape and is held in 
place by thirteen screws. To remove, tap each screw 
sharply with a screw starter made by the company, or a 
large screwdriver, the shank of which runs clear through 
the handle. Place the starter in the screw head slot just as 
though you were going to unscrew it, then tap the starter 
a smart hammer blow. Then turn out the screw. These 
screws are very difficult to turn out after they have been 
in position for some time and cannot be turned out un¬ 
less some means is employed to start them. 

Upon replacing the mouthpiece thoroughly scrape all 
metal from the back side and also the crucible lips. 

Coat each screw and the mouthpiece where it has con¬ 
tact against the crucible, with a mixture of graphite 
grease, or oil and graphite. The next time the mouth¬ 
piece is removed the screws will start without difficulty. 

GAS BURNERS 

Gas burners for melting the metal, to be efficient, 
should be kept in the best condition. If not given the 
attention they should have at regular intervals, they will 
consume an excessive amount of gas, will cause an ob¬ 
noxious odor and be the cause of more or less metal 
trouble. 

Gas flames under a metal pot should be a blue or 
bluish-green color and should not burn too high. The 
cleaner the burners and mixers, the better will be the 
results obtained. 

A gas burner should be taken off the machine and 
cleaned every two or three months. Use a stiff wire 
brush inside and out and after the brushing operation 
dip the burner parts in tallow and graphite while hot. 
The burner cap is easily removed. If the cap has not 
been removed for some time the screws holding the cap 
to the body of the burner will probably break and new 
screws and nuts will be in order. 

Before returning the burner to place, wrap a cloth 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


105 


around the end of a steel rod and wipe out the burner 
orifice underneath the crucible and the mouthpiece. 

If a burner shows yellow tips or yellow flame it will 
indicate that the burner needs cleaning. After cleaning, 
as described above, and it still shows yellow tips, it is 
probable that too much gas is entering the mixing cham¬ 
ber for the amount of air that is being pulled in by the 
action of the gas flowing through on the way to be con¬ 
sumed. In this case, remove the burner from the valve. 
There is a small spud or tip in the valve top. The hole 
through which the gas flows can be made smaller by 
peining the edges over. This will prevent too much gas 
flowing through the valve and the mixture passing 
through the mixing chamber will have more air, which 
will result in a blue flame. 

The throat burners (two tubes between the main or 
ring burner and the mouthpiece) sometimes are difficult 
to keep properly ignited. This is explained either by the 
fumes from the ring burner smothering combustion of 
the throat burners, or the draft holes on either side of 
the crucible near the mouthpiece are choked with soot 
or asbestos packing which closes up the passages. Re¬ 
move the pot cap and clear out the places where the draft 
should pass. Explore the pot cap passage for soot with a 
stiff wire. 

If the vent passages are open, and the tubes do not 
stay lit, more than likely the fumes from the main or 
ring burner are affecting the combustion of the throat 
flames. Fashion a shield of sheet iron a little wider 
than the two tubes and about a quarter of an inch longer 
than the length of the tubes. About one-half inch from 
the bottom of the piece of sheet iron make a cut from 
either side deep enough to enable you to bend the ends 
around each tube to support the shield on the tubes. 
This will hold the sheet iron in place on the burner and 
guide the fumes from the ring burner around the shield 
and permit the throat tubes to burn properly. 

If either end of the mouthpiece burner flickers and 
refuses to stay lit, the vent holes are closed, or else fumes 
from the main burners back up through the passage 
where the fumes from the mouthpiece burner should go. 
If the latter, it may be necessary to fashion either a web 
of asbestos to deflect the fumes from the main burners 



106 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


away, or make a sort of separate chimney from tin or 
sheet iron to accomplish this purpose. 

The cocks or valves on a metal pot burner should be 
set to give a proportionate flame to each burner. It 
would not be proper to have an exceedingly high flame 
at the mouthpiece, the tubes hardly lit, and a very high 
blaze in the ring burner. Every time a cock is changed 
to let in more gas to a certain burner it will rob one of 
the others of just that much gas and the governor will 
have to be readjusted to compensate for it. It seems that 
when the burners are once set the cocks should not be 
moved again for the purpose of regulating the tempera¬ 
ture of the metal, except, possibly, in the case of casting 
large bodied slugs when the mouthpiece becomes super¬ 
heated from so much metal passing through, and it is 
then advisable to turn down the mouthpiece blaze, if 
trouble is experienced in getting good slugs. 

In the case of large bodied slugs which are not cast 
in a recessed mold it is impossible to cast continuously 
a solid-bottomed slug. The first few will have all ap¬ 
pearances of solidity. A,s the mold heats from casting, 
the center of the slug will require more time for cooling 
off. Just before the mouthpiece breaks away from the 
mold the plunger rises and creates a vacuum w'hich will 
suck the molten center of the slug back through the 
mouthpiece and into the crucible again. Cases have been 
known in the operation of casting solid 14-point slugs 
where the slug had been trimmed by the back knife 
before the center of the slug had cooled sufficiently to 
harden, with the result that it ran out slightly after the 
slug was trimmed, and trouble encountered with press 
work. Slow casting speed is the only remedy. 

The most important thing in connection with success¬ 
ful operation of gas burners is in cleaning them at regu¬ 
lar intervals. When removing the top plate on the ring 
burner handle it carefully, as it becomes very brittle 
from use. It is well to have an extra one on hand. 

POT LEVER EYEBOLT 

Adjustment of the pot lever eyebolt nuts is an impor¬ 
tant part of the machine’s correct operation and should 
be carefully studied. The spring on the eyebolt is placed 
there to give a yielding or springy lockup of the metal 
pot against the mold and misadjustment of the eyebolt, 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


107 


that is, screwing the nuts up to excess compression de¬ 
feats the purpose of this safety device, for it is a safety 
device as well as a mechanical contrivance. Broken vise 
locking studs may result from its misadjustment. 

It is also intended to furnish a cushion jam in case 
a matrix should accidentally lodge between the mold and 
the matrix line before the cast; also for the same reason 
when an auxiliary positioned line is sent in with the two 
letter attachment or “flopper” in position under the first 
elevator in which case the line of matrices is raised too 
high (.220"), so that the lower back lugs of matrices 
jam against the mold body instead of entering the align¬ 
ing grooves in the mold. 

The nut, j, Fig. 28, can be called the compression nut 
which regulates the amount the spring shall compress 
during lockup; the nut, g, is the tension nut and regulates 
the stiffness with which the pot shall lock against the 
mold. 



The compression nut, j, is adjusted to compress the 
pot lever, k, one-eighth of an inch during lockup. That 
is, there should be one-eighth of an inch between the 
back nut and the pot lever while the pot lever roll is be¬ 
ing pushed forward by the long shoe on the pot cam. 
If the lever is compressing too much because the nut 
is too far out on the eyebolt, the pot can’t recede for 
second justification of the spacebands when the pot lever 
roll travels between the two shoes on pot cam. 

On old machines there will be one or two knocking 





























108 


Linotypes and Inter types 


sounds when the lever compresses due to the backlash 
caused by worn teeth in the small driving pinion, the 
teeth of which have had their pitch line destroyed from 
wear. 

The spring, i, in time can become so weak that it will 
not align the matrices, and the letters on slugs will not 
not be of even height. 

There is a thimble or sleeve, h, held in place by the 
two pins, w. This is placed on the eyebolt to prevent 
misadjustment of the nuts, / and g. It is sometimes 
necessary to remove the two pins, w, before the one- 
eighth compression between the back nut and the 
pot lever can be obtained. Do not, in any case, remove 
the sleeve from the eyebolt—return it to place and let it 
“float.” 

A lock nut should be screwed up against the nut j to 
maintain its adjustment and prevent the nut working 
loose. 


RED LEAD AND LAMPBLACK TESTS 

If no red lead powder or Prussian blue are available 
when facing the mouthpiece, what is known as the “lamp¬ 
black” test may be employed to get a workable contact 
between the mouthpiece and mold. 

Saturate the asbestos block on the hooked pot wiper 
with gasoline and light it. While the gasoline is burn¬ 
ing hold the wiper underneath and coat the mouthpiece 
evenly with the black deposit from end to end. 

Then take an impression in the regular way by turn¬ 
ing machine ahead until the metal pot locks against the 
mold, back it off and print it again. Use the clutch to 
turn the machine by hand. Finally back the clutch until 
the pot has receded from the mold. Leave the machine 
in this position and open vise, pull out mold slide to see 
the mouthpiece. Either use an oilstone saturated with 
oil or a six-inch pillar file to face off the spots where 
the lampblack does not adhere. 

This method has some advantages over red lead in 
that a finer, closer contact with the mouthpiece can be 
secured and there are no mussy molds to clean up after¬ 
ward. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


109 


POROUS SLUGS 

Some of the things that can cause hollow or porous 
slugs are as follows: 

It should be understood first of all that a dirty plunger 
is usually the chief contributing cause for slugs full of 
air bells. The plunger needs cleaning daily to keep it 
free enough in the well, especially when the machine is 
new, so that it will permit the pot to sink back against 
the cam after the cast. When the pot is in normal posi¬ 
tion the bottom of the plunger is above the feed holes in 
the sides of the pot well. As the pot rocks forward it 
also rises, which closes plunger over the feed holes so 
that no metal can escape from under the plunger through 
the feed holes and back into the metal pot. 

A high metal temperature. Work the temperature of 
the metal at as low a heat as will produce good slugs. 

Shallow vents, or vents that have become partly choked 
by filling with oxides. To determine the ventage, cast a 
slug and stop machine before the base of the slug has 
been trimmed by the back knife; look behind the mold 
disk and note ventage; the sprues should be from one- 
half to three-quarters of an inch long, shown in Fig. 29, 
which represents a slug in the mold, but not yet trimmed 



by the back knife. Cast the slug before the mold has 
become heated from rapid work. If the sprues appear 
to be from one-half to three-quarters of an inch in 
length, and a light slug is still obtained, do not deepen the 
vents any more. Look for the trouble elsewhere. Deep¬ 
ening the vents will not make the slugs solid. As a part 
of routine clean out the vents daily with a sharp-pointed 
instrument, such as a knife blade or scriber. 

Jets in mouthpiece partly closed with oxides or foreign 
material. Either use a broach or No. 52 drill. While 






110 


Linotypes and Inter types 


drilling use mold polish or oil and turn slowly to avoid 
breaking the broach or drill. 

Perhaps the plunger or well, pp, Fig. 30, or both, have 
become worn so that metal escapes between them when 
the plunger descends. After a machine has been in use 
for some time this condition may appear. If there is 
much agitation of the metal bubbling up around the 
plunger on downstroke try an oversize plunger (.002" to 
.005"), which can be obtained from the manufacturers. 
It is possible that a new crucible will be necessary on 
account of the enlargement of the side wall of the 
well. It is more economical to install a new crucible 
in a case of this kind rather than have the well rebored 
and special plunger made at a machine shop. 

If it is decided to install an oversize plunger and it 
does not readily enter the well, it will, perhaps, be neces¬ 
sary to grind it in to fit while the crucible is hot. Dip 
metal from the crucible until about three-quarters of an 
inch of the well wall is exposed. Put machine oil and 
No. 120 grade emery powder sprinkled on the plunger 
and slowly, with a rotating motion, back and forth, 
work the plunger down into the well. Use a wrench on 
the plunger rod and be deliberate. This is a slow process, 
but will secure the proper fit of the plunger in the well. 

Weak tension on plunger lever spring. Increase ten¬ 
sion to the limit on the intertype by inserting screw¬ 
driver in hole at top and turning spring rod down. 

On the linotype to increase plunger lever spring ten¬ 
sion, slip the spring to the outside notch of the pot pump 
spring lever. If the adjusting hook inside and at the 
bottom of the machine column has slipped it will be 
necessary to readjust it. After doing this, replace the 
plunger lever spring by using wire caught in the spring 
loop and while standing on top of the machine lower the 
spring inside the machine column, catch the lower end 
of the spring in the hook, pull upwards and slip the top 
loop of the spring in the first notch of the plunger spring 
lever with the aid of a large screw driver or similar in¬ 
strument. 

Clean the two metal feed holes in the pot well daily, 
shown at u, Fig. 30, with hooked end of pot wiper which 
comes with the machine. 

Cases have been found where the pot crucible well was 
cracked on one side so that the metal was forced back 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


111 


into the pot on downstroke of the plunger, thus robbing 
the plunger of considerable of its force on the down- 
stroke. 

A collection of hard dross in the throat of the crucible, 
shown at x and x, Fig. 30. This collects sometimes in 
gas pots and no success can be had with the casting ap¬ 
paratus until it is cleaned out with a dross saw (can be 
furnished by the manufacturers of the machines), or if 
it cannot be cleaned out, a new crucible put in the pot. 

U 



This dross has been known to collect in gas pot crucible 
throats where good metal, maintained in good condition 
was used, although poor metal receiving no regular puri¬ 
fication will aggravate the collection of dross in the 
throat between the pot well and mouthpiece. This col¬ 
lection of dross will either produce a very light slug or 
one that is very solid, having a sickly looking face. 

A rarer cause for porous or disturbed looking slugs 
can be found upon removal of the mouthpiece. Occasion¬ 
ally there will be an irregular swelling or lump, or may¬ 
be a roughness just back of the mouthpiece in the cru¬ 
cible surfaces that will interfere with the swish and flow 
of the metal through the jets. In other words, the metal 
direction can be deflected, so much so that it weakens 
the force with which it enters the mold cell. 
























112 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


POOR FACES ON SLUGS 

Too low a metal temperature so that the face is 
“frozen,” and two or three of the mouthpiece jets are 
plugged with stiff metal. Raise the heat in the metal 
pot and give the metal a chance to become hotter before 
casting again. 

Dirty plunger which binds in pot crucible well. 

A dirty plunger can be the cause of poor type faces 
and back squirts. The plunger, as pot moves forward to 
mold lockup, hangs an instant in the well, raises the 
roller off the cam, then drops a short distance till the 
plunger lever roll strikes the cam. This will cause a 



Fig. 30-a. 


small amount of metal to be injected into the mold just 
before the regular plunger stroke takes place, and the 
smooth side of the slug will have bright metal spots, as 
shown in Fig. 30-a. 

One or both jets on ends of slugs partly covered by 
the ends of liners so that the jets do not show round 
and full within the mold cell. It is not necessary to re¬ 
move and relocate the mouthpiece setting in the crucible. 
Drill an extra jet with a No. 52 drill between the two 
end jets. Drill slowly and use mold polish or machine 
oil on the drill to avoid breaking the drill. 

Throat burners do not remain ignited on gas pots. De¬ 
vise a small sheet iron shield to protect the throat burner 
flames as explained in the section on gas burners. 

Dross in crucible throat, between the well and mouth¬ 
piece. Insufficient ventage, which causes a sickening 
“s-s-s-s-s” sound when plunger descends. Do not con¬ 
fuse this noise with the clear hiss produced when the 
air is rushing through the vents as metal enters the 
mold cell, and good slugs are being cast. Clean out 
the vents, cast several slugs and look at the length of 






Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


113 


the sprues before recutting the vents in the mouthpiece. 
Sprues should be from one-half to three-quarters of an 
inch in length. 

Matrices that have had their casting cells coated with 
patent mold polishes, pastes and dope. Strictly avoid 
these things. See chapter on mold wipers. 

INFORMATION 

If there is no time to reface a warped mouthpiece be¬ 
cause the machine’s product is needed, plug up the unused 
jets with lead pencil. Whittle off the lead pencil as the 
lead is used. Tap in the jets and smooth off even with 
the mouthpiece. The pencil points cannot injure any¬ 
thing and are easily removed with a pin punch or drill. 

If metal is run at a low level in the metal pot the 
plunger and well will rapidly collect oxides, causing the 
plunger to become foul and stick. 

Through ignorance or carelessness the mouthpiece 
vents can be cut too deeply, and can be partly closed 
again with a small tapered centre punch, pointed upwards 
directly underneath the mouthpiece in a vertical position 
and on either side of the cross vents. Do not disfigure 
the face of the mouthpiece. 

If the metal balls up on the plunger rod, it is caused 
by the metal being worked at too low a temperature, 
or the metal is in poor condition. This will show that 
the mouthpiece is irregular in form and does not lock 
evenly against the mold so that it is necessary to turn 
down the heat of the metal to make it work without 
squirting between the mold and mouthpiece. A low tem¬ 
perature will make the metal somewhat thick in body. 
A high temperature will thin the metal so that if the 
mouthpiece and mold contact are not even back squirts 
will result. Even with a good contact of mouthpiece 
with the mold and rapid operation on large slugs some¬ 
times a ball will form on the plunger rod. 

Six-point slugs should have a 560-575 degree tempera¬ 
ture; twelve and fourteen-point slugs work better be¬ 
tween 525-540 degree temperature. These figures are 
merely given to furnish a point from which to work. 
Operating slowly is the only way in which large slugs 
can be produced. Even then after a few casts the bot¬ 
toms of the slugs may be hollow or have the appearance 
of what is called “bleeding feet.” 



XIII. 


ELECTRIC METAL POTS 


T HE ELECTRIC metal pot is almost universally 
in use now since the heating devices employed on 
them have been perfected to a place where their 
operation is reliable. Probably three-fourths of the new 
machines being shipped are equipped with the electric 
pot, according to figures obtainable. 

The two principal devices now on the market are the 
General Electric, applied to intertypes, and the Mergen- 
thaler Electric, applied to linotypes. 

GENERAL ELECTRIC POT 
The General Electric heating equipment is composed 
of three elements, one on either side of the crucible be¬ 
tween the crucible and the pot jacket, and one throat 
heating element which is placed underneath the throat 
of the crucible. 

The two side heating or crucible elements are con¬ 
trolled by a thermostat, the expansion rod of which is 
immersed directly in the metal, and throws the current 
on or off as the temperature of the metal varies. A 
relay switch connected with the thermostat, and the heat¬ 
ing elements controlled by the thermostat, governs the 
flow of current to the elements. The thermostat is ad¬ 
justable for temperature range and variations and when 
once set will operate automatically, providing the cur¬ 
rent is fairly constant. 

The heating units explained above are made from 
sheathed or nichrome wire, which has tremendous heat 
resisting qualities. The wire is covered with a steel 
casing and between the wire and casing there is an in¬ 
sulating material, magnesium oxide in powder form, com¬ 
pressed into shape with the wire and sheath or casing. 

The side heating elements and the one underneath the 
crucible throat fit into steel pockets which are just large 
enough to accommodate the elements snugly. These ele¬ 
ments are coiled to fit the contour of the crucible and the 
ends or terminals are fastened to clamps or bridging at 
the front side of the pot jacket. The terminal box has 
tU4] 


Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


115 


a cover, which should be lined with 1 /16" asbestos sheet¬ 
ing. The asbestos may be cemented with silicate of soda 
after being cut to the proper shape. This will prevent 
possible trouble by keeping the iron cover from coming 
directly in contact with the terminals. 

The temperature of the metal in the crucible is kept 
constant by the thermostat. It should be borne in mind 
that the elements around the crucible are controlled sep¬ 
arately and distinctly from the mouthpiece element. The 
mouthpiece element is controlled by the amount of cur¬ 
rent flowing through the rheostat in the panel box at the 
rear of the machine. This panel box on the latest ma¬ 
chines is mounted at the side of the machine just under 
the metal pot and has the snap switch and rheostat for 
controlling the mouthpiece on the front side of the panel 
box. The rheostat handle is turned to the left or counter 
clockwise to secure more heat at the mouthpiece. The 
smaller the slug the more it will be turned counter 
clockwise. Small slugs require more heat on the mouth¬ 
piece than the large sizes, because there is not as much 
metal flowing through the mouthpiece to radiate heat and 
raise the temperature of the parts being used, especially 
the mouthpiece and mold. The larger the slug, the fur¬ 
ther to the right or clockwise should the rheostat lever 
be turned. It is well to set the rheostat lever or handle 
so the pointer will be about five or six buttons from 
extreme hot position so that in case of a temporary chill 
in the mouthpiece jets the rheostat lever can be turned 
to the last button for a while to heat up the mouthpiece 
and then turned back again. Extreme heat on the mouth¬ 
piece element will also affect the temperature of the 
metal in the pot, to some extent, and this should be 
taken into consideration. 

The crucible elements which keep the metal molten and 
maintain it at a certain temperature, are controlled by a 
distinct system and are separate from the mouthpiece 
rheostat control. The thermostat controlling the pot 
elements proper is worked by an expansion rod, made of 
aluminum, which is immersed in the metal and responds 
to the slightest change in temperature. It will contract 
or expand lengthwise and bear against or recede from 
the thermostat lever which is mounted above the expan¬ 
sion rod. This lever is pivoted with two ball bearings 



116 


Linotypes and Intertypes 



Fig. 31. 






































Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


117 


near its base and is free to rock back and forth accord¬ 
ing to the contraction or expansion of the aluminum rod. 

This lever has a pair of contacts at its upper end and 
either makes contact with one or the other of two con¬ 
tact screws mounted in the upper end of the thermostat. 
The contact points in the thermostat lever are tipped 
with tungsten metal which does not rapidly burn off from 
the small arc that takes place when the actual contact 
takes place. The contacts are connected by wires in a 
swinging cable connected with the relay switch in the 
panel box. As the rod lengthens when the temperature 
of the metal rises the lever is gradually forced away 
from the “B” contact, which first made the relay switch 
throw in. When the rod has expanded sufficiently the 
lever touches the other contact, or “A” point, the relay 
switch will throw out, turning off the current from the 
two pot heating elements. The thermostat lever will not 
touch the “hot” contact again until the aluminum rod has 
shrunk sufficiently to allow it to swing over far enough 
to touch the “B” point again. There is a small spring, 
h, Fig. 31, mounted in the thermostat case which bears 
against the thermostat lever. As the rod shrinks this 
spring will urge the lever over to the “B” contact that 
makes the connection through the closing coil, which in 
turn closes the relay switch and permits the pot elements 
to heat the metal again. This spring serves another pur¬ 
pose—it prevents the thermostat lever from swinging or 
shaking back and forth during the operation of the ma¬ 
chine, due to vibration. If this spring were not present 
the contacts would soon burn off through arcking at the 
A and B contacts. It should have iust enough tension 
to overcome any vibration caused by the motion of the 
pot movements. 

In caring for the electric pot, some troubles arising 
will be electrical while others will be purely mechanical. 

Occasionally, say every six weeks, remove the thermo¬ 
stat from the machine for the purpose of cleaning and 
lubrication. It need not be emphasized, after a little 
thought, that the steel ball pivots will become rusty or 
“gritty” in their sockets, and cause the lever to stick, 
which may result in a burned out opening coil. 

The thermostat can be removed from the pot by turn¬ 
ing off the current; then disconnect the A-B-C terminals 
on the thermostat. Unscrew the four large screws (one 



118 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


on each corner) that hold the base to the pot Then lift 
out the thermostat and take it to a suitable place where 
the body can be removed from the base by unscrewing 
the two round head screws in the center of the flange. 
See that the expansion rod is not warped and also that 
it centers in the hole in the base plate. If this hole has 
not been slightly countersunk it is a good idea to do it 
while cleaning the thermostat. Also smooth the inside 
of the hole. 

Remove the contact cover and the adjustment cover. 
Lift out the thermostat lever spring. Remove the bind¬ 
ing nut from the C terminal and the fibre insulating 
washer. Lay the thermostat body on its side and turn 
out the front pivot adjusting screw. It is not necessary 
to loosen the left-hand pivot adjusting screw except when 
new contact points are applied and it is necessary to 
center the lever points on the contact screws. The lever 
will now drop out when the thermostat body is raised. 
Watch the pivot balls that they do not roll away. 

While the lever is out see that the contact points are 
not loose on the lever. If they are loose the little brass 
rivets can be tightened to spread the heads. If these 
rivets are hammered down too much the rivet will bend 
where it passes through the fibre insulating bushing in 
the lever and crack the bushing, shown at c, Fig. 31. 

Look at the tungsten contact points to see that they are 
not too badly pitted, as well as the contact screws, A 
and B. 

Next polish the ball point, i, of the adjusting screw 
while holding the lever in the hand, and rubbing vigor¬ 
ously on a cloth laid on the bench top. There is a small 
amount of friction between the ball point and the cap 
of the thermostat expansion rod Polish the top or cap 
of the rod. If it appears rough, stone it down smooth 
and finish with metal polish to obtain as glassy a sur¬ 
face as possible. This polishing is important. 

If you have reason to believe that the ball point of 
the adjusting screw is not perfectly spherical where it 
has contact with the expansion rod, put the screw in a 
chuck, and while spinning at high speed, hold a block 
against it, the block to have a very fine emery cloth over 
it. You can shape the ball point until the fiat spot has 
disappeared. Put some metal polish on a small pine 
block and burnish the ball. 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


119 


Return the adjusting screw to place and see that the 
copper plug, e, is in place between the binding screw, f, 
and the adjusting screw, d. This plug is placed there to 
prevent chafing the threads of the adjusting screw when 
the binding screw, f, is turned up to prevent the adjust¬ 
ing screw working loose. 

Rub dry graphite over the expansion rod cap and the 
ball point of the adjusting screw. This will assist the 
sensitive operation of the parts. 

Brush out the inside of the thermostat body case. 

Put some graphite grease in the pivot adjusting screw 
ball sockets, the ball sockets, q, and also on the threads 
of all the screws that have been removed. The heat can 
not then stick the screws tightly after the thermostat has 
been on the pot for some time and it is found necessary 
to remove it. The grease will soon burn off, leaving 
the graphite to lubricate the pivots. 

Put a pivot ball in the pivot screw in the thermostat 
body and the other one in the pivot screw that has been 
removed. The graphite grease will hold them in place 
until the adjustment is made. Pass the lever into the 
body and guide the C wire screw which hangs on the 
thermostat lever and is connected to it by the small 
magnet wire, so that the screw will drop into its proper 
hole in the body case. 

Adjust the pivot screw until there is a small amount 
of play sideways between the lever and the balls. This 
can be determined by grasping the lever between the 
thumb and finger, and while moving it back and forth at 
right angles with the contacts, note the amount of play. 
The front pivot screw can be set up accordingly. The 
smaller the amount of play the more sensitive will be 
the operation of the thermostat when passing from min¬ 
imum to maximum temperature. This adjustment is fin¬ 
ished when the thermostat has become thoroughly heated 
after returning to place on the pot. Lost motion is to be 
avoided as is also friction, and this can best be set while 
the thermostat is hot. 

Next pass very fine emery cloth (00 grain) between 
the thermostat lever contacts and the A and B contact 
screws to brighten and fit them to good contact. 

In Fig. 31 the small magnet wire that furnishes cur¬ 
rent for the completion of the circuit to either the open¬ 
ing or closing coils, is shown looped between the B side 



120 


Linotypes and Inter types 


of the lever (closing coil) and the body casing. The 
wire when arranged with tweezers can be looped as 
shown so that it won’t come into contact with any of the 
parts where it might do some damage. It is a good idea 
to string small glass beads on this wire to prevent any 
possibility of its touching the thermostat casing and 
causing a short circuit. 

If you have previously inserted the stem and base on 
the pot the thermostat can be quickly connected. If the 
metal has solidified, do not turn the base screws up tight 
until the metal has melted again. 

When adjusting the thermostat for temperature the 
metal pot should be normally full. 

After the parts are thoroughly heated, on account of 
expansion, the pivot adjustment can be completed by 
turning off the current, and moving the lever at right 
angles with its axis for lost motion, and noting whether 
the lever readily moves from one contact to the other 
for friction. This is a delicate adjustment and can be 
readily made after a few trials. 

Do not attempt pivot or temperature adjustments while 
the ball point of the temperature adjusting screw is 
being pressed by the expansion rod. To be safe, never 
make these adjustments unless the thermostat lever con¬ 
tact point is touching the B contact screw. 

Now put the thermostat spring, h, in place and the ad¬ 
justment cover with its screw. 

Turn on the switch again and watch the thermometer 
as the thermostat lever works back and forth between 
the contacts. When the metal increases in temperature 
the expansion rod lengthens and moves the lever over 
to the A contact and throws open the relay switch which 
shuts off the current to the heating elements. As the rod 
shrinks, due to lowering temperature of the metal in the 
pot. the lever spring will force the lever over until the 
right-hand contact touches the B terminal screw when 
the closing coil will energize and throw the switch in 
to heat the metal again. 

Turning the temperature adjusting screw clockwise 
lowers the heat, turning it counter clockwise raises the 
heat. 

After the temperature adjustment is complete see that 
the binding screw is tight (the screw that holds the lever 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


121 


or temperature adjusting screw from working loose) and 
replace the adjustment and contact covers. 

Should the metal in the pot reach a high temperature, 
say 700 or 800 degrees, it is possible for the thermostat 
lever adjusting screw and the pivot bearings to become 
dead-centered, or to be so nearly in a vertical line that 
the leverage caused by the expansion rod agains the 
ball point of the adjusting screw is so small as to cause 
the lever to stick. The swing of the leverage between 
the A and B contacts represents the multiplied leverage 
exerted from the center of the pivot, represented by the 
line 1, to the center of the ball point, represented by the 
line, 2, of the temperature adjusting screw. It can be 
easily understood how important it is to have the ball 
point of the screw perfectly spherical and the cap of 
the expansion rod perfectly smooth and polished. There 
is a small amount of friction between the two parts 
when the rod is moving the lever over to the A contact 
to shut off the current in the pot heating elements. If 
the thermostat lever does not work satisfactorily after 
lubricating and adjusting the pivots correctly, and the 
ball point and cap are in good order, it will probably be 
necessary to change the line of leverage so the pivot and 
ball point will be off-center, as represented by the line 2. 
This can be accomplished by turning out on the A con¬ 
tact screw and moving the B contact screw in a corre¬ 
sponding distance. 

As a rule a space of 1 /32 inch between the lever con¬ 
tact and the A or B contact will operate the tempera¬ 
ture of the metal in the pot from a maximum to a mini¬ 
mum of 10 degrees. That is, if the lever makes the B 
contact at 550 degrees it will shut off the heat at 560 
degrees. 

If an opening coil becomes overheated it can be caused 
by a thermostat lever, the pivots of which are set up 
so tight as to interfere with the lever movements. Neg¬ 
lect in lubricating the lever pivots as explained above 
will stiffen the action of the lever. 

If one of the pot elements becomes grounded it will 
affect the opening coil and burn it. In this case an arc 
will take place between the lever and the A contacts, 
the current jumping the gap when the lever is rocked 
by hand. 



122 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


If the relay switch does not drop out when the A ther¬ 
mostat connection is made, the opening coil will overheat. 

When the relay switch is thrown there should be a 
space of about l /% inch between the closing coil contact 
post springs and the relay connecting stud. This will 
insure that the current in the closing coil is not broken 
until the latch has fallen to hold the switch arm in place. 
If the springs rest on the stud when the switch is closed 
the closing coil will overheat. 

The opening and closing coils are not built to carry 
current for any length of time. Being of fine wire they 
soon heat to a high temperature if the current is not 
broken. 

The calibrating cam under the relay switch regulates 
the strength with which the opening coil plunger strikes 
the magnet core in order to release the latch and drop 
the relay switch arm. The lower the cam is set the 
stronger will be the stroke of the plunger. The plunger 
can be set so low as not to be attracted by the magnetism 
and the opening coil may overheat. The higher the 
position of the cam the softer the stroke of the plunger 
when the coil is energized. If the cam is set too high 
the motion or vibration of the machine turning over will 
frequently cause the plunger to throw out the switch 
arm. Lower the cam a little at a time until the plunger 
is stationary against the machine motions. If the cali¬ 
brating cam is turned down too far, the plunger, which 
rests on the cam, might crack the pin in the magnet core 
collar against which the plunger strikes when throwing 
out the switch. See that the calibrating cam lock spring 
rests on the knurled calibrating screw with sufficient ten¬ 
sion to hold the screw adjustment stationary. 

If the thermostat lever spring is weak the vibration 
resulting from the machine in motion will make and 
break the lever contacts and throw the switch in and 
out, as well as burning the lever contacts. 

If the metal pot breaks away hard from the slug, 
broach out the jets in the mouthpiece so the jerking of 
the pot will be stopped. A hard break-away here will 
chatter the thermostat lever to such an extent that it will 
cause unnecessary arcking between the thermostat lever 
and A and B contacts, and throw the switch in and out. 

Once a week clean the relay contacts with fine sand¬ 
paper. 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


123 


Occasionally remove the closing coil contact post 
springs and brighten the spots where the spring block 
connects with relay connecting stud. 

If, for any reason, a new cable is applied, be sure to 
solder the C-switch-2 wire connecting splice. Solder pre¬ 
serves the joint against oxidation. Enough oxidation in 
time will cause a joint to become a poor current carry¬ 
ing medium. Solder also holds a joint from possibly 
working loose. There is also another soldered joint from 
the rheostat connecting the No. 3 wire, behind the slate 
in the panel box. 

It is intended by the manufacturers that there shall 
be a space of 9/16" between the relay opening coil con¬ 
tact post and the tripping lever contact tips. As the con¬ 
tacts wear the space will be gradually widened to more 
than 9/16". This can be corrected by adjusting or re¬ 
newing the contacts. The nuts back of the slate base 
can be removed or loosened. The 9/16" space referred 
to above is intended to be maintained when the switch 
arm is open. 

A broken “B” wire in the thermostat cable will cause 
the metal to freeze. A broken “A” wire will cause the 
metal to overheat. A broken “C’' wire may cause either 
freezing or overheating. Avoid handling the A, B or C 
wires roughly, especially a twisting motion. 

If either the opening or closing coils have been over¬ 
heated they should be tested to see if they are still in 
proper operating condition. Disconnect the leads from 
their terminals and with a test lamp test the coil by hold¬ 
ing each end of the test wires on the terminals. If this 
test does not prove satisfactory, hooking the coil up again 
and trying to operate from it in the regular way will 
show whether it is all right. The opening coil, if burned 
out, will not throw the switch out when the thermostat 
lever touches the A contact; the closing coil, if burned 
out, will not close the switch arm when the thermostat 
lever touches the B contact in the thermostat. 

If the insulating material has dropped away from the 
1-2-3 wires in the terminal box at the side of the metal 
pot trouble will be had with either shorts or grounds if 
the wires touch the iron part of the metal pot. If a short 
is present a fuse will blow. If a. ground is present an 
arc will occur when the thermostat lever leaves its con¬ 
tacts and the metal will continue to heat. 




124 


Linotypes and Inter types 


LINOTYPE ELECTRIC POT 

The greater part of the linotype electric metal heating 
equipment is made by the manufacturers of the linotype. 

There are four electrical heating units in this outfit—* 
two pot crucible heating elements, one throat heater and 
one mouthpiece heater. These are suitably connected 
with the dynamic themometer and the panel box which 
contains the magnetic switch, coils and fuses. 

The two crucible heating elements are immersed di¬ 
rectly in the metal, while the mouthpiece and throat 
heaters are clamped on the top and bottom of the cruci¬ 
ble throat. 

The temperature of the metal is steadily maintained by 
the dynamic thermometer, having a tube filled with mer¬ 
cury, partly submerged in the metal, the contraction and 
expansion of which through the coiled part of the tube, 
(much after the fashion of a clock spring), operates the 
contact lever, energizing the coils in the panel box and 
causing the switch to throw in or out, thus making or 
breaking the contacts for the current which flows through 
the crucible heating elements. 

The dynamic thermometer is adjustable to operate and 
maintain the metal in the crucible at a greater or less 
maximum or minimum according to the work being done 
on the machine. The average working temperature of 
linotype metal is 550 degrees. A small slug such as 5- 
or 6-point, might require 580 degrees. A 12- or 14-point 
slug will require a somewhat lower temperature due to 
the amount of heat radiated while the machine is being 
operated, sometimes the temperature required being as 
low as 525 degrees. The thermometer is adjustable to 
secure the proper heat by means of a screw on the front 
side of the dynamic thermometer near the bottom. If 
the adjusting screw be turned to the right, the dynamic 
thermometer will permit the current to flow through the 
heaters until the mercury has expanded and pushed the 
thermometer contact lever to the cold contact. This will 
raise the heat of the metal. To lower the temperature 
of the metal turn the adjusting screw to the left. 

It is a necessity to have a thermometer in the metal 
when adjusting in order to determine the correct temper¬ 
ature. The best results are not obtained by guessing at 
the temperature or working at too high a temperature. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


125 


When the temperature of the metal reaches the mini¬ 
mum for which the dynamic thermometer has been set, 
the contact lever will be touching the low or cold contact 
at the left. As the metal heats, the lever will swing to 
the right-hand contact and will throw the switch in the 
panel box out and break the current as soon as it touches. 

Once a week clean the dynamic thermometer contact 
points with fine sandpaper. A small sparking here dur¬ 
ing the operation of the pot will corrode the contact 
points. This corrosion, if thick enough, will prevent the 
coils in the panel box from being energized, which in 
turn will not operate the magnetic switch in or out. 

Mounted on the contact lever is a small flat spring or 
brake, which holds the contact lever steady against the 
vibrations of the metal pot during operation, prevents 
sparking and consequent smutting of the contacts and 
also prevents the contact lever from touching contacts 
too soon. The spring tension should be sufficient to hold 
the contact lever steady and no more. If too strong, 
the brake spring will interfere with the expansion and 
contraction of the coiled mercury tube. 

There is a device on the contact lever which is de¬ 
signed, for example, to prevent the contacts being in¬ 
jured when the metal bocomes very cold or solidified. 
An insulated pin enters between the spring leaves of the 
contact lever from the rear of the thermometer. This 
pin is fitted with a roller head and when the pot is at 
operating temperature, this roller should touch both 
spring leaves on either side, doing away with lost motion 
and causing the lever to operate upon the least expan¬ 
sion or contration of the mercury in the coil. The in¬ 
stant the metal becomes colder or hotter than the limits 
set by the adjusting screw, the roller on the end of the 
pin will relieve the contact points from bearing with a 
greater stress against the contacts and push the spring 
leaves away from the lever. This prevents the contact 
points from becoming bent, which would interfere with 
maintaining the metal within a maximum and minimum 
temperature of 15 degrees. 

It should be remembered, as explained elsewhere in 
this book, that the rapid casting of large slugs without 
the necessary interval between each cast, will produce 
slugs with “bleeding feet.” The reason for this is ex¬ 
plained by the fact that large slugs heat the mold to a 



126 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


higher temperature than small bodied slugs, consequent!} 
the higher the temperature of the mold, the longer it will 
require for the metal cast in the mold to solidify. The 
outside surfaces of the slugs solidify first and center or 



core becomes solid afterwards, the time required being 
dependent upon the temperature of the mold itself. 

When casting large slugs the three-heat snap switch 
on the old-style pot can be turned to “low” position, 
“medium” for general run of work, and “high” for very 





































































Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


127 


small slugs. The new style pot mouthpiece temperature 
can be regulated to any desired degree of heat by means 
of the rheostat. When casting small slugs, turning the 
rheostat handle to the right will increase the heat on the 
mouthpiece, and as the handle is turned to the left the 
temperature of the mouthpiece will be correspondingly 
lower. The range of mouthpiece temperatures with the 
rheostat control, according to size of slug being cast, is 
very great. 

In the drawing, Fig. 32, ttt represents the asbestos in¬ 
sulating packing, to prevent radiation of heat and con¬ 
fine it entirely towards the inside of the crucible. 

The metal feed holes under the plunger and inside the 
crucible well are represented at g. These holes should 
be cleaned daily with the plunger. 

The contact disks in the dynamic thermometer should 
be polished at least every two weeks, using fine sand¬ 
paper for this purpose. 

If a disk has a large pitted spot burned in its surface 
turn the disk slightly to secure a new surface and tighten 
the nut again. 

Should one of the contact points drop off, bend the re¬ 
maining contact point on the contact lever straight up 
and down and let it do the work until time can be had 
to apply new points to the contact lever. 

When putting in a new mercury tube and shifting the 
plate won’t position the coiled end of the mercury tube 
correctly, grasp the tube near the center and well up into 
the coil with a pair of flat-nosed pliers, gently bend the 
coil the way it should go until the roller pin is vertically 
in line with the contact lever supporting pin, or the con¬ 
tact lever tips are reasonably in position between the 
disks as they were before, after the metal has reached 
normal temperature. This operation applies to an over¬ 
heated pot that has been detected before the mercury 
burst from the tube. 

If the roller on the pin that works between the spring- 
leaves of the contact lever should drop off there will be 
a great variation in temperature between maximum and 
minimum, because the pin will travel farther between 
the spring leaves before causing the contacts to touch 
the disks and shut off or turn on the power. 

Occasionally look after the clapper switch contact 
points and fingers and clean them, to insure good passage 




128 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


of current; also clean the maintaining contact at the 
left of the breaker. 

There is a resistance coil, which on the Cutler-Ham¬ 
mer pot is mounted back of the slate in the panel box, 
and on the Mergenthaler or new-style pot is mounted 
alongside of the switch in the panel box. This coil pre¬ 
vents a full amount of current passing through the 
dynamic thermometer lever and contacts, and also re¬ 
duces the amount of current passing through the mag¬ 
netic switch coil just back of the contact fingers and 
which also draws the fingers in when contact is made 
in the dynamic thermometer. 

In the old-style or Cutler-Hammer magnetic switch 
there is mounted a blow-out coil at the top of the mag¬ 
netic switch frame. This coil reduces the sparking when 
the magnetic switch fingers open after the metal has 
reached the proper temperature. Naturally the contact 
points and fingers where they touch each other do not 
become smutted or corroded readily, thus keeping the 
contacts clean. 

At the left-hand side of the switch there is mounted 
what is called a maintaining contact. It operates with 
a spring contact. This prevents the dynamic thermo¬ 
meter contact lever carrying current when the magnetic 
switch is closed and reduces the arcking at the magnetic 
switch contacts when the switch flies open. 

Metal splashed on the heater terminals, due to careless 
dropping of pigs into the pot, or an overflowing feeder 
causing the metal to run over to the terminals, is the 
most common source of trouble, in that it grounds the 
circuit and blows fuses. This overrunning metal may 
also filter down the side of the crucible to the throat 
heater terminals, which are fixed at the bottom of the 
pot. Occasionally a crucible will develop an open pore 
in the iron, or a crack, and permit metal to reach the 
throat heater terminals. 

Careless use of screwdriver, metal hook or the jam¬ 
ming of pigs into the crucible in the vicinity of the 
dynamic thermometer mercury tube, i, Fig 32, will break 
or puncture the tube and let the mercury out, in which 
case the metal will overheat because the mercury cannot 
expand the tube and move the contact lever over to shut 
off the current. If detected in time the mercury can be 
seen bubbling on the surface of the metal. 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


129 


If the dynamic thermometer should become grounded 
at the terminals, necessitating removal, or for any other 
cause, the metal can be kept in a molten state by seeing 
that the terminals to the thermometer are clear of any 
contact with pot or machine parts. Throw in the switch 
manually and block switch to contact with a wood block. 
This will permit replacing the thermometer and mercury 
bulb when ready. 

If one of the pot heating element casings, h, should 
leak and allow metal to enter inside the casing the ele¬ 
ment will short circuit the heater and ground the pot. In 
case one of the pot crucible heaters is damaged, the metal 
can be kept molten with the other cne on 110-volt cir¬ 
cuits. 

A magneto can be used to ring out the elements. Dis¬ 
connect the heaters from their terminals. Touch one 
wire from the magneto to one heater wire, and the other 
magneto wire to the casing of the element. This is best 
done while the element is in the crucible. Removal of the 
element sometimes can break the connection the type 
metal makes with the heater casing and the heating rib¬ 
bon in the element. 

When testing wiring system or elements with the mag¬ 
neto, always have the main switch turned off. 

If it is necessary to remove and replace the heating ele¬ 
ments, dip out metal from crucible, turn off current, re¬ 
move the plunger, take off the pot cover, disconnect the 
elements to be removed from their terminals. 

If the crucible heater or heaters are to be removed, 
take out the clamp at the back edge of the crucible and 
lift out the element. If the inside crucible heater is to 
be removed, it can be lifted out singly. If the outside 
crucible heater is to be removed, both crucible heaters 
will have to be lifted out. 

The pot mouth element, k, may be removed by un¬ 
screwing the nuts on the U-shaped clamp bolt, j, take off 
the plate which is on top of the element. Before replac¬ 
ing, clean the crucible where the heater lies free from 
all asbestos, replace the plate and screw up the nuts. 
When the pot parts are assembled again, mix some asbes¬ 
tos and water to a thick paste and close in the space be¬ 
tween the top of the crucible mouthpiece and the pot 
cap, or cover. 



130 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


To remove the throat heater, m, take off the throat 
heater terminal cover, Fig. 32, underneath the pot, take 
out the asbestos cloth terminal cover, disconnect th 
terminals, f. The pot cover being off, loosen the two 
nuts on the U-shaped bolt at the top of the'crucible. 
These two nuts tighten the bolt which holds the mout 
element and the throat elements snugly in place The bolt, 
shown at j, passes from the upper side of the crucible 
down around the throat element clamping plate and up 
again on the other side of the crucible. After loosening 
the two nuts in order to release pressure of the clamping 
plate underneath the throat heating element, loosen the 
screw which comes through a hole in the pot jacket be¬ 
tween the pot legs at the front of the pot, shown at o, 
scrape off the asbestos packing from underneath the 
mouthpiece until the passageway for the element is clear. 
With a pair of pliers and a little jogging with a piece of 
wood, from the terminal opening underneath the pot, the 
heater can be pulled upwards and out. 

In replacing the throat heater, push it down through 
the opening carefully into place. Tighten nuts on the 
U-shaped clamp bolt, j, and the screw in the hole in the 
front of the pot jacket. Connect the terminals, replace 
the asbestos cloth cover, the throat heater terminal cover, 
and after the pot cover has been put on, cover the ele¬ 
ment underneath the mouthpiece with asbestos cement. 

In replacing wires from the panel box to the pot use 
asbestos covered wire. Rubber covered wire soon burns 
or chafes off. 

For information relative to adjustment of the screws, 
a, b, c, and d, Fig. 32, see that part of gas pot adjustment 
in this chapter. Their function and adjustment is the 
same as for the electric pot. 






XIV. 


EJECTOR SLIDE AND BLADE 


T HE EJECTING apparatus on line casting ma¬ 
chines requires occasional attention to keep it in 
working order. 

Probably the most common effects of an ejector out of 
order will be noticed in the slugs delivering with the 
bottom end tilted up or shooting out on the floor on 
those machines using the old-style slug galley. 

Invariably when a slug delivers with the bottom end 
tilted up or the top end falls over, the knife block spring 
plate is leaded through friction with slugs passing 
through, or the spring plate is kinked or bent, or possibly 
the spring plate spring bears with more tension on one 
end than the other. Straighten the spring plate, by hold¬ 
ing a straight-edge or straight piece of rule on it and 
hold it up to the light so that you can look between the 
plate and the rule. Remove the coating of lead from the 
spring plate and the place on the vise frame opposite the 
position where the spring plate rests against it. Also 
weaken the tension on the spring plate spring to a point 
where it will just throw the spring plate over against 
the vise frame casting and no more. Have the top and 
bottom ends of the spring exert the same amount of 
pressure against the spring plate. 

If the slugs shoot out on the floor it will be an indi¬ 
cation that the ejector lever and slide are not being held 
frictionally on the delivery stroke and run ahead of the 
stroke of the ejector cam. 

LINOTYPE OLD-STYLE EJECTOR SLIDE 
On linotypes not equipped with the new style universal 
ejector slide, the slide itself is provided with a buffer 
spring and rod mounted in the front end of the slide. 
This rod and spring, on the forward stroke of the ejector 
retard or cushion the stroke of the slide, and prevent it 
running ahead of the action of the ejector cam. This 
spring will crack at times and allow the slide to over¬ 
throw. In the end of the mold slide just back of the mold 
disk, right-hand side, is an ejector guide. In this guide 
[131] 


132 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


is mounted a steel pressure bar, faced with a brass strip. 
The brass being softer than the steel ejector blades will 
not cut the blades and is urged against the blade by two 
steel coil springs mounted in the bracket. This brass 
strip will, in time, wear out and no longer perform its 
duty of frictionally holding the ejector blade stead)' on 
its forward stroke. This will result in the slugs being 
delivered too far and cause them to fall out on the floor. 
Renew the brass strip. Of course, it is possible for the 
ejector lever pawl adjusting screw to be out of adjust¬ 
ment. If the adjusting screw is run out, the pawl will 
be set so low as to allow the ejector blade to push the 
slug too far into the stick. Normally the screw is set 
so that the end of the ejector blade will come about 1/32" 
forward or in front of the edge of the chase channel or 
stick 

If the ejector cam screw (the screw that holds the cam 
on the mold slide cam) works loose, the ejector blade 
cannot push the slugs far enough into the stick. 

It is a simple matter to renew the ejector slide buffei 
spring. Run the machine around until it is in second 
position, i. e., the first elevator down on the vise cap, then 
lower the vise to second position. Disconnect the ejector 
slide link and ejector lever by taking out the wing pin, 
lift out the link, then pull out the mold slide far enough 
to remove the ejector slide itself. The buffer spring 
can easily be replaced by driving out the pin in the rod. 

If the top and bottom screws in the ejector guide work 
loose, the ejector blade is likely to deliver the slugs too 
far into the stick. 

INTERTYPE EJECTOR BUFFER 

The intertype originally had an ejector buffer device 
similar to the earlier linotypes. The present intertype 
ejector buffer device is mounted on the ejector slide link 
and has two eye screws mounted directly on the link. 
The buffer rod and spring are held in place between the 
two eye screws. To renew the spring is an easy process. 
Take out the wing pin which connects the link to the 
ejector lever, take out the link. Drive out the pin in 
the ejector buffer rod. The spring can then easily be 
replaced. 

As in the linotype, misadjustment of the screw in the 
ejector lever pawl will affect the delivery of the slugs. 
Set the screw in the pawl so that the ejector blade will 
clear the end of the type stick about 1 /32". The screw 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


133 


in the ejector cam working loose will prevent the slugs 
from being pushed far enough forward into the stick. 

REPLACING EJECTOR PAWL 

Sometimes through abuse or crystallization, the ejector 
lever pawl will crack off. Replacing the pawl is not as 
difficult a process as at first thought it will appear to be 
Proceed as follows: 

Back the machine until the ejector lever can be pushed 
forward. Unscrew the ejector lever adjustable pawl nut, 
disconnect the pawl spring from the pawl. Start turning 
the screw until it is part way out, then push forward on 
the lever until the screw head is in front of the recess 
in the mold slide cam. The screw can then be turned 
out with the head in the cam recess and the pawl re¬ 
moved. 

Occasionally the facing on the ejector lever adjustable 
pawl will need renewing, because the corner where the 
cam strikes the facing will have become rounded off. 

When replacing the pawl, the pawl spring can easily 
be held in position with a loop of cord until the screw 
that attaches the spring to the pawl has been started. 

SOME CAUSES FOR “STUCK” SLUGS 

Dirty molds. 

Warped mold cap. 

Metal between mold cap and liners, or between liners 
and mold body. 

Liners that have thrown up a burr on the front inside 
corner; can be detected by looking at ends of slugs to see 
if they are bright. 

Hot metal. Ejector blade will sink into “bleeding 
foot” of slug. 

Porous slugs, due to any of the causes enumerated in 
metal pot chapter. 

Weak clutch spring. 

Oily clutch leathers. 

No play between forked lever and collar. 

Very dull trimming knives. 

Low metal level in pot. 

Jammed or abused ejector blade. 

Metal temperature not high enough when 30-em mea¬ 
sure is being cast on small faces. 

Knife wiper does not drop low enough on linotypes, 



134 Linotypes and Inter types 

due to metal chips packing around rod at bottom of vise 
casting. 

INCLINED GALLEY 

On linotypes and intertypes fitted with the new style 
inclined galley, slugs slide by gravity after ejection down 
a chute into the galley. It is as important to polish that 
slug delivery chute daily as it is to polish spacebands. 
Use a soft pine stick and regular graphite mold polish to 
remove the lead coating which accumulates on the slide. 
Maintain the ejector lever pawl adjustment so that the 
ejector blade will push the slug past the lower knife 
block liner about 1/32". 

See that ejector lever cam screw is tight and if neces¬ 
sary put a string or cord washer under the screw head. 
If the cam is loose the ejector won’t push the slugs over 
the end of the lower knife block liner. 

See also that chips and dirt do not pack tightly into 
the front ends of the milled slots in mold slide casting 
just back of the mold disk. 

LINOTYPE UNIVERSAL EJECTOR 

The linotype universal ejector consists of a series of 
narrow 5-point steel strips, the first or bottom one as a 
rule being a four-em piece and the balance 13 two-em 
sections, mounted on top of one another, a total of which 
will make a 30-em blade. The ones not being used for 
any measure less than 30 ems remain within the mold 
slide during ejection of the slugs. 

In the linotype universal ejector slide there is no ejector 
guide pressure bar, as in the old style ejector device. 
The guide is a flat plate without any side spring friction, 
as it fits quite snugly against the blades. In the rear 
end of this guide, there is, however, a buffer spring, and 
a buffer or spring plunger. These are sunk into the guide 
and held in place by a screw bushing. If for any reason 
this buffer or plunger does not work the screw bushing 
can be removed and the spring and plunger taken out. 
If the spring is cracked, renew it. When returning to 
place, oil the buffer or plunger. 

To remove the mold slide for repairs or cleaning pro¬ 
ceed as follows: 

1. Set ejector blade for 12 ems. 2. Run machine 
ahead to casting position, or until the first elevator rests 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


135 


on vise cap. 3. Open vise to second position 4. Lift 
out the ejector lever link. 5. Depress mold slide lever 
handle. 6. Disconnect the water hose if attached. 7. 
Push mold slide so that mold disk will be about one inch 
ahead of turning pinion. 8. Unscrew horizontal con¬ 
troller link rod under mold slide. This can be reached 
from the front and just back of the right-hand pot leg. 

9. The controller will drop down and can be lifted out. 

10. Pull mold slide about half way out. 11. Remove 
upper and lower mold disk guides. 12. Turn out the 
three large screws in mold disk plate and remove plate. 
13. The mold disk can now be lifted off. 14. Lift out 
the mold slide and place on bench. 15. Remove ejector 
slide keeper. This is the horizontal bar at bottom of 
ejector slide. 16. Lift out ejector slide. 17. Remove 
the six screws holding ejector blade guide or plate and lift 
out guide. 18. The blades can be taken out. 19. Re¬ 
move ejector blade links. 

Preserve the ejector blades and links in the order in 
which they are removed. Flush out the creases in mold 
slide casting with gasoline or coal oil, to remove all 
gritty substances and dirt. 

To reassemble reverse the above proceedings. 

When replacing the links and blades rub a thin film 
of oil on each piece as replaced. 

In some plants where any certain machine is not used 
for the composition of matter below 12 or 13 ems it is 
advantageous to have solid blades for these measures. 
These can be furnished by the manufacturer. For in¬ 
stance, two solid blades can be applied, one for 12 ems, 
and a section on top, which, in connection with the 12- 
em section, will make a 30-em ejector. 

After a long time, and also due to careless handling 
a blade or two will become shorter than the others. This 
will interfere with the successful ejection of slugs ac¬ 
cording to the blades used. It is advisable to dress off 
the longer blades so that all will be the same length. 
However, if very much stock has to be removed, it is 
better to replace the damaged blades with new ones. 

To make all ejector blade sections the same length, 
back the machine with the vise open until the ejector 
lever can be pushed forward far enough to come through 
the mold. Hold a straight edge or square on the ends 
of the blades and the longer or damaged blades can read- 




136 


Linotypes and Inter types 


ily be seen. Before using the straight edge push all the 
blades back against their links. 

In any event it is the best plan to remove the mold 
slide from the machine and do the necessary repair work 
at the bench. While the ejector slide is out inspect the 
ejector blade link stop and note if any of the tips are 
broken. If so, replace the part with a new one. 

THE INTERTYPE UNIVERSAL EJECTOR 

The intertype universal ejector is composed principally 
of a steel magazine or box mounted in the mold slide 
casting, to which is attached suitable mechanism for 
changing from one blade to another by means of con¬ 
venient locating and shifting levers from the front of 
the machine. There are ten 5-point blades in the maga¬ 
zine which selection can at any time be easily altered ac¬ 
cording to needs. 

If it is found expedient to remove the device for re¬ 
pair, alterations or merely cleaning, which will be neces¬ 
sary at intervals, proceed as follows: 

1. Set ejector to smallest blade. 2. Run machine 
ahead until the first elevator settles on the vise cap. 
3. Open vise to second position—that is, pull out the vise 
frame stud in the machine frame and let vise down until 
it is almost horizontal and rests on the vise frame stud 
again. 4. Depress mold slide lever handle. 5. Dis¬ 
connect and remove ejector lever link. 6. Pull out 
mold slide and place on bench. 7. Remove mold disk 
guard. 8. Unscrew rear mold disk stud nut. Do not 
unscrew the front nut, as this is the one that holds the 
disk to the stud or spindle. After unscrewing the rear 
nut, lift off the disk with its stud. 9. Remove ejector 
slide shield. 10. Remove mold disk scraper. 11. Remove 
front guide and cap. 12. Remove holder guide. 13. 
Remove blade right-hand keeper. 14. Remove blade 
keeper, left-hand. The screw for this will be found on 
the side which works next to the metal pot. 15. Remove 
slide, assembled. 16. Set ejector for 30 ems and lift out 
magazine, or as it is sometimes called, the blade box. 

It is not usually necessary to remove the ejector blade 
magazine slide bar. This part can be left in position in 
the mold slide and the necessary cleaning performed 
without removing it. 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


137 


While the parts are out flush the slide recesses and 
slide bars with gasoline or coal oil to wash out fine par¬ 
ticles of metal and dirt. 

Clean the inside of the magazine and also wash off 
the blades. When replacing blades in the magazine rub 
a thin film of oil on each one. 

See that the magazine side plates are not sprung out 
away from the frames. The only reason for the side 
plates becoming sprung would be the result of an opera¬ 
tor forgetting the ejector blade when changing from a 
long to a short measure. The wide blade will ram a 
liner and do some damage to the side plates of the 
magazine as well as damaging the liner. If this is the 
case, the ejector blade will become disconnected from 
the slide and remain in the forward position as the ma¬ 
chine returns to normal after the ejection of a slug. 



XV. 


TRIMMING KNIVES AND KNIFE 
BLOCKS 

T HE FOLLOWING matter relating to trimming 
knives, sharpening and setting them, commences 
with the selection of a suitable stone for lapping 
the knives. The information wanted will be found as 
the process of lapping a knife progresses. 

A new oil stone or lapping block is porous, honey¬ 
combed with fine holes, much after the fashion of a 
sponge, and before being used should receive the follow¬ 
ing treatment: 

Pour high-grade light automobile cylinder oil, about 
one pint, in a metal pan, put the stone in the oil and 
place the pan over a slow fire. Avoid letting the oil 
come to the boiling point. After a few minutes it will 
be noticed that some of the oil has been absorbed by the 
stone. The above treatment will fill the minute pores 
and prevent the surface from becoming fouled with dirt 
or particles of the stock which is being worked, providing 
a good light oil similar to “3-in-l,” “Many Use,” etc., is 
used while the work is being done. These oils are pleas¬ 
ant substitutes for coal oil, many machinists preferring 
not to use kerosene on account of its objectionable odor. 

When purchasing a stone suitable for knife work select 
one having as great a length as possible (one not less 
than 8 in. x 2 in.)—the accuracy with which lapping can 
be done will more than repay the increased cost over a 
smaller stone. These can be made to order in any shape 
or size to suit—12 in. diameter by 1 in. thick, is a satis¬ 
factory size. Lapping stones should be kept in metal 
boxes individually, each one resting on a piece of felt 
saturated with one of the above named light oils so that 
the stone will always be moistened and ready for use. 

The supply houses carrying standard size stones usually 
have convenient metal cases made especially for them. 
If you have a made-to-order block a case can be readily 
made of tinned sheet copper, allowing in height for thick¬ 
ness of felt saturated with oil at the bottom and upon 
which the block rests. A medium grit makes the best 
stone for lapping knives. 


[ 138 ] 


Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


139 


A lapping stone may be thoroughly cleansed and trued 
somewhat by sprinkling No. 120 carborundum powder on 
a level cement floor, saturating with gasoline, working the 
stone in figure 8 stroke with a wide sweep of the arms. 
This process also has a beneficial effect on the lapping 
surface in removing particles of metal and the like. 
Afterwards the stone may be immersed in a bath of gaso¬ 
line in order to float off any grit from the cement floor. 
A gasoline-and-air atomizer is probably the superior 
method of cleansing the surface of a stone after rubbing 
it on a cement floor as described above. 

The cast iron lapping block should not be less than 
V/z in. x 4 x 12 in. with 1/32 in. grooves cut at an 
angle of 45° and spaced about Ya in. apart. A double 
faced block—one with both top and bottom prepared 
for lapping, lasts twice as long and is more economical 
than a block having one side faced. 

No. 120 emery or carborundum powder is preferable. 

Gasoline is a good medium to use in connection with 
carborundum powder. After a time the block will need 
resurfacing at the machine shop, as the center will be¬ 
come hollowed out from use, and will not give good 
results. Some machinists use a piece of stereo base, 
with surface trued and charged with abrasive powder, 
but this is a short-lived device. 

The stroke employed in lapping trimming knives should 
be after the fashion of a figure 8, as follows: 

This stroke causes the abrasive to cut into the stock at 
every move. Try to use the full sweep of your block, 
but do not let the end of knife overhang any edge of 
block is the path of stroke, as this will cause the edge of 
knife to get out of true. 

TO LAP A KNIFE 

To lap a side trimming knife sprinkle No. 120 emery 
or carborundum powder over the cast iron block, then 
a Pply gasoline and at frequent intervals renew the abra¬ 
sive and more gasoline. Lap the knife with a figure 8 
stroke until all bright spots and nicks have disappeared. 
If the knives have been neglected for too long a period or 
have a deep nick, grinding at the machine shop will be 
in order. 



140 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


The knives will then be ready for the stone. Rub the 
knife bevel edge down a few strokes, then turn it oyer 
on its angle side and lap until the entire surface adja- 



Fig. 33. 

cent to the cutting edge shows bright and clear. The 
y 2 ° knives will be ready to mount in the knife block 
after making sure there are no wire edges, which can 
be removed with a few strokes of a small oil stone slip. 



Fig. 34. 


The 2° knives will require further treatment in 
order to secure a perpendicular or right-angle-with-base 
cutting edge, as follows: Use a right-angle block (90°), 
which can be purchased from slug casting machine 
manufacturers, and hold the base of the knife against the 
block, with the cutting edge of knife resting on the lap¬ 
ping block, Fig. 34. Rub the knife and block with a 
straight stroke until the knife shows from 1/64" to 
1/32" back from the edge. This treatment will pre¬ 
vent the knife from gouging into the slug. If the knife 
is rubbed first on the cast iron block it should receive 
like treatment on the stone. Lapping knives on both 
block and stone gives a more dependable cutting instru¬ 
ment. In the absence of a square block the two knives 
may be placed base to base, as shown in Fig. 35. 





Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


141 


It is almost always necessary to tip the edges of the 
knives with a stone—that is, rub the stone over the edge 
of the knife while holding slightly at an angle, the object 
being to turn the edge toward the back of the knife body. 
This will held prevent gouged slugs. 

One method of truing knives after sharpening that may 
be considered an apology for poor or uneven sharpening 
tools or careless grinding and lapping, yet sometimes a 
necessary operation, consists in casting and trimming a 
30-em slug and measuring each rib at the shoulder. If 
any ribs are found to be less in thickness than the other 
ribs, it will be caused by a hump or high place on the 
knife. This can be reduced by rubbing the spot on the 



Fig. 35. 

knife edge with a carborundum or axolite “stick,” casting 
another slug, testing, and so on until the slug ribs meas¬ 
ure alike. The knife block is opened to its widest point 
in this operation, or if this is not satisfactory to the one 
doing the work, the block may easily be removed. Be¬ 
fore taking off the block mark the spot on the knife 
with a red crayon. 

It occasionally happens that a machine will produce 
“bottled” slugs despite all efforts at a good ejection lock¬ 
up. This can often be overcome by breaking the cutting 
edge of the knives slightly by rubbing a small oil stone 
the entire length of the knife, thus turning the edge 
backwards, i. e., towards the back of the knife Gouging 
of the right-hand side-trimming knife or jumping of the 
slug when nearly trimmed are really the only two bother¬ 
some problems confronting the machinist wanting a 
square and true product, provided his knives are ground 
and lapped correctly to angle. The efficient slug-trim¬ 
ming devices on the market now do away with these 
vexatious things, at least to a great extent, and if the 
machine is in good condition an accurate slug can be 













142 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


secured. Of course, it should be borne in mind that an 
obscure cause of trouble is always a possibility. 

The writer can see absolutely no excuse for under¬ 
laying trimming knives with paper or shim stock. 

It is essential that the mold keeper plate on linotypes 
be in correct position, otherwise the tops of roman faces 
on two-letter matrices will overhang the constant edge 
of slug and present a stiff obstruction for the left-hand 
knife. The normal aligning rail on the keeper plate, 
measured from the under side of the aligning rail to 
the constant side of mold cell should be .4375". The 
aligning groove or rail for auxiliary position of matrices 
is a fixed dimension and cannot be altered. 

Before changing the ejection lock-up adjust the cast¬ 
ing lock-up by means of the eccentric in mold slide. Then 
if mold disk jumps forward when ejector blade first 
strikes base of slug it will be necessary to build up the 
right-hand locking stud washer on old-style machines 
until the mold disk banks solidly during the ejection of 
the slug. The washer referred to above is %" thick. 
If there is a great amount of back-lash in mold slide it 
may be necessary to grind off the end of right-hand lock¬ 
ing stud. On machines equipped with the upper and 
lower mold banking blocks, the same amount of material 
should be used in the upper and lower mold banking 
pieces—that is, if a 1/32" piece of material be used 
under the lower one, the same thickness must be used 
under the upper block. Underlay with additional metal 
until the wheel banks firmly during ejection. As a rule 
on late machines the slackness in the forward thrust of 
mold slide at ejection lock-up cannot occur unless there 
be a deficiency of the forward thrust in casting lock-up. 
The old trouble is obviated by placing hardened sted 
shoes in the mold slide cam crease at the proper points 
where the thrust strain is greatest. 

On multiple mold disks it will be more necessary than 
ever to maintain locking studs and stud blocks in good 
condition. The studs have a tendency to wear off from 
friction with the stud blocks, quicker than the stud 
blocks themselves. 

Before adjusting knives that work in connection with 
multiple mold disks remove all the molds and clean their 
seats, as well as inside the molds, paying special attention 
to the pockets of the disk. Return molds to place and 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


143 


proceed lining the knives. On a slightly crooked mold 
wheel that cannot be straightened it is good policy to 
place a shim or thin strip of metal between the mold and 
its seat in the pocket, in order to line all molds alike with 
the left-hand trimming knife. It is possible for a good 
machinist to remedy a wheel where all the pockets do 
not align. 

There is an abuse of slug casting machines when an 
alleged craftsman attempts to “adjust” the left-hand trim¬ 
ming knife with a steel hammer and perhaps a drift of 
some sort. Maybe he will accomplish his desired “adjust¬ 
ment”—generally he will not, to say nothing of burring 
and bowing the knife blade. There is a spring between 
the left-hand knife and the right-hand locking bushing 
block for the purpose of causing the knife to bear against 
and follow any movement of the adjusting screws. If the 
spring does not do its work, it will generally be the result 
of not having removed or adjusted the left-hand knife for 
a long period. It is a simple operation to remove and 
clean the knife, as well as its seat on the vise frame, 
polishing both with graphite. 

As a rule knives are worn out or should be abandoned 
when the spring plate lug-slots are so near the cutting 
edge that a slug will interfere with the spring plate, or 
the knives are low from grinding out a deep nick. It 
requires years and a great many regrindings for knives 
to become “thin” on the angle edge. 

The side trimming knives now made represent an angle, 
from cutting edge to base, of X A of 1°—the original 
intention being to do away with the slight right-angle- 
with-base cutting edge and prevent gouging of knife into 
rib side of slug during the process of being trimmed. 
The old style linotype knives have a 2° clearance from 
cutting edge to base, except for the above mentioned 
right-angle-with-base cutting edge which should not ex¬ 
tend more than 1/32" back from crown of knife, 
1/64" being preferable. When applying and adjusting 
the y 2 of 1° trimming knives it is sometimes almost 
an impossibility to position them so as to produce a 
slug which will not be “bottled.” In this case it is ad¬ 
visable to remove knives from the machine and lap the 
1/64" right-angle-with-base cutting edge on both left- 
and right-hand knives. If the mold banking blocks pro¬ 
trude far enough so that molds will bank rigidly against 



144 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


them during ejection of slug this will nearly always pro¬ 
duce the desired result. A bevel protractor, reading to 
degrees and possibly to minutes, should be part of every 
slug casting machine tool case. It can be used in other 
ways than for trimming knives alone. Besides such a 
tool will give the machinist confidence in himself and he 
will know just what he is getting in the way of correct 
angles when knives are reground. 

ADJUSTMENTS 

If for any reason the knife block is removed from 
the vise frame it is a good idea to thoroughly clean the 
contact or seating surfaces of both the block, the vise 
casting and upper and lower liners. Also at this time 
brush away all foreign matter and particles of metal. 
In this way the block can be removed at any time with¬ 
out altering the adjustments of the knives. 

Special attention should be given the spring plate and 
the vise casting opposite to the places where the slugs 
pass on their way to the stick. Constant friction here 
“leads” both the casting and the spring plate, and having 
been sufficiently coated causes slugs to deliver with one 
end up or the other one down. This lead deposit can be 
removed with a good metal polish. 

The tension on the spring plate spring should be just 
strong enough to hold it against the vise frame and no 
more when the knives are opened to their widest posi¬ 
tion. The spring plate should be perfectly straight, with 
no kinks or bends. Sometimes the recess in the lower 
liner on linotypes, where the spring plate hinge pin 
works, will scrape the end of the slug on its way through 
and will eventually fill with metal scrapings, thus caus¬ 
ing the plate to bind. To remedy this round off the front 
edge of the recess by means of a fine file. 

It is the usual practice in adjusting trimming knives 
to commence with the left-hand knife and adjust it so it 
will lightly scrape the constant side of slug; or, in other 
words, remove all metal fins caused by the union of 
slightly imperfect matrices and spacebands with the mold, 
or the mold face not being perfectly clean and free from 
metal, due to an inefficient front mold wiper. A wide 
slug, 30 ems in length, should be used while adjusting 
knives, at least use the widest liner in your equipment. 
It will sometimes be noticed after adjusting the right- 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


145 


hand knife that the left-hand knife will trim more than 
originally set. This knife should then be relieved from 
the slug with its adjusting screws. 

Presuming that the molds, ejection, lock-up and knife- 
block springs are in good shape, as suggested elsewhere 
in this article, and the slug is found to be “bottled,” it 
can be caused by the left-hand knife not being close 
enough to the constant side of slug while trimming, or 
the right-hand knife is not taking enough trim off the 
rib side of the slug. 

Newly ground side trimming knives should be the 
same height in relation to each other when mounted in 
the machine. 

If the machine upon which new or reground knives 
are being applied is equipped with several molds, all the 
molds should be taken out, thoroughly cleaned, and also 
clean the mold pockets in the disk, especially the mold 
seats and corners of pockets. Return the molds to place, 
bring the mold body screws to a tight bearing, then back 
them off slightly, tighten the cap screws, finally re¬ 
tighten the body screws. This will insure the molds 
being placed in the wheel as they ought to be. It is plain 
that if one mold in the disk has metal or dirt between 
the seat and pocket and the others have not, there will be 
a noticeable difference in the alignment of the slug from 
that mold with the trimming knives. The wheel being 
warped or sprung will cause trouble with the trim. 

The closer the knives are to the mold face the more 
successful will be the trim of the slug. 

MOLD LINERS 

For a long time mold liners were made only x / 2 of 
.001" less than the body size for which they were intended 
to be cast. This method of manufacture did not take 
into account the possible warpage of mold caps or a 
thin film or deposit of oxide on the inner surfaces of 
the mold cell. Today liners are made by all the com¬ 
panies with a more liberal allowance for clearance be¬ 
tween the rib surface and the slug body proper. This 
clearance varies from .001" to as much as .003" less 
than normal body size. It is a good plan to use the 
hardened mold liners in preference to the soft cold-rolled 
steel product. The hardened steel liners stay clean much 
longer, are easier to clean, and wire edges on the slug, 



146 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


due to rounded edges of the liner, do not put in their first 
appearance as soon as with the soft liners. The first 
cost is greater, but more economical in the long run. 

WARPED MOLD CAPS 

If it is difficult to set a right-hand knife so it won’t 
gouge the rib side of the slug, or the knife can’t be set 
close to body size, in all probability the mold cap is 
warped and will need to be straightened. If you are not 
equipped for this work send to the manufacturer for a 
utility mold which can be used while the warped mold is 
being repaired. 

THE BACK KNIFE 

Theoretically, the back trimming knife on slug cast¬ 
ing machines must have light contact with the mold while 
the latter is passing it. A new or freshly ground back 
knife, like the side trimming knives, must be smooth 
and without thin or wire edge and stoned to keenness. 

The blade should rest against its adjusting screws, 
then the clamping screws brought to a firm bearing, but 
not so tight as to interfere with the adjustment of the 
knife. 

A portion of the right-hand side of knife blade is not 
used to trim the slug, and does not come within the arc 
traveled by the slug while being trimmed. Some ma¬ 
chinists grind away this portion of the block, but it is 
not necessary. In composing rooms where machines re¬ 
ceive “kind” treatment back knives should work properly 
for one year at least, and possibly last two j'ears in some 
cases, without being reground. 

If the back of the mold is not kept clean and free 
from metal it will cause unnecessary wear on the knife, 
besides causing a strain on the mold turning apparatus. 
A rounded edge mold cell will allow fins or feather edges 
on slugs. If this condition is present and interferes with 
good press work, the only relief lies in having the mold 
ground slightly (if not too bad), or replacing the mold. 
A mold that is slightly less than .875" thick can be made 
to work in conjunction with the back knife, especially 
if the mold is kept in the best condition. If a slug 
calipers above .918" (type high) and the knife is next 
to touching the mold, it may be there is a coating of 
metal on the front side of the mold. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


147 


It will not be possible to produce a true type-high slug 
if the wheel is sprung badly enough that it “wobbles” 
while the mold is passing the knife. 



Metal collecting on the back knife is due to an im¬ 
proper lock-up of the metal pot or a dirty mold base. 

Before applying a new back knife, stone it in order 
to remove any wire edge left by the grinder. As a rule 
these knives are not lapped by the manufacturer of such 
parts. 

SETTING THE BACK KNIFE 
While adjusting a back knife, slacken the adjusting 
screws so that the edge of the knife will be slightly away 
from the mold base. Use a cap line of matrices and 
recast from the same line of matrices until the knife is 
adjusted. 














148 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


A 15-em liner will do, although any size from 13 ems 
up can be used. The right-hand side of the knife will 
have to be brought nearer the mold if the left-hand end 
of slug is too high and vice versa. The slug should be 
cool or the same average temperature of the room while 
taking measurements. 

Setting a base trimming knife is more or less of a 
problem for the beginner, and the accompanying sketch, 
Fig. 36, will help to give an understanding as to how 
the knife should be adjusted, also just how a slug travels 
in front of the knife while being trimmed. 

In the drawing a 30-em slug is shown. It will be 
noticed that the extreme ends, a a, of the slug are 
trimmed by the left-hand side of the knife, while the 
middle of the slug, b, passes more toward the inner part 
or right-hand side of the knife. 

In order to adjust the knife so as to trim the ends of 
the slug closer, the left-hand knife adjusting screw is 
used. If the central part of the slug needs closer trim, 
you should use the right-hand knife adjusting screw. 
When setting a knife on short measure slug the above 
description can be kept in mind and the screws adjusted 
accordingly. 

Under no circumstances allow the back knife to bind 
against the molds. 


4 



i 


Fig. 37. 

The sketch above will give an idea of the shear or 
lengthwise angle of trimming knife average on all ma¬ 
chines. This angle should be taken care of by the firm 
doing the grinding. 

TYPE SIZES 

The table below gives type and slug sizes. It depends 
to a great extent upon the wants of the individual office 
as to whether typefounders standard or the old linotype 
standard (.168" to pica) shall be used. Facts of the 









Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


149 


case are that a great many offices simply demand square 
slugs and allow the point size to trim “phat,” as much 
as .001" or .0015" to the slug. In some instances, how¬ 
ever, where jobs are to be duplicated from time to time, 
pains will have to be exercised and a standard adhered 
to. In newspaper work some “patent" copy seems to 
have an aggravating habit of being pretty close to the 
limit, for reasons which need not be discussed here, and 
frequently less than typefounders’ standard for a given 
size of type. 

There are, too, certain matrix faces where the ascend¬ 
ers and descenders have a full stroke and these faces 
need close watching and a casting and trimming apparatus 
kept in the best of condition, especially in regard to 
molds and keeper plates, to avoid cutting into the top 
and bottom curves and loops. 

In the table the Mergenthaler, typefounders and old 
slug sizes are given for the purpose of comparison. 
Many machinists use the Mergenthaler-typefounders 
standard for knife-trimming size. 

Originally the thousandth decimal (.014") was uni¬ 
versally employed as a basis for setting trimming knives, 
as well as being used in the manufacture of matrices by 
the linotype company, and owing to its long vogue is 
used to a great extent today by machinists. With the 
fine threaded setting screws now applied to all knife 
blocks it is not a difficult matter to work in the ten- 
thousandth dimension. 

SOME CAUSES FOR INCORRECTLY 
TRIMMED SLUGS 

Dull knives. 

Bowed knives. 

Left-hand knife rubbed by ejector blade. 

Incorrectly angled knives. 

Looseness in ejection lock-up. 

Multiple mold disk pocket seats not positioned correctly, 
due to sprung or warped wheel; also in relation to each 
other. 

Knives not same height. 

Right-hand knife tilts inwardly during impact with 
slug. 

Knife block mechanism not properly lubricated. 

Dirt or metal chips about knives. 



150 

S 

<v 

00 

1/1 

a 

e 

Pd 

i 

2 

3 

4 

4^ 

5 

5 K 

6 

6^4 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

18 

20 

22 

24 

26 

28 

30 

32 

34 

36 

40 

42 

45 

48 

54 

60 

66 

72 



Linotypes and Intertypes 


NAMES OF TYPE SIZES, 
OLD SYSTEM. 

Mergenthaler Type 

Body Standards. 

Decimals of an inch. 

Type Body Measure¬ 

ments. 

Decimals of an inch. 

American . 

.01383 

.01384 


.0277 


. 

Rfilliant . 

.0415 


Excelsior . 

.0553 

.05536 

Diamond . 

.0622 

.06228 

Pearl . 

.0692 

.06920 

Agate . 

.0761 

.07612 

Nonpareil . 

.0830 

.08304 

Emerald 



Minion . 

.0968 

.09688 

Brevier . 

.1107 

.11072 

Bourgeoise . 

.1245 

.12456 

Long Primer . 

.1383 

.13840 

Small Pica . 

.1522 

.15224 

Pica .. 

.1660 

.16608 


.1798 


English . 

.1937 

.19376 


.2075 


Columbian . 

.2214 

.22144 

Great Primer . 

.2490 

.24912 

Paragon . 

.2766 

.27680 

Double Small Pica. 

.3044 

.30448 

Double Pica . 

.3320 

.33216 


.3596 


Double English . 

.3874 

.39752 

Five-Line Nonpareil 

.4150 

.41520 

Double Columbian. 

.4428 

.44288 


.4703 


Double Great Primer 

.4980 

.49824 


.5532 



.5810 






.6640 



.7470 



.8300 



.9130 



.9960 











































































Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


151 


Operator forgetting to set right-hand knife handle for 
slug size. 

On old style linotype knife block, operator forgets to 
push lever handle ahead a little and then take up lost 
motion by bearing down on lever. 

Insufficient rib depth in mold cap. 

Mold not seated squarely when placed in mold disk 
pocket. 

Left-hand knife not close enough to slug to remove 
nil overhanging “draw” during trimming operation. 

Absence of right-angle-with-base edge on 2 deg. knives. 

Edge on new style knives not slightly turned out. 

Metal, paper underlays and dirt under base of knives. 
Bruises or cuts in knife body near base or screw holes. 

Knife block screws work loose. 

Worn out locking studs or stud blocks, or both. 

Mold cap ground away without a corresponding in¬ 
crease in depth of grooves. 

Mold disk moves forward when ejector blade strikes 
base of slug. 

Warped mold cap. 

THE OLD STYLE LINOTYPE KNIFE BLOCK 

The old-style knife block, originally comprehended 
trimming slugs from 5 to 12 point only, although 13 or 
14-point slugs may be trimmed by the aid of various de¬ 
vices. 

The left-hand knife is held in a fixed position, as in 
all other devices on the market today, and like the others 
is slightly adjustable for the work it is expected to do. 

The right-hand or movable knife is held in place in 
the casting by two special shoulder screws, ff, Fig. 37, 
with star-shaped friction springs interposed between the 
screw heads and the casting, so as to permit flexibility 
in the knife for quick adjustment and prevent tilting in¬ 
wardly of the knife during impact of the slug against 
the knife. The right-hand knife is urged against its 
adjusting wedge by two E-420 knife springs seated in 
lugs of the casting and corresponding holes in each end 
of the knife. The movements of the right-hand knife 
are determined by a lever, g, and a pointer correspond¬ 
ing to a scale on the knife block. The wedge-lever, 
moves the wedge perpendicularly within the limits of 
its capacity. The wedge, c, should be oiled regularly so 



152 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


as to permit freedom of movement and prevent undue 
wear on the knife itself caused by gouging or cutting 
of the wedge into the knife body. In one case under 
observation the wedge had scored the right-hand knife 
to such an extent on the lower end that true slugs could 
not be trimmed until the knife, where the wedge has con¬ 
tact, had been reground. In fact, it is well to give this 



Fig. 37. 

side of the knife proper attention every time it is lapped 
or reground, so as to maintain a true sliding surface, 
insuring parallelism on all sizes of slugs. 

It sometimes happens that the friction springs lose 
their tension and permit the knife to tilt on contact with 
the slug and is the cause of “bottled” slugs. It fre¬ 
quently helps to apply two friction springs, instead of 
one. 

The knife springs used to be made with one loop 
instead of two as now. These springs bear watching. 
If one loses tension or works loose it will cause that 
end of the knife to not follow the movements of the 
wedge. Always locate the outer ends of the knife 
springs even with the bracket. 

To widen the range of this block several methods 
may be described. 

If 13 or 14-point slugs are wanted the two screws, b b, 
which control the right-hand side trimming knife adjust- 

























Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


153 


ment, may be turned out. The lever, of course, will 
register 12 point. If a 6-point slug or smaller is wanted 
the screws will have to be readjusted 

To obviate the necessity of resetting the right-hand 
knife for 13 or 14-point a thin strip of steel called a 
liner, .014" thick for 13 point and .028" for 14 point can 
be purchased and inserted when not trimming 13 or 14- 
point slugs, between the wedge, c, and right-hand knife. 
This is the quickest method for trimming slugs larger 
than 12-point with the old style knife block. 

Another method, which is somewhat troublesome to 
bring into play, consists of applying thicker knife block 
liners between the vise frame and the block itself, dd. 
This involves the removal of the knife block from the 
machine, taking off the 12-point and applying the 14- 
point liners. Before replacing the block turn out on the 
left-hand knife adjusting screws, a a, in case these screws 
do not have lock nuts to prevent them turning inward, 
thus destroying the set of the left-hand knife when re¬ 
turning the block to its place. 

Knife block liners, measuring .007", .014", .021" and 
.028" may be purchased from the linotype company. 

Both the right and left-hand adjusting screws are now 
made with Y^-32 pitch instead of f^-16 as formerly. 
This permits a finer and more sensitive means of adjust¬ 
ment, also more rigid. 

The specifications for the knives on the old-style knife 
block are as follows: Two degree angle, tipped at 20°, 
lengthwise or shear angle of 1° 23' +. The of 1° 
knives can be successfully used on this block, or the 2° 
knives can be reground to that angle. 

In Fig. 37, a a represent the two adjusting screws for 
left-hand knife, which is held in place by the two screws, 
ee, the square heads of which are in front of and pass 
through the vise frame into knife body. The two screws, 
b b, represent the adjusting screws for the right-hand 
knife, which is held in place by the two screws, //. The 
two screws, ee, must be loosened before adjusting left- 
hand knife with a a adjusting screws. The screws, //, 
do not need loosening while making adjustments. Press 
down on the knife handle while making adjustments with 
b b right-hand knife adjusting screws. 



154 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


THE “BULL DOG” KNIFE BLOCK 
This exceedingly flexible knife block is the invention 
of David S. Kennedy, and is capable of trimming slugs 
almost within the full range of the printers’ point system, 
5 points to 60 points, and bastard settings may readily 
be obtained with the transverse sector plate screws, j, 
Fig. 38, which are securely held in place by means of 
the radial screws, l, in the periphery of the sector plate. 
For instance, if a slug is wanted .002" oversize on an 
8-point body (.114"), it will only be necessary to set 
the pointer, g, at 8 point, then lower vise and loosen 
radial binding screw, l, and turn the setting screw, /, 
while the vise is closed, by means of a screw driver in- 



g. After the desired adjustment has been secured lower 
the vise and tighten the setting screw set screw. 

When applying a set of knives to this block, only one 
size slug should be used until the right-hand knife is 















Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


155 


adjusted for parallelism and size, then the other sizes 
can be secured by means of the corresponding setting 
screws, according to size of slug wanted. 

If there should be one or more molds on the wheel 
the straightest one should be used to adjust the knives. 
If any of the other mold caps are warped it will be 
necessary to set the knife on that particular body thick¬ 
ness at a place (oversize) until gouging of the slug is 
prevented. If a true-size slug is desired it will be neces¬ 
sary to have the mold cap straightened. 

Several changes and improvements are embodied in the 
“Bulldog” knife block since its first appearance. One of 
these improvements will be found in the manner in 
which the right-hand trimming knife is positively drawn 
against its adjusting screws, a a, so as to follow the 
movements of screws, /. Originally a flat spring fas¬ 
tened to the knife at either end by means of two 4-48 
screws and held in the center of a lug on the slide 
bracket was employed to pull the knife against its ad¬ 
justing screws. This spring was frequently not positive 
in action unless closely watched, and means employed to 
make it so. The improved method consists of two sepa¬ 
rate coil compression springs, one for each end of the 
knife, embedded in a counter-bored hole in the casting, 
and banking against screw studs. The device can be 
applied to the earlier style block by purchasing the new 
style right-hand knife slide bracket, two right-hand 
knife springs, and two right-hand knife spring screws. 
The two 4-48 screw holes in the knife body can be 
drilled out with No. 29 twist drill and tapped for 8-32 
screws. 

The handle, h, can be unlocked from the lever pointer, 
g, and turned down when setting long runs on one size 
slug, without turning the sector cover. The small latch, 
in the handle, h, is swung around so as to permit turn¬ 
ing the handle. This leaves the knife with a rigid bank¬ 
ing while under the strain of trimming a slug, as the 
transverse abutment screws, j, serve as bearings and do 
not permit the knife to assume a floating position. 

It has been found already that the slide bracket did 
not rapidly follow the path of the setting screws when 
the handle is turned. This can be caused by weakness of 
tension in the right-hand knife slide springs, of which 
there are two. These springs should be as nearly the 



156 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


same tension as possible. If one is stronger than the 
other the slide would have a tendency to buckle and 
create unnecessary friction between the slide and one side 
of its recess in the casting. Common kerosene oil is a 
good thing to introduce here occasionally; at least a 
non-gumming oil should be used. Cleanliness is also a 
necessity. Introduce the oil around the gibs, it, and 
work the knife block handle back and forth until the 
slide is loosened and freely follows the sector screws. 

It should not be necessary to readjust the right-hand 
knife liner upper screws seen on the upper front side 
of the block, and not shown in Fig. 38, except from 
some accidental cause, or the application of a new slide. 
In making this adjustment the liner should be set just 
close enough to the slide and still allow a smooth and 
instant stroke in the movement of the slide. 

A late improvement consists of a new lever pointer, 
shown at g, which carries a plate of brass with holes 
corresponding to the seventeen staggered holes in the 
sector plate. This device serves as a bushing and pre¬ 
vents the lever dent pins from inaccurately aligning 
over the holes when setting the knife. The edges of the 
holes are kept from becoming rounded and interfering 
with the accuracy of the slug size. 

Occasionally the left-hand knife adjusting screws, b b, 
will turn hard, interfering with the process of adjusting 
the knives. In this case a ^-32 tap purchased from the 
Mergenthaler company can be turned through the screw 
holes. No attempt should be made to run a die over the 
screw itself as it is hardened, a good cleaning with a 
stiff brush being sufficient. The same thing applies to 
a a, adjusting screws. These screws should move freely 
so as not to interfere with the delicacy of adjustment. 
The check nuts should be kept tight at all times to pre¬ 
serve the settings. Formerly the adjusting screws were 
not slotted for screw driver. 

The screw, d, is used to adjust the right-hand vise 
jaw so face of type will be even with end of slug. The 
right-hand vise jaw also banks against this screw during 
justification. 

In time the lever detents become worn as well as the 
locating holes in the sector plate become rounded out 
through friction with the detents, according to the slug 
sizes most frequently used, thus affecting their accuracy. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


157 


It will be more economical to buy a new sector cover 
than to attempt bushing the holes, as there is not a great 
deal of stock between holes, and the machinist's bill 
would be greater than the price of a new cover. 

It is possible for the knife setting screw button, shown 
at e, to become cut away by the abutment screws, j, 
especially if screw ends are not lubricated at regular 
intervals. When applying a new button, first heat the 
slide casting with a torch, then quickly screw in the but¬ 
ton, using a pin wrench, and bring it up as tightly as 
possible. This will prevent the button working loose 
and causing inaccuracies or slugs sticking on the knives. 

The right-hand knife lever spring, k, should be ad¬ 
justed with enough tension to readily depress the lever 
as soon as a lever detent is positioned over the desired 
socket for slug size. 

The Universal knife block has been altered to allow 
passage of a 60-point face slug. 

On new display linotypes where 48, 54 and 60-point 
faces are to be cast, the machine is equipped with the 
knife block wide enough to cover the range of sizes. 
A corresponding index dial is applied to this knife block. 

I 


I 



In setting large faces the registry plate will show the 
point size. 

All faces above 48 points, up to and including 60 points, 
will cast on a 45-point slug. When casting a 60-point 
face the slug body is 45 points. 












158 


Linotypes and Inter types 


The angles for grinding knives used on the Universal 
block are as follows: of 1° angle from cutting edge 

to base, tipped on top 20°, as indicated at a, Fig. 39; 
have a shear angle of 1° 23', and ground so as to be of 
equal height when in the machine. 

LINOTYPE BACK KNIFE 
The linotype back trimming knife when reground 



Fig. 40. 

should be sharpened at an angle of 40°, and then lapped 
on an oil stone. Any wire edge should also be re¬ 
moved. 

THE INTERTYPE “FLOATING KNIFE” BLOCK 

This block is a refinement of the standard one adopted 
some time ago, its chief distinguishing feature being that 
the right-hand side trimming knife “floats” (using a 



Fig. 41. 


mechanical term) or, in other words, is held in place on 
the block proper by means of a powerful extension 
spring hooked into the base of the knife, the other end 
of the spring being fastened to a bracket. The usual 
binding screws are absent and the knife may easily be 
moved by hand, sideways, and will immediately spring 
back to position again. 












Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


159 


There are about six or seven main pieces which com¬ 
pose the block, and it may be said that simplification has 
made progress in its designing. 

This new block, as well as the older pattern, is the 
invention of Mr. Thomas S. Homans, chief designer for 
the Intertype Corporation. 

The block works on the screw-bearing principle—that 
is, the main block casting has a sort of boss extending 
out towards the right, with screw threads cut on the in¬ 
side surface, the screw itself (a large brass piece), 
working inside the boss. A shell or dial is mounted on 
the screw with suitable notches cut in its periphery ac¬ 
cording to the point system. Any slug, varying in size 
from two points to 42 points, may be trimmed with this 
device without altering any certain setting within its 
range. 

Refinements mentioned above, in contrast with the pre¬ 
vious intertype block, are as follows: Floating right- 
hand knife; rapidity with which the operator may change 
from one slug size to another with the least possible 
segementary revolution of the dial; detents or dial stop 
blocks, which reduce attention operator must give the 
knife when composing ad-figure work; ease with which 
the right-hand knife may be adjusted for true trim. 

The right-hand knife trims on the same principle as 
previous knives. A large curved depression is cut out 
of the bottom so that a hook for the sustaining spring 
may be screwed into its base. This recess would neces¬ 
sarily weaken the strength of the knife, so the top of 
the knife opposite the trimming edge has more stock than 
the old-style knife, as will be seen on looking at j, Fig. 
42. Two shoulders, or gibs, extend out from both 
top ends of the knife, and these gibs bear on correspond¬ 
ing slideways on the main casting. These shoulders pre¬ 
vent the knife moving or “giving” when the slug first 
strikes the knife for trim. Thus the support of the 
trimming edge of the knife passes completely across the 
field occupied by the knife. The sidewise position of 
the knife is entirely controlled by a powerful spring, b, 
Fig. 42, and given a further powerful control because of 
the angle at which it exerts its strength or “pull” on the 
knife. As mentioned above, the knife may be pushed 
sidewise by hand, and will fly back to position upon re¬ 
lease. 



160 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


The old-style knife block had a double-pitch thread, 
two pitch to the inch. The new knife block is a triple 
pitch thread, three-quarters pitch to the inch. In other 



words, a complete revolution of the screw in the old 
block would move the knife one-half inch, or about 36 
points. In the new screw a complete revolution of the 
screw would move the knife one and one-half inches, or 






















































Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


161 


somewhere near 108 points. The handle on the dial, d, 
Fig. 41, is fixed, so that the operator does not need to 
rotate the dial more than about one-third revolution to 
cover the greatest range, starting from two points, now 
within the capacity of knife blocks on slug casting ma¬ 
chines. 

Dial stop blocks, shown at ff. Fig. 41, having detents 
in their centers, may be rotated on the dial, so as to stop 
the movement of the handle as operated for ad-figure 
work. To explain this feature, we will assume the 
operator is setting overhang ad figures, 18 point on an 
8-point slug. He sets the lower block to stop the handle 
for 8-point trim, and the upper block to stop the handle 
in the opposite direction, so as to allow the slug with the 
18-point overhang figure cast on it to pass through the 
knives without trimming. The operator can easily open 
or close the right-hand knife without looking at the 
exact setting each time he sets the knife. If the springs 
in the detent blocks are not kept with a fairly good ten¬ 
sion, the bump of the operating lever will occasionally 
allow the detent to slip out of its notch in the dial. 

When the right-hand knife needs setting for true trim, 
it can be done easily with the two screws, h h, Fig. 42. 
These screws have J A-32 pitch with the usual square 
head. In addition, each screw has a pilot or pin in its 
head, which enter corresponding holes in the disk, g. 

In setting the screws their action is reversed from the 
usual operation. That is, if you want to cause the knife 
to trim the slug smaller you unscrew the setting screw, 
and run it in for larger size slugs. Binding screws, it, 
secure the setting screws and keep them from working 
loose after they have once been set. 

There are no individual undersize or oversize setting 
devices on this knife block. That is, if one slug size is 
true to point system, the other set sizes will also be true 
in proportion. If one setting is .002" oversize the other 
setting will also be .002" oversize. 

The screw, a, Fig. 41, serves the same purpose as sim¬ 
ilar screws in other knife blocks—to adjust the right- 
hand vise jaw for set-wise position of type face on the 
slug body in relation to the end, and against which the 
jaws bank during justification. 

The screws, g g, Fig. 41, hold the block in position 
on the vise. 



162 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


The spring plate, l, Fig. 42, also has a slightly differ¬ 
ent device to hold it in place. The usual lugs are present 
which fit into slots in the base of knife, as is also the 
usual spring plate spring. An 8-32 double-stepped flat- 
head screw, however, keeps the plate in position. A 
counter-sunk hole is drilled in the center of the plate. 
The screw, k, Fig. 42, passes through this hole and also 
one in the spring plate spring into a block in the base 
of the knife. The plate is free to move slightly when 
slug passes through after being trimmed so as to pre¬ 
vent the slug jumping ahead or tilting on delivery. The 
block mentioned above is a departure from the usual 
method of controlling the left-wise stroke of the spring 
plate. 

If the knives are parallel and a slightly under or over¬ 
size slug is wanted, the dial may be slipped around the 
main screw, a, slightly, after loosening the screws, e e e, 
Fig. 41, and after the desired size is obtained, tight¬ 
ening the three binding screws again. In fact, it will 
be found convenient to remove these screws when clean¬ 
ing the block or working with it otherwise. 

The detent, b, Fig. 41, is for the purpose of holding 
the knife stationary until another slug size is wanted 
when changing molds. Corresponding notches for every 
point size are cut in the edge of the dial. 

The new knife block screw is entirely open. This 
lightens the weight of the block considerably, but does not 
weaken its rigidity at all. It has some advantages when 
working with the block. 



The left-hand knife is the same as the old pattern, 
and is adjusted in the same manner. 

INTERTYPE SIDE KNIFE ANGLES 
The angle of the side trimming knife has not been 
changed from that of the former pattern. There is a 







Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


163 


30-minute angle from cutting edge to base for clearance 
of slug passing through. The sketch, Fig. 43, will give 
an idea of dimensions when the knives are new. The 
angle of 20 degrees, it will be noticed in the sketch, is 
1 /32" wide. It is really immaterial how wide this angle 
is, so long as it remain at 20 degrees. In fact, this sur¬ 
face will become wider with each succeeding regrinding 
of the knife. 

INTERTYPE BACK KNIFE 

The back trimming knife on the intertype also has 
been changed to some extent, as shown in Fig. 44. The 
company now cuts a slot in the top side to be of assist¬ 
ance when setting the knife. The underside angle of this 



knife has been changed to 30 degrees instead of 40 de¬ 
grees as formerly ground. There is also a 20-degree tip 
on top, which, it is claimed, will cause the knife to run 
much more satisfactorily and last a great deal longer 
between resharpening operations, owing to the stubbiness 
of the trimming edge. 






XVI. 


KNIFE WIPERS 


HE KNIFE wipers used on line casting machines 



at the present time are a great improvement over 


“*■ earlier patterns. A great many different patterns of 
knife wipers have been devised and only two or three 
have survived and might be called successful. Usually 
these devices when in proper shape do their work cor¬ 
rectly, but the least accident throws them out of com¬ 
mission and they will need immediate attention before 
they function properly again. All the knife wipers used 
at the present time are operated by the first elevator 
slide. 

There are two important things to observe when re¬ 
pairing a knife wiper. The rod itself has a bend or kink 
in it upon which depends the successful operation of the 
knife wiper. It should be remembered that the wiper 
has a stroke of less than 5 l / 2 inches. This stroke is 
taken upon a receding surface—that is, the lower cutting 
edges of the side trimming knives protrude out somewhat 
further than the top edges. The knife wiper starts at 
the bottom on the up-stroke and should follow the re¬ 
ceding edges of the side trimming knives closely, with¬ 
out binding too hard against the knife edges. In other 
words, the knife edges have a shear cut to facilitate an 
easy trim of the slug ribs. 

A great help to easy ejection of slugs when casting 
borders is to wrap a strip of oiled rag around the knife 
wiper blade. This will deposit a film of oil on the knife 
edges, keep them clean from shavings, and compel the 
knives to trim off the heavy “draw” on border slugs. 


LINOTYPE KNIFE WIPER 


Commencing at that part of the rod where it works 
in the guide there should be a kink or “dog-leg” bend 
in the rod, shown at a, Fig. 45. When the rod is at its 
highest upstroke the highest part of the bend should not 
project above the top of the knife wiper guide. If there 
is too much bend in the rod it will bind and the rod 
cannot work properly. This bend in the rod will 


[ 164 ] 


cause 


Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


165 


the knife wiper itself to follow the knife edges closely 
and keep the metal shavings and fine trimmings cleaned 
away. 

It must also be understood that there are to be no 
bends or kinks sidewise in the rod, which would inter¬ 
fere with a free and easy stroke of the rod proper. 

On the linotype the knife wiper rod falls of its own 
weight after the first elevator slide has returned to nor- 

'' t 



Fig. 45. 

mal position. Metal shavings can collect around the rod 
where it passes through the vise frame and if not cleaned 
out regularly will interfere with the rod falling freely 
of its own weight after the first elevator has returned 
to normal position. Sometimes the knife wiper rod, 
which is rather heavy, will pound the lower guide screws 
and dowel pins loose. Repair this damage as soon as it 
happens. Occasionally it will be necessary to tap for 
oversize screws and dowels, if the trouble has been 
allowed to run for too long a time. The knife wiper 
lever on the linotype is made of brass and in case of a 
damaging twist due to accident, can be readily bent back 
into line again. The knife wiper bar link, where it fas¬ 
tens to the rod, is now joined with a stout shoulder screw 
and nut passing through the rod. In case you have one 
of the old style the only remedy is to apply this kind 
of a screw and nut, which will prevent the parts sepa¬ 
rating at a critical time in the day’s operation. 

INTERTYPE KNIFE WIPER 

The intertype knife wiper is worked up and down in 
its ways by an extended lug on the first elevator slide 
stop and makes its strokes as the elevator slide operates. 

In order to compel the wiper blade to follow the re¬ 
ceding edges of the side trimming knives their full length, 
maintain a kink or bend in the rod at the point h, Fig. 46. 
The rod, however, does not want to project above the 
height of the lower mold banking block. 







166 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


Also see that the lower part of the rod is straight 
below this kink or bend. If the rod does not work freely 
in its guides, the bar spring, c, will soon crack. The 
function of this spring is to start the knife wiper down 
after the tension is released by the first eleveator slide 
stop, which operates the knife wiper. In case the rod 
does not operate freely, the slide stop will crack the 
spring on the upstroke. 


L 





Fig. 46. 


When the first elevator is seated on the vise cap in 
casting position, and the knife wiper rod is at its lowest 
point there should be about l /i inch between the adjusting 
nut, d, in the bottom of the rod, and the bracket. 

Do not blame the knife wiper when a left-hand trim¬ 
ming knife is set so close to the constant side of the 
slug as to leave very fine shavings on the left-hand 
knife. This is asking too much of any knife wiper to 
clean off. 

See that the knife wiper bar guide bracket is oiled 
weekly on the under side and that it is close enough to 
the wiper rod to hold the brass blade against the knife 
edges, but not so close as to bind the rod, which will 
surely break the spring, c, shortly, and possibly the guide 


will cut a deep groove in the rod at point b. 











XVII. 


TRANSFERS 

S ETTING a second elevator transfer correctly on a 
linotype or intertype is one of the really difficult 
tasks on these machines, especially so after the 
machine has been in use for a number of years. Too 
much care cannot be exercised in this operation because 
combination teeth make up the life blood of all matrices. 
I believe it was Mr. Henry Boddiker of the “Chicago 
Tribune” who made the statement that “a matrix is good 
for service only as long as its teeth last”—or something 
to that effect. All things being equal in regard to care 
of spacebands in their relation to lock-up with matrices 
during the process of casting, over-set lines and bat¬ 
tered lugs due to neglect of minor adjustments on the 
machine, it seems that this statement must be authorita¬ 
tive. As a rule distributor troubles, compounded stop¬ 
pages along the gate and spilling matrices from the end 
of the distributor itself can be traced to a misadjust- 
ment, accidental injury or neglect of the the second ele¬ 
vator, bar-to-bar or bar-to-rail transfers. The longer 
neglected, the more aggravated will distribution troubles 
become. 

Naturally those matrices having the fewest teeth suffer 
first from a bad transfer. The lower case e, t, n, o, m, 
and capitals T and A are the most prominent ones. The 
lower case n, for instance, with tooth number 4 (one on 
each side of the tooth recess in the matrix) could not be 
expected to give service when one or the other of its 
single combination teeth become damaged. The same 
holds true of the lower case t (combination number two). 
Some matrices having a greater number of teeth will give 
good service and seem to drop perfectly even if one or 
more teeth are slightly damaged—the good teeth over¬ 
coming the faulty action of the defective ones. 

Many an innocent distributor is blamed as being the 
cause of frequent stoppages when in reality the second 
elevator transfer has been found to be spreading the dis¬ 
tance between the combination teeth on the thin matrices 
or damaging the tooth points on the thicker ones. 

[ 167 ] 


168 


Linotypes and Inter types 


As stated above, the correct adjustment of the second 
elevator transfer is a difficult process. The difficulty in 
making adjustments is not so much in the adjustments 
themselves as preparing beforehand and placing in con¬ 
dition the parts to be adjusted. The newer the machine 
the easier it will be to handle. An old machine will re¬ 
quire considerable skill to restore it to workable shape, 
owing to the wear which has taken place in the parts. 

It is apparent in setting a transfer that some orderly 
system ought to be followed, and one such method is 
given below for the benefit of those who do not under¬ 
stand this most important part of a line-casting machine. 

To simplify matters the following procedure is sug¬ 
gested : 

1— Place the second elevator itself in first class order. 

2— Examine the intermediate channel, (front and back 
plates), assembled. 

3— Attend to the first elevator slide guide. 

4— Repair the first elevator jaw (or head). 

The movement of a matrix in transfering from the 
first to the second elevator is a horizontal one. Any 
other movement, such as jumping up on one side or tilt¬ 
ing is the result of imperfect adjustment of machine 
parts and will damage combination teeth. 

1. THE SECOND ELEVATOR. 

Taking up procedure number one in the above tabula¬ 
tion involves, first, the condition of the ends of the bar. 
These teeth on top are at about an angle of 35 degrees. 
The bottom side of the teeth are horizontal or at right 
angles with the sides of the body of the bar. 

Damage to the teeth of the second elevator bar results 
from several causes. Imperfect alignment of the bar 
with the first elevator jaws is the most common cause, 
and can wear the teeth on left-hand end of bar exces¬ 
sively, according to which side of the matrix teeth bind 
while being transferred and still contained within the 
first elevator jaws. During the seating process on the 
intermediate transfer channels it is possible for the sec¬ 
ond elevator head to describe an arc which will cause 
the back side of the bar to rake the back first elevator 
jaw. Both front and back jaws are cut out at this point 
to allow descent of the bar to receiving position without 
interfering with the first elevator jaws. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


169 


Do not hesitate to scrap or repair a bar that cannot 
be restored to a point where it will not damage matrices 
or which allows matrices to drop off into the tumbling- 
box. A set of matrices is more valuable than a second 
elevator bar. A bar can be repaired, while repairing 
matrix teeth to any great extent is a doubtful proposi¬ 
tion. The better the condition of your machines, the less 
matrices will be inclined to freak antics. Most machin¬ 
ists try to do preventive work so as not to have odd or 
obscure troubles to contend with. 

The right-hand end of the second elevator bar rarely 
gives trouble unless the bottom tooth becomes distorted 
from jamming with the distributor box parts. 

While looking over the bar and plate note if the link 
pin has become bent—if so, straighten it, and if it is 
worn to a point where it allows too much play in the 
link bearings. It is possible for the link pin bearing 
holes in the link to become enlarged in time and this will 
bear occasional inspection. 

The adjusting spring should have enough tension to 
prevent the second elevator “wobbling” while returning 
to the distributor with a wide line of matrices. 

The teeth of a new second elevator bar can be slightly 
beveled or tapered off with a slitting file at the receiving 
end, being careful not to distort the contour of the teeth. 
This will assist in making transfer adjustments and pre¬ 
serve matrix teeth. 

A reliable way to test the accuracy of your adjust¬ 
ment of the second elevator transfer is to place a strip 
of white paper vertically in the transfer channel just to 
the left of the spaceband box. Put the electric light 
holder against the second elevator link and lower guide 
with the shade resting on top of the channel above the 
white paper. This will throw the rays of light down on 
the paper and reflect towards the pi matrix suspended 
in the first elevator jaws while the machine is at transfer 
position. The transfer levers, of course, are locked by 
the spaceband pawl so as not to interfere with the opera¬ 
tion. This is called the “white paper test.” 

Practice will soon teach you to avoid what is called 
an “optical illusion,” whether you are looking at the 
matrix in relation to the end of the second elevator bar 
with the light behind or in front of the matrix. 

After making the above test, place the pi matrix on the 



170 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


end of the elevator bar and still contained within the 
first elevator jaws—if the matrix rocks easily and is free 
on both sides the adjustment can be considered complete. 

SECOND ELEVATOR LEVER 

The second elevator lever is composed of two pieces, 
fastened together with a bolt and having a cushion spring 
between ears or projections on the hub and lever. This 
device serves two purposes—one in case there is a jam or 
anything interferes with the lever coming fully to its 
seat at the distributor box, the spring will allow the lever 
to give and avoid breakage. The other purpose is to 
provide a means of adjusting the lever so that the cam 
roll will be free of cam No. 6 while the second elevator 
bar is seated on the transfer channel. If the roll is not 
free of the cam in this position it will hold the bar up 
at transfer point and cause damaging wear to matrix 
teeth as they are transferred to the bar. When a ma¬ 
chine becomes somewhat aged it will be necessary to 
deepen the depression in the second elevator cam at least 
1 /16" so as to permit adjustment of the cushion spring 
bolt. Cutting away the cam is a machine shop job. With 
the machine in normal position the second elevator cush¬ 
ion spring bolt should be free and easily turned with 
the fingers. This will also be an indication that the 
cushion bolt spring is doing its duty towards holding the 
bar tightly against its seat and in line with the distrib¬ 
utor box bar. This will prevent shearing teeth of mat¬ 
rices unless there is another reason, such as the bar being 
out of line because the distributor shifter slide guide 
casting is not properly seated, or a bent link or link pin 
in the second elevator head. 

The delivery pawl (G-97) on linotypes, which pre¬ 
vents the end matrix on a 30-em line from falling off 
the bar, needs occasional renewal. Sometimes it can be 
slightly spread or bent so as to function properly, but it 
is usually better to renew the pawl, especially if the 
spaceband pawl has beveled off the wing side. 

If trouble is experienced on linotypes with end mat¬ 
rices falling off the right-hand end of bar while being 
transfered and the delivery pawl does not hold them, 
small pins can be applied to the inside of the transfer 
channel plates at the place where the lower front and 
back matrix lugs will bank against them, just above the 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


171 


spaceband guide strips and about 5J4" from the left- 
hand end of channel. This can be readily determined by 
sending in a full 30-em line of matrices and stopping the 
machine when the transfer levers have made their ex¬ 
treme first stroke. It is w r ell to see if all adjustments 
are in order before applying the pins. Or one matrix 
can be placed against the delivery pawl while the second 
elevator is seated on the transfer channel and marked 
accordingly. 

INTERTYPE MATRIX STOP BLOCKS 

The Intertype Company does not now use the second 
elevator bar delivery pawl. There is nothing on the bar 
or plate where these parts were formerly applied. In¬ 
stead there are two little plates fastened by means of 
screws and dowels to the inside of the intermediate chan¬ 
nel plates against which the end matrices on wide lines 
bank, thus preventing them from sliding off the end of 
the bar. There is no cause for matrices coming any 
nearer the end of the bar while being lifted from the 
channels to the distributor box. 

2. THE INTERMEDIATE CHANNEL 

The next step will be to inspect the intermediate chan¬ 
nels. There should be a distance of 4/5" or .800" be¬ 
tween the front and back halves. These two halves or 
rails may become sprung apart as a result of the second 
elevator falling accidentally on them, or the distance con¬ 
tracted due to the introduction of foreign material be¬ 
tween the two pieces in an attempt to align the bar hori¬ 
zontally with the first elevator jaws. The screws being 
kept tight, there should be no occasion for further trouble 
here. If the rails are sprung apart and the dowels are 
not bent they should be refitted with a file until the cor¬ 
rect space between them is obtained. 

As shown in a, Fig. 17, a suitable gauge for determin¬ 
ing the distance between the two rails can be made from 
a piece of steel about 3/16" thick. This will be approxi¬ 
mately correct and will serve every purpose of the ma¬ 
chinist. 

3. THE SLIDE GUIDE 

The intermediate bar point is an important part of the 
slide guide and should be renewed as soon as it shows 




172 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


very much wear on the underside of the point from fric¬ 
tion with matrices and spacebands. Its function is to 
bring all matrices and bands to a common level in case 
any are out of line, so as to slide freely onto the second 
elevator bar, as well as to keep them from jumping up 
and binding against the end of the second elevator bar. 

If the pawl is not renewed as wear demands it cannot 
depress bands or matrices which might be slightly higher 
than should be and will cause damage to the teeth on the 
matrices. If a worn bar point is leveled with the bottom 
of the second elevator bar it will cause the intermediate 
bar itself to be set so low as to bind against and damage 
matrix teeth while still in the first elevator. A new in¬ 
termediate bar point may be dressed along its side and 
the shoulder which has contact with the top pin which 
holds it in place in the slot in the end of the intermediate 
bar. Never file the bottom shoulder, as this will render 
the point unfit for use and produces the same effect as a 
worn bar point. Dressing the wire edges from the side 
and top shoulder is sometimes necessary, as a new pawl 
will not always work freely. 

It is highly important that a trace of oil be applied 
to the bearing surface of the intermediate bar where the 
first elevator bears, at regular intervals, so that the 
friction between the two parts will be lessened and 
no cutting will occur. In time this cutting into both bar 
and jaw will seriously interfere with a successful trans¬ 
fer, throwing out the relation between the intermediate 
bar point and the bottom tooth or rail of the second 
elevator bar. 


LINOTYPE SLIDE GUIDE 
On linotype machines the slide guide (D-898) is ad¬ 
justable forwards or backwards by means of two 8-32 
headless setting screws in the back of the cap which bear 
against the face plate casting. These screws are not 
shown in any of the cuts used with these articles. The 
slide guide can also be moved to the right or left—the 
distance horizontally being determined by the relation 
of the intermediate bar point or pawl to the second ele¬ 
vator when both are in transfer position—the pawl being 
just far enough away from the bar to permit freedom of 
movement slightly up and down. Always pull the cap 
towards the front of the machine until the adjusting 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


173 


screws bear against the face plate casting as well as 
locating it sidewise. Then tighten the three hexagon 
headscrews which hold the slide guide in position. 

4. THE FIRST ELEVATOR 

Go over the first elevator head as described in Chap¬ 
ter 9, paying particular attention to the fit and straight¬ 
ness of the back jaw. 

ADJUSTMENTS—LINOTYPE 

Having gone over the second elevator head, the line 
intermediate channel, the transfer cap and the first ele¬ 
vator jaws, the standard adjustments can be made, which, 
if carefully done after the parts to be adjusted are placed 
in good condition, should give the results wanted with¬ 
out great difficulty. An allowance here or there to com¬ 
pensate for worn parts will be readily perceptible to the 
one who has already examined the various devices. 

The first adjustment will be the height to which the 
first elevator rises at second elevator transfer. 

Remove the first elevator slide guide. The machine is 
at transfer position. 

To determine if the first elevator is coming up to the 
right height at transfer position, first see if the screw 
at the bottom of the elevator slide that holds the slide 
stop to the first elevator slide is straight. Any acci¬ 
dental strain on the slide stop is likely to bend this screw, 
which will throw the first elevator out of adjustment as 
to height in relation to the second elevator bar. It is 
customary to see if this screw is bent—if not, see that it 
is tight. There should be no dirt or caked graphite ac¬ 
cumulation on either the transfer channels or the under¬ 
side of the second elevator bar plate. Place a thick 
new pi matrix in the first elevator near the end of the 
second elevator bar, but not touching the bar. Since the 
slide guide is removed, it will be necessary to pull out 
on the first elevator until the matrix centers in front 
of the bar. 

After this adjustment for height only has been made, 
replace the cap and start adjusting horizontally—i. e., 
front and back so the matrices will slide onto the second 
elevator bar without side friction. This is accomplished 
on the linotype by means of two 8-32 headless screws. 
It is better to back the screws clear of any bearing on 



174 


Linotypes and Inter types 


their seats, put the slide guide in place, as well as its 
three screws, to a light bearing to hold it as far forward 
as it will come, then adjust until the matrix combination 
teeth center front and back on the bar, then tighten the 
three hexagon head screws a a a, Fig. 47, which anchor 
the slide guide to the top of the face plate. 



Fig. 47. 

The intermediate bar is adjusted by loosening the two 
screws, c c, and raising or lowering screws, b b, until the 
end or bottom of the pawl in the bar, e, is even with the 
bottom of the second elevator bar. 

If the slide guide is in position and it seems that it 
can not be pushed further to the right, so the intermedi¬ 
ate bar will be just up to the second elevator bar, the 
intermediate bar, e, can be moved sidewise to accom¬ 
plish this. 

The first elevator guide adjusting strip, shown at f, 
should be in position far enough to bear against the 
duplex rail levers and bring the rail itself flush with 
the edge of the adjusting bar, thus permitting the auxil¬ 
iary position matrices to drop to normal. Two hexagon 
head cap screws, dd, hold the strip to its place on the 
slide guide. This strip assists in holding the first eleva¬ 
tor jaw snugly against the intermediate bar and takes up 
any play. 

When replacing a linotype first elevator slide guide 
always pull it towards you as you tighten the cap screws, 
and place it so that the intermediate bar point will be 
just up to but not binding against the second elevator 
bar. 

In case the second elevator does not come down to 
position on account of a distributor stop, locked space- 
band pawl, non-transference of spacebands or other 









Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


175 


causes, there is a releasing lever mounted in the side 
guide which rests in the path of the transfer slide and 
cannot be raised unless the second elevator is down in 
position on the transfer channels. The correct adjust¬ 
ment for this is 1/32" space between the bottom of the 
releasing lever and the top of the block on the slide, the 
screw in the second elevator lever being turned until the 
right space here is obtained. 

The elevator transfer slide finger, D-220, should be 
vertical and square with the transfer channels, otherwise 
it can tilt the matrices while pushing them onto the 
second elevator bar. 

There are several adjustments to the transfer levers 
which are as follows: 

The right-hand side of the transfer finger should be 
5 9/16" away from the left-hand side of transfer chan¬ 
nel. This adjustment is made by means of the split lever 
fastened to the transfer lever shaft in the rear of the 
machine column. There are two cap screws in the hub. 
Make sure there is no flat spot on the roller and adjust 
the hub until the correct distance is obtained. The split 
hub allows unlimited adjustment and in case of a dan¬ 
gerous strain upon the lever will slip, thus preventing a 
broken part. 

On old linotypes it might be well to see if cam No. 10 
has not slipped on its shaft before making any adjust¬ 
ments of the transfer levers. 

So that the transfer finger may push the last matrix 
onto the bar and clear the first elevator jaws safely, the 
cut in the finger should be even with the second elevator 
bar plate. This adjustment is made by a 24-16 head¬ 
less screw in the automatic safety pawl. The roller at 
this point bears against a buffer or pin in cam No. 10, 
the buffer in turn pushing the safety pawl against the 
rim of cam 10, which forms a solid bearing or stop for 
the transfer lever, and still permits the safety pawl to 
clear the upper stopping lever in the clutch mechanism. 

The next adjustment is made when the levers have 
come together again to transfer the spacebands after the 
line of matrices has been lifted out of the transfer chan¬ 
nels. The finger should come within *4" of the end of 
slot in the spaceband pawl. The 8-32 headless screw 
in the transfer slide banks against the buffer in the 
spaceband lever pawl. This buffer is a small metal disk, 



176 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


behind which are circular pieces of felt which form a 
cushion to take up the shock of the two levers coming 
together. 

After the spaceband pawl has returned to its place 
above the spaceband box, adjust the turnbuckle in the 
machine column so that points of pawl come past the 
angles on the spaceband box rails about The turn- 

buckle has nothing to do with the transfer lever adjust¬ 
ments, being fastened to the transfer lever merely for 
the purpose of operating the spaceband lever and pawl. 

If the turnbuckle loses its adjustment because the bar¬ 
rel works loose, remove it from the machine and squeeze 
the split end so as not to revolve so freely on the right 
and left-hand thread eye screws. 

LINOTYPE BAR PLATE 

If the bar plate shows much wear at its seating edge 
where it first bears on the intermediate channel (the 
beveled edge) it should be renewed. If the spaceband 
lever pawl has cut the bar over the safety stop spring so 
the spring will no longer stay in its place, renew the bar 
plate. That part of the bar plate that strikes the lower 
guide so as to assist the second elevator to come to a 
horizontal position, should be filed to a straight bevel as 
it becomes rounded by constant friction with the guide. 
The under side of the bar plate at this point will in time 
curl over from the same cause. This will prevent the 
bar plate from trying to seat on top of the intermediate 
channel plate stops or interfering with the first elevator 
head. If any burrs are present resulting from space- 
bands being left in the channel, remove them with a fine 
file. 


ADJUSTMENTS—INTERTYPE 
The first elevator slide guide, or transfer cap, V-242, 
Fig. 48, is similar to the cap on the linotype. Held in 
place on the face plate by three hexagon head cap screws, 
a a a. The intermediate bar, e, held by the two screws, 
c c, and positioned by the two adjusting screws, b. b. 

On intertypes the front teeth of the second elevator 
bar near the end where it enters the first elevator jaws, 
can rake the front jaw if the lower guide post is not 
kept lubricated with oil. When dry here, the angle piece 
on the bar plate which assists a vertical entry will drag 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


177 


and turn up. This will soon prove disastrous to matrix 
teeth which will be cut when the bar has been sufficiently 
distorted at the end. 



Fig. 48. 


In order to secure the front-and-back adjustment of 
the first elevator jaws with the second elevator on an 
intertype it will be necessary to adjust the plate or guide 
(lower) V-114, against which the bar plate angle rests. 
Adjusting the plate on the lower guide will position the 
second elevator accordingly in relation to the first ele¬ 
vator jaws. Loosen the screw, W-32, and adjust by 
means of W-847 lower guide set screws. On the inter- 
type the second elevator as it is raised on the return trip 
to the distributor box lifts the line of matrices verti¬ 
cally, the lower back lugs being thus relieved of any 
wear by bearing against the back intermediate channel 
casting. 

When making a transfer adjustment it is good prac¬ 
tice to remove both front and back jaw detents, and re¬ 
place them after finishing the job. 

Pi matrices securely riveted together and in line, about 
two inches in length, makes a valuable instrument in 
adjusting a second elevator transfer. Such blocks can 
be made with a little care or purchased from the com¬ 
panies reasonably. 

To secure the vertical adjustment of the first elevator 
jaws in relation to the second elevator bar adjust by means 
of the screw in the bottom of the first elevator slide, 
using a new pi matrix. Make sure the screw that holds 
the slide stop to the slide is not bent or loose. 

The intertype does not have a starting spring to start 
the second elevator from its seat at the distributor and 



178 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


to hold the roller tightly to the cam when coming to 
normal, a 20-lb. lever-weight being fastened to the lever 
shaft, taking its place. This device has some advantages 
over the old starting spring. 

The safety catch, V-154, has a lug on the end, which 
fits in a notch in the transfer slide, and is for the purpose 
of preventing the slide transferring the line of mats in 
case the first elevator does not come up clear to its 
transfer position, such as becoming fouled with the knife 
wiper. 

The intertype has a split lever adjustment, its adjust¬ 
ment being made so that the distance from the right-hand 
side of finger to left-hand side of transfer channels is 
5$4". A method of obtaining this adjustment will sug¬ 
gest itself to the novice. The spaceband pawl can be 
locked, the machine backed until the transfer lever roll is 
clear of its cam, when the cap screws that hold the hub 
tightly on the shaft can be loosened and the hub tapped 
the direction it should go—that is, if the space between 
the finger and the end of intermediate channel rails is not 
quite 5^", it will be necessary to move the hub towards 
the cam against which it works in order to throw the 
finger farther away from the left side of the transfer 
channel. 

After having obtained the 5*H$" adjustment, adjust 
the screw in the safety pawl so that when it bears against 
the plunger in the transfer cam, the cut in the transfer 
finger will be even with the second elevator bar plate on 
the first transfer lever stroke. This is to insure that 
all matrices will have left the first elevator jaws and are 
in position to be lifted out of the transfer channels when 
the second elevator rises. 

There is a screw mounted in the transfer slide against 
which the spaceband lever banks when the levers come 
together a second time to gather the spacebands to return 
them to the spaceband box. This screw should be set 
so that there will be a space of *4" between the bottom 
of the slot in the spaceband lever pawl and the transfer 
finger. 

There is another adjustment to be made at this time 
by means of the turnbuckle in the machine column, so 
that the hook on the spaceband pawl will come past the 
box rail corners about This is to insure the pawl 

pulling the spacebands past the horizontal surface of the 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


179 


spaceband box rails and start them sliding down the in¬ 
cline into the spaceband box. 

TRANSFER ADJUSTMENTS AT THE 
DISTRIBUTOR 

At the distributor the second elevator bar joins with 
the distributor box bar so the line of matrices will be 
continuously supported while being pushed into the dis¬ 
tributor box. The joint where the two bars meet will 
need occasional attention. 

The distributor shifter slide guide is fastened to the 
distributor beam by means of two cap screws (j^-12). 
There have been cases where it was necessary to file the 
slide guide casting to locate it farther back to align the 
joint where the two bars meet. Likewise, if necessary, 
thin shim stock can be inserted between the two castings 
to throw the second elevator bar the other way. 

Sometimes when applying either a new second elevator 
or distributor box bar it will be necessary to smooth the 
joint where they meet with a slitting file or riffler while 
the bars are at normal position. 

All models of intertypes are equipped with an upper 
back distributor box rail, V-22, which extends past the 
rail joint and is supposed to lessen wear on matrix teeth 
at this point and support matrices better that have worn 
teeth. 

If the two bar ends do not join closely the second ele¬ 
vator lever may need peining. Use a peining hammer 
and strike the lever with the peining side of the hammer, 
so the marks will come at right angles with the lever. 
Do this on the side of the lever opposite to the direction 
it should go. For example, if the lever is deflected too 
far toward the right (back view), it must go to the left, 
so pein it on the right, which is the side opposite to the 
direction it must go to straighten it. 

It is advisable not to use over an eight-ounce cross- 
pein hammer. Remove the second elevator from the ma- 
chin and while peining about the middle of the lever 
have someone hold a hand over the top of the lever to 
prevent vibration and thus stop any tendency of the lever 
to snap. The lever should be fastened in a vise. The 
pressure of the person holding the top of the lever and 
bearing lightly in the direction the lever is to be sprung 



180 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


will quickly bring the desired result. Much care must be 
exercised in this operation—levers snap easily. 

See that the dowel pins are in the upper second ele¬ 
vator guide. 

The third transfer occurs as the matrices are passing 
from the distributor box rails to the distributor combina¬ 
tion bar and if the matrices bind while yet on the rails 
with their teeth engaging those of the distributor bar 
more than likely it is a question of height. On late ma¬ 
chines the distributor bar is doweled. Generally the rails 
need a little stoning down on top so as to permit the 
matrix teeth to slide freely to the bar. One rail being 
higher than the other will damage matrix teeth. Stone 
the high rail. The front rail can be slightly bent side- 
wise if necessary to carry the matrices steadily onto the 
bar, or if too close slightly bent away. On rare occa¬ 
sions it has been necessary to manipulate the upper dis¬ 
tributor box back rail. 

Use a new thick pi matrix having full seven teeth when 
making tests here. 

The upper front distributor box rail can become bent 
by forcibly pulling the box down while matrices are on 
the rails, or not turning the box bolt out full distance. 

SECOND ELEVATOR CHATTERING AT 
DISTRIBUTOR 

The following are some of the causes for second ele¬ 
vator bar buckling at distributor box : 

1— Loose pulley belt—if belt drive. 

2— Worn teeth in motor pinion. 

3— Worn driving pinion. A worn pinion will cause a 
series of thumps during machine’s revolution. The lost 
motion between teeth of main driving gear and driving 
pinion. 

4 — Uneven second elevator cam. Smooth off with 
flat bastard file. 

5— Flat spot on second elevator cam roll. 

6— Starting spring, on linotypes only, not doing its 
duty. Apply new spring or piece out old one, not more 
than two pieces, putting a washer between the two sec¬ 
tions of spring. This does not apply to intertype, which 
has a weight, V-152, in place of the linotype starting 
spring, B-238. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


181 


7— Slug lever connecting rod not oiled. 

8— Ejector lever pawl set down too low so that cam 
No. 10 strikes lug on ejector lever before pawl is fully 
released from ejector cam. 

9— Clutch arm screw and key loose so arm wobbles on 
shaft. This allows cam shaft to run ahead during spring- 
stresses. Apply J^-16 Sq. Hd. set screw in place of 
driving shaft friction clutch arm key screw. 

10— Adjusting spring (second elevator) not having 
sufficient tension. This spring should have tension 
enough to steadily hold the link down on stop pin when 
bar is loaded with 30-em line of matrices. 

11— Operator jerking starting and stopping lever sud¬ 
denly when second elevator is between transfer points. 
To avoid this, pull second elevator down by hand, then 
open lever. 

12— On the intertype only second elevator bar plate 
spring is used on account of the balance of the second 
elevator itself, the weight in relation to its pivot being 
differently balanced than that of the linotype bar on ac¬ 
count of construction. This spring has one function only 
—that of holding the second elevator and matrices steady 
while ascending to the distributor. 

13— Unsteady source of power. 

14— In some cases, uneven clutch leathers. 

15— Jerky accentuation of slug lever owing to too 
strong a slug lever spring, or the stop pin (old machines) 
in slug lever connecting rod permits it to enter too far, 
causing excess spring pressure, and after passing point 
of rod (or center) the release causes jerk. 

16— Partly transferred line. 

17— Bent transfer finger. 

18— Occasionally an imperfect slug. 



XVIII 


DISTRIBUTOR SHIFTER 

HE DISTRIBUTOR shifter will require oc¬ 
casional attention as follows: Once a week or 



oftener, if necessary, clean the shifter buffer face. 
The buffer pushes the matrices into the distributor box 
and constantly presses the matrices against the vertical 
faces or shoulders of the distributor box rails as they 
are lifted one by one by the matrix lift. The buffer 
will gradually accumulate a gummy substance on its face 
from contact with the matrices, and when enough has 
accumulated, if not cleaned off, will frequently draw a 
matrix back with it for a short distance when the shifter 
retracts to push the next line into the distributor box. 

There are no stated adjustments for the distributor 
shifter, but there are several things which should be 
watched, as upon them depends the bending of matrices 
and wrong fonts distributing into the wrong magazine. 

The buffer itself should be next to but not touching 
the distributor box matrix lift. If the buffer enters the 
box too far it will wear out the raising lip or shoulder 
of the lift. Put a thin washer on the buffer stud, which 
will retract it and prevent interfering with the lift. If 
the buffer does not come close enough to the lift it is 
possible that filing out the end of the slide where it banks 
against the stop screw will remedy the matter. It is not 
good policy to try peining unless absolutely necessary, or 
bending the shifter casting in order to position it cor¬ 
rectly. The risk of cracking the slide casting is too 
great. 

If the shifter does not come against its stop screw in 
the slide while the machine is standing at normal, this 
will indicate that the shifter is being held out by the 
shifter cam, the cam rider not clearing the cam suffi- 
cinetly. The reason for this in many instances, is that 
the machine clutch and bearings are in fine order, and the 
machine stops easily as soon as the automatic stopping 
pawl touches the upper stopping lever, throwing the fric¬ 
tion clutch out of action. 

To prevent the shifter being held out by the cam rider 


[ 182 ] 


Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


183 


resting on the shifter cam, back the machine until the 
second elevator descends, press on the shifter lever and 
place a small strip of steel about two points thick be¬ 
tween the cam rider and the cam rider stop screw. This 
will raise the other end of the cam rider and hold it 
away from the shifter cam, and allow the shifter buffer 
to push all the mats so they will feed out of the box into 
the distributor. 

If, for any reason, the distributor shifter lever spring 
is removed, it can easily be returned to place by passing 
cord through the top loop, lowering the spring catch on 
the stud at the bottom and then drawing the spring up 
to is stud on the cam rider hub. 



XIX 


DISTRIBUTORS 


B EFORE proceeding with distributor adjustments it 
might be well to explain that no distributor will 
work well when the combination teeth of the 
matrices have become damaged in one of the various 
transfers before they reach the distributor proper. This 
should be borne in mind when matrices do not act just 
right while distributing. 

The distributors used on linotypes and intertypes will 
be taken up in detail in this section. 

The matrices pass from the second elevator bar into 
the distributor box, meanwhile being urged forward by 
the distributor shifter. The matrices are supported by 
the distributor box bar. They travel through the box 
until the first matrix in the line strikes the vertical faces 
of the distributor box rails. Here they are raised one 
at a time onto the distributor bar and into the threads of 
the distributor screws. The screws carry them along 
until the matrices reach the proper channel when they 
drop off into the channel entrance and down into the 
magazine. 

The distributor box has several adjustments and it is 
required that they be kept in reasonably good working 
order to prevent damage to the matrices. 

The distributor box matrix lift lever is composed of 
two pieces. There is a stiff spring embedded in the lever, 
shown at e, Fig. 48, which will give and often prevent 
injury to a matrix, if one should happen to become 
turned around in the line of matrices. On old machines 
this spring may become weak and not be strong enough 
to overcome the friction taking place as the matrix is 
being raised to the top part of the upper rails. 

When the lift is at its highest stroke, there should be 
1 /32 of an inch space between the upper lug of the matrix 
and the top of the distributor box rail, as shown at t. 
Throw off the distributor driving belt and slowly turn 
the distributor ahead until the distributor box matrix 
lift lever is at its highest stroke. It can easily be deter¬ 
mined at this point just how much space there is between 
[ 184 ] 


Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


185 


the bottom of the upper lug of the matrix and the top or 
shoulder of the upper rail. This adjustment is made by 
turning the adjusting screw, d, in the matrix lift cam 
lever. 



The distributor box bar point, a, prevents more than 
one matrix being raised at a time. This is accomplished 
by cutting a slot in the center of each matrix at the 
factory, on the left-hand side deep enough so that every 
matrix is an equal thickness at the bottom of the slot. 
The bar point extends far enough over the slot to just 
allow one matrix at a time to be raised by the distributor 
box lift. The friction set up by the matrix being raised 
tends to raise the matrix next to it, but the bar point 
will hold it down. 

In time the vertical faces of the upper distributor box 
rails will become worn, or the bar point itself become 
somewhat rounded, so that two thin matrices will feed 
into the screws at one operation, or the second matrix 
will attempt to feed it along with the first one and stick 
the distributor. The distributor box can be removed 
from the machine by turning in full distance the distrib¬ 
utor box bolt handle. If the handle is not turned in full 















































186 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


distance, the upper front box rail may become bent try¬ 
ing to remove the box. 

There are two dowel pins, k k. which hold the bar in 
the box. Drive these out and hold the bar with the bar 
point on a solid block. With a punch and hammer the 
point can be swelled out, dressed down evenly until it 
will permit one matrix only to be lifted at a time. Test 
it with a matrix by hand before returning the box to 
the machine. 

There is a small flat spring, g, embedded in the uppet 
front box rail. This spring holds the matrices snuglj 
against the back rail, and also prevents the last few 
matrices in the box twisting and causing trouble when 
the shifter retracts to push in another line of matrices 
in case all of the preceding line has not been distributed. 

If difficulty is experienced with matrices twisting in 
the box just before they are lifted on the upper part of 
the upper rails, this spring can be ground off sufficiently 
so that there will be about the distance of a thin space 
between the end of the spring, g, and the vertical face 
of the rail. This will prevent the matrix next to the lift 
twisting when the shifter retracts to push another line 
into the box. 

The distributor box lift will in time wear either round 
on the lip or the seat will become widened so that it will 
attempt to raise two thin matrices at a time. Regrind the 
lift, as shown at f, so that the lip or lifting shoulder of 
the lift will allow a thin space to slightly extend beyond 
the body of the lift. Place a thin space on the lip of the 
lift and see if the seat has become worn wide enough so 
that the edge of the seat extends beyond the matrix. If 
so, the lift can be held flatwise against a grinding wheel 
until the lifting seat is the proper dimension. 

In time, the lift cam lever stud and roll, c, will be¬ 
come worn—the roll especially will become oval. This 
will cause trouble in the raising of matrices high enough 
to clear the shoulder of the distributor box rails. 

WORN DISTRIBUTOR BOX RAILS 

Distributor box rails, upper and lower, become worn 
on their vertical faces, h, Fig. 48, where the matrices 
bear and slide while being raised into the distributor 
screws. For the purpose of clarity to he novice thF is 
illustrated in a separate drawing, a, and d, Fig. 49. This 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


187 


wear can be great enough to bend thin matrices while being 
lifted, or the thread of the distributor screws will catch 
the matrix against the vertical faces before it is raised 
high enough by the lift Always renew all four rails 
at one time. A set of four rails usually lasts at least one 
year, but in some cases, according to the amount of use 
a machine receives, they may require renewal earlier or 
later than one year. These rails should be inspected oc¬ 
casionally to see that the wear does not progress far 
enough to damage thin matrices. When new rails are 
applied the distributor box bar will have to be refitted 
to allow but one thin matrix to pass at a time. 

At the time new rails are applied fit the dowel pin 
holes, shown at /. Don’t merely jam them on the dowel 
pins in the distributor box plates. A small round file, 
(either needle or die-sinker’s), will clean out burrs or 
corrosion from the holes in new rails. If care is exer¬ 
cised a nice fit can be obtained. 



After the rails have been applied, the bar point fitted 
so as to permit the passage of but one thin matrix, (new 
period or thin space) at a time, the box may be returned 
to the machine. 

Run one pi matrix up into the distributor and see 
that the upper rails do not bind the sides of the new pi 












































188 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


matrix when it is about to leave the rails. The back rail, 
(the one nearest you while standing on the machine step), 
is usually all right. In any event, don’t bend it. Slightly 
bend the upper front rail, if necessary so it won’t bind 
the reference side of the matrix and at the same time 
see that the rail does not rub against the upper front dis¬ 
tributor screw. 

The next step will be to determine whether the top 
or horizontal faces, shown at b, of the rails are so high 
as to bind a new pi matrix when the matrix is about to 
leave the rails with its teeth engaging the combination 
bar. Raise the back distributor screw and hold a light 
to one side of the matrix; look between the matrix teeth 
and distributor combination bar teeth. Also test for free¬ 
dom by slightly backing the distributor screws until the 
matrix lugs are between the distributor screw threads. 
If the matrix swings freely the height of the horizontal 
faces of the distributor box rails will be O. K. If the 
matrix binds, stone off the horizontal faces until the 
matrix is free at this point. Be careful to stone off both 
horizontal faces of the upper rails so they will be the 
same height. 

The friction spring, c, Fig. 49, should be maintained 
so as to bear lightly against matrices as they pass to the 
lift. This spring prevents the first matrix squabbling 
when the shifter pulls out and some matrices are still in 
the box. 

The distributor box may be easily taken apart by turn¬ 
ing out on the three front plate upper screws and the 
screw that holds the separating block against which the 
matrix lift works. The front plate may then be slipped 
off the dowels. 

To remove a distributor box, turn the machine back 
by hand until the second elevator descends from the box, 
pull out the shifter and drop the shifter slide latch to 
hold shifter out and away from the box, turn the box 
bolt handle to right until it strikes the slide casting, but 
do not force it around. This will be sufficient distance 
for the removal of the box without bending the box 
upper front rail. If the bolt should not be turned to the 
right far enough the upper front rail may become bent. 
This rail, being deflected in, will bind matrices during 
distribution and chafe the combination teeth, so much so 
as to make matrices useless for good distribution. 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


189 


When oiling a distributor use a small can and sparingly 
apply oil to the bearings. A medium oil is preferable to 
a thin, watery oil, as it will not have as great a tendency 
to creep or flow outside the bearings and foul the mat¬ 
rices. Matrices that have oil on their lugs will stick in 
the magazine escapements and drop sluggishly through 
the channel entrance. Oiling a distributor once in two 
or three weeks should be often enough. 

A distributor box matrix lift lever cam will not need 
replacing until the crown of the cam which causes the 
box lift lever to raise a matrix into the distributor 
screws is worn to a place where the lift will not raise a 
matrix soon enough to clear the screw thread. In other 
words, the action of the lift raising the matrix is delayed 
enough, owing to the worn cam crown, shown at b , Fig. 
48, so that the screw thread of the distributor worm will 
have advanced enough to bind against the matrix when it 
is part way up as it is being lifted into the screws. 

Do not confuse the bending or catching of thin mat¬ 
rices as being the fault of a worn cam when worn box 
rails may be causing the trouble or the seat on the dis¬ 
tributor box matrix lift is rounded off. 

To apply a new cam proceed as follows: 

Tap out the taper pin that holds the cam to the shaft. 
Apply new cam, and fasten to the shaft with a small 
8-32 headless screw. This hole is already drilled and 
tapped in new cams. You will notice that the hole for 
the taper pin is not completely drilled through the cam. 
When cams are sent out as supply parts the hole is 
drilled through one side only so that in fitting the new 
cam to a worn machine an opportunity is given to com¬ 
pensate for any inaccuracy in the original hole or wear 
in the old parts. Apply the new cam in about the same 
position the old one occupied. Tighten the 8-32 headless 
screw. Place a new pi matrix with thick lugs in the dis¬ 
tributor box and slowly turn the distributor by hand. 
Adjust the matrix lift lever so that the lift will raise 
the matrix 1 /32 of an inch above the shoulder of the 
distributor box upper rail. Then, if the adjustment is 
correct, back up the distributor until the matrix is again 
in the box ready to be lifted into the distributor screws. 

Again turn the distributor slowly by hand and when 
the lift just starts to raise the matrix see if the left-hand 
side of the matrix (facing distributor from the back) is 



190 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


1/32 of an inch away from the right-hand side of the 
distributor screw threads nearest the matrix. Make this 
test several times to be certain that there is 1/32 of an 
inch clearance between the matrix and distributor screw 
thread just when the lift starts to raise the matrix. Run 
the machine by power using several lines of matrices to 
test the accuracy of the position or timing of the cam 
crown with the lifting of the matrix so there will be no 
interference with the screw thread against the matrix 
as it is being raised by the lift into the distributor screws. 

If the clearance is too great or not sufficient, the head¬ 
less screw in the cam can be loosened and the cam turned 
in the direction it should go until the correct clearance 
between the matrix and the screw thread is obtained. 
After testing the accuracy of the position of the cam 
on the distributor screw, the cam then can be drilled and 
broached or reamed and the taper pin driven in. The 
temporary 8-32 headless screw can now be removed. 

It is necessary that the distributor box rails be in good 
shape before applying a new cam. If they show wear 
apply a new set before proceeding as above. 

A distributor that is not set level or tilted up above 
level on the clutch side of the distributor cannot run 
satisfactorily. Place a small level on the distributor 
screws and put slugs or wedges under the toes of the 
machine base on the right-hand side of the machine until 
the level shows at least a slight tilt above true horizontal. 
This will cause the bottom ends of matrices to lean 
against the screw threads and hold the matrices steady 
until they are ready to drop into the channel entrance. 

Distributor screw threads that are out of time will also 
make matrices drop irregularly. 

It is a good idea also to use the small level on the vise 
cap and see that the machine is level front and back, or 
slightly higher in the back than the front. This will 
also cause matrices to be steadied against the bottom 
distributor screw while being urged along the bar for dis¬ 
tribution. 

Through vibration of the machine or other causes the 
adjusting screws in the back distributor screw right- and 
left-hand brackets may work loose and interfere with 
good distribution. These screws should be set so that 
the back distributor screw just clears new pi matrices 
while on the bar. If the screws are set so that they are 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


191 


too far away from the matrices, thin matrices may twist. 
If the screws in the bracket are too loose the distributor 
screw will interfere with distribution because it bears 
too heavily against the matrices. Use new pi matrices 
when making these adjustments which should never get 
out of order except for the above causes. 

Good distribution of matrices is dependent as much 
upon correct distributor adjustments as the combination 
teeth of matrices being in good order. 

The above adjustments apply alike to both linotype 
and intertype. The channel entrance position of the lino¬ 
type is fixed at the factory and should not be moved. 
If some of the partitions on the older style machines be¬ 
come bent, they can be straightened with a pair of duck¬ 
bill pliers. Shake the channel entrance tripping bar back 
and forth and adjust the partitions with the pliers until 
none of the partitions move when the tripping bar is 
moved its limit either right or left. 

When matrices distribute into the channel entrance 
they should clear the channel entrance partitions. To 
determine whether or not they do clear the partitions 
properly, run out say the lower case “f” channel of 
matrices. Place them in the distributor box and stop 
the distributor when they have almost reached their drop¬ 
ping place. Throw off the distributor driving belt and 
slowly turn by hand. Observe if the matrix just clears 
the channel entrance partition as it drops. If it does not, 
the distributor bar and beam can be shifted to cause the 
matrices to clear the partitions properly. Loosen the 
right- and left-hand distributor beam screws. Early lino¬ 
types were made so that the beam was doweled to the dis¬ 
tributor bracket. The dowels are now omitted. There is 
a small tongue or lug on the beam which fits between two 
adjusting screws on the distributor bracket, by means of 
which the beam can be shifted to accomplish the proper 
dropping of matrices into the channel entrance without 
interfering with the partitions. 

TO REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR BEAM FOR 
CLEANING AND REPAIRS 

It is sometimes advantageous to remove a distributor 
for cleaning and repairs. It can best be done by placing 
the beam upside down in a bench vise where all parts 
will be accessible. 



192 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


Back the machine until the second elevator descends 
clear of the distributor box, turn out and remove the dis¬ 
tributor shifter slide safety stop screw and drop the 
shifter slide on its lever, remove the distributor box, re¬ 
move the matrix pan if necessary (according to machine 
model), disconnect and tie up the distributor driving 
belt, open channel entrance. Loosen and turn out the 
two beam screws. The beam being rather heavy, requires 
the services of two persons for removal, one at either 
end of the beam. Place in bench vise upside down. 

The small gears at the ends of the distributor screws 
are pinned to the shafts with small taper pins. It is 
best not to attempt their removal without using suitable 
sraight pin punches almost as large as the small ends of 
the taper pins. The pin punches should have straight 
(not tapered) shanks, and if your dealer does not carry 
them, can be obtained from the manufacturers of the 
machine. 

At this time see that all screws and bearings are thor¬ 
oughly polished, using strips of crocus cloth. Clean out 
all Qil holes and the oil channels in the screw bearings. 

TIMING THE SCREWS 

When reassembling the gears on the screw shafts the 
gears must be timed—that is, there are pins and cut-out 
teeth which mesh with each other for every revolution 
of the gears. This insures the threads being exactly in 
relation to each other so that when matrices are on the 
distributor bar they will be urged forward by the three 
screw threads in unison—that is, each one of the threads 
will bear against the matrix lugs and hold its squarely 
at right-angles with the distributor bar. A test can be 
made by holding a new, thick pi matrix against the screw 
threads and apply a small square, resting it against the 
lower screw and moving up to the matrix one way, 
horizontally; then hold the square vertically against the 
bottom of the distributor bar and slide against the 
matrix, meanwhile holding the matrix against the screw 
threads so that all three lugs will bear against the screw 
threads. If the lower end of the matrix is advanced no 
particular attention need be paid to it, as this is some¬ 
what of an advantage for good distribution. 

While making the above test with a square, the matrix 
can be held against all three distributor screw threads 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


193 


by placing a screw driver on upper front lug of the 
matrix. 

It will also be noticed that when distributor screws are 
in time the starting points of the threads will be in the 
same relative position to each other. This can be veri¬ 
fied by looking at the points of the distributor box end 
of the screws. 

It is interesting to know that shifting the bottom 
screw gear one tooth ahead will advance the lower dis¬ 
tributor threads about .020" ahead of the threads on 
the upper screws. 



XX 


LINOTYPE TWO-PITCH 
DISTRIBUTOR 

HE GREATEST advancement made in recent 



years in perfecting the mechanism of the linotype 


**■ is the development and completion of the two-pitch 
distributor screw. 

While the mats are being carried by the screws to their 
various channels they move at a speed which is twice as 
fast as on the old four-pitch screw which was univer¬ 
sally employed previous to the application of the two- 
pitch screw. The rapid distribution of matrices main¬ 
tains at least one-third more matrices in the magazines 
while the machine is in operation—that is, the matrices 
are returned to their respective channels in one-half the 
time during distribution. There being only two threads 
to the inch on this screw, it follows that wide matrices 
may be distributed, the screw not permitting them to 
touch or rub each other while traveling along the bar. 
It is claimed by the manufacturers that the narrow 
grooves in the linotype two-pitch screw prevent any ten¬ 
dency of the matrix to twist on the bar or in the screw 
threads. Mechanically speaking, the land is greater than 
the valley on the two-pitch screw. 

Theoretically, it seems that if some device other than 
the spiral automatics were employed for stopping the 
distributor when a matrix drops incorrectly, that the 
channel entrance partitions would soon become distorted 
and twisted out of line. To overcome this, and also to 
provide a sensitive, certain means of halting the distrib¬ 
utor, rotary wedges or spiral automatics, a-b. Fig. 50, are 
mounted on the ends of the screws. These automatics 
take the place of the old flexible channel entrance parti¬ 
tions, the tripping bar and the clutch lever (old-style). 
Much lost motion is eliminated in this action and the 
device is extremely sensitive. 

As mentioned above, the spiral automatics are mounted 
on the ends of the upper and lower front distributor 
screws. The spiral wedge on the upper screw, a, is 


[ 194 ] 


Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


195 


pinned tightly to the screw. The lower wedge, b, is 
mounted on the screw and held against a stop pin by a 
small spiral coil spring, c. When a matrix is caught be¬ 
tween the lower screw and a channel entrance partition, 
the lower screw is retarded sufficiently to slow the lower 



rotary wedge and the upper one locks tightly against the 
lower spiral. This stops the distributor. Before starting 
the distributor again it will be neecessary to unlock the 
spiral automatics by turning a knurled hand knob, d, 
backwards, at the outside end of the distributor,. which 
will allow the coil spring, c, to pull the lower spiral, b, 
back into position where it will again be in time with 
the upper spiral. 

Then let go of the knob, d, twisting it forward at the 
same time so the clutch blocks will remain engaged until 
the distributor has been set in motion and caught up 
with the speed of the driving pulley. 

The spiral automatics are really narrow sections of 
screw threads that revolve freely as long as they are in 
time. The thin edge of one wedge is opposite the thick 
edge of the other wedge. This device assumes practically 
all the strain of impact from the stopping of the dis- 




































































196 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


tributor. The old style distributor often bent matrices, 
especially the thin ones, when the screw thread crowded 
a matrix against the channel entrance partition, the par¬ 
tition in turn crowding against the tripping bar, which 
released the clutch lever and allowed the clutch screw 
to enter the flange on the distributor pulley, separating 
the clutch face from the pulley. 

The two-pitch distributor screw stopping mechanism 
as well as the pulley parts and the starting device, to 
work successfully, should be lubricated with a light oil. 
An oil should be used that will not gum. Thick or tacky 
accumulation on the parts will certainly prevent them 
working properly. An occasional application of coal oil 
will be found beneficial. 

Any dry or rusty bearing in the distributor will slow 
down its speed and seriously interfere with matrices 
clearing the channel entrance partitions as they drop off 
the distributor bar. In this case work out all rust from 
the bearing, which can as a rule be done by the applica¬ 
tion of a rust solvent, such as coal oil, applied from a 
small oiler, following with regular machine oil. 

The two-pitch distributor is usually adjusted as fol¬ 
lows for matrices clearing the channel entrance parti¬ 
tions : 

Run a dozen lower case matrices into the distributor 
screws, say the lower case “f,” throw off the distributor 
driving belt and slowly turn the distributor by hand. As 
the matrices drop as the distributor is slowly turned, 
they should light directly on top of the right-hand chan¬ 
nel entrance partition of the lower case “f” channel. To 
adjust the distributor to accomplish this there is a side 
adjusting screw in the beam near the clutch on the front 
side. That is, in order to obtain this adjustment, the dis¬ 
tributor beam must be moved one way or the other. 
When the distributor is running by motor power, momen¬ 
tum will throw the matrices to the centre of the chan¬ 
nels. It should be remembered that variation in machine 
speeds might affect the matrices clearing the channel 
entrance partitions as they drop. Also, as mentioned 
above, a dry, gummy or rusty bearing slowing the speed 
of the screws will affect the clearance of the matrices 
in relation to the channel entrance partitions. 

See that none of the partitions are bent or twisted. 
These can be straightened with duckbill pliers. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


197 


On models 8 and 14 linotypes there is a movable guard 
plate interposed between the upper and lower front dis¬ 
tributor screws. This guard is placed there to prevent 
changing magazines while there are any matrices in the 
distributor. It also assists matrices to clear the lower 
distributor screw threads when dropping into the chan¬ 
nel entrance by tilting the upper end of the matrices to¬ 
ward the channel entrance plate, away from the lower 
screw threads. It sometimes happens that this guard 
is jammed so that the distributor screw guard operating 
lever does not hold it just up to matrices while they are 
traveling across the bar. The operating lever can be re¬ 
moved and bent a trifle so it will hold the guard in 
proper position, which is just up to matrices, but not so 
far as to permit matrices to rub against it. It is a dif¬ 
ficult operation to straighten a guard plate that has 
been kinked by the operator jamming the automatic 
matrix guard lever against matrices that have not yet 
distributed when making a magazine change. 

The spring, c, that holds the spiral automatic, b, in 
position against its stop pin, if weak, will not allow the 
distributor to work with certainty, also it will cause the 
distributor to be thrown out of action for no apparent 
reason. This spring should have enough tension to keep 
the pins in the automatic in contact with the distributor 
when running, but not so strong but what the automatics 
will be allowed to separate when a clog takes place. 

The little screw which runs in the groove in the clutch 
to prevent the clutch wheel from following back against 
the face of the clutch should be in far enough to engage 
the driving pulley and prevent it following up. 

The pilot screw which appears in the slug, e, should be 
turned to position tightly and not bind the shaft. The 
knurled nut, d, should come against the shoulder before 
the screw, f, strikes the flange washer. 

If the clutch seems weak and sluggish the collar to 
which the two clutch springs are attached can be twisted 
around until the tension is stronger on the springs. If 
the springs have too much tension the distributor belt 
will slip off the pulley when the distributor should stop, 
before the blocks can become disengaged. 

It is necessary at times to roughen the clutch leather 
washer so it will grab the pulley when the distributor is 
in motion. Remove the large knurled nut on the outside 



198 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


of the distributor, remove the clutch lever, turn out the 
hexagon head screw in the clutch bracket, spring out and 
remove bracket, unscrew the flange washer screw in the 
end of the flange shaft and the pulley may be lifted off. 
Roughen the leather on flint paper laid on a flat sur¬ 
face. Avoid oil on the leather washer. If it is very dry 
a small amount of belt dressing rubbed in with the finger 
tips will help. 

PRIMARY DISTRIBUTOR BOXES AND 
ALTERNATORS 

The primary distributor boxes on models 9 and 24 lino¬ 
types work on the same principle as any box on a single 
distributor machine suitably modified to accommodate 
matrices passing through, according to the range of work 
of these particular machines. 

A few notes will assist in making clear the functions 
and maintenance of the various parts. 



The lift lever is operated by cam g, Fig. 50-a, having 
a small roll, /. Particular pains should be taken to see 
that this roll constantly revolves and also that a light 
film of oil is kept on the lift lever upper link which 
works in the link guide, h. Dry friction here will set 
up a rusty coating which is detrimental to the proper 













































Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


199 


operation of the lever. A little graphite put on with the 
oil will prevent undue friction between the link and 
guide. 

When the lift raises matrices into the screws there 
should be a small amount of space between the upper 
surface of the upper rails and the under side of the upper 
matrix lugs, and this adjustment is effected by loosening 
the lock nuts i, and turning the link screw e. The spring 
k serves as a means of overthrow in case the primary 
distributor spiral automatics do not lock or the primary 
clutch fails to disengage, which will prevent damage to 
the parts of the matrix being raised. 

There is a flat spring embedded in the upper front 
distributor box rail. Its functions are to gently crowd 
the matrices against the back plate for a common lifting 
position and holds the first matrix in the box so that if 
the shifter is retracted while there are matrices in the 
box the first matrix will be held snugly so that the dis¬ 
tributor will not be thrown out of action because the first 
matrix might have been slightly twisted in position and 
interfered with the upstroke of the lift. As soon as the 
little extended swell or bulge of the spring has worn off 
renew the spring. 

Clean the shifter buffer face frequently to remove any 
gummy substance. Use a small amount of oil on the 
distributor shifter spring rod so that it functions freely. 

It is good policy to renew the primary box rails after 
they show very much wear on their vertical faces. 

There is a device on the primary box intended to alter¬ 
nate the lifting of thick matrices into the distributor 
rails—that is, matrices of certain thicknesses are lifted 
at every other stroke of the lift lever. This improves 
distribution by separating the thicker matrices so that 
in dropping from the secondary screws succeeding mat¬ 
rices will not have advanced far enough to bind the fall¬ 
ing matrix against a distributor lower screw. This is an 
especially valuable device on the model 9 which is 
equipped with four-pitch secondary distributor screws. 

This device is not intended to alternate lifting into the 
primary distributor screws those matrices thinner than 
.150" to .200" for the reason that the distribution of 
matrices might be slowed so much as to interfere with 
the regular operation of the most used characters on the 
keyboard. 



200 Linotypes and Intertypes _ 

In setting the alternator there are two adjustments. 
First, set the support, j, horizontally by loosening screw 
d and positioning support by shifting right or left so 
that when the lift is on the downstroke it won t be stopped 
by hook b resting on the support j. In cases where com¬ 
bination fonts are used in one magazine or certain full 
fonts, some matrices will be so cut that their lugs will 
be in the center of the matrix body, shown at a. Pass 
some of these into the primary box and set the support 
until the hook clears the projection of the support on the 
downstroke of the lift. Then adjust the hook b held in 
place by screw c until matrices of the desired thickness 
are lifted into the screws at every other stroke of the 
matrix lift. It may then be necessary to slightly read¬ 
just support j, but this is not often the case. 

SECONDARY DISTRIBUTOR BOXES 

Those gravity distributor boxes on models 9 and 24 
linotype machines will require somewhat different at¬ 
tention than the primary boxes, or the regular type of 
distributor box on single-distributor machines. 

Their successful operation depends almost entirely 
upon the state of cleanliness and polish of the various 
parts, especially the rails, so that nothing will interfere 
with the sliding of matrices as they descend through the 
box by gravity and are fed one at a time into the dis¬ 
tributor screws by the escapement pawls. 

It is recommended, especially where thin matrices are 
used, that the boxes be removed from the machine once 
a day, and the rail surfaces, down which the matrices 
slide, be wiped free from any roughness or gummy ac¬ 
cumulation and polished with dry graphite, also the 
chutes or “goosenecks” through which the matrices fall 
from the primary to the secondary distributors. 

After removing the box from the machine lift out the 
separating block and use a cloth wrapped on a small 
stick and pass it into the open side of the box. Polish 
the tops of the rails, both upper and lower, especially at 
the place shown at the point, i, Fig. 51. There will be a 
roughness or accumulation here at the end of a day’s 
run that will prevent thin matrices from sliding by their 
own weight against the pawls, k and l. 

As a further insurance of keeping the boxes properly 
separating matrices, once a week remove them from the 





Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


201 


machine one at a time. Lift out the separating block, 
remove the escapement pawls and guide; turn box over, 
remove the front plate and the front plate lower rail. It 



will not be necessary to take the upper rail from the 
front plate. Thoroughly clean all parts and polish them 
with graphite. Take the escapement pawls, k and l, from 
the guide, s, and polish them on a graphite board, shak¬ 
ing off all free graphite afterwards. See that all the 
male pawl escapement rolls, e, Fig. 52, are free and have 
no flat spots and apply a tiny bit of clock oil to their 
bearings. Brush out the escapement pawl guide, with 
a channel entrance cleaning brush and vigorously polish 
with graphite. When reassembling, put a drop of clock 
oil on the pin, d, Fig. 52, and also on each side of the 
pivot screws, d, Fig. 51. 

A regular routine each week will insure these boxes 
giving a minimum amount of trouble. 

Polish the insides of the secondary distributor chutes 









































































202 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


once a week at the same time the boxes are given at¬ 
tention. 

There are only two or three adjustments to be made in 
these boxes and when once correctly set will operate a 
long time, provided the box parts are regularly cleaned 
and polished. 

The stroke of the escapement pawls, k and /, is regu¬ 
lated by the setting of the upper escapement lever operat¬ 
ing link, h. This is adjusted until the male pawl point at 
its lowest stroke clears the bottom of the slot, j, about 
1 /64" in the matrix shown in Fig. 51. This adjustment 
is obtained by loosening the screw, g, turning back the 
plate and revolving the upper link, h. When making this 
adjustment try both a thin space and capital “W” matrix 
so that the point of the male pawl, /, will clear the bot¬ 
tom of the slot about 1/64". 



If the escapement pawl guide, s, should slip down so 
that pin, m, is away from the box, heavy matrices will 
jump over the pawl points and try to feed two at a time 
into the distributor screw threads. In other words, the 
female pawl, k, will drop too low to retain the matrices 
while the male pawl is getting ready to feed a matrix 















Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


203 


into the screws. It sometimes happens that the fixed po¬ 
sition of the escapement guide, is too low so that heavy 
matrices will jump over the female pawl. The position 
of the pawl guide is regulated by the stop pin, m. While 
the box is off the machine move the pawls by hand until 
the top points of both pawls are even, or equalized as to 
height, shown at b. Drop an em quad matrix into the 
box and note how much of a retaining hold the female 
pawl has on the bottom of the matrix. If the pawl, k, 
does not cover the bottom of the matrix by at least 
1/32", the top of the pin, m, can be dressed off to raise 
the guide so that when a heavy matrix bounces down 
the chute against the pawls it will not jump over. The 
latitude for variance of the adjustment of the guide is 
generous, so long as the pawl covers matrices at least 
1 /32". 

Keep the screws in the escapement lever operating lever 
spring, c, tight, also the various screws, ee and f. Lost 
motion in these parts is detrimental to good distribution. 

The lever pivot, d, is for the purpose of taking up all 
lost motion and a remarkably fine adjustment can be ob¬ 
tained. Turn the pivot screw, d, until tight, then slightly 
loosen it and tighten the check nut. Very much lost mo¬ 
tion in this pivot will interfere with the proper operation 
of the escapement pawls. See that the pivots are lubri¬ 
cated regularly. 

It is intended that the space, horizontally, between the 
tops of the female pawl point, k, and the male pawl point, 
l, when of the same height, shown at a, should not be 
much greater than 1/64". 

Sometimes the point of the male pawl, /, becomes worn 
or bent through a jam. The point can be heated to a 
bright red, tapped over with a small brass drift rod and 
hammer while held in a vise, heated again and dropped 
into water to restore the hard point. While holding the 
pawl point in a flame heat it only far enough down to 
remove the temper—about The male pawl will wear 

out at the top point long before the other one. It is some¬ 
times advisable to apply a new male pawl instead of re¬ 
pointing it. 

When there seems to be too much play between the 
pawls or pawl points, see if any of the little rollers, e, 
are flat. Also see if the thin edges of the guide, shown 
at b, are worn. The space here can be reduced by bend- 



204 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


ing in the edges cf the guide slightly in a bench vise, 
if carefully done. 

If the female pawl, k, becomes bowed or bent so that 
it binds the pawls in the guide, it can be straightened again 
by placing in a vise between three blocks, shown in Fig. 



53, and gently squeezing until straight. The pawl can be 
straightened without removing from the links. If the 
pawl is removed from its link fill the hole with a pin be¬ 
fore squeezing in the vise to avoid crushing in the eyelet. 

The two main things to observe in the care of second¬ 
ary distributor boxes are the maintenance of polish on 
the parts and the elimination of too much lost motion. 


















XXI 


INTEETYPE TWO-PITCH 
DISTRIBUTOR 

T HE INTERTYPE two-pitch distributor screw has 
two screw threads to the inch. The land surface 
of the screw is equal to the valley, or, in other 
words, the screw thread is as wide as the groove between 
the threads. The old-style intertype distributor screw 
had four threads to the inch, consequently the two-pitch 
screw will carry matrices twice as fast across the bar 
for distribution. 

When a matrix drops crooked, due to defective combi¬ 
nation teeth, or becomes tangled in such a manner that 
the distributor should stop, the lower front screw pushes 
the matrix against the bronze channel entrance partition, 
which in turn pushes against a tooth on the tripping bar, 
throwing up the clutch lever and a screw in the lever 
engages a flange in the clutch pulley and disengages the 
distributor. 

The intertype channel entrance “floats’'—that is, the 
gate is pivoted on two brackets on the distributor fork 
and the entrance is free at the lower end to rest posi¬ 
tively on each magazine as it is placed in position. This 
insures that the channel entrance will be properly posi¬ 
tioned in relation to each magazine, so that the channel 
entrance partitions will align with the magazine entrance 
channel partitions no matter which magazine on the ma¬ 
chine is being used. As mentioned above, the channel 
entrance is pivoted at the rear so that it will be free to 
move up and down at the lower end. There is a locating 
finger at each side of the lower end of the channel en¬ 
trance and these fingers rest directly on top of the maga¬ 
zine when the channel entrance is closed after making a 
magazine change, or when clearing up a distributor stop. 

The pivot screw at the lower case side of the channel 
entrance has several very thin washers between the lug of 
the entrance frame and the fork of the bracket. These 
washers are designed to adjust the channel entrance in 
relation to the magazine so that the right-hand or con- 
[ 205 ] 


206 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


stant partition will align with the magazine entrance 
channel partitions. Do not use the washers to adjust 
the entrance so matrices will clear the tops of the parti¬ 
tions as they drop—this adjustment is provided for by 
two screws in the top of the beam and fork above the 
distributor box. The washers can be divided so the 
lower ends of the channel entrance partitions will exactly 
match the magazine channels. 

There are feathers or flat springs at the lower ends 
of each of the channel entrance partitions which can be 
manipulated so as to direct matrices into the magazine 
without permitting them to slide at an angle and cause 
clogs. The right-hand partition as you face the channel 
entrance while standing on the step, is constant, and the 
left-hand feather is adjustable. A pair of duckbill pliers 
will manipulate these feathers to a nicety. The channel 
entrance partitions extend into the magazine about Yz". 

The distributor bar on the intertype, as well as the 
channel entrance partitions, are variably spaced, instead 
of being equi-distant. This spacing has some advantages, 
and the claim is made that it does not require as much 
space for a lower case “i” to deliver into the magazine 
as a capital “W” matrix. The lower case “i” channel is 
much narrower than most of the other channels and the 
side walls or partitions support the matrix in an upright 
position as they slide down into the magazine. 

There is a distributor screw guard interposed between 
the front upper and lower screws. This is a flat plate 
running the length of the screws and is fixed as to posi¬ 
tion. The function of this guard is to flip the tops of 
matrices back and away from the lower screw threads as 
they drop off the distributor bar, and prevents the upper 
front lugs of matrices binding between the screw threads 
and the channel entrance partitions. When once set so 
as not to rub directly against matrices traveling along the 
bar it will not need adjusting again. It should be set 
so that when new pi matrices are on the bar there will 
be about 1 /64" between the guard and the matrices. The 
matrix guard or apron which lays on top of the channel 
entrance partitions should be inspected occasionally to see 
that it has not been warped or bent out of true straight 
line. If bent up at either end it may interfere with 
matrices sliding freely into the magazine. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


207 


ADJUSTMENTS 

The channel entrance partitions to align with the maga¬ 
zine entrance partitions. Position by means of the thin 
washers in pivot screw near lower case side. 

Occasionally go over the channel entrance partitions 
and fit them so the tops will be straight and at right 
angles with the distributor screw; any blunt tops can 
be dressed with a fine pillar file. Shake the tripping bar 
back and forth and if any of the partitions move, 
straighten them. 

Adjust the beam so that when matrices fall they will 
just strike the tops of the channel entrance partitions 
when the distributor is slowly turned by hand. When 
the power is applied momentum will throw the matrices 
to the center of the channels as they drop. 

The floating channel entrance, when resting in normal 
position, banks on two square head set screws at either 
side. These should be adjusted to hold the entrance 
about 1/32" away from the magazine, so that the chan¬ 
nel entrance will not rest against the magazine. 

The distributor clutch lever adjusting plate should be 
set so that the tripping lever will rest against it about 
1/32", so that the strain of stopping the distributor will 
not bend any of the channel entrance partitions. 

Excessive motor speed may affect the setting of the 
beam in respect to the dropping of matrices so that they 
will not clear or carry over the partitions as originally 
set. 

A dry bearing may slow up the distributor and inter¬ 
fere with the original setting of the beam. A shot of coal 
oil will dissolve rust or gummy accumulation in a bear¬ 
ing and permit the distributor screws to run at normal 
speed again. 

The clutch pulleys may be removed by taking off the 
clutch lever, unscrewing the hexagon head screw in the 
clutch bracket, and removing the screw in the front screw 
bracket. The clutch bracket may be sprung out and the 
entire clutch taken to the bench for cleaning. Rough up 
the leather disk in the clutch flange. See that the oil 
hole in the clutch pulley is clear and return the plug 
screw to place. 

The gear on the clutch shaft can be placed in time 
with the upper and lower front screw gears by placing 
the timing teeth in triangular shape and then meshing 
the gears. 



XXII 


FRICTION DRIVING CLUTCH 


T HE FRICTION driving clutch on the linotype and 
intertype furnishes the motive power for these 
machines and is automatic in action. 

The process of starting a machine is as follows: When 
the lever is pulled by hand, the eccentric screw, a, Fig. 
54, pushes against the lower lug of the vertical start¬ 



ing lever, the upper lug of the vertical starting lever 
pushes the stopping pawl off the upper stopping lever. 
The pressure of the stopping pawl being released from 
[ 208 ] 



































Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


209 


the upper stopping lever allows the spring tension to 
loosen through the lower stopping lever and the forked 
lever, h. The collar, c, against which the forked lever 
has been bearing, pulls the toggle, d, in and this causes 
the clutch leathers, e e, to bind tightly against the inner 
rim of the pulley, /. The clutch gets its power from a 
coil spring, g, placed in the hollow driving shaft. The 
small pinion, h, meshes with the large-toothed cam in 
the main cam shaft, and is geared 11 to 1. That is, the 
small pinion revolves 11 times to one revolution of the 
large gear, and the large gear turns around once for each 
revolution of the machine. 

There are certain adjustments to the friction clutch 
which should be maintained, the most important of which 
are the space between the machine bearing and the collar 
on the clutch shaft, and the space between the forked 
lever and the collar. 

The space between the machine bearing and the collar 
should be 15/32 of an inch, and is secured by packing 
thin paper shims between the clutch arm shoes, it, and 
the leather faces, e e. Packing thin paper pieces under 
the leathers, the same shape as the leathers, will dimin¬ 
ish the space between the machine bearing and the collar, 
while filing off the leather faces with a rasp will increase 
the space. The thickness of the leather facings on the 
clutch arm shoes should be equal. That is, if you 
place one piece of paper packing under one leather 
facing, put a similar piece of paper under the other 
leather facing. This will give the clutch an equal pulling 
power against the inside rim of the driving pulley. 

It will be an impossibility to maintain an exact setting 
of the adjustment from day to day, but an occasional in¬ 
spection will prevent loss of clutch power in case the 
collar, c, should bear so tightly against the forked lever 
as to release some of the pulling power of the spring, g. 

The 1 /32 of an inch space between the collar, c, and 
the forked lever, b, is secured after the 15/32 adjustment 
is made, by adjusting the screw in the upper stopping 
lever. 

A gauge to determine these spaces can be made from 
a thin piece of steel, cutting it down until it is 15/32 
of an inch wide and about 1 /32 inch thick. A gauge for 
this purpose is illustrated in d, Fig. 17, in Chapter 9. 

The 15/32 adjustment can only be tested when the 



210 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


power is off, and the cams are backed off from the upper 
stopping lever, or until the machine is backed a sufficient 
distance so that the second elevator descends. Also open 
the controlling lever in front of the machine. The ma¬ 
chine will then be in a position representing the same 
action as though it were running under power. 

The bushing, j, is placed in the end of the shaft to 
strengthen the spring should occasion require. The outer 
end of the spring bears against this bushing and this 
adjustment will prove a convenience on occasion. 

The spring, g, in the shaft, should have a tension of 16 
pounds. To determine whether or not the spring is strong 
enough, shut off the power, back cams as explained above, 
and open the controlling lever. Catch an ordinary spring 
scale in the toggle, d, of the clutch, and when the toggle 
commences to move while you are pulling with the scale, 
the scale can be read. With some recessed molds now in 
use the spring will require more than 16 pounds pressure 
to successfully eject the slug. 

If the machine does not turn over steadily, it is possi¬ 
ble for the clutch leathers to be oily, or perhaps they are 
very hard and dry, or the brass screws which hold the 
leather facings to the shoes may protrude a sufficient 
distance above the leathers to allow the clutch to slip. 
These brass screws are used so that in case they do pro¬ 
trude above the surface of the leather facings they will 
not scratch or otherwise damage the inside rim of the 
driving pulley. 

The friction clutch device as used on slug casting ma¬ 
chines is automatic and easily handled, and yet if there 
should be a reason for slippage due to accidental causes, 
the clutch will give or slip, so as not to damage the ma¬ 
chine. If clutch adjustments seem to be in good working 
order, and the machine does not pull around steadily, 
the chances are there is a dry bearing, a flat roll, too 
tight a lockup of the metal pot lever spring, or some 
screw has worked loose and interferes with the normal 
stresses of the machine. Then again, should the operator 
forget to change his knife when increasing the body 
thickness of a slug the machine will stall at ejection posi¬ 
tion. The advantages of this device are apparent when 
once studied a little. It would be wrong to increase 
the tension of the clutch spring when the machine stalls 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


211 


clue to a dirty plunger. Rather, clean the plunger regu¬ 
larly so the clutch won’t have abnormal duties. 

Never use rosin or other dope on the clutch leathers 
to try to cause them to have more pulling power. Main¬ 
tain adjustments, keep the leathers and the inside of the 
pulley clean. 

In time, the teeth of the small driving pinion, h, will 
have become worn sharp. This will allow some back lash 
between the teeth of the pinion and the teeth of the large 
gear, and cause some thumps and thuds because the cam 
shaft will run ahead suddenly or drag, according to the 
stresses during a revolution of the machine. It will then 
be time to apply a new pinion. If the pinion has been 
on the shaft for a long time it may be “frozen” to the 
shaft. In this case, after driving out the taper pins, apply 
a torch and heat the pinion shank and shaft. 

The driving pulley, f, is lined with a brass bushing 
around the bearing and in time this bushing will have 
become worn to a shape resembling an ellipse. This will 
interfere with the pulling power of the clutch and the 
action of the machine. A new one can be applied. Drive 
out the old one with a lead hammer and piece of wood 
or lead. Apply the new one in the same manner. If the 
bushing does not enter as it should it can be scraped 
down. A new bushing should enter with enough friction 
that it will not work loose. This bushing should be 
kept in good shape, especially with geared motor drives. 
A motor pinion working against the driving pulley that 
has a loose or worn bushing will be noisy. 

When applying a new motor pinion to the motor shaft, 
have it fit the shaft snugly, but not so tight as to swell 
or crack when pushing on the shaft. If a reamer is not 
at hand, carefully enlarge the pinion shaft hole and try 
on the shaft between filings. Set motor on its bracket 
and place three strips of newspaper between the motor 
pinion and the driving gear, then tighten motor frame 
nuts. 



XXIII 


MAIN MOVEMENTS OF MACHINE 

I T SHOULD be borne in mind when studying and be¬ 
coming familiar with the following actions that the 
list contemplates only the main and principal ones, 
and no mention is made of the multiplicity of minor 
actions taking place which are vital to successful opera¬ 
tion. 

Familiarity with the actions of the machine while it is 
performing its natural functions will make it that much 
easier for you to locate abnormal or missing actions 
when the machine does not do the things it should do. 
While it may be distasteful to study the following para¬ 
graphs they will be found of great value in locating any 
trouble due to faulty machine actions, especially if 
memorized: 

After a line of matrices and spacebands is assembled 
in the assembling elevator, the line is raised to the line 
delivery carriage. The carriage being released takes the 
line of matrices and spacebands to the first elevator. As 
soon as the line delivery carriage stops against the stop 
screw in the face plate the machine automatically starts. 

1. The first elevator descends and positions the line 
of matrices and spacebands in front of the mold. 

2. The justification lever descends. 

3. The mold is turned with the mold disk from eject¬ 
ing position to casting position. 

4. The vise closing lever rises and the vise closing 
apparatus closes the left-hand vise jaw to standard 
position. 

5. The mold disk advances the mold to within .01 of 
an inch of the line of matrices and vise jaws. 

6. The first justification lever rises, and justifies the 
spacebands for the first time so that the bands nearest 
the keyboard as driven farthest up. 

7. The first justification lever descends, taking the up¬ 
ward pressure from the spacebands. 

8. The vise closing lever descends, retracting the left 
vise jaw, and slightly relieving endwise pressure from 
the line of matrices to allow matrix alignment. 

[ 212 ] 


Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


213 


9. The first elevator rises slightly, to align the mat¬ 
rices vertically. The lower back lugs of the matrices 
are pulled up against the underside of the aligning rail 
in the face of the mold. This is called vertical align¬ 
ment. 

10. The metal pot is urged forward by the pot cam 
and advances the mold against the matrix line for face- 
wise adjustment. 

11. The metal pot pressure is relieved, pot falls back 
slightly. 

12. The vise closing lever takes an upward stroke, 
and this permits the vise closing jaw rod and spring to 
operate the left-hand vise jaw inwardly to position the 
jaw so there will be no overhanging letters on the left 
end of the slug. 

13. The first justification and the vise closing levers 
rise at the same time, causing the vise justification block 
to strike the bottom ends of the spacebands horizontally, 
pushing the spacebands upward. Those spacebands near¬ 
est the left jaw will rise the greatest distance. 

While the machine is performing its various actions 
(5 to 13) the line delivery carriage is returned to normal 
position, and another line can be immediately sent in, 
where it will stop in the delivery channel and wait until 
the machine has finished delivering the slug cast from 
the previous line of matrices and spacebands. 

14. The metal pot again advances against the mold 
and tightly presses or locks the matrices, mold and pot 
mouthpiece for the cast. 

15. The plunger descends in the well of the metal 
pot crucible and forces metal through the mouthpiece 
jets, into the mold and against the mold cells of the 
matrices. 

16. The pressure caused by action 9 is relieved, re¬ 
leasing alignment and justification pressure from the mat¬ 
rices and spacebands. The mold and the metal pot back 
away from the matrices, the slug being pulled away from 
the matrix line. 

17. The mold disk stops and the pot breaks away 
from the mold, separating the mouthpiece from the base 
of the slug. 

18. The mold disk revolves three-quarters of a revo¬ 
lution counter-clockwise, during which it carries the base 
of the slug past the back trimming knife, which trims 



214 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


the slug to type-high. The mold disk stops with the 
mold in vertical position in front of the side trimming 
knives, as well as now being in ejecting position. Dur¬ 
ing this action the first elevator rises to transfer position 
at the transfer channels and the second elevator travels 
down until it seats on the transfer channels. 

19. The second elevator transfer slide moves the line 
of matrices and spacebands into the transfer channel 
under the second elevator. The transfer slide retreats to 
permit the second elevator to lift the matrices out of the 
channels, and leaving the spacebands. The transfer slide 
returns to push the spacebands under the spaceband pawl, 
which has also advanced from an opposite direction. The 
spaceband lever brings the spacebands back to the box 
and the transfer slide returns to normal position. 

20. The ejector blade pushes the slug from the mold 
between the side trimming knives and out of the knife 
block. 

21. The first elevator now comes down to normal, in 
position to receive another line. The second elevator at 
this time is lifting the transferred line of matrices to the 
distributor box. As the second elevator ascends the dis¬ 
tributor shifter lever moves out in order to clear the 
second elevator and pushes the matrices into the distrib¬ 
utor box. The distributor box lift lever feeds the mat¬ 
rices one at a time onto the distributor bar and between 
the distributor screw threads. The matrices are urged 
along until they reach their proper channels, where they 
drop off into the channel. 

22. The first justification lever rises a little, actuating 
the slug lever, which pushes the slug into the stick or 
galley. 

23. The ejector lever and blade return to normal posi¬ 
tion. 



XXIV 


FUNCTIONS OF MAIN CAMS AND 
REMOVAL 


S TANDING at the rear of the machine and mounting 
from the right, the large or main cams have the 
following functions: 

The first is the first elevator cam, which lowers the 
matrix line to casting position and raises it after the cast 
to transfer position. 

The second is the mold turning cam, which gives power 
to operate the mold disk bevel turning pinion, by means 
of teeth or segments. This pinion will operate the mold 
disk through a smaller pinion, rated 4 to 1. 



The third is the distributor shifter cam, operating the 
distributor shifter lever, which pushes the line of matrices 
into the distributor box. 

The fourth is the second justification and vise closing 
lever cam. It operates the finishing stroke of spaceband 
justification, and also moves the left-hand vise jaw in and 
[ 215 ] 


















216 


Linotypes and Inter types 


out a trifle, to allow easy entrance into the jaws and after 
the cast an easy lift out of the jaws. 

The fifth is the justification lever cam, which operates 
the first justification lever. On the intertype this lever 
also operates the pump stop device. Through the justi¬ 
fication lever this cam also operates the slug lever at the 
front of the machine. 

The sixth is the second elevator cam. It actuates the 
second elevator, causing it to go down to the transfer 
channels and up again to its seat at the distributor box. 

The seventh is the pot pump cam, operating the 
plunger lever, forcing the metal into the mold. 

The eighth is the metal pot cam. It locks the pot 
against the mold for facewise justification, also to secure 
a metal-tight lockup between the pot mouthpiece and 
the mold. 

The ninth is the mold cam and driving gear. The mold 
cam operates the mold slide and advances the mold disk 
where the lugs of the matrices will be in the aligning 
groove of the mold for alignment. After the line is cast 
this cam returns the mold disk, advances the mold disk 
for ejection of the slug between the trimming knives, and 
returns the mold disk to normal position after the slug 
is ejected. This cam also carries the pot return cam, 
which makes certain that the pot will break away from 
the jets of the slug after the cast. This cam and gear 
also carries the ejector cam, a small cam mounted at 
the left side of the cam and gear, which urges the ejector 
lever forward for the ejection stroke. 

The tenth is the line delivery, and transfer and space- 
band lever cam: (a) It operates the levers for trans¬ 
ferring the matrices and returning the spacebands to the 
box; (b) It actuates the stopping and the safety pawls; 
(c) It returns the ejector lever to normal position; (d) 
It also releases the safety hook which holds the second 
elevator in a suspended position in case of accident or 
as a convenience during a distributor stop. 

REMOVING LINOTYPE MAIN CAMS 

1. Insert spikes or drill rod in lower ends of justifica¬ 
tion lever spring rods—this is to release upward pressure 
of springs from the cams. 2. Remove pot pump plunger. 
3. Hold pump stop open and run machine ahead until 
plunger lever descends, insert heavy wire in top loop of 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


217 


plunger lever spring and lift off spring. 4. Remove cam 
No. 10 locating piece—fastened to cam shaft with two 
screws. 5. Run machine ahead to transfer position, re¬ 
move second elevator lever by withdrawing shaft and 
lifting off assembled lever. 6. Run machine ahead again 
until first elevator rests on vise cap and open vise to 
first position. 7. Remove mold cam lever. 8. Remove 
pump lever. 9. Remove pump stop lever and lever 
bracket. 10. Remove pump lever bracket. 11. Put 
blocks under eyebolt lug beneath metal pot to hold pot 
forward, or pull pot forward by means of wires and 
fasten wires to face plate. 12. Remove the pot lever. 
13. Remove distributor shifter lever. 14. Disconnect 
shifter lever hub spring—use wire to lift off. 15. Re¬ 
move distributor shifter lever hub. 16. Put blocks be¬ 
tween first elevator jaws and vise cap to hold first ele¬ 
vator lever roll away from cam. 17. Remove first ele¬ 
vator auxiliary lever. 18. Remove first elevator cam. 
19. Remove ejector lever link. 20. Remove ejector 
lever by drawing upwards. 21. Remove mold gear arm. 
22. Remove motor if mounted at end of cam shaft above 
driving gear pulley. 23. Remove right-hand cam shaft 
bracket cap. 24. Loosen set screw and push cam No. 
10 toward other cams, then push cam shaft toward fric¬ 
tion clutch so when cams are lifted out the distributor 
shifter lever spring hook will not interfere with cam No. 
2. 26. Lift out cams. 

Turn out with socket wrench the four screws holding 
cams together. The desired cam can now be taken off 
after removing those in front of it. 

If the bolts have become frozen it may be necessary 
to apply a torch to heat them. 

If the gear cam is to be removed mark a ring around 
the cam shaft before removal with a scriber so as to 
exactly locate it on replacement. 

If the cam shaft keys are removed return them as orig¬ 
inally placed—beveled sides down. 

When replacing, thoroughly clean all cams, especially 
surfaces where the cams join. 

Note position of the clutch arm and maintain its posi¬ 
tion so that when the gear cam again meshes with the 
driving pinion the arm will be in the same position as be¬ 
fore. 



218 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


REMOVING INTERTYPE MAIN CAMS 

1. Insert drill rod or large spikes in lower ends of 
justification lever spring rods to release the upward pres¬ 
sure of levers from the cams. 2. Remove pot pump 
plunger. 3. Unscrew pot pump plunger rod and remove 
rod. 4. Remove cam No. 10 locating piece—fastened 
to cam shaft between cam No. 10 and gear cam. 5. Re¬ 
move second elevator lever counterbalance weight, loosen 
set screw and shove shaft toward clutch until the weight 
is free. 6. Run machine ahead to transfer position, re¬ 
move second elevator lever by withdrawing shaft and 
lifting off assembled lever. 7. Run machine ahead 
again until first elevator rests on vise cap and open vise 
to first position. 8. Disconnect mold disk slide safety 
lock and link from mold cam lever. 9. Remove mold 
cam lever. 10. Remove pump lever. 11. Remove 
pump stop operating rod and bracket. 12. Remove pump 
lever bracket. 13. Put blocks under eyebolt lug beneath 
metal pot to hold pot forward, or pull pot forward by 
means of wires and fasten wires to face plate. 14. Re¬ 
move the pot lever. 15. Remove distributor shifter lever. 
16. Disconnect shifter lever hub spring—use wire to lift 
off. 17. Remove distributor shifter lever hub. 18. 
Put blocks between first elevator and vise cap to hold 
first elevator lever roll away from cam. 19. Remove 
first elevator auxiliary lever. 20. Remove first elevator 
cam. 21. Remove ejector lever link. 22. Remove ejec¬ 
tor lever by drawing upward. 23. Remove mold gear 
arm. 24. Remove motor gear guard and lift off right- 
hand cam shaft bracket cap. 24. Loosen set screw and 
push cam No. 10 toward other cams, then push cam shaft 
toward friction clutch so when cams are lifted out the 
distributor shifter lever spring hook will not interfere 
with cam No. 2. 25. Lift out cams. 

Remove the collar at end of cam shaft. Turn out with 
socket wrench the four screws holding cams together. 
The desired cam can now be taken off after removing 
those in front of it. 

If the bolts have become frozen from long assemblage 
it is possible a torch may have to be applied to heat them. 

If the gear cam is to be removed, mark a ring around 
the cam shaft before removal with a scriber so as to 
exactly locate it on replacement. 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


219 


If the cam shaft keys are removed return them as 
originally placed—beveled sides down. 

When replacing thoroughly clean all cams, especially 
surfaces where the cams join. 

Note the position of the clutch arm and maintain its 
position so that when the gear cam meshes again with 
the driving pinion the arm will be in the same place as 
before. 




ADJUSTMENTS 


M OST of the following adjustments are common to 
both linotype and intertype and where an adjust¬ 
ment is exclusive to either it is so indicated. The 
adjustments given are made when a machine is new. 
After a machine has been in use for some time parts will 
become worn. It will be necessary to make these adjust¬ 
ments to compensate for the wear. It will also come 
within the experience of the novice that some of the so- 
called fixed parts will wear as well as the adjustable 
ones. For instance, before changing the first elevator 
downstroke banking screw, inspect the mold disk locking 
studs and blocks and note if there is a vertical movement 
of the disk during lockup position, due to the studs hav¬ 
ing become worn or the stud block bushing holes having 
become enlarged. It will also be in order to note if 
there is very much vertical movement of the left-hand 
floating stud block. There should only be a slight hori¬ 
zontal movement. This one example is mentioned so that 
you may temper your adjustment with due regard for 
the condition of the parts which will be affected by the 
adjustment about to be made. 

Driving or Friction Clutch—Have a space of 15/32 
inch between collar and machine bearing. This can be 
readily determined by inserting a piece of steel or brass 
between the parts exactly 15/32 inch wide. If there is 
not enough space thin the clutch leathers, and if too 
much space place paper underlays under the leathers. 
To make this adjustment, back the machine from normal 
position until the second elevator descends, have the 
starting lever open and the stopping pawl clear of the 
upper stopping lever. Also make sure the forked lever 
is not pressing against the collar when making this 
adjustment. 

Clutch Spring—To have a pressure of 16 or 20 
pounds. Catch an ordinary spring scale on the toggle 
of the clutch and read the scale as the clutch rod begins 
to pull out. Have the machine in operating position, as 
[ 220 ] 


Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


221 


described in the above paragraph. If you have no spring 
scale, and the spring is weak, stretch the spring about one 
inch and replace. 

Lower Stopping Lever—With the machine in oper¬ 
ating position allow 1 /32 inch between the forked lever 
and the collar. The screw for making this adjustment is 
in the upper stopping lever. A slight space here will pre¬ 
vent the forked lever interfering with the action of the 
spring in the friction clutch and yet will cause the ma¬ 
chine to stop at the right place. 

Automatic Pawls—From the right side of pawls to 
right-hand side of cam No. 10, in which the pawls are 
mounted, there should be a distance of 15/16 inch. The 
screw for making the adjustment is in the pawl and 
touches lugs of cam 10. The stopping pawl stops the 
machine in normal position; the safety pawl stops the 
machine at transfer point in case the transfer levers do 
not transfer the line of matrices. 

Upper Stopping Lever—Swing sideways so that 
when the automatic stopping pawls will rest on the upper 
stopping lever % inch. This pawl lies in the path of the 
starting and stopping pawls and stops the machine. When 
the pawl presses down on the upper stopping lever it 
forces the lower stopping lever against the forked lever, 
the forked lever bearing against the collar pushes out the 
clutch rod, the toggles releasing the leather shoes from 
the inside rim of the clutch pulley, stopping the machine. 

Vertical Lever—When the starting or controlling 
lever is pulled out by hand, the vertical lever lug should 
push the automatic pawls clear of the upper stopping 
lever. There is a headless screw in the outside of ver¬ 
tical lever bearing. This lever does not function except 
when the controlling lever is pulled by hand. Its action 
is as follows: The starting lever is pulled outward by 
hand, the eccentric screw in the starting rod bears against 
the lower lug of vertical lever, forcing the upper lug to 
push the automatic pawl clear of the upper stopping lever. 

Vertical Lever—When the automatic pawls are 
alongside of the upper lug of the vertical lever, there 
should be a space of 1 /64 inch between the two parts and 
to secure this space, adjust by means of the screw inside 
machine column. The lever is held in this position by a 
spring in vertical lever bearing near the top. 



222 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


Starting or Controlling Lever—Set the eccentric 

screw in the starting rod so there will be a space of 1 /32 
inch between the eccentric screw and the lower lug of the 
vertical lever. 

First Elevator Connecting Link—Measuring from 
the bottom of holes in eyebolts to shoulder of link, allow 
inch at top and 13/16 inch at bottom. It will be no¬ 
ticed this link has a very stiff spring inside the barrel 
which permits a yielding or springy lock-up of the first 
elevator when in casting position or at second elevator 
transfer point. When the first elevator slide and link are 
in place on the machine, the spring tongue on link barrel 
is used to hold the barrel proper in position after turn¬ 
ing the barrel to align the first elevator with delivery 
channels. 

First Elevator Slide Gibs—These gibs maintain the 
slide in position on the machine. They should be ad¬ 
justed so as to permit the slide to have free action and 
yet be close to the transfer and delivery channels with¬ 
out rubbing them. 

First Elevator Lever—When the first elevator is 
seated on the vise cap and the lever cam roll is above 
the low place on the cam, the roll should be free to 
revolve, the first elevator being supported by the vise 
cap at this point. Adjust the screw in the auxiliary lever 
until the roll is about 1 /16 from the cam when over the 
depression in the cam. This is to give the first elevator 
lever power to compress during lock-up when casting 
from matrices. After making this adjustment, more 
than likely the barrel in the first elevator link will need 
turning to align the first elevator and delivery channel. 

First Elevator. Extreme Upstroke—Raise or lower 
the first elevator with screw in bottom of slide until a 
pi matrix or line of matrices transfer freely to the sec¬ 
ond elevator bar. 

First Elevator, Casting Position—Allow 1 /64 inch 
between the vise cap and the adjusting screw when the 
first elevator is lifted for alignment just before the 
cast. Open vise jaws to 30 ems and use new pi matrices 
in first elevator when making this adjustment. 

First Elevator Slide Top Gu’de—When the second 
elevator lever is seated on transfer channels, the screw 
in the second elevator lever to depress releasing lever so 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


223 


there will be 1 /32 inch between the lug on transfer slide 
and the lever itself. If the second elevator lever does 
not come down or seat properly on the transfer channels 
the releasing lever will not be raised so as to permit the 
transfer slide to push matrices onto second elevator bar. 

First Elevator Slide Guide—Intermediate Bar— 
With second elevator seated on transfer channel, push 
the bar pawl up with the finger and adjust with two 
screws on top of cap until the bottom of the pawl is 
even with bottom of second elevator bar while the pawl 
is being held up. 

First Elevator Line Stop—When measures are 
changed this line stop should be just next to the first 
matrix after a line is justified. On the older machines a 
screw clamp is loosened and tightened again after the 
adjustment is made. Late machines have a spring clamp 
which automatically holds the line stop in any position. 
The line stop prevents the end mats on left side from 
falling out or twisting while the elevator is going up 
or down. 

Assembling Elevator—On the linotype the starting 
pin is supported by a headless screw. This screw is used 
to raise or lower the pin which releases the line delivery 
carriage when the assembling elevator is raised. 

Assembling Elevator Counterbalance Spring Hook 
—Screw hook in or out until the elevator falls easily 
and does not require much force to raise when sending in 
line to cast. The elevator should fall heavily enough 
when returning to place to depress the assembler slide 
operating rod or lever. 

Assembler Chute Spring or Finger—Have the 
spring the thickness of a cap W matrix away from the 
assembler chute rail. The points of this spring or finger 
should be bent down slightly below horizontal line with 
the heel of the finger so as to prevent matrices jumping 
out of assembling elevator during assemblage. It is well 
to have the points just miss the pawls in the assembling 
elevator as the line is raised. The spring tension should 
not be too stiff. When changing from six-point type to 
14 point it is necessary that there should be a greater 
space between the chute spring and assembler rail. If 
the star wheel spring tension is too stiff, the matrices 
will jump out of assembler. The star wheel spring 



224 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


should be just stiff enough to assemble a line of quads 
without hesitancy. Do not forget to oil the star wheel 
shaft regularly. 

Transfer Lever—From the left-hand side of trans¬ 
fer channels to right-hand side of transfer slide finger 
there should be a space of 5 9/16 inches on linotypes. 
On the intertype this space should be 5^ inches. Adjust 
by means of the split lever on shaft at rear of machine. 

Spaceband Lever—This lever is fastened to the 
transfer lever and gets its motion from it by being con¬ 
nected with a turnbuckle, the adjustment being correct 
when there is a space of of an inch between the point 
of the spaceband pawl and the point of the spaceband 
box top rail. This turnbuckle is inside the machine 
column. 

Transfer Slide—When the transfer levers have 
come together a second time after the matrices have 
started toward the distributor box, there should be a 
space of Y% of an inch between the cut in slide finger 
and the bottom of the slot in the spaceband lever pawl. 
The finger pushes the spacebands past the points of 
spaceband pawl so the pawl will return the bands to the 
box. Adjust by 8-32 screw in the transfer slide. 

Transfer Slide—First Stroke—Cut in slide finger 
to be flush with end of second elevator bar plate. Adjust 
by screw in automatic safety pawl. The cut in slide 
finger should be even with the end of the second elevator 
bar plate when the finger has pushed the matrices onto 
the second elevator bar during transfer. On late ma¬ 
chines the adjusting screw will be found at the outer 
end of the safety pawl and works directly against the 
cam rim. 

Spaceband Box—When the pawls are at their low¬ 
est stroke, the top of the pawls should be 1 /32 inch be¬ 
low the spaceband box rails. This is to allow the pawl 
to get under the spaceband ears to lift the spaceband 
over the points in the rails. Adjust by split head screw 
in spaceband lever. On early intertypes this adjustment 
applies, the box being of the same pattern. 

Spaceband Box—On linotypes there is a center bar 
on top of the box with two little lugs projecting, just 
above the spacebands. This bar is adjustable, the object 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


225 


being to position the center bar so if the second space- 
band wants to deliver as the first one is being lifted out 
by the pawls, the lugs will hold it down and not permit 
it to pass out at the same time. One screw in the center 
bar holds it tight. The intertype spaceband box has a 
small plate or retaining block on the front side of the 
box which is adjustable to prevent the second spaceband 
from delivering with the first one. Shut off power, 
depress spaceband lever key and slowly turn the rubber 
roll shaft by hand, watch how far the second spaceband 
moves forward when the first one is ready to drop out 
and adjust the retaining block so it will almost cover the 
second spaceband. 

Spaceband Box Throatpiece—On linotypes and 
early intertypes, there is a curved plate in the bottom of 
the box proper against which the lower ends of the space- 
bands hang. This plate should be bent so that the lower 
ends of the spacebands will cover the end of the plate 
about 1/16. It is immaterial just whether the space is 
1/16 of an inch so the plate will perform its work of 
preventing the lower ends of spacebands from falling 
into the chute. 

Line Delivery—Return Stroke—Adjust by means of 
split lever in rear of machine column until the carriage 
comes past the point of pawl 1 /64 of an inch. In mak¬ 
ing this adjustment tie the spaceband lever pawl with 
string to prevent it falling down and remove the space- 
band box. Turn on power and send the line delivery 
over just as though the machine were operating from a 
line of matrices in the regular way. Watch the line de¬ 
livery carriage return as the machine turns over. This 
way you can see just how far the carriage returns and 
make adjustment in the split lever accordingly. 

Line Delivery Carriage—Operative Stroke—When 
the line delivery carriage has made its extreme stroke to 
the left it should rest against the stop screw in the face 
plate. The correct distance is 13/32 of an inch inside 
the first elevator. Use the stop screw in face plate to 
make this adjustment. The purpose of this adjustment 
is to prevent the end matrices falling out while the first ele¬ 
vator is going down to casting position, also prevents 
the end matrices from becoming tangled with the right- 
hand vise jaw on the way down. 



226 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


Line Delivery, Automatic Pawl Adjustment—At 

the same instant that the carriage strikes the stop screw 
in the face plate, the roller on the other end of the lever 
should push the automatic stop pawl clear of the upper 
stopping lever 1 /64 of an inch. Loosen the binding 
screw in the plate and adjust the headless screw in or out. 
Then tighten the binding screw. The adjustment being 
normal, the machine will start when the line delivery is 
in this position. 

Mold Turning Cam—Steel shoes in mold turning 
cam to take up lost motion in pinion. Adjust by bushings 
in the cam against which the shoes rest. The shoes bring 
the mold disk to a position where the studs in the wheel 
are positioned so as to enter the bushings in the vise 
freely and without jar. When adjusting the shoes use a 
micrometer on them so as to have both ends square with 
the cam. On old machines more than likely the shoes 
will be “dished out” from wear and friction with the 
square block on the mold turning pinion. See that the 
facings on the pinion block and the shoes on the cam 
have true surfaces, both of which can be ground true 
at a machine shop. Allow a slight amount of play be¬ 
tween the square block and the shoe when the disk is for¬ 
ward on the bushings, both at casting and ejecting posi¬ 
tions. Have the shoes on the cam adjusted so that there 
will be a very slight movement of the bevel pinion when 
shaken by hand. 

Vise Jaws—The face of type on either end of slug 
should.come within .01 of an inch of the end of the slug 
body. On earlier linotypes adjust by means of locking 
screw in vise closing arm for the left-hand jaw. On 
late linotypes adjust the left-hand vise jaw as follows: 
Loosen the screw in the bottom end of the long wedge, 
send in a line containing two or more spacebands, and 
by means of the knurled screw in the vise cap casting, 
adjust until the face on left side is even with slug body. 
Then turn in on the screw in the bottom end of the long 
wedge so that the slug which has been cast cannot be 
inserted between the left- and right-hand jaws. Adjust 
the right-hand vise jaw by means of the screw in top of 
knife block. On intertypes the right-hand vise jaw is 
adjusted the same way. To adjust an intertype left-hand 
vise jaw, use the adjusting screw in the vise closing 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


227 


block, against which the left-hand jaw banks. Use the 
hexagon nut on the outside of the vise closing bracket 
to take up any lost motion. To make this adjustment 
take out wing pin at the bottom of the vise closing con¬ 
necting rod and let the rod rise as far as it will go. 
Turn in on hexagon nut until the connecting rod is free 
to move up and down without binding. 

Forward Thrust of Mold Slide—On forward thrust 
of mold slide the mold should come within .01 of an 
inch of the vise jaws or matrices. To make this adjust¬ 
ment, run first elevator down to vise cap, raise elevator 
and insert three strips of ordinary unused newspaper, 
about one inch wide between the vise jaws and the mold. 
It is a good plan to block the elevator up by means of 
pigs or a block of wood while making this adjustment, 
to a height of about six inches from the vise cap. When 
the paper has been inserted run machine ahead until the 
mold slide lever roller is on the crown of cam where 
thrust takes place. On late machines there is a small 
hardened block inset in the cam crease to prevent wear. 
The paper should just drag when pulled out, with the 
machine in this position. If the adjustment is too tight, 
the mold will prevent free justification of the spacebands 
and the matrices. This adjustment is effected by means 
of the eccentric pin in the mold slide lever. Tighten the 
nut when the adjustment is made. 

Mold Slide Support Screw —Run the mold slide 
onto bushings and allow .007'' between the head of screw 
and bottom of mold disk guide. When the mold wheel is 
forward on the pins place a piece of steel .007" thick be¬ 
tween the support and the adjusting screw in order to 
determine the .007" space. 

Vise Automatic Stop —When the mold disk comes 
forward the dog or plunger to just clear the pawl in stop 
rod. Adjust with the screw in top of first elevator, 
right-hand side. Place a thin space on the vise cap 
where the center screw strikes the vise cap. The adjust¬ 
ment will be right when the machine stops with the thin 
space in position as above, and will continue running 
when removed. In case anything interferes with the 
descent of the first elevator into the vise cap, such as an 
overset line, the machine will stop before any damage is 




228 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


done by the mold cutting the lower back lugs of the 
matrices. 

When the machine is stopped by the thin space see if 
the mold disk has advanced more than % of an inch 
beyond the mold turning pinion. If the distance is more 
than of an inch see if the clutch adjustments are 

correct. If adjusting the clutch does not prevent the 
mold disk advancing more than between and of an 
inch beyond the mold disk turning pinion, remove the 
vise automatic stop rod and bend it so there will be a 
slight curve in it, with the belly of the curve toward the 
mold disk. The disk dog or plunger will strike the stop 
rod pawl sooner and shut off the machine before the 
mold can damage matrices. The rod is made of malle¬ 
able iron and will stand shaping. Do not bend it at the 
place where the pawl is embedded as this is the rod’s 
weakest place. 

The machine shutting off on a tight line or other ob¬ 
struction is equivalent to pushing the controlling lever in 
by hand and the action is as follows: Mold wheel strikes 
dog or plunger, plunger strikes automatic stop rod, the 
lower end of which pushes against stop lever, stop lever 
bears against connecting rod and pushes the forked lever 
against the collar which is connected to one end of the 
clutch rod, the other end of this rod causes the clutch 
leathers to retract from the rim of the clutch pulley. 

Mold Disk Brake—This brake is to steady the mold 
wheel as it is revolving or about to come to a stop before 
going on the locking bushings. There is a screw passing 
through both halves of the brake and a spring between 
the brake and check nuts. Screw the adjusting nuts in 
only far enough to bind the shaft. If the brake is set 
too tight the leather linings will set up friction and badly 
score the shaft. Adjust the screw and nuts just tight 
enough to steady the wheel and prevent chattering. Oc¬ 
casionally reline the brake with new leathers and apply 
graphite and oil when first put on. 

Distributor Box Lift—When the distributor box lift 
is at its highest stroke, set the screw, d, Fig. 48, page, 185, 
in lever so that there is a space of 1 /32 of an inch be¬ 
tween the screw head and the corner of the box rails, 
distributor box rail, shown at t\ This prevents bending 
thin matrices and the catching of thick matrices be- 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


229 


tween the screw head and the corner of the box rails. 
The seat or lip of the box lift should be square and 
always thin enough so that when a matrix is held on 
the seat that the bottom edge of the lift seat will not 
project beyond the matrix, shown at /. If this seat is 
thicker than the matrix being lifted two matrices will 
be started and will bend or stop the distributor and 
interfere with free distribution. 

On the inner end of the distributor box bar there is 
a small steel point, a, the function of which is to hold 
down the second matrix while the first one is being 
raised by the lift. There is some friction between the 
matrix being raised by the lift and the one next to it, 
and this bar point prevents the second matrix from start¬ 
ing up. If this point becomes worn or rounded use a 
light hammer and swell it out, finishing it parallel with 
the bottom of the bar, with a fine pillar file, and just far 
enough over so that one matrix will clear the point as it 
is being lifted. This can be tested by hand when the box 
is off the machine. If too long after swelling it out, 
dress off with a small pillar file until a matrix will just 
clear in the slot of matrix. It will be noticed that all 
matrices, whether thin spaces or capital W, have a uni¬ 
versal thickness at the place where they pass the dis¬ 
tributor bar point. Occasionally the spring, e, in the 
cam lever will lose its tension and need renewal. This 
will occur only on old-style linotypes, however. If any¬ 
thing interferes with the free raising of a matrix, this 
spring will form a cushioned obstruction to the motion 
of the distributor box matrix lift lever cam and prevent 
injury to the matrix or box parts. If your font distin- 
guisher should happen to allow a turned thick matrix 
to pass into the box, this spring will prevent damage. 
The thick matrix cannot be lifted onto the distributor 
box rails because the bar point holds it down, the slot 
facing backwards. 

Distributor Clutch Plate —The channel entrance 
tripping bar should rest on the clutch plate about 1/32 of 
an inch. Occasionally a matrix in dropping will get 
caught between the screw thread and the channel en¬ 
trance partition. The screw thread urges the matrix 
forward, pushing the partition ahead. The partition acts 
on the tripping bar and the clutch lever being released 




230 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


allows the clutch lever screw to fly into the pulley flange 
and stops the distributor. 

Each linotype and intertype is equipped with a distrib¬ 
utor screw guard, a curved steel plate, interposed between 
the upper and lower distributor screws or worms. The 
purpose of this guard is to tilt the upper part of the 
matrix as it drops out and away from the lower screw 
and prevents the matrix binding between the screw 
thread and the channel entrance partition. 

Keyboard Upper Guide—Rods to lock in verges, 
centering on them as much as possible. On right-hand 
side of keyrods there is a screw which supports the 
upper keyrod guide. This screw is positioned sidewise in 
a bushing. Adjust the bushing until the keyrods are cen¬ 
tered over the verges as much as possible. This adjust¬ 
ment is to be found only on Models 3, 4 and 5 machines. 
On intertypes the upper keyrod guide has a slight amount 
of side play. The guide can be positioned sideways until 
the keyrods when ascending strike the verges squarely 
and without slipping off the side. 

Ejector Blade—When the ejector blade has made its 
farthest stroke to front of machine when ejecting slug, 
the end of the blade should be slightly ahead of the chase 
channel or stick. To compel the stroke adjust the ejector 
lever pawl by turning the screw down to shorten the 
stroke of the blade or lower the back adjusting Screw in 
the pawl to lengthen the stroke. The blade should be 
so adjusted that it will push the slug just far enough 
out so it won’t bind on the stick when the slug lever 
pushes it into the stick. If the pawl is correctly adjusted 
and the slug comes out too far, see that the ejector 
buffer slide spring is not broken. This spring takes up 
the shock of the forward stroke and cushions the blow 
of the lever. The ejector slide buffer has a brass strip 
on earlier linotypes, which bears against the ejector blade 
and prevents the ejector lever running ahead. This strip 
in time will wear off where it bears against the blade. 
When this occurs, renew the brass strip. 

Pump Stop—On linotypes have 1 /32 of an inch be¬ 
tween the stop lever and the block on the pump or 
plunger lever. The adjustment is made by screw in the 
pump stop operating lever, and bears against the right- 
hand vise jaw. Push the jaw toward keyboard when 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


231 


testing for this adjustment. This lever prevents the pot 
pump lever from casting a slug when the machine is 
running empty or a pi line of matrices is sent in. Its real 
purpose, however, is to prevent a cast when a short line 
of matrices and spacebands is sent in. The spacebands 
come up full distance, but do not push the right-hand 
vise jaw over enough to clear the stop from under the 
block of the lever. 

The intertype pump stop performs the same function, 
but operates with a different device. Instead of oper¬ 
ating from the right-hand vise jaw, it is controlled and 
actuated by the stroke of the first justification lever. 
The height to which the first justification lever rises 
determines whether or not the machine will cast a slug. 
In other words, if the spacebands do not obstruct the 
upward stroke of the lever and justify the spacebands 
and matrices tightly a line will not be cast. The action 
of the pump stop takes place normally within the last 
3/16" stroke of the justification lever. The adjustment 
is made by loosening the lock nut on the pump stop 
operating rod, which is above the adjusting nut. Adjust 
the nut until the operating rod will throw the pump stop 
lever under the plunger lever block before the cast takes 
place. Run the machine around idle and watch its action. 
Pull plunger pin, have left-hand vise jaw open, and run 
machine ahead empty—that is, without matrices or space- 
bands—until the first justification lever reaches its ex¬ 
treme upstroke. When machine is in this position the 
pump stop lever should be about 1/32" away from the 
stop pin in its bracket and fully under the block on the 
plunger lever. Run the machine around each time after 
adjusting the nut in the rod, then tighten check nut 
against adjusting nut. A pot pump lever roll having a 
flat spot worn on its outside surface might interfere with 
the stroke of the pump stop lever for the reason that 
the plunger lever might be so low, due to the flat spot on 
the roll, as to block the pump stop lever. Loose pump 
stop bracket screws might also interfere with the proper 
operation of the pump stop lever. 

Second Elevator—When the second elevator bar 
plate is resting on the transfer channels, the roller in 
the lever should be free to revolve without touching the 
depression in the cam. Adjust by means of the connect- 



232 


Linotypes and Inter types 


ing bolt in the second elevator lever. If the roller rests 
on the cam while matrices are being transferred, it will 
hold the bar plate off the transfer channels and damage 
matrix teeth. Another purpose served by this spring is 
to bring the second elevator bar plate to its seat at the 
distributor box with a cushion stroke and hold the bar 
in alignment with the distributor box bar, again pre¬ 
serving matrix teeth. When making this adjustment on an 
intertype turn the adjusting screw and nut so that bolt 
will hold the roll off the cam when the second elevator 
is resting on the transfer channel, and the bolt will be 
loose when the lever is at normal position at the distrib¬ 
utor. Also watch to see that the counterbalance weight 
does not touch either the first elevator cam hub or the 
auxiliary lever when at either its up or down stroke. 

Assembler Matrix Belt —To be just tight enough to 
run steadily and throw matrices into the assembler with¬ 
out hesitancy. The idler pulley stud revolves on a mov¬ 
able stud, and this stud can be moved back in its slot 
to accomplish this. 

Square Pinion—When the cams are in casting posi¬ 
tion the headless screw in the square block on linotypes 
should be on top. This pinion turns the mold disk and 
is actuated by the segments in the mold turning cam. 
The short segment revolves the mold disk one-quarter 
turn, at which place the mold disk will be in casting po¬ 
sition ; the longer of the two segments turns the mold 
disk three-quarters of a turn, bringing the mold disk to 
ejecting position. 

Gas Governors —There are several different types of 
gas governors on the market and at least two kinds that 
have been applied by manufacturers to their machines. 
The principle on all of them is the same, but they arrive 
at the same result in different ways. The original lino¬ 
type governor is the simplest of all and consists of a 
tube with a V-shaped cut in the end of the tube. This 
end is immersed in mercury, the gas being increased or 
diminished by raising or lowering the mercury by means 
of a screw which is likewise immersed in the mercury. 

The Lee gas governor is largely in use and depends 
for action upon the expansion and contraction of a large 
quantity of mercury which is very sensitive to slightest 
changes of temperature. The quantity of gas to the 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


233 


burner is controlled by a long thumb screw which crowds 
into the mercury causing the mercury to expand against 
a rubber diaphragm, which is opposite the end of a tube 
where the gas enters. The rubber diaphragms harden 
after a time and need renewal, in some instances every 
three months, to keep them sensitive. 

The linotype gas thermostat is a sensitive instrument 
and responds readily to changes of temperature, such as 
putting a pig of metal into the pot. There are two brass 
rods which are encased by a cast iron jacket. The cast 
iron jacket, being immersed directly in the metal of the 
melting pot, does not readily respond to slight tempera¬ 
ture changes. The two alloy rods, however, are ex¬ 
tremely sensitive and shorten or lengthen themselves 
according to the temperature of the metal, thus regu¬ 
lating the amount of gas that may flow to the burners. 

The action of the thermostat is as follows: The rod 
expands, pushing up against the thermostat lever, the 
other end of which pushes down the plunger and dimin¬ 
ishes the flow of gas to the burner. There is an adjust¬ 
ing screw at the end of the lever, which has contact with 
the valve plunger. After this screw is set to the desired 
flow of gas the rod will automatically expand and con¬ 
tract, regulating the flow of gas to the burners as needed. 
A compression spring takes up all lost motion in the 
parts and compels the plunger to follow the shrinkage 
of the rod where more gas is to be let in to the burners. 

Later thermostats have a very stiff compression 
spring between the operating lever and the valve cap. 
The adjusting screw passes through this spring. It is 
intended as an overthrow device in case the gas valve 
shuts off and the rods keep on expanding. In other 
words, the spring prevents the expansion rods warping 
or bending. This spring is intended to be stronger than 
the spring under the valve cap, and the adjusting nuts 
should never be screwed down so far as to completely 
close the coils of the overthrow spring, which would de¬ 
feat its purpose. 

There is also mounted in the end of each rod a small 
adjusting screw and check nut to maintain a certain 
length in the expansion rod. It seems that after a while 
the rod will shorten itself from use. When the regular 
adjusting screw cannot be used any more for regulating 
the flow of gas, the rod can be taken out, the screw 




234 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


turned up and set to a place where it will allow the lever 
to be reassembled in the governor so that the thermostat 
lever hinge pin will pass through the hinge pin holes in 
the lever while bearing down on the plunger end of the 
lever. Occasionally remove the thermostat, straighten 
the expansion rods is they are curved or warped, or the 
gas flame does not rise and fall as the levers are moved 
up and down by hand. Clean the dirt from the rod holes, 
as well as the plungers and valves. Graphite the plung¬ 
ers and expansion rods and return to place. This opera¬ 
tion will probably have to be done at least every six 
months. 

The intertype governor operates on the expansion and 
contraction principle, but instead of the rod expanding 
and contracting against the valve, the casing in which 
the rod rests operates the rod. This casing is made of 
aluminum and is extremely sensitive to slightest tempera¬ 
ture changes. 

The intertype governor uses one rod immersed in the 
metal instead of two, as in the linotype, the mouthpiece 
flame being raised or lowered with a cock in the pipe 
line and remains stationary after setting. 

Occasionally take the governor apart and clean the 
collected dust or black deposit from the governor case. 
No attempt should be made to unscrew the expansion 
tube from the case while it is hot. 

This is explained by the fact that when the governor 
was originally assembled the parts were cold. When hot 
the aluminum tube is expanded and the threads on the 
tube where it screws into the case are expanded and 
will surely tear if forced around while hot. If it is 
absolutely necessary to unscrew the tube, do it while the 
parts are cold. 

If the governor valve does not fit evenly against the 
seat in the case, it can be ground to fit with a little 
No. 120 emery or carborundum powder and oil. Take 
short strokes and lap evenly. 

While the governor is apart examine the governor 
valve rod to see if it has not become bellied from heat. 
If so, straighten it. 

The flow of gas to burners is regulated by the opera¬ 
tion of the valve rod, which will open or close the valve, 
getting its action from the expansion or contraction of 
the aluminum casing or tube which is immersed in the 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


235 


metal. There is a regulating screw at the top of the 
governor, which can be turned either way to effect the 
desired heat. The screw is held stationary by a small 
detent which bears against the thumb piece of the regu¬ 
lating screw. 

Pot Lever Eyebolt— The adjustment of the pot 
lever eyebolt nuts seem to be a difficult thing for the 
average beginner to set correctly. The simplest way to 
explain the adjustment is to say that the back nut regu¬ 
lates the amount of compression with which the pot shall 
lock against the mold. The front nut regulates the ten¬ 
sion or stiffness with which the compression shall do its 
work. In adjusting these nuts it must be borne in mind 
that if the back nut is screwed out too far it will inter¬ 
fere with the backing off of the pot from the mold dur¬ 
ing second justification, which can result in front squirts 
because the spacebands cannot be freely justified; dam¬ 
age to matrices and spacebands will also take place. To 
adjust these nuts correctly, loosen the front nut, then 
watch the amount of compression between the pot lever 
and the back nut as the pot locks up while the machine 
is making a revolution. As the pot lever roller passes 
over the shoes on the pot cam the compression should 
show a space of z /% of an inch between the pot lever 
and the back nut. Then screw up on the front nut until 
the tension of the spring is somewhat stiff. After mak¬ 
ing the adjustment of these two nuts, and while the ma¬ 
chine is revolving, watch the pot to see that it backs 
away from the mold between first and second justifica¬ 
tion of the spacebands, or, in other words, when the pot 
lever roller is passing over the pot cam where the shoes 
of the cam bear against the roller. The solidity of the 
pot locking against the mold can be regulated easily 
after watching the machine work. If the lockup is too 
tight, it will interfere as mentioned above with the free 
justification of the spacebands and matrices—that is, 
the pot must back away from the mold disk during sec¬ 
ond justification of the spacebands. If too loose, there 
will be back squirts, or else the letters cast on the slug 
will be of varying height. After a pot compression 
spring has been in use for a long time it may lose its 
resiliency. In this case a new spring will be needed. 
The correct adjustment of the pot lever eyebolt nuts will 
overcome to some extent an untrue lockup between the 



236 Linotypes and Intertypes 

pot mouthpiece and the mold, but should not be made 
excessively tight to overcome this condition. 

Base Trimming Knife—To trim the slug .918" or 
type-high. Adjust with two square head screws at bot¬ 
tom of knife. Elsewhere in this book will be found a 
method of easily setting the base trimming knife. 

Side Trimming Knives—These knives trim the sides 
of the slug as it is pushed between them by the ejector 
blade. The sides should be parallel. The left-hand knife 
trims the smooth or constant side of the slug, that is, it 
should only remove any whiskers or fins and not gouge 
into the slug. The right-hand knife trims the ribs to 
body size. The left-hand knife is adjusted by loosening 
the binding screws which extend out from the front of 
the vise, then adjust the upper and lower screws in the 
knife block against which the knife rests. The right- 
hand knife is adjusted by first loosening the two screws 
which pass through the knife itself, and then turning the 
screws against which the knife bears in the knife block. 

Stay Bolt or Tie—This bolt is to take up the strain 
which occurs when the various stresses take place dur¬ 
ing operation of the casting part of the machine. It 
extends from and connects the right-hand cam shaft cap 
to the machine column. When adjusting the stay bolt 
screw it in with the hand and stop turning when the 
head of the bolt touches the cam shaft cap. Then tighten 
the set screw, which will keep it from turning. 

Assembler Slide Brake—The assembler slide should 
return to position just before the line delivery carriage 
releases. Adjust the screw in operating lever until there 
is a little play between the screw and operating lever. If 
the screw should bear against operating lever it will 
hold the brake shoes aawy from the assembler slide and 
permit it to shake with the action of the star wheel. 
While a line is being assembled the brake permits the 
slide to move forward when a matrix enters the assem¬ 
bling elevator and permits the slide to move steadily for¬ 
ward as the matrices are assembled. 

When a line is sent in, the projection on the assem¬ 
bling elevator strikes the operating lever, the operating 
lever on the linotype bears down on the brake tip, which 
releases the brake itself a sufficient distance from the 
assembler slide to allow the spring to pull the slide back 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


2 37 


to position automatically. If the slide is greasy or 
gummy it will operate sluggishly and will not return to 
position. Keep the slide clean with gasoline and polish 
with dry graphite. The action of the intertype assem¬ 
bler slide releasing mechanism is similar, except that 
the operating lever has an adjustable screw and roller 
which bear directly on the tapered edge of the assem¬ 
bler slide brake thumb piece. This screw in the oper¬ 
ating lever can be adjusted until it functions. 

All new style assembler slides have adjustable means 
for setting the assembler to a certain width. The old- 
style assembler slide was set to pica em measure with 
a friction block on the slide, which had a habit of slip¬ 
ping in case of an overset line. On the linotype the 
assembler slide is adjusted by means of the set screw in 
the slide clamp. The newer style intertvpe slide is ad¬ 
justed by moving the finger at the left end of the slide. 

To correctly set an assembler slide on the linotype set 
a line of matrices with one spaceband in the line and 
put in enough matrices to cause the star wheel to rattle 
against the line, or until almost stopped. Send in the 
line and when justification takes place the spaceband 
should ascend high enough so that the top of the space- 
band will be about even with the top of the first eleva¬ 
tor jaws. This is equivalent to setting the assembler 
measure a thin space less than the measure being com¬ 
posed, and will greatly assist in preventing bent space- 
band and matrices damaged by the mold lock-up. The 
usual measure used for setting assemblers is 12 or 13 
ems. The setting screw in the assembler slide clamp can 
be moved out or in until the proper measure is secured on 
linotypes. Reset weekly, to compensate for the wear of 
the star wheel. Also reset the assembler whenever a star 
wheel is replaced. 

The advantage of setting assemblers regularly are 
more readily apparent where there is more than one 
machine in the plant. This enables the operator to know 
just what assembler measures he can depend on when 
operating from one machine to another. 

To adjust the old-style intertype assembler measure 
there is a small screw and check nut at the top of the 
assembler slide adjusting block. 

The new style intertype assembler slide is adjusted for 
constant em measure by moving the finger at the left 




238 


Linotypes and Inter types 


end of the assembler slide sideways. Loosen the two 
screws which hold the finger to the slide; loosen the 
small headless set screw which holds the setting screw in 
place; turn in or out, as the case may be, on the 8-32 
setting screw in the block. Tighten the setting screw set 
screw and the two screws which hold the finger rigidly 
against the slide. The method of obtaining the constant 
measure—i. e., a thin space less than the em measure 
being cast, is the same as for the linotype, described 
above. 

Spaceband Box Center Bar—This bar prevents 
more than one band from being raised at a time on the 
linotype and depresses any bands that might have the 
wedges projecting above the sleeves. It is adjustable 
endwise when using thin, thick or extra thick spacebands, 
so that not more than one spaceband at a time can pass 
the bar. 

On late intertypes the function of the spaceband box 
center bar is merely to depress any bands that may be 
extending above the sleeves, as explained above. 

Distributor Channel Entrance—On late machines 
the distributor bar and beam are adjutsable endwise, that 
is, the whole mechanism as a unit can be moved to cause 
matrices dropping from the distributor bar to clear the 
channel entrance partitions without interfering with 
them. 

Magazines are now assembled on the supporting mech¬ 
anism in a fixed position sidewise. The distributor bar 
is doweled to the beam and is not adjustable. The chan¬ 
nel entrance can be moved, but it is not advisable to try 
to adjust it, as the ends of the partitions are so made 
that they align with the matrix channels in the magazine 
mouth. Occasionally a distributor will be found to be so 
constructed that matrices will strike the tops of the 
channel entrance partitions. To make this test select 
any lower case channel of matrices, such as the lower 
case “f”, and run them on the distributor bar. Slowly 
turn the distributor by hand and adjust the distributor 
beam so that as each matrix drops it will just clear the 
channel entrance partition. When the distributor is run¬ 
ning normally by power the momentum caused by the 
speed of the distributor and the weight of the matrix 
will throw it a little farther over to the middle of the 
channel. This adjusting screw will be found at the top 





Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


239 


of the beam, right-hand side on linotypes, and above the 
distributor bracket, left-hand side, on intertypes. On 
the intertype, in addition to the screw adjustment found 
in the beam, there are a number of thin steel washers 
mounted on the left-hand side of the channel entrance 
frame. These washers can be used to shift the channel 
entrance partition plate to match the partitions. After 
this has been accomplished the screw in the beam may 
be used to adjust the distributor bar and beam as a whole 
until matrices clear the tops of the channel entrance par¬ 
titions, as explained above. It is easy to remember that 
the magazines are fixed as to position, the channel en¬ 
trance gate is adjusted by means of the washers to align 
the channel entrance partitions with the magazine mouth 
channels, and lastly adjust the bar and beam so that 
matrices when dropping will just clear the channel en¬ 
trance partitions. 

Distributor Beam and Bar Adjusting Screws— 

These screws will be found on top of the beam at either 
end and are for the purpose of raising or lowering the 
assembled beam so that the distributor bar will be level. 
Before making this adjustment place a level on the vise 
cap and level the machine, both cross- and front-and- 
back. Then place the level on the distributor bar brass 
guard strip (the strip embedded in the back side of the 
distributor bar), or on the distributor back screw shaft 
and raise or lower the beam until the level registers the 
same as on the vise cap. 

As a matrix travels across the distributor, it is advan¬ 
tageous to have it supported by the distributor screws 
against the three ears where it has contact with the 
screws. In fact, the distributor will operate much more 
satisfactorily if the right-hand, or clutch end, of the dis¬ 
tributor is slightly tilted above level. The matrix, in 
this case, will incline against all three distributor screws. 
Tilting the distributor up at the clutch end is a wonder¬ 
ful help for steady distribution on old machines. The 
above, however, will not distribute matrices that have 
had their teeth damaged or sprung apart due to faulty 
transfer adjustments. 

Block up the machine toes or legs on the distributor 
clutch or keyboard side of the machine. Slugs or thin 
pieces of wood will answer the purpose. Use the level 
on the vise cap and put enough under the machine toes so 



240 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


the bubble in the level will come past the true level mark 
a quarter to one-half inch. 

Intertype Ejector Lever Adjustment—There is a 
a screw and check nut in the intertype ejector lever about 
half way down which is used to prevent too much play 
or shake in the ejector lever when standing at normal. 
Adjust this stop screw until there is about 1/16 of an 
inch play in the lever when moved by hand as the ma¬ 
chine stands at normal. To get at the screw, back the 
machine until the second elevator lever descends and 
push ejector lever forward. This adjustment is to in¬ 
sure the ready entrance of the ejector locating plunger 
in the slot in the ejector slide when the locating lever 
is depressed as a change is made in the measure of ejector 
blade. If the plunger does not enter the recess in the 
slide the blade cannot be changed from one measure to 
another. 



XXVI 


DAILY WORK SCHEDULE 

I T IS important that certain things be done every 
day on the line-casting machine to keep it in the 
best condition. The right idea is to try and prevent 
anything in the way of a breakdown or other annoying 
circumstance happening during working hours when the 
product of the machine is needed. 

There are various little operations required to keep a 
machine running right and if some system is not used 
in performing them the doing of them is apt to be neg¬ 
lected or it might require too much time if not executed 
in an orderly way. 

The following schedule is offered, not as a perfect 
specimen of daily routine, but rather as a guide for the 
individual to work from, or creating a system suitable to 
the needs of his plant. It would be an impossibility to 
gather up a stock system chart suitable for any plant, 
on account of the varying conditions and number of ma¬ 
chines in every plant. 

Every Eight Hours: 

Polish spacebands. 

Clean plunger, well and holes in well. 

Brush metal off machine. 

Wipe off mouthpiece and back of mold disk, scrape 
metal from molds (if any), both front and back, lubri¬ 
cate mold disk slide support screw and locking stud 
bushings. 

Polish front of mold, first elevator jaws and vise jaws 
with dry cloth and graphite. 

Straighten and return all matrices which have accumu¬ 
lated on keyboard or distributor tray. 

Once a Week: 

Oil machine all over with exception of motor and dis¬ 
tributor. 

Oil mold slide by applying oil with fingers while slide 
is pulled out. It is not necessary to fill the cup above 
the mold slide on account of liability of fouling ejector 
[ 241 ] 


242 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


blades with too much oil, which eventually will be de¬ 
posited on matrices. Also oil the mold disk support¬ 
ing screw. 

Renew both front and back mold wipers. 

Clean and lubricate lower distributor boxes if Model 
2, 4, 9, 16, 17 and 24. Clean the rails in these boxes 
oftener if necessary. 

Clean distributor screws with strips of cloth saturated 
in benzine to remove surplus oil if the oil can has been 
used to freely on distributor bearings. 

Clean second elevator head and seating places on trans¬ 
fer channel with cloth dampened in gasoline or ammonia, 
also face of line delivery carriage short finger and long 
finger, transfer slide finger and the distributor shifter 
buffer face. A deposit of black gum accumulates on 
these places and should be cleaned off. 

Watch distributor screws for traveling oil and keep 
the screws clean. 

Wipe off main cam surfaces with coal oil and cloth. 

Graphite assembling elevator, line delivery carriage, 
transfer and distributor shifter slides with dry graphite. 

Wipe off motor and bracket, sand commutator and see 
that the brushes do not stick in their holders. 

If electric pot, give some attention to dynamic ther¬ 
mometer or thermostat contacts and clean them with fine 
emery cloth. 

Clean clutch pulley and clutch and keep free from oil. 

Every Two Weeks: 

Oil motor bearings. 

Oil distributor sparingly. 

Clean machine base. 

Oil transfer lever links, line delivery carriage links 
and spaceband lever pawl bearings sparingly. 

Oil spaceband lever turnbuckles. 

Oil magazine shifting mechanism, including bearings 
where no oil holes are drilled. 

Oil knife blocks, and if necessary use coal oil to cut 
the gum, oiling afterwards. 



XXVII 


“KINKS” 

FILING GLASS 

T HE EARLIER machines were equipped with as¬ 
sembler covers made of glass. Occasionally these 
glasses become chipped on the edge where they 
will burr all matrices having contact with them. The 
chipped places can be smoothed off with a file, using 
turpentine or water on the file freely. Grinding glass on 
the ordinary emery wheel does the work, but it also chips 
out at the edges. 

SLUG PULLING HARD FROM BORDER SLIDE 
Border slides sometimes have little taper on them 
from the matrix to the edge of the matrix slide. This 
causes the slug to pull away from the slide after the 
cast rather hard, the block and back jaw taking the 
strain. A loud snap takes place caused by the final 
separation of the slide and the slug. Frequently the slug 
will slightly pull out of the mold. This will cause the 
back knife to trim above type high (.918")* Use a small 
pillar file with an absolutely safe edge so as to avoid 
scratching the matrix pattern and bevel or taper the 
edges of the matrix slide, from the pattern to the out¬ 
side edge. This will cause the slug to part with the 
slide instantly and softly. There will be a slightly 
heavier trim on the side knives, but this will not be no¬ 
ticeable. Be careful to only remove a little from the 
slide at a time, and try it between the beveling opera¬ 
tions. 

WASHING KEYBUTTONS 
To wash keybuttons clean, use common household am¬ 
monia and wipe the buttons dry with clean cloth. 

REPAIRING CAM STOP STRIP 
It is sometimes entirely practical to repair a broken 
keyboard cam stop strip, a tooth of which has broken off. 
In Fig. 56, shown at a, the section has been placed lower 
than it would be normally. This is to allow for the length 
[ 243 ] 


244 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


of the tooth when bent in curved fashion, shown at b, so 
that it will be in line and of the same length as the 
regular teeth. 




REFACING CAM ROLLS 
The steel cam rollers will sometimes become flat-sided, 
due to dry bearings, oil on the cams or because the bear¬ 
ings have become worn to an elliptical shape. In the 
absence of an external or peripheral grinder, the roller 
can be refaced, if not too badly worn, by passing a piece 
of drill rod through the roller of nearly the same,diam¬ 
eter as the hole in the roller. Hold the roller against 
an emery wheel at an angle which will not permit the 
roller to revolve as fast as the grinding wheel. This 
will set up friction and grind the roller fairly true again. 
The steeper the angle the better the grinding. The 
speed of the roller can be retarded while grinding by 
slightly pressing a finger against the roller. 


CLEANING KEYBOARD CAMS IN SOLUTION 
Keyboard cams and yokes that are cleaned regularly 
do not become dingy and dark in color. Also the pivot 
will not collect a false ring of gum around the pivot pin 
if clock oil only is used for lubrication. There are 
occasional instances where benzine and a fibre brush will 
not restore cams to the condition where they will work 
satisfactorily. In this case it will be necessary to use 
something other than benzine to make them bright again 
and remove the foreign substance from around the pivot. 
The following formula will accomplish the result: 

Cyanide of sodium, 1 lb. 

Water, 1 gal. 

When using cyanide of sodium handle it with greatest 
care, as it is one of the deadliest of poisons, and avoid 
letting it come in contact with the skin. 
















Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


245 


String the cams by their bearing holes in the ends of 
yokes on a wire. Immerse them in the solution and 
after they have become bright lift them out and plunge 
them in a pail of boiling water. Churn the cams up and 
down. Lay them out to dry. 

Another solution, which is very successful, can be 
made as follows: 

Chromic acid, 1 lb. 

Salt, (common), 1 oz. 

Powdered alum, Yz oz. 

Use three tablespoons to one quart water. It will not 
be necessary for the brass to remain in the solution more 
than from three to five minutes. As soon as they are 
bright remove the cams and rinse in clear water. It 
might be stated that the above solution wil be more 
active if the water in which it is used is warm. 

REPAIRING SPACEBAND BUFFER FINGER 


In Fig. 57, at a, is shown a recess cut out, long 
and about 3/16" deep to receive an inset piece to bring 



the top edge of the finger straight again after the space- 
bands have worn a deep impression. The edges of the 
recess, a, can be slightly beveled so that when the piece 
is set in and made of thicker material than the finger, 
the corners can be hammered over and the piece then 
smoothed to the original thickness of the finger. Fingers 
repaired in this way are very satisfactory if the work 
is nicely done. 

MINIMIZING HAIRLINES IN TYPE 
If it should be necessary to get rid of burrs (hair lines 
between the letters) instead of buying a new font of 
matrices, common yellow soap applied to the exact cast¬ 
ing spot on the sleeve of each spaceband once a day for 
a time, will build up artificial walls. A preparation 
















246 


Linotypes and Inter types 


named “Notabur” is also sold in small boxes by the 
linotype company. Also do not neglect to polish the 
spacebands twice a day for a time with graphite. After 
the hair lines have commenced to disappear the polishing 
of the spacebands may be done once a day for every 
eight-hour shift the machine is operated. Hair lines 
are the result of neglect. It is easy to neglect spaceband 
polishing, but not so easy to try to eliminate hair lines 
when once they have made their appearance. When the 
side walls in a font of matrices have become broken 
down, the spacebands will collect metal at the casting 
point on the sleeve in a very short time after being used. 
Usually it is better to buy a new font of matrices, but 
if this proves inexpedient, the above treatment will help. 
Perserverance will eventually cause the hair lines to dis¬ 
appear if the matrices are not too badly injured. 

TO WEAKEN EXTENSION SPRINGS 
To weaken a large extension spring insert a screw 
driver between the coils and twist them open. Do this 
alternately on their side of the spring, until the right 
tension has been secured. 

TO STRENGTHEN COMPRESSION SPRINGS 
To strengthen compression springs, such as the star 
wheel or the driving clutch springs, roll the spring on 
the corner of an iron block with the corner of the block 
between the open coils of the spring, and while rolling 
tap the spring with a hammer until the desired length is 
obtained. 

RENEWING MOLD LINER CORNERS 
Mold liners become rounded on the corner in the course 
of time. This is caused by the occasional pressing of the 
liner against the vise jaw, or on account of carelessness 
when changing liners so that the end protrudes out from 
the mold. The slug will cast with a fin or burr on the 
liner from the mold and drilling a No. 60 twist drill hole 
near the corner (about 5/64" from the corner either 
way), then swell out the corner with hammer and center 
punch. After swelling the corner, dress down square 
with a pillar file. 



XXVIII 


SUPPLIES, TABLES AND TOOLS 

I T IS good insurance to have a stock of extra ma¬ 
chine parts on hand for inevitable accident or wear 
on certain parts which will need periodical renewal. 
The suggested list will not cover the needs of the 
average plant but will be a help to the one maintaining 
the machines. 

A few keyboard cams, extra pair of rubber rolls, key¬ 
board cam stop strips, assembler star wheels, if linotype 
extra assembler chute rail springs, assembling elevator 
fibre buffers, if linotype, a left-hand vise jaw adjusting 
wedge; first elevator slide link upper and lower eye- 
bolt, extra pair of side trimming knives, extra back 
knife, mouthpiece and gib, ejector pawl, distributor box 
rails (4), distributor box lift lever stud, stud roll and 
friction spring, an assortment of screws and springs. 
Pot lever cam roll pin, nine anti-friction rolls and wash¬ 
ers are good things to keep on hand. A gas burner 
top plate and screws for use in case the one in use 
cracks when the gas burner is being removed for clean¬ 
ing. If electric pots are in use thermostat or dynamic 
thermometer parts and even pot and throat elements 
may be needed in an emergency. 

No one can compile a stated list of the extra parts 
needed in the average plant—it will be for you to decide 
just what should be selected for your plant. 

TOOLS 

There are a certain number of essential tools which 
should be in the maintenance kit of every line-casting 
machine plant, whether it be one or more machines. 
The selection is largely up to the one doing the repair 
work and variations will occur according to individual 
taste or the necessity arising for any particular tool. 

If doubt arises in the mind of the beginner as to what 
should be purchased, he can procure one of the special 
supplies catalogues published by both companies making 
linotypes and intertypes. It might be mentioned here 
that two essential tools are a one-inch micrometer and 
[ 247 ] 




248 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


a matrix ear file. The file made by William Reid, Chi¬ 
cago, is particularly adapted to dressing the burrs from 
the four matrix lugs at one operation, and in addition 
all ears will be filed alike. 


NOTCHES FOR TYPE SIZE 



5, 11 and 34 
POINT 


5^, 9, 18, and 36 
POINT 


6, 12, and 24 
POINT 






7, 14, 28, and 42 
POINT 


8, 16 and 32 
POINT 


Fig. 58. 



10, 13, 20, and 30 
POINT 


AD FIGURE LAYOUT 

The standard ad figure layout universally used now is 
as follows: 

Figure 1 in fl channel 
Figure 2 in ffi channel 
Figure 3 in ffl channel 
Figure 4 in ? channel 
Figure 5 in ( channel 
Figure 6 in * channel 
Figure 7 in X channel 
Figure 8 in Z channel 
Figure 9 in @ channel 
Figure 0 in lb channel 
Period in ( channel 
Comma in ) channel 
Dollar in ! channel 
Cent in & channel 





Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


249 


FRACTION LAYOUT 
The standard fraction layout is as follows: 
Yz in * channel 
Ya in ffl channel 
34 in ft) channel 
Yz in ffi channel 
34 in ? channel 
34 in Z channel 
34 in & channel 


DRILL SIZES FOR TAPS 
Size Tap Body 

4x48 41 34 

6x32 33 27 

6x48 31 26 

8x32 29 18 

10x24 23 11 

10x28 19 9 

10x32 20 9 

54x24 6 Ya 

5/16x18 Ya 5/16 

34x16 5/16 H 


MATRICES 

Channels in which they run, their teeth and lug thick¬ 
ness : 

Character Channel Tooth No. Lugs 

1st e channel. 0 2 .040 

e 1 12 .040 

t "" 2 3 .040 

a 3 13 .050 

o 4 23 .040 

i 5 123 .030 

n 6 4 .050 

s "" .... 7 14 .040 

h . . 8 24 .050 

r . 9 124 .040 

d . ... 10 34 .050 

j . 11 134 .030 

u . 12 234 .060 

c . 13 1234 .050 

m . 14 5 .080 




















250 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


Character 

f . 

W . 

y. 

p. 

V . 

b . 

s . 

k . 

q. 

j . 

X . 

z . 

fi . 

fl . 

ff . 

ffi . 

ffl . 

em quad .... 

comma . 

period . 

colon . 

semicolon .... 
interrogation 
en quad . 

( . 

space rule .. 

quote . 

exclamation 

hyphen . 

thin space .... 

) . 

en leader .... 
apostrophe .. 
* 

1 (figure) .. 

2 . 

3 . 

4 . 

5 .. 

6 .. 

7 . 

8 . 

9 . 


Tooth No. 

Luge 

15 

.040 

25 

.080 

125 

.050 

35 

.050 

135 

.050 

235 

.05C 

1235 

.050 

45 

.060 

145 

.050 

245 

.030 

1245 

.060 

345 

.040 

1345 

.050 

2345 

.050 

12345 

.060 

6 

.080 

16 

.080 

26 

.080 

126 

.030 

36 

.030 

136 

.040 

236 

.040 

1236 

.050 

46 

.046 

146 

.030 

246 

.030 

1246 

.030 

346 

.040 

1346 

.030 

2346 

.030 

12346 

.030 

56 

.046 

156 

.030 

256 

.046 

1256 

.046 

356 

.046 

1356 

.046 

2356 

.046 

12356 

.046 

456 

.046 

1456 

.046 

2456 

.046 

12456 

.046 


Channel 

. 15 

. 16 

. 17 

. 18 

. 19 

. 20 

. 21 

. 22 

. 23 

. 24 

. 25 

. 26 

. 27 

. 28 

. 29 

. 30 

. 31 

. 32 

. 33 

. 34 

. 35 

. 36 

. 37 

. 38 

. 39 

. 40 

. 41 

. 42 

. 43 

. 44 

. 45 

. 46 

. 47 

. 48 

. 49 

. 50 

. 51 

. 52 

. 53 

. 54 

. 55 

. 56 

. 57 














































Their Maintenance and 

M echanistn 

251 

Character 

Channel 

Tooth No. 

Lugs 

0 (cipher). 

. 58 

3456 

.046 

$ . 

. 59 

13456 

.046 

em leader . 

. 60 

23456 

.080 

E . 

. 61 

123456 

.080 

T . 

. 62 

7 

.070 

A . 

. 63 

17 

.080 

0 (cap) . 

. 64 

27 

.070 

I . 

. 65 

127 

.050 

N . 

. 66 

37 

.080 

S . 

. 67 

137 

.060 

H . 

. 68 

237 

.090 

R . 

. 69 

1237 

.080 

D . 

. 70 

47 

.080 

L . 

. 71 

147 

.070 

U . 

. 72 

247 

.080 

C . 

. 73 

1247 

.060 

M . 

. 74 

347 

.090 

F . 

. 75 

1347 

.070 

W . 

. 76 

2347 

.090 

Y . 

. 77 

12347 

.080 

P . 

. 78 

57 

.070 

V . 

. 79 

157 

.080 

B . 

. 80 

257 

.070 

G . 

. 81 

1257 

.070 

K . 

. 82 

357 

.080 

Q . 

. 83 

1357 

.070 

J . 

. 84 

2357 

.050 

x . 

. 85 

12357 

.080 

z . 

. 86 

457 

.060 

ce (or @) . 

. 87 

1457 

.080 

ae (or lb) . 

. 88 

2457 

.080 

& . 

. 89 

12457 

.050 

em dash . 

. 90 

3457 

.080 

pi channel . 

. 91 

1234567 

.090 


♦HOW TO READ A MICROMETER CALIPER 

The spindle C is attached to the thimble E, on the in¬ 
side, at the point H. The part of the spindle which is 
concealed within the sleeve and thimble is threaded to fit 


•The above description of the operation of micrometer caliper 
used by courtesy of The L. S. Starrett Co., Athol, Mass., manufac¬ 
turers of tools suitable for use in caring for line-casting machines. 







































252 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


a nut in the frame A. The frame being held stationary, 
the thimble E is revolved by the thumb and finger, and 
the spindle C being attached to the thimble revolves with 
it, and moves through the nut in the frame, approaching 
or receding from the anvil B. The article to be meas¬ 
ured is placed between the anvil B and the spindle C. 
The measurement of the opening between the anvil and 
the spindle is shown by the lines and figures on the sleeve 
D and the thimble E. 

The pitch of the screw threads on the concealed part 
of the spindle is 40 to an inch. One complete revolution 
of the spindle therefore moves it longitudinally one for¬ 
tieth (or twenty-five thousandths) of an inch. The sleeve 
D is marked with 40 lines to the inch, corresponding to the 
number of threads on the spindle. When the caliper is 
closed, the beveled edge of the thimble coincides with the 



line marked 0 on the sleeve and the 0 line on the thimble 
agrees with the horizontal line on the sleeve. Open the 
caliper by revolving the thimble one full revolution, or 
until the 0 line on the thimble again coincides with the 
horizontal line on the sleeve; the distance between the 
anvil B and the spindle C is then 1/40 (or .025) of an 
inch, and the beveled edge of the thimble will coincide 
with the second vertical line on the sleeve. Each ver¬ 
tical line on the sleeve indicates a distance of 1 /40 of an 
inch. Every fourth line is made longer than the others, 
and is numbered 0, 1, 2, 3, etc. Each numbered line in¬ 
dicates a distance of four times 1 /40 of an inch, or one- 
tenth. 

The beveled edge of the thimble is marked in twenty- 









Their Maintenance and Mechanism 253 

five divisions, and every fifth line is numbered, from 0 
to 25. Rotating the thimble from one of these marks 
to the next moves the spindle longitudinally 1 /25 of twen¬ 
ty-five thousandths, or one thousandth of an inch. Rotat¬ 
ing it two divisions indicates two thousandths, etc. Twen¬ 
ty-five divisions will indicate a complete revolution, 025" 
or 1/40 of an inch. 

To read the caliper, therefore, multiply the number of 
vertical divisions visible on the sleeve by 25, and add the 
number of divisions on the bevel of the thimble, from 0 
to the line which coincides with the horizontal line on the 
sleeve. For example, as the tool is represented in the 
engraving, there are seven divisions visible on the sleeve. 
Multiply this number by 25, and add the number of divi¬ 
sions shown on the bevel of the thimble, 3. The microm¬ 
eter is open one hundred and seventy-eight thousandths 
(7X25 = 175+3 = 178). 


HOW TO READ A TEN-THOUSANDTHS 
MICROMETER CALIPER 



Fig. 60. 


Readings in ten thousandths of an inch are obtained 
by the use of a Vernier, so named from Pierre Vernier, 
who invented the device in 1631. As applied to a caliper 
this consists of ten divisions on the adjustable sleeve, 
which occupy the same space as nine divisions on the 
thimble. The difference between the width of one of the 
ten spaces on the sleeve and one of the nine spaces on the 
thimble is therefore one-tenth of a space on the thimble. 
In engraving B on the third line from 0 on thimble coin¬ 
cides with the first line on the sleeve. The next two 









































254 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


lines on thimble and sleeve do not coincide by one-tenth 
of a space on thimble; the next two, marked 5 and 2, 
are two-tenths apart, and so on. In opening the tool, by 
turning the thimble to the left, each space on the thimble 
represents an opening one-thousandth of an inch. If, 
therefore, the thimble be turned so that the lines marked 
5 and 2 coincide, the caliper will be opened two-tenths 
of one-thousandths of two-ten-thousandths. Turning the 
thimble further, until the line 10 coincides with the line 
7 on the sleeve as in engraving C, the caliper has been 
opened seven ten-thousandths, and the reading of the tool 
is .2507. 

To read a ten-thousandths caliper, first note the thou¬ 
sandths as in the ordinary caliper, then observe the line 
on the sleeve which coincides with a line on the thimble 
If it is the second line, marked 1, add one ten-thousandth; 
if the third marked 2, add two ten-thousandths, etc. 



XXIX 


LINE-CASTING MACHINES—PAST 
AND PRESENT 


LINOTYPES 

Model 1 Linotype—The original and first commer¬ 
cially successful linotype, the first machines shipped about 
1890. Single fixed magazine, the lower end of which was 
about two inches narrower than present-day magazines. 
Accepted matrices from 5- to 11-pt. setwidth and certain 
condensed 12-pt. faces. Mold changeable from 5- to 14- 
pt. body, 4 to 30 ems wide. From this model and its 
principal parts have been developed present-day machines, 
which are wonderfully flexible in comparison with it. 
To change a Model 1 magazine it was necessary to lift 
it out from the rear of the distributor bracket and re¬ 
quired the services of two persons. Model 1 magazines 
are not interchangeable with those of other linotypes. 
The channel entrance was attached to and formed a part 
of the magazine. 

Model 2 Linotype—Brought out about 1904. The 
first multiple magazine linotype which might also be called 
a mixer—that is, matrices from either magazine could be 
mixed at will in the same line and were automatically 
distributed. The magazines were mounted in a fixed 
position, one above the other, the upper one being full 
length and holding 20 matrices in each channel. The 
magazines were distinguished from model 1 in that they 
were considerably wider at the lower end (about two 
inches). The lower magazine of model 2 was shorter 
than the upper one and held a maximum of 16 matrices 
per channel. There were, however, two channels of lower 
case “e” matrices in both magazines, worked by an alter¬ 
nating device from the assembling elevator lever. There 
were two sets of matrix delivery belts. The belt for 
the lower magazine traveled at a high rate of speed on 
ball bearing pulleys and directed matrices to a goose-neck 
tube which opened or terminated above the star wheel. 
Changes for the purpose of operating from the upper or 
lower magazines were made by a small lever mounted 
[ 255 ] 


256 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


at the right of the assembler slide, the movement of which 
locked the verges in the other magazine. One set of key- 
rods operated the verges on both magazines. Verges for 
the lower magazine were mounted on the top of the 
magazine, lugs extending out from the keyrods working 
the verge levers. Upper magazine removable by being 
drawn to the rear through the distributor bracket and re¬ 
quired the services of two persons. Lower magazine re¬ 
movable after taking off the upper magazine. There 
were two distributors, matrices for the lower magazine 
having a bevel notch cut in the lower end, so that when 
traveling over the bridge mounted at the ends of the 
upper distributor box rails they dropped low enough to 
avoid the combination teeth of the upper distributor bar, 
the screws urging the matrices forward until they 
dropped into a goose-neck shaped tube when they were 
delivered to the lower distributor box by gravity. They 
then were fed into the lower distributor screws by re¬ 
ciprocating escapements working on the bevel notches 
cut into the lower ends of the matrices as mentioned 
above. Magazines would accommodate matrix faces from 
5- to 14-pt. and some of the larger condensed faces. 
Molds adjustable from 5 to 14-pt. body, 30-em measure. 

Model 3 Linotype—Issued about 1902. Single fixed 
magazine machine, the magazine of which was the same 
pattern as the upper magazine of model 2 and inter¬ 
changeable with it. Called “the pica machine” because 
it was the first machine having a magazine to accom¬ 
modate faces larger than 11 points. The first model 3 
machines, like the model 1, had the channel entrance at¬ 
tached to the magazine which was lifted off with the 
magazine rearwards through the distributor bracket 
when changes were made. Later model 3 machines had 
the channel entrance pivoted on brackets which remained 
attached to the distributor and swung down in place to 
the magazine. With the advent of the model 5 many 
were rebuilt so the magazines could be changed by one 
person from the front of the machine. Mold adjustable 
from 5- to 14-pt. body, 4 to 30-ems setwidth. 

Model 4 Linotype—This machine brought out in 
1906. Mixer type—that is, matrices can be drawn from 
either magazine and mixed at will in the same line and auto¬ 
matically distributed again. Operating changes from one 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


257 


magazine to another are made in the same manner as 
the model 2. The magazines are fixed and when one 
set of verges is locked the other set is in operative con¬ 
nection. This machine is of the quick-change type—the 
top magazine can be removed by inserting a flat rod in 
lower end of magazine to lock the matrices, two levers 
are raised and the magazine then swung forward and 
lifted off by one person. The heavy frame proper and 
the escapement verge block remain on the machine. 
When it is desired to remove the lower magazine the 
matrices are locked by the insertion of a flat rod in the 
lower end of the magazine in the same manner as the 
upper magazine, magazine entrance cover is turned to 
close the top of the magazine, and an eccentric lever let 
down to lower the magazine, which then can be pulled 
backwards between the distributor bracket describing an 
arc in its movement, when it may be lifted off The lower 
magazine of the model 4, like model 2, holds a maximum 
of 16 matrices per channel. The upper magazine is not 
disturbed while making a lower magazine change. In 1909 
the model 4 base was lowered about five inches which 
made magazine changes much easier. Assembling and 
distribution of matrices is accomplished in the same 
manner as on the model 2 linotype. Magazines accom¬ 
modate matrices from 5- to 14-pt., and some of the 
larger condensed faces. Molds adjustable from 5- to 14- 
pt. body, 30-em measure. Much used as a head-letter 
machine on newspapers, also in book and job shops on 
account of its mixing ability. Upper magazine inter¬ 
changeable with models 5, 6, 8, 14, 18 and 19 and upper 
magazines of 4 and 7. Later machines were equipped 
with water-cooled mold and universal ejector. 

Model 5 Linotype—Introduced in 1906. Single 
magazine quick change machine, the magazine of which 
can be changed by one operator from the front. Magazine 
frame and escapement block remain on the machine, 
identical to top magazine change on model 4. Maga¬ 
zines interchangeable with models 5, 6, 8, 14, 18, 19 and 
upper magazines of models 4 and 7. The base on this 
machine was lowered about five inches in 1909 so that 
magazine changes can be made easier. The keyboard 
however, is about the same height as the high base 
models. 



258 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


Model 6 Linotype—First brought out in 1908. A 
wide measure model 5. The only difference between it and 
model 5 is its mold and suitable parts to cast from 30- to 
36-em slugs, the mold being removed from the disk when 
making liner changes. If shorter slugs than 30 ems are 
wanted a 30-em mold is substituted. 

Model 7 Linotype—Introduced in 1907. Simply a 
36-em model 4, face-mixing machine, having the same 
features as the casting apparatus on model 6. 

Model 8 Linotype—First manufactured in 1911. At 
the present time vastly improved in flexibility over first 
pattern of model 8. One of the standard models made 
by the Linotype Company. Single distributor machine. 
Carries three magazines in suitable frames, the whole be¬ 
ing mounted on a post attached to the bottom of the dis¬ 
tributor bracket. Magazines are changed from one oper¬ 
ating position to another by turning a substantial crank 
at the right of the keyboard. It requires about ten revo¬ 
lutions of the crank to make a change from one maga¬ 
zine to another, and twenty turns to change from top 
to bottom magazine. There are two safety devices to 
prevent changing machines until the distributor is clear 
of matrices and no matrices are partly protruding from 
the lower part of the magazine which is in operating po¬ 
sition. On the earlier pattern it was necessary to depress 
the crank which was suitably connected to the locating 
bars, which unlocked the magazines, and at the same time 
moved a plate or guard between the upper and lower 
front distributor screws and another guard down in front 
of the magazine. The crank could then be turned to change 
magazines. The lower magazine was not intended to be 
removed except for repairs or permanent changes. In 
1922 the model 8 was improved in design and carries sev¬ 
eral changes, the principal one of which makes the bottom 
magazine as easily removable as the top one. This is 
accomplished by pivoting the frames at the top, and a 
lever, left side of the magazine stack near the distributor 
box opens all three frames at the lower end, clam-shell 
fashion. The magazine matrix locking bar at the lower 
end is a fixed part of the magazine and is depressed. The 
escapement verge block hinged to each magazine frame 
is dropped down by turning out the knurled hand screws 
at either side. Any magazine can be removed and re- 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


259 


placed without disturbing the other two. The locating 
bar lever arrangement has been separated from the maga¬ 
zine crank and positioned above the assembler driving 
belt. It unlocks the magazines, pushes the matrix safety 
guard between the upper and lower distributor screws, 
and also lowers a guard at the lower end of the maga¬ 
zine which is in operative position, so that if matrices 
have not cleared the distributor bar or project from the 
lower end of the magazine a change cannot be made. 
Other refinements are present, one of which is an align¬ 
ing arrangement so the channel entrance will come to a 
certain position sidewise in relation to the magazine in 
use. A key projects from the top end of each of the 
magazine frames, and fits in a notch cut in the channel 
entrance frame. Model 8 has universal knife block, auto¬ 
matic font distinguisher and two-pitch distributor screws. 
All of the magazines are alike and interchangeable with 
each other and with the upper magazines on 4 and 7; 
also magazines on 5, 6, 11, 14, 18 and 19. Equipped with 
water-cooled mold disk and sectional universal ejector 
blade. Three molds are mounted in the disk and another 
may be added. The machine will also handle large con¬ 
densed type matrices, especially head-letter faces. 

Model 9 Linotype—Put on the market in 1911. 
Mixer type. Carries four superimposed magazines 
mounted in a fixed position. The escapement verges are 
one piece each and form a part of magazine. Operating 
changes from one magazine to another are affected by 
moving a lever guided by a segment at the right of the 
keyboard, having notches for locating the lever accord¬ 
ing to the magazine. The assembler face plate contain¬ 
ing the auxiliary escapement rods and the assembler en¬ 
trance guides is hinged at the right of the magazine and 
can be swung open, which exposes the lower ends of the 
magazines and makes them accessible for removal. Maga¬ 
zines on model 9 are interchangeable one with another 
and the main magazines of model 24 only. A description 
of models 9 and 24 keyboard and escapement mechanisms 
will be found in chapter 1. Matrices from any or all 
magazines can be mixed in the same line and will be auto¬ 
matically distributed. There are five distributors on this 
machine, the first of which all matrices pass through to 
be sent to the proper magazine. This is called the pri¬ 
mary distributor and has a short distributor bar with 



260 Linotypes and Intertypes 

blank spaces. Below the blank spaces are mounted small 
steel bridges having combination projections according to 
the notches cut in the bottom ends of the matrices. If 
a matrix when it reaches an open space in the primary 
distributor bar fits the bridge it drops down and strad¬ 
dles the projections and falls into a corresponding 
tube or chute. If it doesn’t fit the bridge and rides 
on top it goes on to the next bridge. There are four 
bridges and four chutes. The matrices fall by gravity 
through the tubes and down into the secondary distributor 
boxes, where escapement pawls described in model 2 lower 
distributor box, feed them one at a time into the distribu¬ 
tor screws. Spiral automatics are employed for stopping 
the distributor screws in case a matrix does not drop just 
right. This machine has four molds, adjustable from 4 
to 30 ems, universal knife block, sectional universal ejec¬ 
tor blade and water-cooled mold disk. When one dis¬ 
tributor stops all distributors stop. The distributor is 
swung upwards to open and is counterbalanced with a 
spring to lighten the lift. The channel entrance frame is 
also counterbalanced and swings downward after opening 
the main distributor. 

Model 10 Linotype—Marketed in 1911. Single 
magazine machine having same capacity for matrices as 
model 1, from 5- to 11-pt. The magazine held 14 matrices 
per channel. The double lower case “e” channel device was 
applied. The magazine had a sharper angle than standard 
models. The distributor and channel entrances were low 
enough that the average person could look into the maga¬ 
zine without a step at the rear. This machine was de¬ 
signed for small printing plants. 

Model 11 Linotype—Identical with model 8 except 
its ability to cast slugs from 30 to 36 ems wide. Two 
molds recommended on this machine by the manufactur¬ 
ers. Now known as model 8 L. L. A. 

Model 12 Linotype—This is a wide measure model 
9 linotype and casts slugs from 30 to 36 ems wide. Now 
known as model 9 L. L. A. 

Model K Linotype—Two-magazine linotype. Single 
distributor. Magazines similar in width to model 1. 
Magazine are not interchangeable with any other model. 
Accepts matrices from 5- to 11-pt. Molds adjustable 
from 5- to 14-pt. body, 4 to 30 ems in length. Magazines 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


261 


removable from the front. Operating magazine changes 
made with a lever at right of magazines. 

Model L Linotype—A reconstructed model 1 using 
model 5 magazine. Change of magazines made in the 
same manner as model 5. Molds adjustable from 5- to 
14-pt. body, 4 to 30 ems in length. 

Model 14 Linotype—Exhibited in 1914. It is a model 
8 with the addition of an auxiliary magazine of 28 chan¬ 
nels, small vertical keyboard at right of and on a plane 
with face plate, and extended distributor screws. Casting 
equipment of this machine same as model 8. The auxil¬ 
iary keyboard buttons are connected directly with the 
keyrods without cam or roller action by means of L- 
shaped pawls or elbows. Display matrices will run in 
the auxiliary, the largest of which have a double set of 
lugs, occupying two channels. The assembler belt is 
continuous and matrices pass from the auxiliary and travel 
horizontally until they reach a plate over the regular as¬ 
sembler belt idle pulley. The channel entrance for the 
auxiliary is separate from but works with the main chan¬ 
nel entrance. Main magazines interchangeable with top 
magazines of models 4 and 7, and magazines of 5, 6, 8, 
11, 18 and 19. The small auxiliary magazines holding 
nine characters per channel, are changed in the same 
manner as model 5 magazines. 

Model 14-S. K. Linotype—Issued 1923. Scope and 
flexibility of model 14 machine broadened. The lower 
magazine removable in the same manner as the two upper 
magazines. Magazine frame fitted so that pulling a lever 
at the left of the stack spreads the lower ends of maga¬ 
zines apart, clam-shell fashion, to make them accessible; 
matrix locking rod is depressed, escapement verge block 
let down, when the magazine can be slid forward on two 
supports and lifted off the machine. The auxiliary maga¬ 
zine is widened and has 34 channels which will accom¬ 
modate all 24-pt. cap faces and most of the 30-pt. faces, 
up to and including condensed 60-pt. The vertical auxil¬ 
iary keyboard is removed from the machine and all 
operating done from the regular keyboard. This is ac¬ 
complished with a flat control rod mounted at the right 
of the line delivery carriage trailer. Pushing in on the 
rod retracts 34 keyrods from under the main magazine 
escapement operating levers. Lugs fastened to and at 



262 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


the rear of the keyrods engage levers extending to the 
auxiliary keyrods, the levers being mounted in a bail box. 
When the 34 keys are disconnected on the cap side from 
the main magazine, the other 56 keys are in operative 
connection with the main magazines. Pulling the flat 
control rod forward connects the keyrods with the main 
magazines again. Casting equipment is the same as the 
other standard machines. 

Model 15 Linotype—Manufactured to supercede the 
model 10 and is identical with it except the magazine is 
widened to accept matrices of all sizes. Each channel 
will hold a maximum of 14 matrices and can be equipped 
for head-letter work. Magazines are not interchangeable 
with any other model. 

Model 16 Linotype—Issued in 1916. Resembles a 
model 9 machine, mixer type. Has two fixed magazines, 
considerably wider than any of the standard magazines. 
Changing from one magazine to another is automatically 
accomplished by depressing a key at the right of the 
keyboard which sets in operation a large cam of 
the regular keyboard design turning on a short rubber 
roll. Matrices are distributed as in the model 9, pass¬ 
ing through a primary box, then into secondary distrib¬ 
utors. Range and casting features about the same as 
models 9 and 14. Magazines interchangeable only with 
each other and main magazines on model 17. 

Model 17 Linotype—Placed on the market in 1916. 
The same as model 16 except it carries an auxiliary maga¬ 
zine of 28 channels, small vertical keyboard and extended 
distributor screws. Like the model 14 the auxiliary key¬ 
board is double, that is, a mask of 28 figure keys is 
thrown up over the letter keys when display figure com¬ 
position is being done. The auxiliary magazines are in¬ 
terchangeable with auxiliaries on models 14 and 19. 
Main magazines interchangeable with each other and 
those of model 16. 

Model 18 Linotype—Produced in 1916. Two-maga¬ 
zine model 5, having single distributor; magazine changes 
are made by moving a lever at the right of the magazines, 
similar to that of the model K. Lower magazine is placed 
in position for removal by throwing a lever at the left 
of the magazines which separates the two magazines at 
the lower end. Magazines interchangeable with upper 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


263 


magazines of 4, 7 and 11 and the magazines of 5, 6, 8, 
14 and 19. Casting equipment the same as standard 
models. 

Model 19 Linotype—Brought out in 1916. Two- 
magazine model 5, like the model 18, with the addition of a 
28-channel auxiliary. Main magazines interchangeable 
with upper magazines on 4. 7 and 11, and those of 5, 6, 8, 14 
and 18. Auxiliary changed the same as model 14 aux¬ 
iliary and interchangeable with those on 14, 16 and 17. 
Casting equipment identical with model 18. 

Model 20 Linotype—Issued in 1917. The model 20 
is a single split magazine display machine, similar in mech¬ 
anism to model 5, having 72-button keyboard and maga¬ 
zine. The first machines of this model accepted matrices 
up to a fat 30-pt. setwidth. The magazines now have 
the same range as models 21 and 22. Carries a four- 
mold disk and is usually equipped with Mohr Lino-Saw. 
Early model 20 machines are not interchangeable with 
magazines of any other model. A revolving magazine 
rack is furnished to be placed in a convenient position 
near the keyboard. Attached to the top channel plate 
of each magazine is a small sheet iron storage galley to 
accommodate miscellaneous pi characters. 

Model 21 Linotype—Marketed in 1920. The first 
machines of this model comprehended the addition of a 
double channel entrance to accommodate matrices up to 
full 36-pt. When the wide matrices are wanted a lever 
at the right of the keyboard is shifted which locks 17 of 
the keys and leaves 55 in operative position—the 55 keys 
being used for composition from fat matrices, such as 
full face 36-pt. When small faces are used for straight 
matter purposes, the other channel entrance is swung into 
operative position and the 17 keys are unlocked by means 
of the lever at the right side of the keyboard. The first 
machines of this model had only one magazine. Model 
21 as now made carries three magazines mounted on the 
model 8 elevating mechanism, has 72-channel magazines, 
carries three split magazines if desired, any one of which 
is instantly accessible for removal. Usually equipped 
with Mohr Lino-Saw, four-mold water-cooled disk, uni¬ 
versal ejector and knife block. 

Model 22 Linotype—Marketed 1920. Originally, like 
the model 21, has single split magazine, with the addition 



264 


Linotypes and Intertypes 


of a 28-channel auxiliary magazine. The distributor 
screws are extended as in other side magazine models to 
distribute matrices to the auxiliary magazine. Also has 
the double channel entrance feature found on model 21. 
Later changed to a three-magazine machine, employing 
model 8 magazine elevating mechanism. Can be equipped 
to carry three splits, any one of which is accessible for 
removal. Auxiliary magazines removed after the man¬ 
ner of model 5 magazines. In 1923 the machine was fur¬ 
ther improved with the substitution of a 34-channel auxil¬ 
iary for the 28-channel auxiliary magazine and single 
keyboard features. The vertical auxiliary keyboard has 
been entirely abandoned and the side magazine is placed 
in operative condition by pushing a flat control rod 
mounted at the right side of the line delivery carriage 
trailer just under the assembler entrance. The movement 
of the rod throws some of the keyrods on the cap sfcU 
of the keyboard away from under the escapement operat¬ 
ing levers of the main magazines. There are small lugs 
set in the keyrods which engage levers mounted in a 
bail box back of the keyrods and extending to like lugs in 
the keyrods of the auxiliary magazine. The cap and some 
of the figure characters of the main keyboard buttons are 
suitably labeled with two characters for the main and 
auxiliary magazines. The model 21-S. K. (1923) auxil¬ 
iary magazine will accommodate matrices from the small¬ 
est face to condensed 60-pt. Its range also includes all 
24-pt. caps and most of the 30-pt. caps. The auxiliary 
is made in split or full length form. The main and 
auxiliary magazines have automatic matrix locking bar 
in the lower end. This machine is usually equipped 
with Mohr Lino-Saw, four-mold water-cooled disk, uni¬ 
versal ejector and knife block. Main magazines are in¬ 
terchangeable with those of model 21. 

Model 24 Linotype—Marketed in 1920. A model 9 
with wide range 65-channel auxiliary magazine or dis¬ 
play unit. This model carries an auxiliary keyboard at 
the right of and on a plane with the regular keyboard, 
except it is set up at an angle to bring nearer to the 
operator. Auxiliary magazines will accept full font caps 
and lower case up to a wide 36-pt. face. The auxiliary 
magazines are fastened together in pairs, and there are 
two pairs in the machine. The shift from one pair to 
the other is made by depressing one of two keys marked 




Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


265 


“U” and “L.” A change of face can be made in the 
display unit without interrupting the operator by swing¬ 
ing open the face plate and lifting off either upper or 
lower pair of magazines. The auxiliary assembler belt, 
on which there are four levels, is driven independently 
by a motor mounted at the right of the auxiliary key¬ 
board. The auxiliary magazines are not interchangeable 
with any other model. The main magazines are similar 
to and interchangeable only with model 9. This machine 
carries water-cooled four-mold disk, universal ejector 
and knife block and Mohr Lino-Saw. Has extended two- 
pitch distributor screws to cover auxiliaries; matrices 
separated to the various distributors in the same manner 
as model 9. 


INTERTYPES 

Model A Intertype—Marketed 1913. The first model 
line-casting machine manufactured by the then newly- 
organized International Typesetting Machine Company. 
Single distributor machine, one magazine, single ejector 
and two-mold disk. Distributor bar, channel entrance 
and magazine variably spaced according to thickness of 
matrix dropping in channel. This variable spacing is 
an outstanding feature of the intertype and the claim is 
advanced that it does not require the same width space 
for a lower case “i” matrix to drop through the chan¬ 
nel entrance and into the magazine as the space required 
by a capital “W” matrix. Clogging in the channel en¬ 
trance avoided, according to the manufacturers, and bet¬ 
ter distribution is effected with variable spacing. Maga¬ 
zines of this model are interchangeable with magazines 
of models B, C and the main magazines of models B- 
s. m. and C-s. m. Magazines may be removed from the 
machine and replaced by opening the channel entrance 
and tilting the magazine frame backwards through the 
distributor bracket when the magazine may be lifted off. 

In 1916 the company was reorganized into the present 
Intertype Corporation, and announced the inauguration 
of a plan to standardize models A, B and C so that they 
differed with each other only in the magazine mechan¬ 
isms, and these are interchangeable on the machine proper. 
If it is desired to convert a model A or B into a model 
C the cradle and necessary magazines are ordered, when 




266 


Linotypes and Inter types 


the old magazine frame can be removed and the new one 
substituted. 

Model A intertype will accept matrices and cast slugs 
in the same range as models B and C, from 5-pt. up to 
some of the large faces. 

Model A-s. m. Intertype— A model A intertype with 
the addition of a 34-channel side magazine unit, extended 
distributor screws, capable of receiving matrices from 5- 
to 42-pt. head-letter. Has separate auxiliary keyboard 
on the same level as the regular keyboard, and turned at 
an angle to bring it nearer the operator. When not in 
use the auxiliary unit can be swung out and away from 
the side of the machine. 

Model B Intertype—Introduced in May, 1914, and 
standardized in 1916. Two-magazine machine using 
standard intertype magazines. Operating changes from 
one magazine to another are made by throwing back the 
channel entrance with a lever mounted at the right and 
shifting by means of a lever at the right of the magazine 
frame. The lever when moved lifts the magazines in a 
semi-circular path, enough to clear the tops of the key- 
rods. There are four points of connection by means of 
parallel levers which provide a rigid changing device. 
If it is desired to remove either magazine the top one is 
placed in operating position when the frame may be 
rocked backwards and either magazine may be lifted off 
and another put on from the rear of the machine. 
Equipped with two molds on four-mold disk, universal 
ejector and knife block. 

Model B machines are made on the intertype standard¬ 
ization plan and can be readily converted to model C by 
the substitution of the frame, addition of another maga¬ 
zine, set of matrices and mold. 

Model B.-s. m. Intertype— A model B intertype with 
the addition of either a No. 1 unit (single magazine), or 
No. 2 unit (three auxiliary magazines mounted in tri¬ 
angular form). The side magazine units are a part of 
the standardization plan and are applicable to any model. 

Model C Intertype—Issued May, 1916. There is no 
noticeable difference between the model C and models A 
and B except in the magazine changing mechanism, the 
mold disk and number of magazines. The model C is a 
single distributor, three-magazine machine. Magazines 



Their Maintenance and Mechanism 


267 


interchangeable with each other and with A and B 
magazines. As mentioned in connection with the other 
two models, A and B, the model C is one of the stand¬ 
ardized machines. It has the same operative conditions, 
same height, similar drop of matrices from magazine to 
assembler, and the usual escapement verges which are 
mounted in and form a part of the magazine. Operative 
changes are made by throwing back with a suitable lever 
the channel entrance, and revolving a crank at the right 
of the magazine cradle, when the channel entrance is 
closed again to complete the change. In moving from one 
position to another the cradle moves in curves and the 
change gear, working on a rack, revolves once—the whole 
movement resembling a cycloidal action. The magazines 
are lifted clear of the keyrods with a rolling motion 
and returned to a common level when in operative con¬ 
nection. Magazine removal may be accomplished by hav¬ 
ing the top magazine in operative position, the channel 
entrance disengaged from the magazines, when the cradle 
containing the three magazines may be tilted backwards. 
When in this position any magazine may be lifted off its 
frame and replaced. Model C intertype has four-mold 
disk, universal knife block and universal ejector. 

Model C-s. m. Intertype—A model C intertype with 
the addition of either a No. 1 unit (single magazine) or 
No. 2 unit (three auxiliary magazines mounted in triangu¬ 
lar form). The Nos. 1 and 2 units are applicable to any of 
the standardized models. The addition of a side maga¬ 
zine unit comprehends extended distributor screws and 
the necessary keyboard mechanism at the right of the 
regular keyboard. Commencing with October, 1923, all 
side magazine keyboards are equipped with power-driven 
keyboards. Regular keyboard cams are used the same 
as the main keyboard 

Model D Intertype—A 72-channel, three-magazine 
machine, without the side magazine feature. Some of the 
less used matrix characters are eliminated in order to 
secure the necessary room in the magazines to accommo¬ 
date display faces, in the larger sizes. Straight-matter 
composition, however, can and is being done on machines 
of this model. The top magazine is split for quick change 
of face on display work, and the lower two magazines 
are usually full length. Equipped with 30-em, 4-mold 



268 Linotypes and Intertypes 

disk and universal ejector. Can be equipped with 42-em 
casting apparatus. Magazine interchangeable with main 
magazines on model D-s. m. Will accommodate matrices 
from 5-pt. to a condensed 60-pt. 

Model D-s. m. Intertype—Introduced in December, 
1922. A 72-channel model C with the addition of a No. 
2 side magazine unit containing three auxiliary maga¬ 
zines positioned in triangular shape on a spider, which 
are changed by lifting the three magazines by means of a 
handle at the lower end, the frame of which is pivoted at 
the distributor beam and counterbalanced with a heavy 
spring. The handle is turned until the desired magazine 
is reached when the frame is lowered until it rests above 
the assembler entrance. Escapements used in the auxil¬ 
iary are the same as those of the main magazines. The 
top main magazine on this model is split (cut in half, 
the top section stationary on the machine) and the lower 
half is fitted with convenient handles at either side for 
lifting purposes. A convenient rack is furnished to hold 
extra splits and can be set near the keyboard. This ma¬ 
chine can be equipped to cast 30-em or 42-em slugs from 
any one of the four molds. The 42-em attachment in¬ 
cludes the installation of two pot pump plungers instead 
of the one usually furnished. It is within the range of 
this machine to assemble, cast and distribute all matrix 
sizes from 5-pt. up to and including 60-pt. caps. 

Model X Intertype—A two-magazine line-casting 
machine, rebuilt from models 1, 2, 3 or 5 linotypes. Has 
two standard intertype magazines, operating changes are 
made with a lever at the right side of the magazines 
after throwing back the channel entrance. Upper maga¬ 
zine readily removable from front of machine. Equipped 
with two-mold disk and single ejector blade. Has many 
of the intertype features and devices. 

Model Z Intertype—A single magazine line-casting 
machine rebuilt from models 1, 2, 3 or 5 linotypes. Has 
one standard intertype magazine. Magazine readily re¬ 
movable from front. Equipped with two-mold disk and 
single ejector slide. Many intertype features and devices 
applied. 




Alphabetical Index 


Action of vise automatic. 81 

Ad figure layout.’. ’ 241 

Adjustments . .!!!!! 220 

Assembling elevator.. .. . !. !. 223 

Assembler chute finger. 223 

Assembler slide brake. 236 

Automatic pawls. 221 

Base trimming knife. 236 

Channel entrance. 238 

Clutch spring . 220 

Connecting link. 222 

Counterbalance spring hook. 223 

Distributor beam and bar. 238 

Distributor box lift. 228 

Distributor clutch plate. 229 

Driving or friction clutch. 220 

Dynamic thermometer, Linotype. 124 

Ejector blade. 230 

Ejector lever. Intertype. 240 

First elevator. 222 

First stroke, transfer slide. 224 

Gas governors. 232 

Keyboard upper guide. 230 

Line delivery.225, 226 

Lower stopping lever. 221 

Matrix belt. 232 

Mold disk brake. 228 

Mold slide. 227 

Mold slide support screw. 227 

Mold turning cam. 226 

Pump stop. 230 

Pot lever eyebolt. 235 

Second elevator . 231 

Side trimming knives. 236 

Spaceband box center bar. 238 

Spaceband box . 224 

Spaceband box throatpiece . 225 

Spaceband lever . 224 

Square pinion. 232 

Starting lever. 222 

Stay bolt. 236 

Transfer lever. 224 

Transfer slide. 224 

Thermostat, General Electric. 120 

Upper stopping lever. 221 

Vertical lever . 221 

Vise automatic stop. 227 

Vise jaws. 226 

Adjustments, Intertype . 176 

Adjusting motor pinion. 211 

Adjusting pot legs, Linotype. 103 

Alignment of matrices. 70 

Aligning piece, delivery channel, Linotype. 59 

Analysis Intertype escapement verge. 14 

Analysis models 9 and 24 keyboard and escape¬ 
ment mechanism . 6 

Operating changes . . 6 


[ 269 ] 






























































270 


Alphabetical Index 


Cause of non-response. 

Spaceband delivery . 

Assemblers and assembling elevators. 

Assembler chute finger. 

Assembler removal. Linotype. 

Assembler slide, Intertype. 

Assembler slide brake. Intertype. 

Assembler slide brake adjustment. 

Assembling elevator adjustment. 

Assembling elevator gauge. 

Assembling elevator fibre buffer. 

Assembling elevator latch and stop bar. 

Assembling elevator latch release, Intertype. 

Assembler, positive, Intertype. 

Chute finger . 

Buffer finger . 

Friction spring . 

Maintenance . 

Removal . 

Star wheel renewal. 

Assembling elevator gate, cause of looseness 

Auxiliary alignment of matrices. 

Automatic pawl adjustment. 

Avoid lapping of molds. 


9 

9 

. . 51 

. . 52 

. . 53 

. . 56 

. . 56 

. . 236 
. 223 
64, 58 
. . 58 

. . 58 

. . 59 

. . 53 

. . 55 

. . 56 

. . 55 

. . 55 

. . 55 

. . 55 

. . 58 

. . 71 

. . 221 
. . 87 


Back jaw, first elevator. 

Back knife adjustment. 

Back knife angles, Intertype. 

Back knife angles, Linotype. 

Back knife setting. 

Back mold wiper. Intertype. 

Back mold wiper, Linotype. 

Back mold wiper, cementing. 

Beam and bar adjustment. 

“Bellying” vise automatic stop rod 
Bending vise automatic stop rod.. 

Bent first elevator back jaw. 

Bent spacebands . 

Benzol . 

Bleeding feet on slugs. 

Blue ointment . 

Brazing first elevator back jaws.. 
Bubbling of metal around plunger. 


64 
236 
163 
158 
146 

89 

89 

89 

238 

83 

82 

65 
49 
28 

113 

88 

64 

94 


Cam removal, Intertype. 

Cam removal, Linotype. 

Cam rolls, refacing. 

Cam stop strip repair. 

“Can opener” device, Linotype wedge in mouth¬ 
piece . 

Carbon tetrachloride . 

Care of the keyboard. 

Care of keyboard. 

Cause of distortion of descenders. 

Causes of hair lines. 

Cause of matrices striking delivery channel. 

Causes of letters next to spacebands chafing. 

Causes of stuck slugs. 

Chafing of letters adjacent to spacebands. 

Channel entrance adjustment. 

Chattering of second elevator. 

Cleaner for crucible throat, Linotype. 


218 

216 

243 

244 

99 

28 

23 

16 

74 

47 

59 

72 

133 

72 

238 

180 

100 






























































Alphabetical Index 


271 


Cleaning - gas burners. 

Cleaning holes in pot well. 

Cleaning keyboard cams. 

Cleaning keyboard . 

Cleaning magazines and care of matrices 

Cleaning gas burners. Intertype. 

Cleaning gas burners. Linotype..... 

Closing mouthpiece vents. 

Closing pin, first elevator, Intertype. 

Combinations, destruction of matrix.... 
Composing machines, past and present: 

Intertypes . 

Linotypes . 

Counterbalance spring hook adjustment. 

Cracked crucible . 

Cross vents . 

Crucible Intertype when to apply new... 
Crucible, Linotype, when to apply new.. 

Clutch, driving adjustment. 

Clutch, driving: 

Operation . 

Adjustments . 

Gauge . 

Spring tension . 

Causes for slippage. 

Bushings worn out. 

Motor pinion . 

Clutch spring adjustment. 


. 104 

. 74 

. 19 

. 19 

. 26 

.94, 104 

. 104 

. 113 

. 68 

32, 168, 169 

. 265 

. 255 

. 223 

. 110 

. 109 

. 95 

. 110 

. 220 

. 208 

. 209 

.64, 209 

. 210 

. 210 

. 211 

. 211 

. 220 


Daily work schedule. 

Detent and spring, Intertype. 

Delivery channel aligning piece. 

Delivery channel slurring lower lugs. 
Descenders catching first elevator jaw 
Descender letters distorted at bottom 

Double letters. 

Dirty plunger . 

“Dishes” on liners. 

Disk dog or plunger adjustment. 

Distributor clutch plate adjustment. ., 

Distributor beam, to remove.. 

Distributor beam and bar adjustment 

Distributors . 

Adjustments . 

Applying new cam. 

Bar point . 

Channel entrance adjustment.... 

Fitting dowels in rails. 

Lift wear . 

Maintenance . 

Oiling distributor . 

Operation . 

To take apart . 

To remove . 

Vertical faces of rails. 

Worn box rails. 

Distributor boxes, primary. 

Adjustment . 

Alternator . 

Cleaning shifter buffer. 

Operation . 


241 

69 

59 

59 

65 

74 

24 

112 

84 

227 

229 

191 

238 

184 

184 
189 

185 
191 

187 

186 
185 
189 

184 

188 
188 

185 

186 

198 

199 

198 

199 
198 





























































272 


Alphabetical Index 


Renewing rails . 

Setting alternator . 

Upper front rail spring. 

Distributor boxes, secondary. 

Adjustments . 

Cleanliness . 

Lubrication . 

Maintenance . 

Polishing chutes . 

Straightening pawls . 

Repairing bent pawls. 

Distributor, two-pitch, Intertype. 

Action of parts. 

Adjustments . 

Dry bearings . 

Excessive speed . 

Feathers . 

Floating channel entrance. 

Removing clutch . 

Screw guard . 

Timing gears . 

Variable spacing . 

Distributor, two-pitch, Linotype. 

Adjusting beam . 

Clutch repair . 

Dry bearings . 

Function of automatics. 

Oiling distributor . 

Screw guard . 

Spiral automatics . 

Straightening partitions . 

Distributor screws, timing. 

Distributor shifter . 

Distributor, transfer adjustment. 

Distortion of descender letters. 

Drill sizes for taps. 

Driving clutch adjustment. 

Driving pinion adjustment. 

Driving clutch gauge. 

Dross in Intertype crucible. 

Dross in Linotype crucible. 

Dross saw . 

Dross in crucible throat. 

Duties of vise automatic. 

Duplex rail spring. Intertype.. 

Duplex rail switch, Intertype. 

Duplex rail measurement, first elevator. . . . 

Duplex rail levers, Linotype. 

Dynamic thermometer adjustment. Linotype 


. . . . 199 
. . . . 199 
. . . . 199 
.... 200 
.... 202 
.... 200 
.... 201 
.... 200 
.... 201 
. . . . 204 
. . . . 203 
. ... 205 
.... 205 
.... 207 
. ... 207 
. ... 207 
. . . . 206 
. ... 205 
.... 207 
, . . . 206 
... 207 
. ... 206 
. . . . 194 
, ... 196 
. ... 197 
. ... 196 
. . . . 194 
. . . . 196 
.... 197 
. . .. 194 
. .. . 196 
. . . . 192 
. ... 182 
. ... 179 
. . . . 74 

. .. . 249 
. . . . 220 
. . . . 211 
.64, 209 
. ... 96 

100, 111 
. . . . 96 

. . . . HI 
. ... 81 
... 70 

. . . . 59 

.... 66 
.... 66 
. . . . 124 


Effect of trimming knives on slugs cast from 


warped molds . 84 

Effect of type metal on steel molds. 87 

Electric metal pots. 114 

Elliptical shape Intertype well. 95 

Ejector blade adjustment. 230 

Ejector buffer, Intertype. 132 

Ejector lever adjustment, Intertype. 240 

Ejector, Linotype, old style. 131 

Ejector pawl replacing. 133 

Ejector slide and blade. 131 































































Alphabetical Index 


273 


Escapement verge, Intertype, analysis. 14 

Eyebolt, pot lever, adjustment. 235 


Feather edges on slugs. 

Felt for wipers. 

Fibre buffer, assembling elevator. 

Filing glass . 

Finger, assembler chute. 

Filling piece or “flopper” . 

First elevator . 

First elevator adjustment. 

First elevator back jaw gauge. 

First elevator duplex rail measurement... 
First elevator duplex rail spring Intertype 
First elevator jaw closing pin, Intertype... 

First elevator jaw. Intertype. 

First elevator jaw. Linotype. 

First elevator, matrices twisting. 

First elevator measurements. 

First elevator slide gibs. 

First stroke, transfer slide adjustment... 

Filling piece alignment... 

Fitting mouthpiece to warped crucible.... 

Flat roll and effect, line delivery. 

Flickering mouthpiece flame. 

Floating knife block.. 

“Flopper” or filling piece. 

“Flopper” squirts . 

Flushing crucible . 

Formula cleaning brass. 

Fraction layout . 

Friction driving clutch. 

Front mold wiper. 

Frozen pot lever shaft. 

Functions of main cams... 

Function of vise automatic. 

Function first elevator filling piece. 


. . . 84 

. . .. 88 
. . . . 58 

. . . . 243 
.... 52 

. . . . 72 

. . . . 64 

145, 222 
.... 65 

. . . . 66 
. . . . 70 

. . . . 68 
. . . . 68 
. . . . 66 
. . . . 67 

. . . . 64 

.... 65 

.... 224 
. ... 72 

. . . . 101 
.... 62 
. . . . 105 
. . . . 158 
. . . . 72 

. ... 72 

. ... 96 

. . .. 244 
.... 248 
.. . . 208 
.... 85 

. . . . 93 

. . . . 215 
.... 80 
. . . . 72 


Galley. Linotype inclined. 

Gasoline, when not to use. 

Gas metal pots. 

Gas burners .. 

Gas burners, cleaning. 

Gas governor. Intertype. 

Gas governor adjustments. 

Gauges, figure 17: 

(a) Transfer channel . 

(b) First elevator jaw. 

(c) Assembling elevator . 

(d) Driving clutch . 

General Electric metal pot. 

Governors, gas adjustment. 

Grinding in Linotype wedge mouthpiece 
Grinding in plungers. 


. .. 134 
. . . 28 
.. . 90 

. . . 104 
. . . 104 
. . . 94 

.. . 232 

64, 171 
.64, 65 
.64, 58 
64, 209 
. . . 114 
. .. 232 
. . . 101 
.. . 110 


Hair lines, causes of. y 

Hair lines, minimizing. 245 

How are matrices aligned?. 70 


Incorrectly trimmed slugs, causes of 
Inclined gaJley, Linotype. 


149 

134 



























































274 


Alphabetical Index 


Insufficient ventage .... 
Intertype gas governor. 
Linotvpe gas thermostat 
Intertype models. 


112 

90 

233 

265 


Jaws, vise adjustment. 

Justification lever adjustments. 

Justification lever springs too strong.. 
Justification block has too much angle 
Justification interfered with. 


226 

49 

49 

49 

48 


Keyboard and escapement mechanism, Intertype.. 11 

Escapement action .. • • H 

Escapement clearing bottom of magazine 

channel . 13 

Escapement spring .13, 14 

Escapement repairs . 14 

Fitting new escapement. 14 

Glueing rubber rolls. 1*> 

“Harp” . 1° 

Keyrod guide . 

Keyrod overthrow. l" 

Keyrod spring . 15 

Naphtha on rubber rolls. 15 

Rolls, removing and replacing. 15 

Testing for trouble. 13 

Keyboard and escapement mechanism, Linotype.. 1 

Analysis of operation. 3 

Cause of escapement verge pawl not clearing 

magazine channel . 4 

Irregular response . 4 

Overthrow spring . 3 

Rubber rolls creeping. 3 

Testing non-response matrix. 4 

Keyboard cams, cleaning. 19 

Keyboard, care of. 23 

Keyboard, cleaning . 19 

Keyboard, removing . 18 

Keyrod upper guide adjustment. 230 

Keyboard troubles . 23 

Kinks .. . 243 

Knife angles, Intertype. 162 

Knife angles, Linotype. 157 

Knife block, “bulldog”. 153 

Knife block. Intertype. 158 

Knife block. Linotype old style. 151 

Knife wipers . 164 

Knife wipers, Linotype. 164 

Knife wipers, Intertype . 165 

Knives cutting off tops of capitals. 76 

Knives, side adjustment. 236 


Lampblack test . 108 

Latch and stop bar, assembling elevator. 58 

Latch release, assembling elevator. 59 

Lapping of molds to be avoided. 87 

Layout, ad figure. 248 

Lee gas governor adjustment. 232 

Length of sprues. 109 

Letters adjacent to spacebands chafed. 72 

Line-casting machines, past and present. 255 

























































Alphabetical Index 


275 


Line delivery adjustment.225, 226 

Line delivery carriage. 61 

Line delivery lubrication. 62 

Liners having “dishes”. 84 

Liner repairs . 246 

Line stop clamp, first elevator. 68 

Linotype electric pot. 124 

Linotype models . 255 

Linotype old style ejector. 131 

Long finger closing in. 62 

Lower matrix lugs slurred by delivery channel.. 59 

Lower stopping lever adjustment. 221 

Lubrication of line delivery. 62 

Main cam functions. 215 

Main cam removal, Intertype. 218 

Main can removal, Linotype. 216 

Main movements of machine. 212 

Magazine, cleaning . 27 

Matrix belt adjustment. 232 

Matrix tooth list . 249 

Matrices twisting, first elevator. 67 

Matrices striking delivery channel. 59 

Matrices: 

Anvil . 29 

Care of . 26 

Causes of damage. 31 

Cleaning . 27 

Don’t drop .. 23 

Font notches . 248 

How aligned . 71 

Repairing . 29 

Matrix combinations, destruction of.32, 168, 169 

Measurements, first elevator. 64 

Metal balling on plunger rod. 113 

Metal in mold disk dog or plunger. 80 

Metal pots, electric. 114 

Metal pots, gas. 90 

Metal pots, General Electric: 

Adjustment of relay. 123 

Adjustment of thermostat . 120 

Broaching of mouthpiece jets. 122 

Calibrating cam adjustment. 122 

Cleaning contacts . 122 

Closing coil springs . 123 

Insulation drops away at terminals. 123 

Maintenance of thermostat . 117 

Maximum and minimum temperature. 121 

Metal too cold . 123 

Metal too hot . 121 

Operation . 115 

Pivot bearing adjustment. 119 

Relay switch . 122 

Rheostat . 115 

Removing thermostat . 117 

Soldering joints . 123 

Testing coils . 123 

Thermostat . 115 

Metal pot, Merganthaler Electric: 

Adjustment for temperature. 124 

“Bleeding feet” . 125 



























































276 


Alphabetical Index 


Casting- large slugs. 

Clapper switch contacts . 

Cleaning contacts . 

Fuses blowing . 

Magneto . 

Maintenance . 

Maximum and minimum temperature, 

Mercury tube adjustment . 

Metal feed holes . 

Necessity for thermometer. 

Operation . 

Pot leg adjustments. 

Removing elements . 

Working temperature . 

Metal pot, gas, Intertype: 

Pressing mouthpiece with oilstone.., 

Maintenance . 

Pot leg adjustment. 

Red led impression . 

Pot lever adjustment . 

Metal pot. gas, Linotype: 

Pot leg adjustment . 

Pot lever adjustment . 

Pot lever roll . 

Pump lever roll . 

Tube burners. 

Wiggling pot lever shaft. 

Micrometer, how read . 

Models of Intertypes . 

Models of Linotypes . 

Mold caps warped . 

Mold disk brake adjustment. 

Mold cam shoe wiper.. 

Mold disk and advance of vise automatic 

Mold liner repair. 

Molds, polishing.••••• 

Mold polish (to polish molds by hand). .. 

Mold slide support adjustment. 

Mold slide adjustment . 

Mold turning cam adjustment. 

Molds warped. 

Molds and wipers. 

Motor pinion renewal . 

Mouthpiece flames flicker. 

Mouthpiece, grinding in Linotype wedge 

Mouthpiece, stoning . 

Mouthpiece, transfer impression . 

Mouthpiece. Intertype, removal . 

Mouthpiece, Linotype screw . 

Movements of machine . 


.126-127 
... . 127 
125, 127 
. . . . 128 
. . . . 129 
.... 127 
. ... 125 
.... 127 
.... 127 
. . . . 124 
... 124 
.... 130 
. . . . 129 
. ... 124 

.... 92 

.... 98 

... 90 

.... 92 

.... 98 


96 

98 

98 

98 

98 

98 

252 

265 

255 

146 

228 

85 

82 

246 

84 

84 

227 

227 

226 

84 

84 

211 

105 


102 

95 

104 

212 


New crucible, Intertype, when to apply. 95 

Notches for type size. 248 

Normal alignment of matrices . 70 


Oilless bearings. Intertype, assembler. 55 

Oilless pot pump lever roll, Intertype. 94 

Overhauling and cleaning keyboard. 19 

Oversize plungers . 94 

Oxidation on spaceband sleeves. 46 



























































Alphabetical Index 


277 


Pawls, Linotype spaceband box. 

Pinion, motor adjustment. 

Plates, assembling elevator . 

Positive assembler. Intertype . 

Piston packing, line delivery. 

Plungers, grinding in . 

Plunger, metal boils on downstroke. 

Plungers, oversize . 

Plunger worn out . 

Polishing Intertype duplex rail. 

Polishing molds . 

Poor faces on slugs. 

Pot gas burner top plate, Intertype. 

Pot lever adjustment. Linotype. 

Pot lever eyebolt adjustment. 

Pot lever eyebolt purpose. 

Pot lever eyebolt adjustment . 

Pot lever adjustment, Intertype. 

Porous slugs on the Intertype. 

Porous slugs . 

Pot legs, adjusting, Linotype. 

Pot legs, adjusting, Intertype . 

Pot lever eyebolt sleeve . 

Pot pump lever. Intertype, removal. 

Primary distributor boxes and alternators 
Pump stop lever adjustment, Linotype.... 
Pump stop lever adjustment, Intertype. .. . 
Putz pommade . 


... 37 

.. 211 
. . . 58 

.. . 53 

.. . 61 
. . . 110 
. . . 94 

94, 110 
. .. 110 
.. . 70 

. . . 84 

. . . 112 
. . . 94 

.. . 98 

. . . 235 
.. . 107 
... 106 
. . . 92 

. . . 95 

. . . 109 
. . 103 
. . . 90 

. . . 93 

. . . 94 

.. . 198 
. .. 230 
. . . 231 
. . . 84 


Reading micrometer . 

Red lead test. 

Removing assembler, Linotype . 

Removing distributor beam . 

Removing Intertype mouthpiece . 

Removal of Linotype wedge mouthpiece. 

Removing Intertype pot pump lever. 

Removing keyboard . 

Renewing motor pinion. 

Renewal of star wheel . 

Repairing warped molds . 

Return stroke of line delivery. 

Rubber rolls, cause of transpositions. 

Rubber rolls, Linotype, to remove and replace 
Rubber rolls, washing. 


252 

108 

53 

191 

95 

99 

94 

18 

211 

51 

84 

63 

57 

5 

20 


Schedule, daily work . 

Screw mouthpiece, Linotype. 

Second elevator adjustments .... 

Second elevator chattering .. 

Secondary distributor boxes .... 

Setting back knife . 

Shield for throat burners . 

Shifter, distributor . 

Side trimming knife adjustments 

Sleeve for pot lever eyebolt. 

Slide gibs, first elevator. 

Slide guide adjustment . 

Slugs, feathered edges. 

Slugs, porous. 

Slug pulls hard from border slide 
Solution cleaning keyboard cams 


... 241 
. . . 104 
... 231 
... 180 
... 200 
... 146 
. . . 105 
... 182 
... 236 
93, 108 
. . . 65 

... 223 
. . 84 

. .. 109 
... 243 
... 244 






























































278 


Alphabetical Index 


Spaceband box center bar adjustment. 

Spaceband box, Intertype: 

Analysis of operation. 

Banking pin worn out . 

Causes for spaceband troubles. 

Center bar adjustment. 

Detaining plate adjustment. 

Floor of spaceband box. 

How to remove box. 

Spring, release pawl tension. 

Spaceband box, Linotype . 

Spaceband box, Linotype: 

“Bellying” pawls . 

Causes for spaceband troubles. 

Centre bar adjustment. 

Chute . 

Fitting pawls. 

Crummy pawls. 

Heat-treating pawls . 

How to remove box . 

Pawl adjustment. 

Pawl springs . 

Rounded spaceband sleeve lugs. 

Throatpiece adjustment. 

Vertical faces . 

Spacebands, causes of troubles. 

Care of . 

Causes of bending. ••••• 

Causes for remaining in transfer channel.... 

Repair of. 

Measurements after repair. 

Spaceband troubles, Linotype . 

Spaceband finger repair. 

Spaceband lever adjustment . 

Spaceband troubles, Intertype . 

Speed of line delivery carriage . 

Split lever, line delivery . 

Springs, strengthening .. 

Spring and detent, first elevator, Intertype. 

Springs, weakening . 

Sprues and ventage . 

Squirts, “flopper”.. 

Souare pinion adjustment .. 

Steel rrolds affected by type metals. 

Star wheel, spring tension . 

Star wheel, renewal .•. 

Straightening first elevator back jaws. 

Starting lever adjustment .. ■ 

Stoning mouthpiece . 

Stay holt adjustment . 

Stop, vise automatic adjustment.. 

Stuck slugs, causes . 

Stuck bluers minimized by back mold wiper. 

Switch, duplex rail, Intertype . 

Supplies tables and tools. 


238 

41 

45 

45 

45 

43 

44 

45 
45 

34 

37 
40 

38 

39 

35 

34 
37 

35 

40 

41 
39 

39 
37 

45 

46 

48 

49 
48 
48 

40 

245 
224 

45 

61 

63 

246 
69 

246 
109 

72 

232 

87 
51 
51 

64 
222 
103 
236 
227 
133 

88 
59 

247 


Table of slug sizes . 

Taps and drill sizes . 

Temperature of metal . 

Tension of star wheel. 

Thermostat adjustment, Linotype 


150 

249 

113 

51 

233 




























































Alphabetical Index 


279 


Thermostat adjustment. Intertype, gas. 91, 234 

Throat cleaner, Linotype . 100 

Throat burner shield . 10o 

Timing distributor screws . 192 

Tops of capitals cut off by knives. 76 

Top plate, Intertype gas burner . 94 

Tools . 247 

Tooth list, matrix . 249 

Tests, red lead and lampblack . 108 

Thermostat, General Electric. 120 

Transfers . 167 

Adjustment . 169 

Adjustment, Intertype . 176 

Adjustment, Linotype . 173 

Bar plate, Linotype . 176 

Channel, intermediate . 171- 

Gauge . 171 

Optical illusion . 

Second elevator lever. 170 

Slide guide, Intertype . 171 

Slide guide, Linotype . 172 

Transfer adjustments at distributor . 1*9 

“White paper” test.. 169 

Transfer adjustments at distributor. i<9 

Transpositions, causes of . 67 

Transfer channel, spacebands remain in. 

Transfer lever adjustment . 224 

Transfer slide adjustment . 224 

Transfer slide, first stroke adjustment. 224 

Trimming knives and knife blocks. 138 

Adjustments . 

“Bottled” slugs ... 

Causes for incorrectly trimmed slugs . 

Ejection lockup . 

Knife angles . 

Knife lapping stones . 

Linotype mold keeper plates. 

Mold disk cleaning. 

Mold liners . f 

To lap a knife... 

Troubles, causes for spaceband. 40 

Trimming knives cutting tops of capitals. 76 

Troubles, keyboard . . 23 

Two-pitch distributor. Intertype. 205 

Two-pitch distributor, Linotype. 194 

Type sizes . 148 


Universal ejector, Intertype . .. 

Universal ejector, Linotype - 

Upper stopping lever adjustment 


136 

134 

221 


Ventage on slugs . 

Vertical lever adjustment. 

Vise automatic .* 

Vise automatic and advance of mold disk 

Vise automatic duties . . 

Vise automatic stop adjustment. 

Vise jaw adjustments . 

Vise jaw wedge wiper. 


109 

221 

80 


82 

81 

227 

226 

86 





























































280 


Alphabetical Index 


Warped mold caps. 

Warped molds, repairing . 

Warped mouthpiece seat. 

Washing lceybuttons . ... 

Washing rubber rolls . ( . 

Weakening springs .'. 

Wedge mouthpiece, removal, Jjinotype 

Wedge wiper. . 

Wiper, mold cam shoe. 

Wiper polish . 

WDrlc schedule . 

Worn plunger . 


146 

84 

101 

243 

20 

246 

99 

86 

85 

85 

24r 

110 



















































ft* 
















9 















































